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10

One of two things I think could be happening here. One of your wheels might have thrown a weight and become unbalanced. Second thing to check is to see if you have any ice buildup on the inside of the rim which would also have caused an imbalance. (Not knowing if you are in a winter climate where you are would figure into the second part of this answer.) ...


9

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


6

Paulster2 offers sound advice when he says the pads need to be replaced sooner rather than later. I recently took a picture when I performed a brake pad swap that offers a stark comparison of what you could be missing out on. The new pads for my BMW measured 10mm at the thickest part. The old pads were roughly 2mm, thin enough to cause my brake pad wear ...


5

I had a situation like this many years ago: my 87 Mustang would make squeaking brake disk noises from one of the front wheels when the wheels were very close to straight ahead. When I turned the steering wheel, the noise would sometimes stop. This was eventually diagnosed as a brake disk that was very slightly warped. Your car is getting older now (full ...


5

2mm of friction material is not much. I would suggest you change the pads as they have. They may last a bit longer, but at what point are they going to go metal-on-metal and greatly reduce your stopping ability? At any point, the last little bit may flake off and cause this situation. It could run for 5000 miles or it could last 5 miles? Are you willing to ...


5

I'm assuming no one here answering has driven a Subaru manual transmission before or long enough. I'm fairly certain there is nothing wrong with your synchros or transmission. Subaru's are generally very hard to shift into first while in motion. I daily-drive a 2011 WRX and and the first gear has always been like that, even when it was brand new. I have ...


4

It sounds as though the solenoid is going out on your starter, or possibly the brushes are worn out on the armature. I doubt it has to do with the cold, mainly because you said it did it after being running for a while (on your trip to Tim Hortons). The starter/solenoid would have been pretty warm at that point ... way warmer than it would need to be if ...


4

If you really want a no-install option, and even @paulster2 answer seems like work then why not use old school locks like gear/steering locks? Or better, this -


4

The other day while I was searching for information on electronic relays, I ran across this solution to your problem: (I found it on this site.) Here is the write up which goes along with it, which I find pretty cool: This is a clever little circuit involving two relays and a momentary switch and is more a of a 'logic' circuit than one used to switch ...


4

Being that I'm mostly done with the job, here are some additional tools that have come in handy, beyond what I originally mentioned: Adjustable (or large, maybe 1-inch) wrenches to grab the hex on the cams and lock in place to break the cam sprocket bolts. 17mm open-end wrench (other people say screwdriver, but the wrench works much better!) to wedge in ...


4

It sounds very much like you've blown a head gasket. Even with a new vehicle such as yours, this is not unheard of. There are only two ways you'll get white smoke that I'm aware of, those being a blown head gasket or it sucking up automatic transmission fluid. A head gasket is much more common. I'm sure this thing is still under warranty, so get it down to ...


4

Actually running rich is less dangerous than running lean. I don't know specifically about Subaru, but in general, running lean can cause detonation more easily. And yes, while 14.7:1 is the stoichiometric ratio deemed as perfect for an air fuel mixture, running rich has the big advantage of reducing the chances of pre-ignition or pinging. In a turbo car, ...


3

You haven't said how old your car is... Old cars did indeed function as you describe with the AC compressor cycling on and off. It was either compressing, or it wasn't. You had to size the compressor for the worst case cooling need (i.e. relatively large) and when the compressor kicked in, it was quite noticeable (i.e. the engine would jerk as the ...


3

Most likely the second latch just needs to be lubed. Of course, you need to get the hood open in order to do that! Depending on the shape of your front grille, though, you may be able to get some penetrating oil or some kind of tool in to the latch mechanism (the lever you need to press is on the very front of the assembly). Failing that, with the hood ...


3

At Bob Cross's request, I'll throw an answer out here for you. The information given is with the assumption your engine is an EJ25 series engine, which the 98 Legacy (assumed) Outback had, which is most likely the EJ25D (please correct me if not). While many people call this a "dowel pin", Subaru calls it a straight pin. It should not be threaded (should be ...


3

This possibly isn't worth fixing - I certainly wouldn't fix it. In general you shouldn't use 1st gear except for starting off from stationary. The synchro for 1st gear is different to the others for this very reason. What you probably have done is worn the synchroniser out through not matching revs accurately. If you absolutely must change into 1st while ...


3

DTC P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank-1) DTC P0457 - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off) First let's look at the P0420 causes include: Exhaust leak Catalytic converter Rear O2 sensor circuit The computer compares the pre- and post-cat O2 sensors readings to determine if the cat is working ...


2

It turns out the way to resynch a Cobra key fob is to hold both buttons down for about 6-8 seconds, or until the flashing lights stop flashing. You then release the buttons, and press each of them once. Update: It turns out there is even a Cobra Car Tech YouTube channel, and they have a video showing what I have described above.


2

Should the procedure for this car be same as a 2004 Impreza? I think I would use this video for direction. Should the axle nut be loosened before or after lifting the car? If you are not replacing the wheel bearing, then no. I saw on your video where it says that you can cause damage to the wheel bearing by doing it with the car on the ...


2

The answer to your question is, the Automatic Subaru Outback should NOT be flat towed. If it is determined you have done so, would void your warranty. I found this on the Family Motor Coach Association forum: ... the information in the Outback owners manual being vague when it comes to recreational towing. It specifically says not to tow automatic and ...


2

OK, a month later I figured it out! Here's what finally worked: Delete all duplicate audio devices in the Bluetooth menu Pair the phone using the hands-free system via the steering wheel "off hook" button This seems arbitrary but it solved my problem. See the owner's manual page 5-38 for the exact procedure. If you start pairing using the the radio ...


2

It's most likely a headgasket. When they fail in a certain way, they allow exhaust gases to get into the coolant circuit instead of escaping out the exhaust valves like the Lord intended. Only way to be sure is to have a compression test done by a workshop. If you're lucky, they'll do it for free, otherwise it's not an expensive or long procedure. They just ...


2

While a manual transmission in the Subarus seem to run high at highway speeds (according to this website, 3200 @ 70mph is normal ... this to me who runs a vehicle which maintains ~1800-2000rpm at 70mph seems high, but nothing like what you are experiencing), running over 3500rpm at 50mph seems quite a bit excessive. This could be the cause of your heating ...


2

You can check the rear toe in exactly the same way you check the front toe -- using the same string setup, parallel to the car's centerline, measure the distance from the string to the leading and trailing edges of the wheel. One thing to be careful of is that the rear tread (a.k.a. track) may be different than the front. When you're lining up your string, ...


2

Short answer, yes - a faulty O2 can make the Check Engine Light / MIL to go on. Do you know what the code is?


2

Depending on the colour of the smoke that is produced from the exhaust it could be different sources, have you had a valve cover replacement done on the car? I've worked on some cars that have leaking valve covers where the spark plugs are located and this causes issues with oil seeping into the cylinders, which could be a source of smoke, and oil loss. ...


1

Your vehicles engine is listed as a 'free-wheeler'. This means that under normal circumstanaces, if the timing belt breaks the pistons and valves will not strike each other. Even so you would need to know why the belt broke and if there is any other damage to the engine which would have caused a breakage.


1

Vise grips not an option? Crank them down pretty tight, and it should turn.


1

I just wanted to give an update on this issue as it has been resolved. First off, the noise actually got worse over this winter to where would happen for longer periods of time. I ended up taking my car into the dealer to have then do a total inspection and diagnose the noise. First off it ended up not being A/C related at all. They said the noise was ...


1

In direct answer to your question... no, there's probably nothing you can try before you invest in a head gasket. There are two possibilities here. No, there are three. First is that your motor oil is entering the water jacket through a breach in the head gasket - the motor oil is under higher pressure than the coolant should ever be, so it'd pressurize ...



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