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6

I plowed with a Chevy 1500 and a Ford F250. You could definitely feel the weight of the plow more on the smaller 1500 compared to the F250. The 1500 would squat quite a bit when the plow was lifted. The plow (a Western brand) was professionally installed on both trucks, and the only issues we ever had were electrical with the plow controls, the same kind of ...


5

If it was never converted to use R134a instead of R12, you're not just going to be able to charge it up yourself, since something that old probably came from the factory with R12 refrigerant. You need a license to buy R12 in the United States, and it's not cheap. Since your system is compromised and needs attention anyway, you might as well do the R134a ...


4

It's likely non-repairable, unless the vehicle is 15 years + old. The new style radiators are not cost effective to repair. A leak between the tank and the core, can usually be repaired, a leaking tank can usually be replaced. Core repair is difficult if possible, they are made so thin now it's next to impossible to repair. Check with a radiator repair shop ...


4

As@ mac has stated a plow will fit and the truck will push snow. The primary considerations are how often and how long are you going to plow. The longer and more frequently you plow the more the suspension and driveline parts will be stressed. If you are just doing a few driveways you should have no problems. If you plan to plow commercially for long ...


4

It's impossible to give a definitive answer here as to what was done with your truck. However, it is often stated that when larger wheels and tires are fitted to a truck, the brakes should be upgraded. This is due to the larger rotational inertia of the larger wheels and tires, which can make the vehicle significantly harder to stop. Therefore, if the ...


3

The safe way of turning seatbelt chime/alarm off During these steps, do not touch the brake at all shut the door. turn the key on and get your instrument panel on ODO and turn key off. turn the key back on, press reset knob immediately. hold reset knob for 12_15 seconds and fasten the seat belt. xxxx miles should turn to b_on. release and press one time, ...


3

For a really quick solution, try getting hold of a spare seatbelt from a scrap vehicle (I doubt the shape changes often, so I expect any reasonably recent Toyota would do, just get one that is the same as the belts in your car). Remove the tongue (The t shaped bit) from the belt, and keep it to hand - then, when you're driving on the trails and want to ...


3

What about these lights as I discovered in this question CHROME WHITE LED LIGHT NUMBER PLATE SCREW BOLTS Or this one Looks like you just drill a hole for this one


3

There's a possibility that the compressor will have seized up from sitting so long. They really need to be run periodically. However, I've seen some that have sat a long time fire up again just fine.


3

Did you check the inner and outer tie rods for play? How are your ball joints and bushings up front? Were all of those inspected when getting the alignment?


3

I wouldn't use additives to plug a leak unless it's an emergency. That stuff migrates all through your cooling system gunking up everything it can in the process - including radiator tubes with a partial flow restriction... If you are fortunate enough to possess a brass radiator - take it to a rad shop to have the leak soldered. At the same time, get it ...


3

This thread describes a similar problem on a different model year. That said, the symptoms sound strikingly familiar (from the first post in that thread): Make absolutely sure the hole in the bracket is not worn! It should be round with a notch in the top for the new bushing to key into. If the hole is worn even slightly, it's going to have to come ...


3

If the dump box gets pushed on by a truck or an end loader or whatever, it can cause damage to the box, possibly not even allowing it to dump again. The rear door, while seeming stable to you and me, would be at the mercy of an end loader or bulldozer. Some might want to push the box to get the truck to move, such as if it got stuck or needed a little extra ...


3

Do you have any idea about potential power level of 132 kW (180 HP), 700 Nm MAN truck (TGL) 4.5 litre engine with damaged (not working) turbo? As a rule of thumb, for every atmosphere's worth of boost, you'll double the amount of power the amount the engine puts out naturally aspirated. For instance, if an engine puts out 100hp naturally aspirated, the ...


3

A quick check showed that the factory 350 with a carb was rated at 175 HP, 210 if it had TBI (throttle body injection) the 190 HP crate motor should be enough. As a plus the crate motor will have a cam with a more modern design resulting in a better running engine. While 190 HP will be enough, you have to remember that mid 80's trucks were not intended to ...


2

I ended up pulling off the bed cover by unscrewing the 8 screws on the inside of the tailgate. There was a metal plate underneath that also came off, giving me access to the inner-workings of the tailgate latch mechanism. The plastic hardware connecting one of the pull-rods to the handle lever had snapped. The hardware kit that I had purchased from Auto-Zone ...


2

This may or may not be a permanent fix, but don't overlook the value of lubricating the gears and cables in the handle and the actual side latches themselves. The stress of pulling on cables and gears may waste energy that could be used to pull the latches just that much farther. I've found that lubrication with WD-40 or Silicone spray to be a great method ...


2

By "only one end seems to be releasing when I pull it," I am assuming you mean the latch on only one side of the tailgate is releasing. That, coupled with the lightened pull, suggests to me that the other side cable has worn or broken. In the meantime, to un-stick it you'd have to find that cable and pull it. To fix the problem overall, you'll probably need ...


2

The vast majority of vibrations that come and go at various speeds are wheel and/or driveshaft balance issues. They come and go due to exciting the suspension/steering when reaching resonant frequencies. Yours may be a wheel issue that shops would rather balance as well as they can than tell you you should replace a wheel. There are more expensive ways to ...


2

The correct answer will depend on the size of the truck. As long as you have not exceeded the load capacity of the chassis you should be fine. However the longer the springs are the compressed to their maximum deflection the less likely they are to return to their unloaded shape.


2

As @mac has stated it is impossible to know for sure without some photos. Most aftermarket suppliers want everyone to see you have their product. Aftermarket/performance calipers will usually have the name prominently displayed on them. The rotors may be slotted and or drilled but the same size as the originals. If you remove a front and rear wheel you can ...


2

You may possibly have a bad tire or wheel, or a badly worn tie rod end or ball joint or suspension bushing, or a cracked suspension control arm, or a binding brake pad/shoe. Generally, alignment issues in the absence of worn or damaged parts will result in very consistent steering anomalies... with the exception of severe toe-in/toe-out issues, which may ...


2

I think at this point you have three areas to look. First, double check the entire intake tract for vacuum leaks. Anyplace you could have unmetered air (air entering after the MAF). You'll also want to pull the intake tube and ensure there aren't any cracks in it as well. Make sure all of your clamps are in good working order and are sealing things. ...


2

Feels like a governor of some sort.. has it already been chipped? If it's reliably getting to EXACTLY the same speed and maintaining it, I'd start to suspect that it was designed to be limited to that. Is it actually hitting an RPM limit, or a MPH limit? (read: how many RPMs is it doing @96MPH?) Sounds like a built-in MPH limit. I found a reference to a ...


2

The truck in that video has a cap or camper shell. The cargo area of a pickup truck is usually called the bed; trunk is the rear luggage area on a passenger car.


2

tl dr - Upgrade to a 2500 or 2500HD pick-up. There are several issues you'll notice when hauling at the maximum and over the maximum of the towing capacity of the Avalanche. First off, the 2007 & 2008 MYs came with the 4L60e transmission. Why GM ever put these in a pickup truck is beside me. These were meant to go into passenger cars. While they are ...


1

You need to make sure the relay is the correct one for that circuit. There are several relays in the fuse/relay panel and while they can be moved to another circuit, they may not have the amperage capacity to handle the load, and they will overheat and fail. For instance the headlight relay is the same configuration, and it will plug into the EFI relay spot, ...


1

As they are 'pencil coils' on your vehicle, you can transfer the supect coil on to a differant plug. If the coil now works correctly whilst the one it was swopped with starts to 'misfire' on number three plug then you know you are dealing with a fault with No.3 cylinder. Secondly try replacing No3 spark plug with one you have removed and know to be working ...


1

I don't know about Fords specifically, but as a general rule of thumb, older vehicles are usually easier to work on than newer ones - They usually have less in terms of large crash structures etc, and fewer accessories in the engine bay taking up space. Replacing parts is usually easier when those parts are mostly or wholly mechanical too, wheras newer ...


1

The solenoid is really a big switch. It has two functions, send power to the starter and control the Bendix. The Bendix is the gear assembly that engages the flywheel. If the starter spins when you bypass the solenoid the starter is working. By jumping out the solenoid terminals both of which are "hot" by the way, you have tested the starter motor. You ...



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