New answers tagged

0

It isn't really important what kind of oil do you use for breaking in your engine, just use good engine oil. The most important thing is that during assembly all the parts got coated with engine oil.. If you are really concerned about the breaking in i would suggest you to use an external oil pump to fill the oil circulation system with engine oil before the ...


0

I have found replacement parts for this which might be useful. The number is: 9046717016 The cost about 1.50 each. Just walk into any Toyota garage and ask if you can order that part in, and it should be ready in a few days for you. Most garages can order parts in for you, if you get a really bad garage just go to the next one, most of them will be ...


1

After much messing about, research, cut hands and many a swear word I got it off. In the UK (where I'm from) something was recommended to me on another forum called Plus Gas. It's a penetration fluid, like WD40, but better. It's thicker and stays around much longer than WD40. I sprayed this on the hinge of the bracket and started to pull it back and forth. ...


2

As long as we are talking about US spec "Asian" vehicles, my personal preference is one of the many "Autel" brand scan tools, which for me have always been able to link up and give good results. I have a 1997 Subaru which the Autel works well on. Keep in mind this vehicle uses a rare protocol, and is only one year past the 1996 US cutoff which mandated OBD ...


2

Based on all the information in the comments as well, it sound like the throttle body is the issue. My buddy who's a master mechanic said that the FI does not have an air bypass, so when the throttle body gets dirty it will often cause a low idle or stalling issue. Based on this forum thread your idle should be 500-600 RPM, and not less. Try cleaning the ...


0

It looks like based on this page http://www.ecatalytic.com/oxygen-sensor-education/oxygen-sensor-locations that I need an upstream right or rear sensor. The denso part number is 234-9012 and runs around $100. I've seen online that it's a p.i.t.a. to change out this sensor. I will do some checking into how to do a vacuum and exhaust leak check, etc. before ...


2

Hard to say exactly what is it, but I would troubleshoot using a stethoscope. Have someone sit in the car, set the emergency brake, hold the brakes, and put it in drive. Might want to block the tires too just to be extra sure. The stethoscope will allow you to find the exact location of the sound. Look around the intake hoses, throttle body, intake ...


0

The mechanic disassembled the gearbox and there was a minor damage in a piston which controls CVT pulleys. When the piston was replaced, the problem got resolved.


-1

Hi your forward drum Clutches burn . You have to change piston, steel Clutch etc.


2

I think your looking at the procedure for a rear o2s b1s1 is an AFR sensor and is mounted on the firewall side manifold. I'd also suggest you do or have some diagnostics done before you replace the sensor. AFR sensors are not cheap and you may find yourself throwing a few hundred dollars down the drain. Check fuel trims. Check for vacuum and exhaust ...


0

To remove the fuses take the 3 bolts on the side out that hold the black cables to the fuse box, the loosen with a thin flathead on the front part of the fuse and lift. They come right out.


2

Replacing an AC compressor involves completely recharging the refrigerant, which requires specialized equipment to evacuate the air and replace it with refrigerant and generally costs about $140 for most vehicles, while topping up an already charged system can be done with more rudimentary equipment, since there isn't any air in the system, simply a lower ...


2

As in the other answers, first check if you are or not getting power to those things that gets serviced when you turn the key. If you have a flat dead scenario here, then you need to check the ignition key. If you get these loads working (lights, radio, etc) and if the starter doesn't turn, check starter fuse, starter relay and starter exciter wire to its ...


0

A straining noise that gets consistently louder in pitch and/or volume as the car gets faster is usually a sign of a worn bearing in a wheel or it could be a problem in the differential (rear wheel drive) or transaxle (front wheel drive). As the car moves faster the wheels and the mechanisms that drive the wheels spin faster making the bearings move faster, ...


1

It is possible the issue is at the ignition switch. The best way to test will be with a schematic and a test light to see that the ignition switch is getting voltage in, but is not putting voltage out when the key is turned. If the ignition switch does put out voltage, follow it down the line to the starter relay, and the starter. Also be sure to check ...


2

It depends what tools you have available and whether you are replacing the alternator. I would probably resort to using my air hacksaw to cut through the bolt just inside each end of the bracket. This will release the alternator. The alternator should be reusable, maybe just needing a washer or two to make up the space cut by the hacksaw. Of course you ...


2

Sounds to me more an alternator problem: I ran with a problem like that precisely this year, and was the alternator brushes being dirty making a poor electrical contact inside the alternator. That will make the alternator not provide enough juice. My experience is that regulators "work or won't work". Also check the alternator belt. Under load or sudden ...


4

Common things that can shut a car down after starting: bad or disconnected idle air control valve (hold the accelerator down after starting, see if it keeps the engine alive) bad or disconnected mass airflow sensor bad ignition switch blocked fuel filter (test your fuel pressure) weak fuel pump (test your fuel pressure with the engine off but the key at ...


1

If you are playing with engine wirings, always disconnect the battery. ECU will never fail and will last forever unless something mechanically damages it, or you have a shortage where it is not acceptable. Normally ECU works on 12v, sensors 5v. ECU is very sensitive box, and it "burns" if you mess up the wires. I personally saw my co-worker "repairing" a ...


2

Check all the fuses and all the fusable links, hopefully he fried one of them. The colour of the fuse means the amperage that it can handle, it is the bell-shaped curve inside that you are checking. Look for a gap. Here's a good vs bad comparison. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace.


1

If you have the 3vze/V6 engine, those are highly prone to headgasket failure to the point there was a factory recall, so that is a possible candidate. The exhaust cross-over tube behind the engine tends to overheat the rear cylinders, so that is typically where the headgasket failure occurs. You may be able to keep it limping along for a while but ...


3

There should be a few screws holding the black trim in marked J in the diagram as well as two screws in the upper portion of the trim. Remove the trim and any connectors. There will be four screws holding in the cluster. Remove those and you can pull the cluster out.


0

After looking at a ground distribution diagram the cruise, head lights and power door locks share some things in common. Given that some things I assume work and others that obviously don't, it would be isolated to a single branch of the circuit. Unfortunately these splices are located in the dash and the dash may need to be removed or pulled back to gain ...


0

There shouldn't be a rubber plug in an oil pan. If there really is, then you either need a new oil pan (if the plug isn't the drain plug) or a new drain plug. A new drain plug should be available from a dealer or an auto parts store and can easily be replaced. If your oil pan has been damaged and someone repaired it with a rubber plug then you will likely ...


1

Typically, when a car is having issues with idling or stalling the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is at fault. There are typically 1 of 2 issues. 1 - The port is dirty. Pull off your air cleaner hoses so you can see the throttle body. There should be a port on the side. This is for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner into this hole to remove deposits. ...


2

This is the perfect use case for the Pac tr-7. It's basically a programmable relay. You can set it up to do all sorts of tasks, usually around bypassing the requirement that a vehicle be in park for video to play or disabling traction control on startup. Good luck man.


0

You will need to have your battery load tested. Autozone or similar performs this service at no charge. Assuming that you have driven the vehicle for some length of time, the new alternator should have charged your battery sufficiently- or perhaps not- that is why it should be tested.


0

I eventually got this problem fixed. For an unrelated issue, both the throttle position sensor and air flow meter were replaced on the car. When the same idle sticking issue persisted after that, we figured it was probably indeed a mechanical issue with the throttle cable or butterfly throttle valve sticking. Earlier I had used seafoam to clean out the ...


0

Probably the most elegant / factory looking solution would be to obtain some Kam Snaps and order the "long" variant which can be installed in fairly thick material. Install one gender of snap in the rear corers of your mat and install the other gender to the rear of your carpet in your footwells. If you order an appropriate colour (probably B5 - Black or ...


0

It could be anything. The best diagnostic tool you can use when a light comes on is an OBD (II) scan tool. It's a waste of time to look the car over at this point. You'll spend hours chasing ghosts without the scanner.


2

Open your glovebox and release the shock on the right side. While holding the door portion, push the middle of the back of the box away from you and pull the whole box down. There should be a 1" X 6-8" panel with tabs on both sides, the right, or top. Remove the panel and you can remove the filter. Be careful not to let leaves or debris fall below into the ...


0

If it only happens with the car moving and the brake depressed, your brake pads are probably worn to the metal. If you hear it while holding the pedal down when the car is running, but not moving, it could be a vacuum leak. If you still hear it with the car off, and the noise occurs with each press of the pedal, your hardware is likely corroded and/or worn ...


0

I work at a Toyota dealer, and I've seen some interesting methods of retaining floor mats, especially because of a policy that we move aftermarket mats to the trunk. I've seen people screw mats into the floor (not recommended. You can hit wires) One person used a wire hanger looped through the back of the mat, and tied it to the bottom of the seat.


0

It's an old car.. You can try to check the leads connected to a battery, might help. Or change a battery or do a "jumpstart". Otherwise I'd say something is wrong with wiring. To me it seems a battery issue.


0

The click must be a started solenoid, don't think you'd hear a relay solenoid. So it means it is in neutral, and a ECU knows it, and electricity goes to starter solenoid. Only doesn't get to a motor, unless motor end gear is stopping against a flywheel tooth. If your lights on the dash becomes dark or disappears at starting moment, it means you have not ...


1

Make sure you are in Park and the car knows it. I've had this happen to one of my vehicles where the shifter would be in Park, but the car wouldn't see that it's in Park because the shifter was "wobbly" when in Park. The shifter was clicked into the Park position, but it could still move around a little bit and stay in Park. For my vehicle, I need to give ...


1

It looks like the only option other than an aftermarket system would be to goto a Toyota dealer or a independent shop with the Toyota TechStream Software and to enable this feature. It looks like this option should be on by default but was never setup or was disabled for some reason. Edit: It looks you may be able to do this from the Multi-Display. SET ...



Top 50 recent answers are included