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36

Torque is the name of the game. High torque is needed to move heavy loads. If comparing a gasoline engine to a comparable diesel engine the diesel will always have higher torque. The higher torque comes from the need for a higher compressing ratio needed for compression ignition. To achieve the higher compression ratio a longer stroke is required. The longer ...


18

A major, but often overlooked, reason for the dominance of gasoline engines in passenger vehicles is the need for diesel engines in heavy vehicles. A given quantity of crude oil, depending on its composition, will yield a given quantity of diesel, a given quantity of gasoline, a given quantity of candle wax, and specific given quantities of other petroleum ...


15

To OP’s main question: “Why do heavy vehicles almost always use diesel engines?” Answer: Cost and dependability. Diesel engines are significantly more expensive, but have lifetimes many times greater than gasoline engines. For a commercial vehicle that is on the road all day every day, it adds up to big savings because of the better fuel efficiency and less ...


9

Given two engines of similar weight, both operated at their respective optimum efficiency (i.e. maximum mechanical work done per unit of chemical enthalpy in the burnt fuel), you will end up with similar fuel consumption for either engine type. But a Diesel engine will generally offer slightly more power out of this, by giving more torque; that's how it's ...


8

Your truck is designed to carry that load. If you consider carrying a full set of passengers. 1 in the front, 3 in the back, that weight would exceed your current load of 500 pounds. I would not be concerned at all regarding doing on what you plan on doing. In fact, make it 1,000 pounds and do it, your truck would handle that just fine although it may ...


6

I plowed with a Chevy 1500 and a Ford F250. You could definitely feel the weight of the plow more on the smaller 1500 compared to the F250. The 1500 would squat quite a bit when the plow was lifted. The plow (a Western brand) was professionally installed on both trucks, and the only issues we ever had were electrical with the plow controls, the same kind of ...


6

The issue most likely is, the trailer was empty. The brakes are designed to work well when the trailer is full. As you can imagine, if the dump was full of loose gravel there'd be quite a load in it. When the trailer is empty, the same amount of force on the brake pedal can cause the brakes to lock up easily. This is something more for the driver to worry ...


5

If it was never converted to use R134a instead of R12, you're not just going to be able to charge it up yourself, since something that old probably came from the factory with R12 refrigerant. You need a license to buy R12 in the United States, and it's not cheap. Since your system is compromised and needs attention anyway, you might as well do the R134a ...


5

When sizing springs for a particular application, manufacturers have to get the right physical size for the job, but they also need to worry about the "spring rate" to properly support a given load. The spring rate is basically how much weight it takes to compress the spring. A larger engine is going to be a bigger static load for the suspension, and a ...


5

The ISO 1728 document is not public, but I think that it does not specify threads in the palm couplings. It will be different between regions. For Europe, the palm couplings use either a M16×1.5 or M22×1.5 female thread (example, example). Compressed air couplings with a European standard industrial profile of the plugs and a M16×1.5 male thread are ...


4

It's likely non-repairable, unless the vehicle is 15 years + old. The new style radiators are not cost effective to repair. A leak between the tank and the core, can usually be repaired, a leaking tank can usually be replaced. Core repair is difficult if possible, they are made so thin now it's next to impossible to repair. Check with a radiator repair shop ...


4

As@ mac has stated a plow will fit and the truck will push snow. The primary considerations are how often and how long are you going to plow. The longer and more frequently you plow the more the suspension and driveline parts will be stressed. If you are just doing a few driveways you should have no problems. If you plan to plow commercially for long ...


4

It's impossible to give a definitive answer here as to what was done with your truck. However, it is often stated that when larger wheels and tires are fitted to a truck, the brakes should be upgraded. This is due to the larger rotational inertia of the larger wheels and tires, which can make the vehicle significantly harder to stop. Therefore, if the ...


4

If the dump box gets pushed on by a truck or an end loader or whatever, it can cause damage to the box, possibly not even allowing it to dump again. The rear door, while seeming stable to you and me, would be at the mercy of an end loader or bulldozer. Some might want to push the box to get the truck to move, such as if it got stuck or needed a little extra ...


4

The early Volkswagen Beetles (the air-cooled, rear engine'd ones) started off with a 6 volt system, the same as some other classic cars and motorbikes. Obviously there are the 12 volt systems used in most cars and 24 volt used in trucks. The truck systems typically use multiple 12 volt batteries wired in series to provide 24 volts. This is certainly the ...


4

Would there be a substantial enough of a horsepower boost to be noticeable? The most you could see from such a modification is 15hp. This would not be enough for the seat dyno to register, unless there are plenty of hemorrhoids to detect it. More then likely you'd see a measly 5-10hp, and then only at the higher RPM levels would this be apparent. You ...


3

The correct answer will depend on the size of the truck. As long as you have not exceeded the load capacity of the chassis you should be fine. However the longer the springs are the compressed to their maximum deflection the less likely they are to return to their unloaded shape.


3

What about these lights as I discovered in this question CHROME WHITE LED LIGHT NUMBER PLATE SCREW BOLTS Or this one Looks like you just drill a hole for this one


3

There's a possibility that the compressor will have seized up from sitting so long. They really need to be run periodically. However, I've seen some that have sat a long time fire up again just fine.


3

Did you check the inner and outer tie rods for play? How are your ball joints and bushings up front? Were all of those inspected when getting the alignment?


3

I wouldn't use additives to plug a leak unless it's an emergency. That stuff migrates all through your cooling system gunking up everything it can in the process - including radiator tubes with a partial flow restriction... If you are fortunate enough to possess a brass radiator - take it to a rad shop to have the leak soldered. At the same time, get it ...


3

This thread describes a similar problem on a different model year. That said, the symptoms sound strikingly familiar (from the first post in that thread): Make absolutely sure the hole in the bracket is not worn! It should be round with a notch in the top for the new bushing to key into. If the hole is worn even slightly, it's going to have to come ...


3

The safe way of turning seatbelt chime/alarm off During these steps, do not touch the brake at all shut the door. turn the key on and get your instrument panel on ODO and turn key off. turn the key back on, press reset knob immediately. hold reset knob for 12_15 seconds and fasten the seat belt. xxxx miles should turn to b_on. release and press one time, ...


3

The truck in that video has a cap or camper shell. The cargo area of a pickup truck is usually called the bed; trunk is the rear luggage area on a passenger car.


3

One possibility is an split hose causing an unmetered air leak. This is an cheap fix to look out for before spending money on expensive components. Check the crank case ventilation hoses and the main intake hoses.


3

My first thought is that the trailer brakes are correctly adjusted and the trucks are out of adjustment. Excessive pedal pressure (movement) is required to engage the truck brakes. This over brakes the empty trailer causing the lock-up.


2

I ended up pulling off the bed cover by unscrewing the 8 screws on the inside of the tailgate. There was a metal plate underneath that also came off, giving me access to the inner-workings of the tailgate latch mechanism. The plastic hardware connecting one of the pull-rods to the handle lever had snapped. The hardware kit that I had purchased from Auto-Zone ...


2

This may or may not be a permanent fix, but don't overlook the value of lubricating the gears and cables in the handle and the actual side latches themselves. The stress of pulling on cables and gears may waste energy that could be used to pull the latches just that much farther. I've found that lubrication with WD-40 or Silicone spray to be a great method ...


2

By "only one end seems to be releasing when I pull it," I am assuming you mean the latch on only one side of the tailgate is releasing. That, coupled with the lightened pull, suggests to me that the other side cable has worn or broken. In the meantime, to un-stick it you'd have to find that cable and pull it. To fix the problem overall, you'll probably need ...


2

The vast majority of vibrations that come and go at various speeds are wheel and/or driveshaft balance issues. They come and go due to exciting the suspension/steering when reaching resonant frequencies. Yours may be a wheel issue that shops would rather balance as well as they can than tell you you should replace a wheel. There are more expensive ways to ...



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