Hot answers tagged

37

This is a common problem for all air conditioners (in a car or not), and is caused by mildew growth. In cars it often happens when people run their A/C on the recirculation all of the time, or the drain gets clogged. The system doesn't dry out completely and mildew starts to grow. You should be concerned about your health, especially if you have allergies. ...


30

According to 2010 Prius Emergency Response Guide (page 10): Being electronic, the gearshift selector and the park systems depend on the low voltage 12 Volt auxiliary battery for power. If the 12 Volt auxiliary battery is discharged or disconnected, the vehicle cannot be started and cannot be shifted out of park. The auxiliary battery is located in the ...


13

If it has been driving fine since then, all you have probably done is worn the brake pads down. Not fatal - but check when you pull the handbrake on that it is solidly holding the car stationary. If you notice vibration, then I'd worry about pads/disks being warped or damaged. You may find though that you need the handbrake cable to be tightened, as it may ...


11

I think Meineke was taking you for a ride (pun intended). Here is my reasoning: If it was leaking as bad as they say (or showed you) it was, you wouldn't have had any oil in your vehicle when you got to their shop. If the car was having the massive oil leaks all over the engine compartment as they showed you, there would have been VOLUMES of smoke from it ...


11

The power losses in a MT are primarily do to friction. Everything in a MT is positively locked together, meaning there is no slip anywhere. Beyond friction at least one of the rotating assemblies is partially submerged in the gear lube to provide splash lube for everything else. Stirring the fluid looses power. In an automatic everything I just mentioned ...


9

You're going to have to bed the brakes in properly. Be very careful. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm follow these instructions (at your own risk). A friend had a similar car as yours (IS300) and had the same problem. Once I bedded the rotors in, noise was minimized.


9

If the RPM rises without a corresponding change in velocity in a vehicle with a manual transmission you've got a slipping clutch.


8

I assume that when you mentioned that the recharge only lasted for a month, that was until the a/c stopped working again? Usually a/c stops working when there is not enough pressure in the system due to it being low on refrigerant and given how long a non-leaking system normally lasts without a recharge, you've got a fairly substantial leak in a/c terms. ...


8

Here are the exact instructions from the owner’s manual: Operations are the same except the item number three: If you cannot shift the selector lever out of “P” position to other positions even though the brake pedal is depressed, use the shift lock override button as follows: Turn the ignition key to “LOCK” position. Make sure the parking ...


8

Your truck is designed to carry that load. If you consider carrying a full set of passengers. 1 in the front, 3 in the back, that weight would exceed your current load of 500 pounds. I would not be concerned at all regarding doing on what you plan on doing. In fact, make it 1,000 pounds and do it, your truck would handle that just fine although it may ...


7

It's probably that the pads need bedding in as NoCarrier says. However, my sister-in-law once had her brakes start squealing even though there was plenty of pad left, and the problem ended up being a small stone that got stuck between the pad backing plate and the rotor, in front of the edge of the pad.


7

How does the pedal feel? Does it have the same resistance as normal, or does it feel really soft, and go straight to the floor? If it it the latter, chances are you have air in the system, or a leak - check the fluid level in the reservoir (which should look similar to the brake one, but usually smaller). If it feels normal, there could still be a small ...


6

Besides the weight, be sure that you buy oil has a "C" code in the service symbol. The "C" indicates that the oil was formulated for a diesel engine; gasoline engines use an "S" code. The top half of the ring should say "API Service C-something". Note that you can have an oil that works for both. The logo looks like this one:


6

I found these instructions on a forum. After several tries, I was able to get both the ignition and keyless entry to work. Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. (Yes it Does for a 2009 Prius. Also BIG Thing: Have only the old remote ...


6

Assuming that you have no faults with your transmission, it doesn't matter - an automatic transmission will automatically switch down gear as and when it needs to. All the '2' gear does is not let you go over 2nd gear - which if you were heading downhill could make your engine over-rev...generally not recommended. So D should be just fine.


6

Find some pin-on drapery hooks at a hardware store. I couldn't find an online image. If you can picture a lower case letter Y. The lower part is a pointed pin that can be inserted in the carpet. This will leave aU shaped piece to catch the mat.


6

Yes, it will. However, your biggest concern is going to be getting enough air flowing over it. Do yourself a favour and go look at the engine bay of a 200x model Subary Impreza WRX. The intercooler is mounted flat on the top of the engine and the characteristic scoop forces air onto it to cool the intake air. The same type of thing might work for your ...


6

Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on. Unless you have a ...


6

I'm not sure what it specifically says, but it is indeed not safe to be under a car that is supported only by a jack, hydraulic or mechanical. To be safe, get a pair of jack stands, and use whatever jack you want to raise the car high enough to put the stands in place, then lower it so vehicle is resting on the stands. The jack that comes with the car ...


6

MAJOR UPDATE - TOYOTA WARRANTY EXTENSION FOR "STICKY DASHBOARDS" Today ( 12/29/2014 ) I received in the mail a Warranty Enhancement Notification regarding my Toyota. Complete coincidence that I received this a few weeks after I posted the original question. A relevant December 18th, 2014 article from a consumer investigator regarding this issue. ...


6

Can you tell which wheel(s) the noise is coming from? If you can, jack the car up and support it on stands, then remove the wheel(s) in question, and visually inspect the pads and discs, including the back of the disc between it and the stone-shield. It might be as simple as a stone stuck in the brakes, or you might find that one of the calipers has been ...


6

You stated that "Only pads have been replaced in the brake components." If the rotors were not turned (machined) or replaced at the same time, this could be a problem. The surface of the rotor needs to be fresh, or the brakes will not work up to expectations. Also, consideration must be given to the proper "bedding" of the brakes. If they were not bedded ...


6

Yes, it is by design ... because it helps to equalize wear across the sprocket teeth and chain links. Here's why I had originally shared a link in the comments which presents the formula to calculate what's known as hunting tooth frequency. Mesh rate aside, this is governed by the the number of teeth in the sprocket and chain, a and b respectively: ...


6

You need to completely rebleed your system. You obviously have air in it. If you have a power bleeder which fits the master cylinder, the better. For future reference: DO NOT BLEED THE BRAKING SYSTEM BY REMOVING ALL THE BRAKE FLUID FIRST!!! I apologize for yelling at you, but this is absolutely the wrong way to go about bleeding the system. The idea is ...


6

Modern engine preheaters are usually made of flexible heater mats, similar to those used in seat heaters. These are glued to the bottom of the oil pan. This heats the engine oil. This thins the oil allowing it to pump much more quickly which has two effects. 1) The crankshaft spins faster allowing faster start. 2) The oil reaches the bearings much ...


6

On page 186 of the owners manual there are instructions that tell you what to do when this indicator blinks. Highlighted below: (highlight added for emphasis) Given that you've tried shifting to different modes several times, you may not know what mode it thinks it's shifting from. You may be able to simply go through all the possible sequences ...


6

Two possible failed parts: The ignition switch or the starter relay. The ignition switch would be either not returning to run or has failed electrically. The relay would have to be stuck on or commanded on by the Security ECU. The security system is not supposed to turn on the starter only stop it from working. It is the least likely failure.


5

What you're describing sounds unusual. In an ideal situation, when you brake, even if you lock up the tires, you're going to continue moving in the same direction unless some outside force acts upon the car. To spin a car 180 degrees requires a mechanical malfunction, or an outside force. Start with the tires: are they the same on all 4 corners, and ...


5

There's a chance that the belt may be slipping when you hit the puddle...and as a result you may be losing feedback. How long are you without power steering?


5

Leaving the car in gear should not have had any effect, when you turned the engine it would have simply turned the wheels. I suspect the distributor may be 180 degrees out but I need more information from you about the condition.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible