New answers tagged

4

I think you are are referring to the steering/ignition lock. Once a vehicle is jacked-up off the ground, the suspension hangs lower & sags down slightly. Once the vehicle is let down onto the ground again the wheels grip the ground before the suspension has fully settled, this creates opposing forces between the tyres, wheels & steering mechanism. ...


4

See my answer to another question. Pressure or movement on the wheels of the car can cause the steering wheel lock to bind up and prevent the key from turning. This seems totally normal.


1

I have a 2000 Toyota Camry, and if I'm not mistaken the drivers window control setup is very much the same as on your car. Some things you can rule out: It's not the window or the wiring to the window because the old switch still works. It's not just the aftermarket part because the new OEM part does it too. Here is something you can try. The ...


1

I accidentally put my bf car krys into washing machine and washed it. We open it and used blower to dry it up and it works again


1

If the manual says 87 octane (or higher), that is all you need to run, 87 octane gas. The engine is designed to run at that octane rating optimally. You can run higher octane gasoline, but all you are doing is spending money you don't need to spend. My daughters Acura TL requires 93 octane fuel and running less impacts performance and can ping. My Ecoboost ...


-1

Does it sound like This? If so, it's new engine'o'clock.


0

One sure way to test if it is the piston oil control rings is to put the vehicle in low gear and accelerate to 4,000 rpm, let off the gas quick and look in the rear view, when you decelerate with bad oil rings it will smoke much worse than on acceleration.


-2

Every modern (fuel injected) car will run fine on any type of gasoline you can get on a decent gas station. The car has an engine computer that adjusts many parameters multiple times per second to get optimal performance no matter the temperature, air pressure, octane rating, throttle position, hill slope etc. A different octane rating may make a very small ...


4

You can perform a Leak Down Test to pinpoint what's going wrong. You'll obviously need a leakdown tester kit, you'll need an air compressor, and some hand tools. Pull out spark plugs and either by hand or using a bar, rotate the engine so that the first cylinder you're testing is at top dead centre. You can put a screwdriver in the hole and watch it move ...


2

Here's an article on ToyoNation explaining what you need to do: Link Generally, removing the bolts you don't need a sequence. When torquing them back up, you want to do them up in a diagonal star pattern, as you would with your wheel lugs etc. This guide recommends using a toyota sealant, which is probably about right. Any RTV sealant that's at the right ...


1

A compression test will show whether its the seals or the rings. Make sure the engine is warm and perform a compression test (dry) and take a note of the readings. Then pour a couple of teaspoons of engine oil and pour it inside the chamber through spark plug hole and re do the test again. If the readings are higher, then the rings are bad as the oil will ...


2

87 will work, 89 is optimal, 93 will also work but uses a bit more (will start to run leaner but the computer easily compensates but using more fuel) 87 better for winter (no difference over 89), 89 better for summer (helps when underhood is HOT when you have the A/C running AND trying to keep the engine around operating temp. I would maybe avoid the ...


4

The acid test is if you try a lower octane fuel, if you hear any "knocking" sounds under hard acceleration (perhaps up a hill), then you definitely need a higher octane rating. As Paulster2 mentions, there will not be any performance improvement, in spite of what a lot of people say. The octane rating is just a measure of resistance to knocking. I have a ...


-1

I recommend using 89 . I have 2015 RAV4 . 89 does give you a better acceleration, you are right. So go with 89 . This is the golden average . Your manual says 87 or higher . So anything above 87 is okay. However, i wouldn't go with 93 . Be cautious 93 may result in unburnt fuel that is not very good


20

Realistically, if the manual and the manufacturer are stating you should use 87 octane, that's really what you should use. If you purchase more expensive 89, 91, or 93, you are just wasting money. The higher the octane rating, the harder it is for fuel to burn (or ignite). If the vehicle was specified to use 93, then that's what you should buy or you risk ...


4

3 places where oil gets into the combustion chamber PCV system- you ruled this out Piston rings- engine rebuild time Valve stem seals- these can be replaced without cylinder head removal Thicker oil will not solve the problem. There is no easy solution to 2 and 3


2

It could be crank sensor is failing- test and replace fuel filter clogged- replace it fuel pump- test and replace There are many possibilities though. Intermittent die outs can very difficult to diagnose by anyone.


1

"Do these panels have any functional purpose? Or are they just protecting the bottom of the car from water, dirt and rocks? " That is a functional purpose :-) They come loose all the time on older cars due to the plastic push fasteners failing and falling out, that and techs that damage them when removing the cover for service and do not replace them with ...


0

There is a product called BG Frig Fresh. It's made to eliminate mold and mildew from an AC. There is a drain under the car, spray in from there, or go backwards and tap a hole in the box under the dash. Then spray into the hole (where the heater core and evap hose meet).


9

The shields have multiple purposes. What you stated about rocks and debris is very true. They do protect the engine bay from stuff getting kicked up into it. Another thing they are designed to do is to allow proper cooling and airflow. On some vehicles, without these in place, the engine can overheat due to the air not flowing through the right parts of ...


3

Here is what I do when having a stubborn clutch slave bleeding problem. I attach some tubing to an Oil can full of brake fluid, pump the oil can to purge air, then attach the end of the hose to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, open the bleeder and pump the oil can to force any air trapped up and into the master reservoir. Be sure the oil can is ...


3

Even if the clutch slave cylinder moves, it doesn't mean it's moving enough. If the hydraulics need to be bled, the clutch won't disengage and the friction disk will be dragging on the pressure plate and flywheel. What you are describing is indicative of the clutch needing bled. EDIT: Considering what you said in your comment, it means you need either a new ...


4

Yes Depends on how long it is on there, when the glue dries out it can be hard to remove without damaging the paint (if you need to do remove them for some reason), also the paint will not match anymore as the rest of the car will fade slightly, the paint under the molding will not. See 2


3

I wouldn't say that the car is fine but I wouldn't say that it has something horribly wrong. It could be the signs of a part of the fuel system failing. This could be anything from the pump, filter, pressure relief valve, or injectors. Maybe check your owner's manual to see when they recommend you swapping any of these parts out. If you are past due on any ...


1

A word of caution: soldering creates a stiff section in an otherwise flexible wire. If the wire flexes, the soldered/un-soldered transition is a stress point, where the wire can break. This is one reason that crimping is (usually) preferred (eg). Which is not to say, never solder; just, think about the mechanical support/strain relief. And, clean off ...


7

Soldering wires in a particularly old harness will actually reduce resistance in that portion of the wire. It won't be noticeable except for allowing for greater signal/line integrity. I.e. In a wire with failing spots (where conductor has been damaged or has broken) or exposed conductors, rejoining via soldering will restore the reliability of that ...


8

The coolant capacity of the 2004 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L 4-cyl Engine Code [R] 1ZZ-FE is 6.9 quarts. To accurately ensure you have a 50/50 mix in your system after a flush (assuming you actually flush it until you have clear liquid draining out), is to add 1/2 of the coolant as straight coolant (not 50/50 mix), then fill the rest as distilled water. For ...


5

You can use a coolant mixture tester to test the coolant to water ratio. Any auto parts store should carry them.


9

Yes what you presume is correct. Depending on total volume of coolant (different for each vehicle) how much pure AF I put in, anywhere from 1/2 to 1 gallon, then top off with 50/50 mix. It is better to be over the 50% mix than under, you can go as high as 70%, so don't worry about putting a little too much pure AF after flushing the cooling system with ...


1

If you prefer the bigger wheels and you cannot feel a negative difference I'd plump for them otherwise I'd probably regret it every time I saw the car (except when purchasing new tyres!). I used to be into customised cars a lot when I was younger and used to put big wheels on all my cars, I felt at the time that the styling and cornering grip outweighed ...


1

If you live in a place where the roads are smooth, you are less likely to ever feel the difference. On the other hand, lower profile improves handling, so if you like a more sporty drive (which I highly disrecommend in an SUV) you will find yourself better in the SE.


0

Rule of thumb: 1. always check fuses first. If fuses are okay, then check relays [those are the silver 'fuses' in the fuse harness. 2. all okay? 3. check major relays under the hood. These are generally box-shaped black plastic with larger wires coming out of them. These are major problems in older cars because of the heat and moisture generated over ...


1

If you've established that you're not getting a spark at the plugs, the next thing to do would be to work back - so test the coil packs. Pull out the plug from one of the coil packs and see if it is getting power, has a good ground, and has some kind of signal coming from the ECU. If it does, chances are it's the coil pack itself that's failed (though both ...


0

I agree with Paulster2. Leak down test is about compression rings, not oil control rings. You can have good compression/leak down and consume oil. I would look at the pcv system. If there is too much "blow by" the pcv cannot keep up. Make sure there is vacuum to the pcv, and enough vacuum. A stopped up pcv vacuum port/line will cause excessive oil ...


7

Not a desired answer, but with no leaks (to ground or into coolant) it's possible that your engine is just using/burning what some manufacturers would consider a normal amount of oil: How much is too much? Audi, BMW, and Subaru stick firmly to the statement that oil consumption is a normal part of a car’s operation. Subaru considers a quart burned ...


7

I'm wondering if you are having an issue with oil bypass, as in going through the breather/PCV and ending up getting burned through the intake. A simple catch can would prove this out for you. This happens quite a bit and is easily solved. Two things. The leakdown test will not tell you anything about your oil loss. Its not what a leakdown test if for ...


10

You can do a leak down test but look at your spark plugs first If your burning oil you will see it on your spark plugs. They will be black and have buildup on them. If you find one or two that look that way and all the others are very light in color to tan then you probably have oil getting into the combustion chamber. Here are some nice responses ...


3

I accidentally ran the smart key for my '09 Jaguar XF supercharged sedan through the washing machine once. It was submerged in water for about 10 minutes until I found it. I was able to fix it by opening the shell and removing all the contents. A ran a blow dryer over all the pieces until they were completely dry (at least they appeared to be) before putting ...


8

Legend to Codes E/G - Main is the relay for the Radiator fans. EFI - Is the electronic fuel injection relay. DIM - is the headlight dimmer relay. H-LP - is the headlamp relay. MG/C - is the air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch relay. ST - is the starter relay.


1

P0171: oxygen sensor in bank 1 has detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). the side of the engine that has P0171 is one of the more common trouble codes. This code is triggered by the first downstream (front) O2 sensor. Bank #1 refers to the side which has cylinder #1, In a 4 cylinder it is the cylinder in the front of the engine. The ...


0

I had a 2001 corolla with similar symptoms. It turned out being a evap issue. A real pain in the butt to diagnose. The thing you have to watch with corolla is when you fuel it. Make sure you stop at the first click. Accidentally overfilling can mess up the charcoal canister can make your life living hell. A stuck purge valve can cause flooding issues when ...


6

You should have 2 coil packs on the back side of the engine near the throttle body. Wires run to individual cylinders. I don't know how easy it would be to find locally but you can use an inductance spark tester. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19380-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STS3U Another way to see if the coil pack is firing would be to pull a wire out and ...


5

If you can get to both sides of the fuse, see if you have power on each side. If you want to make sure, remove the battery terminal, and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the battery terminal and the other side of the fuse. Should be zero or close to it. If so, it is good. With this type of fuse, when it blows, there is usually a large gap ...


14

Instead of Ohms checks of fuses I check for voltage with power on. Set your voltmeter to DC volts with the negative lead on the battery negative connector. With the positive lead test both sides of the fuse. If good it will read battery voltage on both sides. Most fuses have exposed metal tabs on both sides of the actual fuse section for this purpose. On ...


9

The fuse connection legs are through bolted on many of these higher amp rated fuses. To find out remove the black plastic cover below the fuses. If you find small nuts then they are the bolted in type. BTW if the fuse links under the clear plastic windows look OK then they do not need to be replaced.


4

Try starting the vehicle in neutral. It might an issue with the electrical connection in the Neutral Start Switch located in transmission console where the gear shift is. If memory serves me correctly there is a device called a parking pawl-sort of a safety locking mechanism. Sometimes this affect the start switch which affects the ability to start Park. ...


5

This is rather specific to the hazards of car ownership in West Africa, so I'm not surprised no-one has suggested this! After using an improvised variant of this method to confirm that it was indeed an electrical problem with no power reaching the spark plug wires, I had a closer look at my fuse box, and specifically the "EFI" (fuel injection sytem) fuse. ...


2

There are a plethora of things you should check prior to buying the vehicle, assuming you haven't already had a mechanic inspect the vehicle beforehand. Even if a vehicle is 'running', it does not always mean it is running well. Suspension, steering and braking component wear and tear is something you should always look out for, e.g. sway bar link ...


3

Change every liquid - oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, differential fluid, washer fluid, blinker fluid (in Utah, this often runs out on cars I see on the road). Drain the fuel tank, and put decent gas in. Full service - spark plugs, air filters, belts, check the brake pads, disks and drums. Check all hoses under the hood. And ...


3

Could the wiring harness problem have a relation to the acceleration problem? Possibly, if it is an electronic transmission Is it possible to check transmission fluid level in my car? Not familiar with that model but some can only be checked if the vehicle is on a lift, manufacturers have started removing the usual transmission dip sticks and ...



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