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2

It sounds like you may have a coil pack which has gone bad on the #6 cylinder. The easy way to check this is to exchange the coil pack with one of the other two. If the problem follows the coil, then the coil is bad. If the problem stays at the same cylinder, consider your spark plug wire may be at fault. If the coil is what's bad, you'll need a replacement. ...


3

It's most likely two separate circuits, and two separate issues. Your interior lights, as you pointed out, work when you jiggle the switch. So, if you pull the switch out, and connect the wires directly, does the interior light stay on constant? If so, it's the switch. As for the headlights: Stupid, obvious, obligatory question: You've tried replacing the ...


6

The rubbing sound is likely a seized brake caliper. It is highly likely that the cheapest option will be to have the caliper replaced. If the car decelerates quickly, like you say, then it is not safe to drive. The brake and surrounding components will be getting hot. This could lead to a seized bearing and possible sudden failure. The heat buildup ...


1

A costly mistake (that I just made) while rotating engine forward to gain access to the rear sparkplugs: You can end up with your keys locked in the car. Many sites recommend that you put the car into neutral prior to loosening the "dogbone" which lets you rotate the engine forward more easily. In order to put the car into neutral the obvious thing is ...


1

Door Mat Scoop - Depending on how compacted the snow is that surrounds your car, you may be able to get away with using a doormat as an improvised snow scoop. This would be a good option (assuming you have one), especially if the snow has not long fallen. Car Towing - If you have access to another car (preferably four/all wheel drive), and you can access ...


2

Using your scan tool watch fuel trims at idle, then while still stopped @ 3000 rpm. Fuel trims going to normal (anything below LTFT 10%) when revving point towards a vacuum leak or faulty MAF. To check the AFR sensor pull a vacuum line with the engine running and it should go high lean. Then introduce fuel and it should go high rich. Toyota/Denso sensors ...


0

The classic way to test this is to use the ammeter as you already have. Connect ammeter and get a base reading. Disconnect ammeter. Go to the fuse box and remove a fuse take a reading with the ammeter again to see if there was a drop repeat 2-4 until you find what is drawing the power The radio staying on is a red flag for me. Is this the stock radio ...


0

I've seen where mis-adjusted trunk light switches cause the light to stay on with the trunk closed and then the battery drains. If you have fold-down rear seats this is easy to check. Otherwise you may need to enlist a small fearless helper or a video camera. Or just remove the bulb and see if the problem goes away.


4

Checking the Key Off amperage draw is the standard test for this symptom. An ammeter that is very accurate in the Milliamp range is needed. Low quality meters are readily available and can quickly lead one to a false conclusion. The test: Remove ignition key, wrap in aluminum foil if Smart Key, Wait at least five minutes, newer smarter cars will need ...


4

You need either a digital storage oscilloscope or a noid light to test signal from the PCM to the injectors. If you don't have a DSO you will also need a multi-meter. You want to disconnect an injector, check the connector for fit and check the pins for corrosion etc... Injectors have 2 wires. Shared power and PCM ground. Power will always be the same ...


3

This could be any number of things, a bad injector, broken wire, or a loose or corroded connector. I'd start by checking the connections to all the injectors. Make sure there's no crud in the connector and that it's making good contact. You didn't mention whether there are any other symptoms beyond the error code.


-3

Most likely emissions. Some (most) stuff burns off better at higher RPM (for example CO). Controller will drop down RPM when it can. Or you controller is just having problems. If you put the car in neutral you will put less load on the engine.


5

I'm unsure if it would actually pinpoint a leaking fitting/seal. Using a hand vacuum pump with a reservoir you fill the system and apply ~20inHg. Repeat until you stop seeing fluid entering the reservoir. Leave the vacuum on the system and walk away for 5 or so minutes. If pressure doesn't drop you're good. Generally if you don't see a fluid leak, look at ...


1

i've seen this caused by slight loss of pressure in cylinder(s)... its sometimes an early warning of more severe problems that are developing e.g. if there is some light damage to a piston ring or the head gasket that is going to degrade further if left unremedied. a compression test can rule this sort of thing out.


4

I am presuming this is a gasoline engine. If so, the symptoms sound very much like the throttle internals are dirty. If gunge builds up on the butterfly valve, it can restrict the air required for a smooth idle when the butterfly is closed, so the engine ECU needs to open the Idle Air Valve more that it thinks it should have to and you get into a cycle of ...


2

Sounds like an Air Passage issue to me. This could mean: a bad Mas Air Flow Sensor or maybe a poor Throttle Body Sensor, and maybe even a clogged EGR Valve or a dirty Throttle body Unit. These items can clog with carbon and need to be cleaned or replaced after time. These items cah each be checked with a Probe Light Tester first to make sure you're ...



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