Hot answers tagged un105
Looks like a Stabilizer Bar Link for your steering stabilizer.
Upon examination it became immediately obvious what the issue was; the front passenger sway bar link had snapped off at the top, losing its head and both top bushings. The clunk was presumably caused by the remnants of the sway bar link (still attached to the lower control arm) impacting the sway bar during turns with bumps or inclines. A replacement sway ...
Wakeeta is right: this is your stabilizer bar link (AKA sway bar link). This is apparently a common failure point. Here's a very similar picture. A quick shopping search indicates that a replacement part is on the order of $30 (sweat equity not included).
I'd check for vacuum leaks and malfunctioning idle controller valves. Cold air is more dense (contains more oxygen for the same volume) so I'd expect a vacuum leak so show up worse as you get more unmetered air introduced into the engine and the ECU tries to compensate for the air/fuel mixture being off, which leads to the idle surge.
On a Mitsubishi, it would be either a failed Idle Air Controller, or the Base Idle Set Screw has backed out and needs to be reset (and sealed into place). Look for something similar to start with.
First thing to do is to check for short circuits. With the battery fully charged and nothing switched on, pop an ammeter on the battery and measure the power draw - there will be some to power the alarm & radio preset, but that should be pretty tiny. If there is a large draw, you've got a short and the tedious job of tracking it down begins...
Looking online, the only difference I see as to what you are doing and what is suggested is to turn the key eight times within 10 seconds. It may be you are not getting all of the key turns in within the allotted time. For the entire sequence, the following steps are applicable (so others know when looking): Have all transmitters available before starting, ...
Ball Joints. The clunking you describe is symptom of them being worn out. It's a known service item on Exploders. All ball joints wear/fail eventually, it just seems the Explorer goes through them quicker than others.
Other than what has been mentioned, the other part I would check out is your CV Axles. Check the boots at both ends for cracks or any grease leaking out. If they start leaking and lose the grease, they can start making continuous noise or show up when making turns. If they have cracked, the grease can make a mess if it has been driven long on them.
In a tight turn the steering knuckle is pushing on the steering stop and any vertical motion of the body could create a thumping or squeaking noise as the knuckle rubs against the stop.
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