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It's a Diesel, which means that you usually have a high detergent oil in an engine that dumps combustion by-products like soot into the oil as part of its normal operation. Given the age of the vehicle I'm not surprised that the oil has noticeably darkened after 10 miles - one of the older Diesels I owned a while back did that during the time it took to run ...

To add to what others have said, diesel lube oil (the code starts with "C", like "CJ") is formulated to hold lots of soot, and after 10,000 miles, there probably was a lot of soot in the remaining oil that got mixed in with the new oil. When changing your own, never put "S" (for "spark") rated oil in a diesel engine!

This seems to be the clutch is going out or possibly the synchromesh is no longer working. The clutch is unable to fully disengage the engine from the transmission to allow you to shift into reverse. If the synchromesh is no longer working fully, this would make it harder to shift in every gear but it's still possible. You are, in essense, ...

A good trick is to put a small mark on the filter, e.g. a scratch or bit of marker pen that you can identify, but isn't obvious. When you get the car back, check to see that the mark is gone (i.e. they have changed the filter). If the mark is still there, you still have the old filter, and you know you've been screwed...

On some of my manuals, I've found that before shifting into reverse, putting the shifter into 5th gear helps. I don't have a mechanical explanation for this (my thought is something to do with the synchromesh). Try it, see if it helps at all. On my current vehicle my process to go to reverse is: Clutch pedal in Go to neutral Go into 5th Go into reverse ...

Pinhole leaks in the low-pressure lines from the tank to the pump can cause this - the pump sucks in air through the hole instead of fuel from the tank. Check the condition of all the fuel lines, and the connections between rubber flexis and solid lines. Check any seals on the filter for the same reason.

A common fault on variable-vane turbos (which I'm not sure whether the 1.4 has) is hitting limp mode due to overboosting. This can happen if a turbo has had an easy life around town and is coked up, then you suddenly ask it for some performance down the motorway or similar. However, this doesn't normally come with any kind of smoke so I don't think this is ...

Do you have a workshop manual for the car? The torque figures should be listed in there. In the UK Haynes manuals they are at the beginning of the relevant chapter. I'm not aware of a specific order for oil sump bolts, but if there is one it should be listed in the approprate section of said manual. Normally it is only head bolts that need to be tightened ...

White smoke is most likely to be oil- so you want to check your gaskets and seals. Can you smell burnt oil? Another possibility is antifreeze or coolant, so if you don't smell oil these are something else to check. Actually just found an interesting chart at www.jhdiesel.com/failurechart1.htm which has a list of possible symptoms and causes. If you look ...

Disadvantage is that tampering with emissions systems makes a vehicle no longer street legal. Other than that, it probably won't hurt anything at all. I don't see how removing EGR will increase power though. EGR closes at high power settings anyways. The gain would be entirely from some other feature of the racepipe (perhaps it's bigger). The fact that ...

The problem turned out to be a leaking seal in the injection pump. I came across this video which explains how to replace the leaky seals relatively easily and far less expensively than replacing the injection pump (which is what the dealership does).

Oil pans don't have a specific bolt sequence like a cylinder head or crankshaft bolts. This link should be helpful: TDIClub Forums - View Single Post - frequently asked torque specs: Use Silicone sealant D 176 404 A2 Removing Remove center, left and right sound insulation trays: Drain engine oil. Remove securing bolts for oil pan. ...