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5

Check the tension on the serpentine belts at the front of the engine - sounds like they're a tad loose. It may be something else, but start there.


0

From my research on surging idle..A possible solution-TPS(Throttle Position Sensor) connector. I read on a diagnostic webpage that this guy disconnected and then reconnected it and the problem was solved for 3 weeks. In theory it makes sense when the ECM loses the input from the TPS sensor it falls back on a default setting until the TPS is reacquired. Maybe ...


3

Tracy, I've seen bad gasoline contaminate a Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor. Fill up with gas, five miles later check engine lamp comes on (i.e. a code is set. ) This causes permanent damage to the sensor. But again these failures WILL set a code and turn on the Check Engine light. And you've not mentioned the light coming on. Where are you ...


1

Hard to say with the information given. Could be a lot of things. • codes, even if the CEL isn't on there might be something stored. • sensors - MAF, MAP, o2 would be most likely to cause these issues. Should be able to read with a multimeter. • air filter • spark plugs (clean, gapped correctly), wires, cap, rotor, coil • vacuum lines (check engine vacuum) ...


3

The two faults may or may not be related For the idle speed code: 1) Clean the throttle valve. 2) Relearn the idle speed. To do this remove both battery cables and connect them together for 10 minutes. While they are apart take the opportunity to clean off any the acid. After 10 minutes connect them back together, start then engine and let it run at idle ...


3

Sputtering could be fuel, air, or spark. But yes, spark sounds like a likely culprit. Generally fuel related items will generate a check engine light and codes. (You've not mentioned check engine light or codes, so I'm assuming there are none. If there are Onboard Diagnostics (OBD2) codes you should get those items fixed first.) Plugged air filter is ...


1

It may indicate that either you need to wait a while to put the choke in or that you need the idle screw adjusted on your carburetor.


4

Your mower has a transaxle. It's belt driven and has a primary belt that resembles a fan belt for a car. Here is an online resource. Search the URL with "Removing Primary Drive Belt (SX85)" and it will give a diagram and instructions on removing and replacing the drive belt, if that's the issue. The manual covers many other areas as well.


2

A small portion of exhaust gas is sent back to the intake to improve emissions via the EGR hose. If your vehicle is running rich, some fuel will be left unburnt in the exhaust gases. This can explain the wet fuel that you are seeing on the MAP sensor. Unfortunately, this is an indication of bigger engine operability problems. It doesn't surprise me that ...


8

When I looked online, here's what I found about the location of the MAP sensor in your car. As always, a picture is worth a thousand words: From looking at other info about that car it's port injected, not throttle body injected (individual injectors on each cylinder, not just one on the throttle body). As far as I know there should never be fuel in that ...


1

The easiest test to perform, as Ben pointed out is to use a multimeter to measure the voltage to ground. In case you're not familiar with automotive electric systems, most metal on a car is grounded, but even that can be tricky because sometimes the metal is attached to plastic or painted, especially in the interior. I would recommend using the outer edge of ...


3

Some possible causes for your problem: Damaged wiring from starter relay to starter Damaged wiring from battery to starter Damaged wiring from ignition lock to starter relay Broken starter relay 3 and 4 could be possible because the relay click you are hearing could come from a different relay. There is a relay in some cars to turn off other power loads ...


2

Without access to a wiring diagram you'll have to look at your owners manual or see if they put a diagram on the fuse/relay box. Either way, if the starter relay is clicking you can rule out anti theft. The starter relay generally draws power from the ignition and passes power to the starter S terminal. If you're getting power at the S terminal the relay is ...


3

If the engine is capable of breathing mixture and spinning at the higher RPM, it should be producing more power than at lower RPM. Means it's likely getting eaten up somewhere in the drive train before it gets to the wheels, and the most likely candidate for that would be the torque converter as @Zaid suggested. Do you have a scanner for your car? Does the ...


4

The mystery was finally solved after taking in my vehicle due to a check engine light before a smog test. Both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle sensor needed to replace as they were giving faulty readings which caused high idling on top of the cold start problems. I did clean the mass airflow sensor, but apparently this wasn't good enough since it ...


2

Kind of a long shot, but I had this problem with an old Nova, turning right. That was due to loose screws in the carb. It might have been the mounts to the intake manifold; but, my vague memory is of tightening screws on the topside. It was a long time ago.


4

My theory is you have a stuck float in your carburetor. This is causing the fuel bowl not to fill completely. When you go around the corner, the main jets are without fuel (sucking air) and this kills engine power. Getting the carb rebuilt (or at least looked at) will probably solve the issue. You may also try using a plastic handled screwdriver and using ...


3

The air conditioner on this vehicle uses a vacuum powered HVAC controls. A leak anywhere in the vacuum system can cause this symptom. One way to test for leaks is to apply low pressure air (10psi) into the system and listen for leaks. Leaks at the vacuum reservoir are common. So is the line to the air recirculation valve because it is close to the passengers ...


12

There are a few questions in there, so I will try to address them all. The Bueler Time Delay relays are unlike the vast majority of other relays you will find. The difference is that these relays are so-called "smart" relays. They have embedded circuitry that handles the triggering as well as the timing functions of the timed relay. For most relays (i.e. ...


2

Fuel, Air, Spark... those three things in the right amount are what makes the engine go. The good news is your car's fuel system is controlled by a computer which gives feedback on possible issues in the fuel system. You are going to want to read the stored codes. (On Board Diagnostics, for your car should be OBDII) Not sure where you are located, but in my ...


2

Rod Knock Causes Rod knock is when the hydrodynamic layer of oil between a hydrostatic bearing and a journal is being broken during the 4 cycle combustion process. Additionally, rod knock occurs with ball bearings in a connecting rod if there is too much clearance between ball bearings and races. You can get rod knock frequently in conjunction with the ...


5

It sounds like you have a ground issue. When the running lights are on they are actually grounding through the brake lights. When you apply the brakes it cuts off the ground and the lights go out. The turn signals only look like their working. They are probably turning on and off when they should be getting brighter and dimmer. Double check the wiring on ...



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