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10

While regular maintenance is not required it is advisable to check how much the chain has stretch, say every few 100K. If the chain stretches too much the tensioner may no longer be able to perform its job. There's also the problem of the pins becoming a bit loose in the side plates. The chain should also get a visual check whenever the opportunity presents ...


8

Even if the timing belt is "probably" okay, you have to weight the costs and benefits of not replacing it. From what I can tell, this car has an interference engine, meaning if the timing belt breaks, the cylinders will smash into the valves. As long as they don't break off and also tear up the cylinders/combustion chamber, this is a difficult but doable job ...


7

There really isn't an indicator for belts, unfortunately. If the boyfriend of the previous owner says the dealer changed it, bring the car to that dealer, if possible, and have them look up a service record. If you're far away from the dealer, call in and have your VIN handy. I'd say this is your best bet.


7

tl;dr: a broken timing belt always means some sort of damage. Like Brian says, interference engines are obviously at risk of the most straightforward damage: pistons hitting valves with great energy, causing ma$$ive destruction. Here is a cautionary video illustrating some of the parts that can be immediately broken, causing a appalling domino effect of ...


7

You don't weigh them against each other. Items are generally inspect or replace at x miles or y period of time, whichever comes first. This is what you need to do to keep the car within factory tolerances. Go outside of that range and you become a "test driver", which may not be an issue, but it could be for certain parts...


6

As they are made of rubber, belts begin to perish over time, and this weakens them. The constant flexing as the engine turns accelerates this weakening process. Eventually (if it weren't replaced), the rubber would split and the belt would snap - causing very expensive damage to your engine... It is quite easy to visually observe a belt that definitely ...


6

Belts are quieter but are often less obviously worn before they break (chains stretch and loosen, belts tend to stay tight without damaged belt teeth up until the moment they snap). Timing belts are also less complicated (chains require an oil bath). Chains are generally stronger, so vehicles with timing chains often drive more than just the cam with the ...


6

Check with the manufacturer to see if it's an interference engine or not. Even so, that's not an absolute guarantee. Occasionally someone with an interference engine will get lucky and not have the valves and pistons attempt to occupy the same space at the same time. I've also heard anecdotal reports of non-interference engines suffering damage when ...


6

You have the D16A6 engine. From searching various forums it seems that is an interference design. However, while valve damage is possible (probable?), it may not be certain. There do seem to be reports of timing belt breaks without valve damage. Then again, there are reports of bent valves, too (though that is a later 1.7L version of your engine). A break at ...


5

I'm used to timing chains on American V8's, but they will "stretch" over time (think 200k miles) and sometimes on high mileage engines they could "jump" a tooth if they are too stretched out. But they do not require any maintenance.


5

That is usually caused by a tired ancilliary belt (the one that drives the alternator etc) - as the rubber ages, it grips less well and slips more against the pulleys, especially when cold and damp. After a couple of minutes it dries out and warms up, and so stops slipping. The timing belt itself is toothed, and so cannot slip (it would cause a catastrophic ...


5

I think the main reason for this is convenience. It's an easy place to run the water pump. If you ran it out to a fan belt, it would be in the way of the timing belt while doing it, or it would be a really awkward mess trying to work around it. The second reason is for compactness. With the water pump stuck out of the way, it physically makes the engine ...


5

Engine safety. If you lose an accessory belt driven water pump, you're likely to keep driving, thinking the "oh, I just don't have an alternator" while you're busy cooking your engine beyond repair (normally with no temperature notification/change, if anything it'll read cold). When the water pump is on with the timing belt (or geared to crankshaft as is ...


4

If the engine is a non-interference design, you're fine. If it's an interference design, you've probably got engine damage from the valves being open at the wrong time and being struck by the pistons. To find out which type you have, you need to figure out which engine you have. Search for 'gm VIN decoder' and enter your VIN. Once you know the specific ...


4

To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an ...


4

It's not necessary, but VERY recommendable to change all the related things. I had often enough, that the old water pump got leak after change of timing belt because of different tension. You may be lucky, and nothing will happen. But if, you will have to pay almost the same high price just to change only a water pump, tensioning roller, guide pulley or ...


4

BMW's plan was for it to never be changed. Looking at some of the forums, I think advice given from this BMW site seems about spot-on: Well-l-l, I hate to say "never" but the point being, one often needs/wants to crack open & rebuild an engine for other reasons (ring/valve wear, main seals, etc.) by a quarter-million miles or so--at which time, check ...


3

If the wrong tension is on the belt one of two things could happen Too loose: Skip a tooth or two on the belt - this leads to early/late firing and possibly pistons slapping on to valves if the clearances are already tight. Too tight: extra tension put on the belt - this can lead to bearings being incorrectly loaded and at worst a failure in the belt - ...


3

There is some sort of a lock-tight compound inside that thread. I have already removed that screw in my V6 Accord twice. (Practically the same engine) The first time was a pain. I have good socket spanners so instead of braking a socket I broke a, 1/2" in diameter, extension shaft. I used 5 feet long extension bars on both sides of a wrench - delivered ...


3

Most modern car engines are "interference" engines, meaning the pistons and valves will collide if not kept in synchronization by the timing belt. I don't know whether your Camry has an interference engine; maybe someone who knows Toyotas can provide a better answer. If closer inspection by the dealer or another mechanic indicates that the belt or its ...


3

Regular maintenance is not needed. However, a "rattling" noise that changes with engine RPM may indicate a problem with the chain or timing gears. Usually this isn't an issue until higher mileage (150k +). Next time you go by your dealership, ask them if they've had any problems in particular with your year model. If you hear of instances of chains commonly ...


3

For what it's worth, the timing belt slipped (rather than breaking) on my 92 Civic due to a mistake on my part when I was repairing it, and the engine suffered no noticable damage. Before accepting that the engine is ruined, I would spend the money (or do it yourself) to have someone put a new belt on it and realign the timing. Here is my old question and ...


3

I don't know that car specifically, but in general, Holdens have their timing belt (and waterpump) replaced every 75000km to 120000km. But open your car's service booklet. It should tell you the service schedules and what you need to do at each interval. Usually all of them will suggest at least inspecting belts for wear. Keep in mind that a broken timing ...


2

The manual states that for a 2003-2007 honda accord, the timing belt should be replaced at an 8 year or 105,000 mile mark. I just inherited a 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan from my father who purchased this car new in 2004. He drove a total of 55,000 miles in the 8 years in which he owned the vehicle. I feel stuck because I don't want the belt to snap off, ...


2

What are your driving conditions? If you primarily do city driving (stop and go, dusty) or live in a particularly hot or cold environment, then it's worth looking at the "severe service" area of your manual, and go by that recommendation. Usually, it's relatively easy to inspect the timing belt by taking off the top part of the timing belt cover. You are ...


2

Purely based on the description of the sound (and ignoring the tech's comments), it sounds like a bad gasket. Mostly likely exhaust manifold, but possibly intake manifold gasket (especially if it's the 1.8L model, which is prone to failures there).


2

The crankshaft bolt on that engine is just a standard right hand thread bolt. The correct way to get the bolt off is to get as big of an impact as necessary to make it happen. If a 1/2" impact does not cut it then get a 3/4". If you are breaking sockets then you are using the wrong sockets. Make sure to use an impact socket. I have found that ...


2

Honda crank pulley bolts are always a pain to remove, but I think most Honda products have right handed threads, so: Easy way: Lots of penetrating lube with a 3/4" impact and 19mm socket Hard way: The way you're trying. Put more back into it.


2

I may not be 100% accurate but I think belts have expected lift time of 60k-100k and at 100k they should definitely be changed. Chains are claimed by a lot of manufacturers to have lifetime duration and shouldn't need to be replaced. They have been known to break but as Brian mentioned, that's very rare. I've also heard of a more common failure mode with ...


2

I think we covered this before, but I can't find it... Timing chains have much greater service lives at the expense of slightly more noise and friction, as well as a lot more damage if they break (but odds of breakage are much less than a belt).



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