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6

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


6

Paulster2 offers sound advice when he says the pads need to be replaced sooner rather than later. I recently took a picture when I performed a brake pad swap that offers a stark comparison of what you could be missing out on. The new pads for my BMW measured 10mm at the thickest part. The old pads were roughly 2mm, thin enough to cause my brake pad wear ...


5

Pending code? The user manual for your device says it should say "PD" for pending codes, so maybe not. "P0130 P" isn't a valid DTC for your vehicle so pending code is really all that makes sense. More specific to your model P0130 is front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean) Possible causes: Open wire to O2 Sensor Short to ground in O2 ...


5

No, you've got everything you'll need. A head gasket replacement isn't a job that requires lots of specialist equipment. It's mainly a set of wrenches (including a torque wrench) and something to scrape the old gasket off. But it's a long and tedious job. And I can't stress that last bit enough, especially if it's the first time you do it. If you want to ...


5

2mm of friction material is not much. I would suggest you change the pads as they have. They may last a bit longer, but at what point are they going to go metal-on-metal and greatly reduce your stopping ability? At any point, the last little bit may flake off and cause this situation. It could run for 5000 miles or it could last 5 miles? Are you willing to ...


4

Does anyone have a definitive answer as to which option I should choose? I do: you need matching tires. That said, it's your car and you have to make the decision. I'd tend to replace all four. @Paulster2 also makes a good point that you could shave down a new one to match. Let's start by looking at one of the most useful paragraphs from the ...


4

Being that I'm mostly done with the job, here are some additional tools that have come in handy, beyond what I originally mentioned: Adjustable (or large, maybe 1-inch) wrenches to grab the hex on the cams and lock in place to break the cam sprocket bolts. 17mm open-end wrench (other people say screwdriver, but the wrench works much better!) to wedge in ...


4

I had a situation like this many years ago: my 87 Mustang would make squeaking brake disk noises from one of the front wheels when the wheels were very close to straight ahead. When I turned the steering wheel, the noise would sometimes stop. This was eventually diagnosed as a brake disk that was very slightly warped. Your car is getting older now (full ...


3

Most likely the second latch just needs to be lubed. Of course, you need to get the hood open in order to do that! Depending on the shape of your front grille, though, you may be able to get some penetrating oil or some kind of tool in to the latch mechanism (the lever you need to press is on the very front of the assembly). Failing that, with the hood ...


3

It sounds very much like you've blown a head gasket. Even with a new vehicle such as yours, this is not unheard of. There are only two ways you'll get white smoke that I'm aware of, those being a blown head gasket or it sucking up automatic transmission fluid. A head gasket is much more common. I'm sure this thing is still under warranty, so get it down to ...


3

You haven't said how old your car is... Old cars did indeed function as you describe with the AC compressor cycling on and off. It was either compressing, or it wasn't. You had to size the compressor for the worst case cooling need (i.e. relatively large) and when the compressor kicked in, it was quite noticeable (i.e. the engine would jerk as the ...


3

At Bob Cross's request, I'll throw an answer out here for you. The information given is with the assumption your engine is an EJ25 series engine, which the 98 Legacy (assumed) Outback had, which is most likely the EJ25D (please correct me if not). While many people call this a "dowel pin", Subaru calls it a straight pin. It should not be threaded (should be ...


2

While a manual transmission in the Subarus seem to run high at highway speeds (according to this website, 3200 @ 70mph is normal ... this to me who runs a vehicle which maintains ~1800-2000rpm at 70mph seems high, but nothing like what you are experiencing), running over 3500rpm at 50mph seems quite a bit excessive. This could be the cause of your heating ...


2

Short answer, yes - a faulty O2 can make the Check Engine Light / MIL to go on. Do you know what the code is?


2

You can check the rear toe in exactly the same way you check the front toe -- using the same string setup, parallel to the car's centerline, measure the distance from the string to the leading and trailing edges of the wheel. One thing to be careful of is that the rear tread (a.k.a. track) may be different than the front. When you're lining up your string, ...


1

It turns out the way to resynch a Cobra key fob is to hold both buttons down for about 6-8 seconds, or until the flashing lights stop flashing. You then release the buttons, and press each of them once. Update: It turns out there is even a Cobra Car Tech YouTube channel, and they have a video showing what I have described above.


1

Your vehicles engine is listed as a 'free-wheeler'. This means that under normal circumstanaces, if the timing belt breaks the pistons and valves will not strike each other. Even so you would need to know why the belt broke and if there is any other damage to the engine which would have caused a breakage.


1

In direct answer to your question... no, there's probably nothing you can try before you invest in a head gasket. There are two possibilities here. No, there are three. First is that your motor oil is entering the water jacket through a breach in the head gasket - the motor oil is under higher pressure than the coolant should ever be, so it'd pressurize ...


1

It's most likely a headgasket. When they fail in a certain way, they allow exhaust gases to get into the coolant circuit instead of escaping out the exhaust valves like the Lord intended. Only way to be sure is to have a compression test done by a workshop. If you're lucky, they'll do it for free, otherwise it's not an expensive or long procedure. They just ...


1

tl;dr: It sounds like an O-ring failed. Funnily enough, I just solved an almost identical set of problems on my 2004 WRX. Here's how things played out for me: Checked AC on the first hot day in a while - sadly, a whole lot of nothing happened. No cool air, no compressor-caused dip on the voltmeter guage. Purchased two seriously overpriced cans of R134A. ...


1

If it is a conventional dowel pin then I expect you should be able to coax it out with a pair of pliers.


1

Welcome to Stack Exchange :) Poor acceleration is sometimes caused by dirty spark plugs or clogged air filters. Keep in mind that the spark plugs are probably more difficult to reach on a 99 Subaru than most other cars since the Subaru has a boxer engine. But, if you feel up to it, you could try replacing the spark plugs ( and/or air filter if necessary ) ...


1

Several items to look into: Even though your refrigerant has been refilled recently there is a chance that you have a leak and your compressor is cutting on/off. Double check that you still have adequate pressure. If the air is only cold when you are moving then that might point to your radiator fans not running and pulling air across your condenser. ...


1

I also own an outback (04) and I have the option to place any amp fuse in the AWD slot located in the fuse box in the engine compartment. This fuse will disengage the rear differential allowing my car to be a front wheel drive only car. This is typically used when there's a flat tire and the spare tire is used. I recommend this for towing as well. Your ...



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