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I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. ...


I believe you are confusing torque (TQ) and horsepower (HP) terms here. HP is a mathematical computation based on TQ. You can derive a HP number by increasing the rotational speed up/down depending on what you want to achieve. Weight of a vehicle will have no affect on either. As mentioned in the comments, TQ output (at the wheels) is greatly affected by ...


I would use some anti-seize on the threads then tighten it to torque spec. If it doesn't line up then I would tighten it until it does. This is just what I would do. If it is a weak bolt or a really bad place for the threads to strip then I would just loosen it until it lines up. Once the cotter pin is in it shouldn't go anywhere anyways.


I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure. The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.


From Wikipedia: Brake horsepower (bhp) is the measure of an engine's horsepower before the loss in power caused by the gearbox, alternator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components such as power steering pump, muffled exhaust system, etc. Brake refers to a device which was used to load an engine and hold it at a desired rotational speed. ...


You've actually asked two different questions. There is a very simple, mathematical relationship between torque and power. The power P generated at any given point in time is equal to the torque T produced at that time multiplied by the angular velocity w (i.e. engine RPM) at that time. P = T * w As to how the power is distributed to the wheels, that's ...

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