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15

I would say this would be fine to drive slowly and carefully over short distances (I've had worse) - but things to be careful of: potholes speed bumps (seriously - watch out) cornering hard high speeds Also try and avoid braking or accelerating hard - gently come to a stop at lights etc as you want to avoid too much nose travel up and down. Get it to ...


11

Background While various items such as maintenance and ease of tire removal are cited for the SSSA (Single Sided Swing Arm) design, initial testing and development of all these designs were started on the racetrack. Honda initially released their version of the SSSA with NSR250R. image of an NSR250R All of the early SSSA's were developed for racing ...


10

Looks like a Stabilizer Bar Link for your steering stabilizer.


10

The vehicle in question is a front-wheel drive. FWDs are sensitive to front wheel alignment, since the front suspension and wheel linkages work under different conditions when accelerating and not accelerating: on acceleration, the wheels push backwards on the road, thus tend to move the front suspension forwards relative to the vehicle. on ...


9

What is a shock absorber? I'm going to answer the basic title question with a carefully selected quote from the great Wikipedia: ... their intended sole purpose is to dampen spring oscillations. Think of how you want your car to ride when driving down a smooth road that has a bump or pothole. You expect to feel a mild jolt when the car travels ...


9

From my experience of CV boots, you need to replace them immediately if you want to keep the CV joint it covers. It doesn't take long for dirt to destroy the joint once it gets inside the boot. If you leave it until the joint starts to deteriorate, then you risk failure of the joint at probably at dangerous time when the car is turning around a corner.


8

Your truck is designed to carry that load. If you consider carrying a full set of passengers. 1 in the front, 3 in the back, that weight would exceed your current load of 500 pounds. I would not be concerned at all regarding doing on what you plan on doing. In fact, make it 1,000 pounds and do it, your truck would handle that just fine although it may ...


8

Shocks/struts can either come charged with nitrogen (gas shock) or conventional (without a charge). Both can wear out over time. Shocks should be replaced around 50k miles under normal conditions. That really depends on how you drive your vehicle, though. If all of your driving is done on the freeways of Texas where the straights are longer than long, then ...


7

It is always recommended to replace suspecsion and braking components on both sides of the same axle at the same time, wherever possible. Both will currently be the same age - if one has failed, it is likely that the other is in a similar condition and so could easily fail soon. In the case of springs, the constant flexing of the metal can eventually lead ...


7

Driving at a right angle will make the front and then the rear move further up and down than travelling over one wheel at a time, but that movement will be in one plane. Driving diagonally puts more stress on the chassis as it tries to twist first one corner then then next. The car will not move up and down so much, but will move sideways a lot more. So of ...


7

What you are describing is called bump steer. This is caused by a toe change when the suspension travels vertically. Common Causes include Incorrect tie rod height or lenght steering rack that is not mounted parallel to the datum plane. bent steering parts structural damage to the vehicle I'd start by checking the mounting of the steering rack since ...


6

Normally strut failure makes it to where they are ineffective in dampening the movement of the vehicle on the springs. This wouldn't cause a "rough" ride but in fact the opposite making it very soft and wavy. Where you'd hit a bump and the car would bounce multiple times as it settles back down on the springs. The strut reduces that movement allowing the ...


6

Usually the bolts that strut braces attach to are the ones that attach the strut assembly to the car. The spring is held in place in the strut assembly by the nut in the middle, which I have never needed to remove to install any strut braces. See how the brace below has a hole in the middle for the top shock nut: This shock nut holds the upper spring ...


6

The weight of the car will be sufficient to keep the spring from decompressing fully and pulling out the bottom of the strut frame in the car. You must be careful not to jack the car up without the bolts secured tightly though, this could produce a dangerous situation. Also if you are ever working on the 'southern' half of the spring, where it interacts ...


6

There's an excellent Subaru parts catalog online. I think this is the drawing you want. I'm not sure what you mean by "front" bolt, though -- isn't one directly above the other?


6

The front suspension has a lot of travel (e.g: bumps are fairly comfortable, but the car is 'rebounding' for a long while after the bump.) I'm going to go ahead and call it: you've used up your shocks. A lot of people forget that a shock (aka strut aka damper depending on your particular flavor) is a consumable part. It exists to damp out the ...


6

The only thing I see of any real concern here would be the left rear toe - it's off enough to possibly cause some tire wear. However, since it can't be adjusted, your best bet is to just rotate the tires regularly (every other oil change is a good rule of thumb) and keep an eye out for wear. You didn't say which Nissan you're driving, but I'm assuming it's ...


6

A fairly common issue on cars with strut suspension are broken springs. As the strut wears it looses its ability to control spring dampening. This allows the spring to compress and expand faster and farther than designed. Over time the spring weakens and breaks. The break many times occurs at the very last turns of the spring and may go unnoticed. Look at ...


6

1985 - 1987 All GSXR Models have the 'standard' forks with an anti-dive unit mounted on the slider. The anti-dive unit was actually an adjuster for compression dampening, closing off oil orifices in order to give the front end a 'stiffer' This concept first showed up on the 1985 GS 1150 models. 1988 - 1989 The slider loses the adjustable compression ...


6

As a 35 year veteran motorcycle rider and owner of 15 different bikes during that time, while I don't dispute the unsprung weight argument made by DucatiKiller, I can tell you that there is a much, much, much more practical reason for using a single sided swing arm: It dramatically simplifies chain maintenance. You see, with a double sided swing arm, you ...


5

Frequently, a motorcyclist will adjust his/her front forks up or down in the triple clamps to change trail and rake on the bike. Changing trail and rake on a motorcycle can effect the handling of the vehicle and change the weight distribution under cornering and braking. Increasing the rake makes the bike more stable at higher speeds and decreases ...


5

It might be worth checking to see if the wear pattern looks odd at all. I've heard that if you're wheel is out of alignment or unbalanced it can cause excessive and distinctive tyre wear. See this page for a fairly comprehensive treatment of tyre wear: http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html Having your suspension set up very hard can make you go ...


5

I don't know the specifics of that car, so I'm going to take a stab and assume we're talking about coil springs. Springs only squeak where they contact something else, which is why spraying them didn't help. If you can't see anything else in contact with the spring have a look at the top and bottom seats. Those seats sometimes wear. Not necessarily all the ...


5

You have a couple of simultaneous questions going on here: You have an older / non-new car. Should you have to replace the shocks? Shocks wear out over time and mileage. I'm going to be replacing the wife's shocks this weekend (assuming they arrive on schedule). The existing shocks have at least 50K miles on them so they're at the end of their expected ...


5

It can be very difficult to isolate if it is from the tires or the drive line.. but most of the time, it is the tires. Looking at the tires with the naked eye when there is no load on the tire is not very telling though. The best thing is to find a shop with a Hunter DSP 9000 or similar machine that measures so called road force. This will measure the tire ...


5

It's unlikely that there was any sort of shrapnel damage to the vehicle from a blown tire. It's more likely that the shredding tire whacked the vehicle a few times as it rotated to a stop. I would expect to see cosmetic damage around the bumped and underbody: e.g., rubber streaks and dents. You might find bits of rubber jammed up underneath suspension ...


5

Fork Straightening Process The slider and internal oil valving are removed. The stanchion (inner fork tube) is placed on v-blocks A dial indicator is used to detect deflection as the stanchion is rotated Once deflection is understood a hydraulic press is used to bend the stanchion back to its original state. The process of measurement and bending with the ...


5

In a word, Yes. Maybe it didn't hurt it where you can tell this time, but remember, cars were meant to stay on the ground, not do Dukes of Hazzard stunt flying. Every time something like this happens, you are putting undue stress on your springs, tires, rims, and suspension. Every time this happens, there has been a little more life which has left the ...


5

I pulled the tires off and inspected the front end suspension and steering, and found that the sway bar linkage on the drivers side was detached.


5

The bottom line is yes, if you drag your exhaust over the speed bumps, it will cause damage to your car. It will be mainly localized to the exhaust on the vehicle. Besides flattening out the exhaust pipes, you also put stress on the joints and the hangers for the different mounting points. If you hit the exhaust hard enough, you can cause further damage to ...



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