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4

Common things that can shut a car down after starting: bad or disconnected idle air control valve (hold the accelerator down after starting, see if it keeps the engine alive) bad or disconnected mass airflow sensor bad ignition switch blocked fuel filter (test your fuel pressure) weak fuel pump (test your fuel pressure with the engine off but the key at ...


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There should be a few screws holding the black trim in marked J in the diagram as well as two screws in the upper portion of the trim. Remove the trim and any connectors. There will be four screws holding in the cluster. Remove those and you can pull the cluster out.


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It depends what tools you have available and whether you are replacing the alternator. I would probably resort to using my air hacksaw to cut through the bolt just inside each end of the bracket. This will release the alternator. The alternator should be reusable, maybe just needing a washer or two to make up the space cut by the hacksaw. Of course you ...


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Sounds to me more an alternator problem: I ran with a problem like that precisely this year, and was the alternator brushes being dirty making a poor electrical contact inside the alternator. That will make the alternator not provide enough juice. My experience is that regulators "work or won't work". Also check the alternator belt. Under load or sudden ...


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This is the perfect use case for the Pac tr-7. It's basically a programmable relay. You can set it up to do all sorts of tasks, usually around bypassing the requirement that a vehicle be in park for video to play or disabling traction control on startup. Good luck man.


2

Check all the fuses and all the fusable links, hopefully he fried one of them. The colour of the fuse means the amperage that it can handle, it is the bell-shaped curve inside that you are checking. Look for a gap. Here's a good vs bad comparison. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace.


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Open your glovebox and release the shock on the right side. While holding the door portion, push the middle of the back of the box away from you and pull the whole box down. There should be a 1" X 6-8" panel with tabs on both sides, the right, or top. Remove the panel and you can remove the filter. Be careful not to let leaves or debris fall below into the ...


2

As long as we are talking about US spec "Asian" vehicles, my personal preference is one of the many "Autel" brand scan tools, which for me have always been able to link up and give good results. I have a 1997 Subaru which the Autel works well on. Keep in mind this vehicle uses a rare protocol, and is only one year past the 1996 US cutoff which mandated OBD ...


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Based on all the information in the comments as well, it sound like the throttle body is the issue. My buddy who's a master mechanic said that the FI does not have an air bypass, so when the throttle body gets dirty it will often cause a low idle or stalling issue. Based on this forum thread your idle should be 500-600 RPM, and not less. Try cleaning the ...


2

I think your looking at the procedure for a rear o2s b1s1 is an AFR sensor and is mounted on the firewall side manifold. I'd also suggest you do or have some diagnostics done before you replace the sensor. AFR sensors are not cheap and you may find yourself throwing a few hundred dollars down the drain. Check fuel trims. Check for vacuum and exhaust ...


2

Hard to say exactly what is it, but I would troubleshoot using a stethoscope. Have someone sit in the car, set the emergency brake, hold the brakes, and put it in drive. Might want to block the tires too just to be extra sure. The stethoscope will allow you to find the exact location of the sound. Look around the intake hoses, throttle body, intake ...


2

Replacing an AC compressor involves completely recharging the refrigerant, which requires specialized equipment to evacuate the air and replace it with refrigerant and generally costs about $140 for most vehicles, while topping up an already charged system can be done with more rudimentary equipment, since there isn't any air in the system, simply a lower ...


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As in the other answers, first check if you are or not getting power to those things that gets serviced when you turn the key. If you have a flat dead scenario here, then you need to check the ignition key. If you get these loads working (lights, radio, etc) and if the starter doesn't turn, check starter fuse, starter relay and starter exciter wire to its ...


1

It is possible the issue is at the ignition switch. The best way to test will be with a schematic and a test light to see that the ignition switch is getting voltage in, but is not putting voltage out when the key is turned. If the ignition switch does put out voltage, follow it down the line to the starter relay, and the starter. Also be sure to check ...


1

After much messing about, research, cut hands and many a swear word I got it off. In the UK (where I'm from) something was recommended to me on another forum called Plus Gas. It's a penetration fluid, like WD40, but better. It's thicker and stays around much longer than WD40. I sprayed this on the hinge of the bracket and started to pull it back and forth. ...


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If you are playing with engine wirings, always disconnect the battery. ECU will never fail and will last forever unless something mechanically damages it, or you have a shortage where it is not acceptable. Normally ECU works on 12v, sensors 5v. ECU is very sensitive box, and it "burns" if you mess up the wires. I personally saw my co-worker "repairing" a ...


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Make sure you are in Park and the car knows it. I've had this happen to one of my vehicles where the shifter would be in Park, but the car wouldn't see that it's in Park because the shifter was "wobbly" when in Park. The shifter was clicked into the Park position, but it could still move around a little bit and stay in Park. For my vehicle, I need to give ...


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It looks like the only option other than an aftermarket system would be to goto a Toyota dealer or a independent shop with the Toyota TechStream Software and to enable this feature. It looks like this option should be on by default but was never setup or was disabled for some reason. Edit: It looks you may be able to do this from the Multi-Display. SET ...


1

Typically, when a car is having issues with idling or stalling the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is at fault. There are typically 1 of 2 issues. 1 - The port is dirty. Pull off your air cleaner hoses so you can see the throttle body. There should be a port on the side. This is for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner into this hole to remove deposits. ...


1

If you have the 3vze/V6 engine, those are highly prone to headgasket failure to the point there was a factory recall, so that is a possible candidate. The exhaust cross-over tube behind the engine tends to overheat the rear cylinders, so that is typically where the headgasket failure occurs. You may be able to keep it limping along for a while but ...



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