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Id be leaning toward an ignition problem. If theres an ignition control module, or something similar that controls the spark by taking readouts on various ignition and engine sensors, that's where I'd start. If the problem gets worse as engine warms, but seems fine when cold, that also indicates an electronic problem. As the part fails further, it will go ...


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To unlock the stereo, the 4-digit reset code is required. Here is the procedure to access the code entry screen. If you don't have the code, you have 3 attempts to guess it (.33% chance, good luck). After the 3 attempts, the owner of the car will have to take it to a Toyota dealership with proof of ownership and valid identification to gain access.


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I'd check to make sure that the fan in front of the radiator is operational and not missing any fins or the shroud. And it would be best to install a thermostat, since your cooling system probably isn't pressurizing without one, which means it can absorb less heat. Do not check with your hand!


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If you don't have a stethoscope or a screw driver or similar that you can use as one. Pull the belt off, put some tension on one pulley at a time and spin them by hand any roughness indicates bearing/bushing failure. You can probably rule out the compressor pulley as the noise doesn't change as the clutch engages. Idler pulleys are the most likely to fail ...


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It turned out that the issue was that I had disconnected the battery while working on it. The computer had apparently reset and I hadn't driven it long enough for it to reset/configure/whatevs. Once I drove it for half an hour straight, the engine started running normally again.


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Something similar happened to my 2006 Toyota Prius and I solved by pushing the "Display" button. Maybe the pushing the "DISP" button may do this job for you too.



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