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6

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


5

Pending code? The user manual for your device says it should say "PD" for pending codes, so maybe not. "P0130 P" isn't a valid DTC for your vehicle so pending code is really all that makes sense. More specific to your model P0130 is front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean) Possible causes: Open wire to O2 Sensor Short to ground in O2 ...


5

No, you've got everything you'll need. A head gasket replacement isn't a job that requires lots of specialist equipment. It's mainly a set of wrenches (including a torque wrench) and something to scrape the old gasket off. But it's a long and tedious job. And I can't stress that last bit enough, especially if it's the first time you do it. If you want to ...


5

Paulster2 offers sound advice when he says the pads need to be replaced sooner rather than later. I recently took a picture when I performed a brake pad swap that offers a stark comparison of what you could be missing out on. The new pads for my BMW measured 10mm at the thickest part. The old pads were roughly 2mm, thin enough to cause my brake pad wear ...


5

2mm of friction material is not much. I would suggest you change the pads as they have. They may last a bit longer, but at what point are they going to go metal-on-metal and greatly reduce your stopping ability? At any point, the last little bit may flake off and cause this situation. It could run for 5000 miles or it could last 5 miles? Are you willing to ...


4

Does anyone have a definitive answer as to which option I should choose? I do: you need matching tires. That said, it's your car and you have to make the decision. I'd tend to replace all four. @Paulster2 also makes a good point that you could shave down a new one to match. Let's start by looking at one of the most useful paragraphs from the ...


4

Being that I'm mostly done with the job, here are some additional tools that have come in handy, beyond what I originally mentioned: Adjustable (or large, maybe 1-inch) wrenches to grab the hex on the cams and lock in place to break the cam sprocket bolts. 17mm open-end wrench (other people say screwdriver, but the wrench works much better!) to wedge in ...


4

They make a head gasket leak detector kit to determine if it's leaking. I would be surprised if you mechanic didn't have one. If he or she doesn't they are not that expensive. Here is an example below See my answer here for more info.


4

Either the owner's manual or a repair manual will give you this information. I happen to have an owner's manual for a '98 Forester, and the value given there is 6.2ℓ, or 6.6 U.S. quarts. The factory service manual for a 2000 Forester gives 6.0ℓ, or 6.3 U.S. quarts. It's possible that the owner's manual value includes the coolant in the reservoir (that's the ...


3

Sadly, I have a lot of experience with this exactly situation. We're not quite as deep into the Salt Belt as PA but still.... Will be removing at least some heat shielding ... For this part of the task, the most important tool that you need is replacement bolts. Those little heat shield bolts are the absolute worst: they're cheap metal holding other ...


3

At Bob Cross's request, I'll throw an answer out here for you. The information given is with the assumption your engine is an EJ25 series engine, which the 98 Legacy (assumed) Outback had, which is most likely the EJ25D (please correct me if not). While many people call this a "dowel pin", Subaru calls it a straight pin. It should not be threaded (should be ...


3

You haven't said how old your car is... Old cars did indeed function as you describe with the AC compressor cycling on and off. It was either compressing, or it wasn't. You had to size the compressor for the worst case cooling need (i.e. relatively large) and when the compressor kicked in, it was quite noticeable (i.e. the engine would jerk as the ...


3

Most likely the second latch just needs to be lubed. Of course, you need to get the hood open in order to do that! Depending on the shape of your front grille, though, you may be able to get some penetrating oil or some kind of tool in to the latch mechanism (the lever you need to press is on the very front of the assembly). Failing that, with the hood ...


2

The test connectors are common on Subaru vehicles. They put the car is diagnostic mode and allow for things like the ECU to be reprogrammed. I actually have a Saabaru and had to connect these to use a Cobb Accessport. While it was connected I also had fans and other items turning on and off randomly. Would need some context for the instructions in ...


2

While a manual transmission in the Subarus seem to run high at highway speeds (according to this website, 3200 @ 70mph is normal ... this to me who runs a vehicle which maintains ~1800-2000rpm at 70mph seems high, but nothing like what you are experiencing), running over 3500rpm at 50mph seems quite a bit excessive. This could be the cause of your heating ...


2

Short answer, yes - a faulty O2 can make the Check Engine Light / MIL to go on. Do you know what the code is?


2

You can check the rear toe in exactly the same way you check the front toe -- using the same string setup, parallel to the car's centerline, measure the distance from the string to the leading and trailing edges of the wheel. One thing to be careful of is that the rear tread (a.k.a. track) may be different than the front. When you're lining up your string, ...


1

It sounds very much like you've blown a head gasket. Even with a new vehicle such as yours, this is not unheard of. There are only two ways you'll get white smoke that I'm aware of, those being a blown head gasket or it sucking up automatic transmission fluid. A head gasket is much more common. I'm sure this thing is still under warranty, so get it down to ...


1

In direct answer to your question... no, there's probably nothing you can try before you invest in a head gasket. There are two possibilities here. No, there are three. First is that your motor oil is entering the water jacket through a breach in the head gasket - the motor oil is under higher pressure than the coolant should ever be, so it'd pressurize ...


1

It's most likely a headgasket. When they fail in a certain way, they allow exhaust gases to get into the coolant circuit instead of escaping out the exhaust valves like the Lord intended. Only way to be sure is to have a compression test done by a workshop. If you're lucky, they'll do it for free, otherwise it's not an expensive or long procedure. They just ...


1

tl;dr: It sounds like an O-ring failed. Funnily enough, I just solved an almost identical set of problems on my 2004 WRX. Here's how things played out for me: Checked AC on the first hot day in a while - sadly, a whole lot of nothing happened. No cool air, no compressor-caused dip on the voltmeter guage. Purchased two seriously overpriced cans of R134A. ...


1

If it is a conventional dowel pin then I expect you should be able to coax it out with a pair of pliers.


1

Welcome to Stack Exchange :) Poor acceleration is sometimes caused by dirty spark plugs or clogged air filters. Keep in mind that the spark plugs are probably more difficult to reach on a 99 Subaru than most other cars since the Subaru has a boxer engine. But, if you feel up to it, you could try replacing the spark plugs ( and/or air filter if necessary ) ...


1

Several items to look into: Even though your refrigerant has been refilled recently there is a chance that you have a leak and your compressor is cutting on/off. Double check that you still have adequate pressure. If the air is only cold when you are moving then that might point to your radiator fans not running and pulling air across your condenser. ...


1

I have a 2007 Outback that had the same symptoms. Taking the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor out and spraying some electronic sensor cleaner on it removed the hesitation. There are just two screws that hold it in to the intake, so it is a quick operation. Not sure if long term the MAF needs to be replaced but for now it is holding up.


1

A good fitting single-hex socket is a must. Heating the bolt to red hot in most cases will loosen a rusted exhaust bolt, a sharp rap or two with a hammer will help in some others. If all else fails and the bolts break off in the hole, you are more than likely bound to be taking off the part with the broken bolt in it and drilling and tapping the bolt out. An ...


1

I also own an outback (04) and I have the option to place any amp fuse in the AWD slot located in the fuse box in the engine compartment. This fuse will disengage the rear differential allowing my car to be a front wheel drive only car. This is typically used when there's a flat tire and the spare tire is used. I recommend this for towing as well. Your ...



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