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Replace the thermostat for sure, and while you're at it, replace the straight water with 50/50 antifreeze/coolant mix. Use the aftermarket fans ONLY during stop & go traffic in the city; on the open road they serve no purpose at all (ordinary wind from highway speed cools the radiator sufficiently in almost all cases). There's no need to remove the fans, ...


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Get rid of the extra fans. If you're having to run fans constantly to keep the engine at the right temperature in the city, then all you're doing is masking another issue. You probably have several other issues. The engine temperature and the transmission going being able to shift into overdrive should be independent. It seems like you are conflating two ...


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The supplied car jack is for an emergency change of a wheel, pucture?, on firm ground, with the wheel nuts loosened before raising the vehicle, with the handbrake firmly applied. It is not intended for any other use. At no time put any part of yourself, or allow anybody else, under a vehicle raised on this type of jack.


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You don't actually need to jack that car up to change oil. You can reach the oil filter easily from the front and you can reach the drain plug nearly as easily - also from the front - while the car rests on its wheels on the ground. Unless your arms are about ten times thicker than mine are, anyway. In fact, you can reach the filter from the TOP, down past ...


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I'm not sure what it specifically says, but it is indeed not safe to be under a car that is supported only by a jack, hydraulic or mechanical. To be safe, get a pair of jack stands, and use whatever jack you want to raise the car high enough to put the stands in place, then lower it so vehicle is resting on the stands. The jack that comes with the car ...


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Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on. Unless you have a ...


2

I've done a quick search and found this image for a 1991 Corolla, manual, sedan, for the canadian market. You have 2 bolts to remove, the one on the top of the pillar and the one that attach both end of the seat belt. They may be hidden Under some plastics panel. It should be an easy task but make sure to tighten the bolt back!!


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I would see what happens over a weeks time. You may have air trapped in the system that is slowly working it's way out. If it continues I would start with the following. Remove the spark plugs and put the pressure tester on. If you think the tester will hold pressure for a while let it sit pressurized, you can leave it overnight. Check and see if you see ...


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Zaid has covered the mechanism of the gearlever and its switch and relay. The speedo is made up of a driving wheel on the transmission output, which is an interferance fit, which can go bad, and not do any driving of the speedo transducer. The speedo driving wheel drives the transducer, which gives out a sequence of pulses to the ECU to give a 'speedo ...


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Bad alternators don't always make noise, and sometimes good alternators can appear to be noisy. That reminds of those guys who check tire pressure by just looking at the tires... Like others have said, don't play the guessing game, go to your local hardware store, grab a multimeter and figure out what's going on. It's not difficult to test your charging ...


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Set your multimeter to the "20 VDC" or similar setting. NOT "AC", be sure it's on "DC". With the car off, measure between the two battery posts. NOT the clamps, but the posts themselves that are part of the battery. Note the reading - it should be above about 12.5V if the battery is fully charged. Now start the car and measure again. With the engine ...


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I'd still suspect the alternator - they don't always get noisy when they fail, as there are multiple things that can fail... To check it with a multimeter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. With the engine off this should be around or just over 12v, and with it running it should be around 14.5v - if it is significantly higher (e.g. 18v) then ...


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"When using cruise control and pulling the lever for acceleration RPM goes all the way up giving a sudden push to reach the desired speed." That's an important characteristic. That means one of two things: Either (a) your accelerator cable is running into an obstruction that prevents it from opening the throttle further or else (b) (if that car happens to ...


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A compression test is part and parcel of this sort of complaint. But dont forget the good old cylinder leakage test. This will pin point areas a lone compression test wil not do. There are cases of this sort of high oil consumption, and in a lot of these cases using a cheaper oil of the wrong viscosity and grade leads to the piston rings becoming gummed up ...


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COULD be worn rings, COULD be bad valve stem seals, COULD be blown head gasket. They all require removing the head, which is easier to do if the engine's sitting on the shop floor. Rings require that the engine be pulled all the way apart. Did your mechanic run a compression test? That'll tell more about this problem than anything else will. Worn ...



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