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7

Surging is when the engine revs change noticeably under constant load and constant throttle (which in theory should result in constant RPM). A very typical one is my Eagle Talon, that had a vacuum leak and at idle the revs would vary between 500 and 1500 rpm as the ECU was trying to control the idle, but didn't know about the additional air. Another typical ...


4

The heater core may be plugged, if fluid is full and there aren't any leaks. Check this when the engine is hot, if one hose is cold or warm and the other is hot the heater core is plugged. The temp gauge fluctuations may be an electrical issue or there's air in the system. If you backprobe the temperature sensor have someone rev the engine and look for ...


3

Your clutch is done and will require replacement. Yes, not a cheap job. Parts, depending on where you are and where you get the parts from, will cost about 1/4 of the cost of installation. Labor, I'm afraid will cost the most here. Since it is a front wheel drive vehicle. the entire engine/tranny combo has to come out to do the job. It sounds as though it ...


3

It turned out to be a result of disconnecting the battery from the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, the ECU forgets what it has self learned about when to switch gears, how much to open the throttle valve, etc. After few days driving, when the ECU re-learned, the problem went away. I had to disconnect the battery again recently, and the problem ...


1

Do you a lift available? See if you can lift the vehicle just enough to clear the tires from the ground, and try to duplicate the problem. Check for any vacuum leaks, and also wiggle the ECCS wire harness and see if you can induce the problem.


1

A surging idle indicates a vacuum leak on the intake. You could have a leaking vacuum line (did you forget to plug something in?) or your intake gasket may not be sealing. Like Vince pointed out an hour ago, a bad Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) could also cause this. Since it was not doing it before your engine work, my guess is the IACV is fine. With the ...


1

I had a similar problem with my 1998 Honda CRV. It turned out to be the idle air control valve (IACV). I cleaned it a couple of times but the symptom returned and my check engine light came on. I replaced it with a new one and it now runs fine. It should be located mid-engine, fire wall side, attached to the intake manifold, held in place with two bolts.


1

This might be normal behavior. From the book Auto Fundamentals, pg. 146-147 in the section "Cold Start Aids": During cold startup on some systems, an auxiliary air regulator admits additional air into the intake manifold to increase the idle speed. The auxiliary air regulator is controlled by a thermostatic switch located in the engine water jacket. ...


1

I don't know when exactly Honda stopped programming this behavior into their cars, but I do know that what you described is a warm-up sequence that some older Hondas go through by design. First a high idle, then an alternating high and low idle (1-2 seconds/cycle), then normal low idle. I would say that the behavior you describe is normal, and not ...


1

I had a Chevy van do that same thing and after several pricey mechanics looked at it a "good ole local boy" mechanic found the issue. My main computer was mounted under my drivers seat and was loose. Going around corners, up hills, stopping ect.... Would break connection and cause surging that drove me crazy for months! He bolted it back down and fixed ...


1

Replace the camshaft position sensor. A bad sensor often makes it surge during idle and make it stutter on low revs. Has the car lost power? Is it difficult to start?



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