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9

Yes you should store it at zero, it weakens the spring. I would have it checked/calibrated to make sure it is still accurate.


8

Nope, doing it with the wheels on the ground if fine, no need to lift the weight of the wheels. It's easier that way because the wheels can't turn while you are torquing the lugs.


6

I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. ...


6

In an ideal world where time plays no issue you would torque all the lug nuts to 1/3 of the reccomended torque in a crisscross pattern. Reset the torque wrench to 2/3 of the torque spec and tighten again in a crisscross pattern. Finally set the wrench to 100% of the torque spec and do the final tightening. After 50 miles recheck the lugs with the wrench set ...


6

90° = quarter turn. 180° = half turn. It's alright if you are off a few degrees. I typically start with the breaker bar perpendicular (straight out) and do quarter turns, or have it straight off to the left. Just keep yourself parallel or perpendicular to where you start. DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH. It's bad for the torque wrench to turn after its ...


5

I believe you are confusing torque (TQ) and horsepower (HP) terms here. HP is a mathematical computation based on TQ. You can derive a HP number by increasing the rotational speed up/down depending on what you want to achieve. Weight of a vehicle will have no affect on either. As mentioned in the comments, TQ output (at the wheels) is greatly affected by ...


4

I think a click wrench is an automatic torque wrench. I think an automatic torque wrench is any wrench that stops applying torque once the specified torque is reached. This could be achieved in a number of ways. Whether it uses a clutch or spring and ball is irrelevant. A click wrench will briefly stop applying torque once the specified torque is reached ...


4

Torque is how strong your engine is and Horsepower is a measure of how fast it can use that power. That is why a Diesel engine with 400Nm of Torque cannot out-accellerate a petrol car with 400Nm of Torque. Horsepower is calculated by multiplying the amount of torque by the RPM of the engine (and dividing by 5,252. But that's not important here). Because a ...


4

This is a great vehicle dynamics question that essentially has two parts to it: Is the motor able to hit top speed, 120 mph? Is the torque enough to accelerate it to top speed within 5 seconds? The motor in question Power : 1000 W (~ 1.36 hp) Speed : 3200 RPM Torque : 1.91 Nm Something interesting to note here is the apparent discrepancy between ...


4

The engine torque produced is a function of the amount of air ingested and the air/fuel ratio combusted in the cylinder(s), combined with 'static' variables like the compression ratio, bore/stroke, crankshaft design, intake length, cam profile, intake and exhaust sizing, etc. With all the other parameters now static (non-variable) once the engine is built ...


3

horsepower = (torque * RPM) / 5252 always. Typically engines have to suck in their air and fuel so they can only suck in an optimal amount in a certain range. With a turbo you are forcing the air in, so the engine can make more torque over a wider range. If there is a max torque the manufacturer wants to set (for torque limit on the ...


3

The general "rule of thumb" for horsepower ratings between crank HP (CHP) and rear-wheel HP (RWHP) is ~18-20%. An automatic transmission will be closer to 20%, while a manual transmission around 18%. As you stated, and for the same reasons, these are just a general guideline. If you have the CHP number available, multiply that number by .8. (ie: 450hp x 0.8 ...


3

Torque in a motorcycle The piston moves up and down, and the force for that comes from the fuel that is burned. Connected to the piston is a rod, the connecting rod, and that rod is connected (with the ability to turn) to the crankshaft. The distance between the pedal to the rotation point is comparable to the distance between the crank and the middle ...


3

If you were to simply replace the existing petrol engine with an electric motor, then yes, it would ruin the gearbox very quickly, as it won't be able to handle that amount of torque. However, even if the transmission would cope, that wouldn't be the best way of doing it - an electric motor has a very different torque curve to an internal combustion engine, ...


3

As you said the crux of the issue has to do with getting every last amount of energy out of a unit of fuel. You can consider this your total fuel efficiency. Accelerating your vehicle from rest to 60mph or 100km/h will require a fixed amount of energy based on the weight of the vehicle. (excluding wind, friction and rolling resistance). So you need to ...


3

I would use some anti-seize on the threads then tighten it to torque spec. If it doesn't line up then I would tighten it until it does. This is just what I would do. If it is a weak bolt or a really bad place for the threads to strip then I would just loosen it until it lines up. Once the cotter pin is in it shouldn't go anywhere anyways.


3

I'm going to buck the other two answers and tell you DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT. It is very important to torque your head bolts correctly. The actual preferred method for attaining the proper torque is by figuring out the fastener stretch, not by using a torque wrench. When torquing, you are applying a clamping load on the object you are torquing. You can ...


3

Torque the bolt to the required torque. Then mark the head of the bolt with a marker or pen. This way you can visually check the angle. This is commonly used to ensure bolts are torqued during assembly.


2

Do you have a workshop manual for the car? The torque figures should be listed in there. In the UK Haynes manuals they are at the beginning of the relevant chapter. I'm not aware of a specific order for oil sump bolts, but if there is one it should be listed in the approprate section of said manual. Normally it is only head bolts that need to be tightened ...


2

My Craftsman torque wrench cannot be put back in the box unless it's at 20%. Granted, the plural (or even singular) of anecdote is not data, but I have always heard 20-25% of the max torque it's rated for.


2

air filter is a good place to start. Some owners of older diesel MBZs have used Seafoam or diesel purge to some effect. Take a look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCVdSiECajQ be careful, as its easy to hydrolock your motor doing this.


2

You've actually asked two different questions. There is a very simple, mathematical relationship between torque and power. The power P generated at any given point in time is equal to the torque T produced at that time multiplied by the angular velocity w (i.e. engine RPM) at that time. P = T * w As to how the power is distributed to the wheels, that's ...


2

I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure. The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.


2

Does accelerating faster worsen fuel efficiency? Yes. Now obviously when you accelerate harder, more fuel is being pumped into your engine, but you'll sooner get to that cruising sweet spot where fuel consumption is a lot less. So is the payoff worth it or not? No. This is easily measured via the OBD II port. For example, my Accessport ...


2

That's not a realistic flat-torque graph. It should look more like the following in the real world: Although you woold find that the horsepower v torque holds true if you apply the calculation at any point on the RPM band.


2

From Wikipedia: Brake horsepower (bhp) is the measure of an engine's horsepower before the loss in power caused by the gearbox, alternator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components such as power steering pump, muffled exhaust system, etc. Brake refers to a device which was used to load an engine and hold it at a desired rotational speed. ...


2

Your engine was designed in such a way that it is most efficient between 3500RPM and 5000RPM. That means that the valve timing and camshaft profiles were made in such a way that your engine "breathes" best between those speeds. That's why you have the most torque in that region. Another thing is that as the RPM increases, it gets harder and harder to get the ...


2

There are various reasons as to why an engine is not efficient beyond its tuned range. Laws of thermodynamics, I do not want to get into scientific details but it simply means that you cannot transfer heat and convert it into energy efficiently beyond a certain point where the ambient temperature and cylinder pressure start to make more impact. Geometry of ...


2

If you don't have access to a torque angle gauge (as rpmerf recommends) or space is tight, here is one possible way estimate the angle with a ratchet: Find a ratchet that fits Without any socket on the ratchet, rotate the square drive head 180° by hand while counting the number of clicks felt. [My own 1/2"-drive ratchet clicks 36 times in a 180° sweep, so ...


2

You have several options: The internet is a vast resource ... use your Google-Fu and figure it out. You can always ask on here. There are enough of us on here we can get you the torque value for your fastener. You can use the following torque chart from the Bolt Depot: If all else fails, get a dial indicated torque wrench. Put it on the fastener and ...



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