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11

The short answer is "yes." The longer answer seems to hinge on the cost. The 30K mile service on my 2004 WRX included the following: Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft] Inspect Camshaft drive belt Replace Engine oil Replace Engine oil filter Perform Replace engine coolant and inspect cooling system, hoses and connections Recommended Performance ...


10

One of two things I think could be happening here. One of your wheels might have thrown a weight and become unbalanced. Second thing to check is to see if you have any ice buildup on the inside of the rim which would also have caused an imbalance. (Not knowing if you are in a winter climate where you are would figure into the second part of this answer.) ...


9

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


8

The first thing to check is the shifter linkage. If it uses a cable the cable my be frayed on the inside of the casing causing the friction. You may also have some other part of the linkage binding up, but my money is on the cable itself. It doesn't seem likely that it would be an internal transmission problem.


7

The short answer is: none. A grade eight bolt that's broken off in the engine is almost certainly not going to extract in any conventional fashion. There's just too much torque on the threads. If you're going to drill a pilot hole big enough to get a grip on the remainder of the bolt, you're basically going to have to drill with a huge bit. Instead, the ...


7

Typically the fog is from excessive humidity in the vehicle. The three most common sources I can think of are: A leak that allows rain water to collect in the car. Check to see if the rugs are damp, look in the storage well behind the seat and any place water might collect. Do you also notice a sweet smell when the engine gets warm? If you do it may be a ...


6

It depends specifically on what's wrong with the starter. Sometimes you hear a clicking sound when you turn the key but the starter motor gears don't actually turn. This could actually be due to a weak battery, but if you know the battery has a full charge, then it could be the starter gears actually failing to turn. You may hear a whining sound, ...


6

Most water pumps are designed with a weep hole.This is a small hole that leaks a small amount of antifreeze just before the water pump fails.Most of the time the leak is just above the crankshaft pulley.When you shut off the car the pressure in the cooling system forces some coolant out this hole and it drips onto the pulley and is transfered to the ...


6

To replace the clutch technically you only need a new clutch. However most people will purchase a Clutch Kit that will usually contain Clutch Pressure Plate Thrust/ Release Bearing Pilot/Spigot Bearing Alignment Tool The last 2 items are not always included in a clutch kit and they are not always necessary, although an alignment tool does make life a ...


6

All wheel drive vehicles connect the front and rear axles via a transfer case or differential. While on a wheel lift tow one set is lifted off the ground and not spinning and the trailing wheels are spinning at road speed. This places a big load and resulting wear on the power transfer unit. Coasting allows all four wheel to spin at road speed but with no ...


6

Paulster2 offers sound advice when he says the pads need to be replaced sooner rather than later. I recently took a picture when I performed a brake pad swap that offers a stark comparison of what you could be missing out on. The new pads for my BMW measured 10mm at the thickest part. The old pads were roughly 2mm, thin enough to cause my brake pad wear ...


6

If you are in a high humidity area, I would: Coat the part in WD-40 (at least pieces which are made of or have exposed metal pieces). Put them into a large Zip Lock Style Vacuum Storage bag along with ~six oxygen absorbers Vacuum out the storage bag Place bag on the shelf and leave it alone. You may want to put something around the part so any sharp ...


5

I have never had problems with corrosion so I have not used dielectric grease on any of my car's battery terminals. If the battery already has corrosion on the terminals, then I would recommend disconnecting the terminals using a wire brush to clean off the buildup and then reconnecting the leads. If there is no corrosion then I would recommend just ...


5

I only see three options. Modify the hole where the spare tire goes, read cut and weld in a new one if there is room Find a way to mount it outside the trunk, like under the car, doubtful that this could be done. See if you can get the tire un-inflated in the same space, my 1991 Camaro came from the factory with an un-inflated spare, and a can of what ...


5

Unless the lenses themselves are badly damaged, I would try to polish them up first. You can buy kits with most of the necessary polishes etc from a lot of detailing supply companies- the one I have experience with is the Meguiar's kit that comes with plastic polish and a polishing "mop" for use in your drill. You'll also need a roll of blue painter's tape ...


5

You don't have the air inlet selection lever set to recirculate, do you?


5

Subaru engines very rarely blow up. As someone who has owned many and raced a few, and been a member of various Subaru owner forums, I know of some that had problems, but it was almost never the engine. Early Subarus had clutches that were a bit under-engineered, so typically they would be replaced at 75,000 miles, and you could kill brakes with a ...


5

Pending code? The user manual for your device says it should say "PD" for pending codes, so maybe not. "P0130 P" isn't a valid DTC for your vehicle so pending code is really all that makes sense. More specific to your model P0130 is front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean) Possible causes: Open wire to O2 Sensor Short to ground in O2 ...


5

No, you've got everything you'll need. A head gasket replacement isn't a job that requires lots of specialist equipment. It's mainly a set of wrenches (including a torque wrench) and something to scrape the old gasket off. But it's a long and tedious job. And I can't stress that last bit enough, especially if it's the first time you do it. If you want to ...


5

Does anyone have a definitive answer as to which option I should choose? I do: you need matching tires. That said, it's your car and you have to make the decision. I'd tend to replace all four. @Paulster2 also makes a good point that you could shave down a new one to match. Let's start by looking at one of the most useful paragraphs from the ...


5

2mm of friction material is not much. I would suggest you change the pads as they have. They may last a bit longer, but at what point are they going to go metal-on-metal and greatly reduce your stopping ability? At any point, the last little bit may flake off and cause this situation. It could run for 5000 miles or it could last 5 miles? Are you willing to ...


5

I had a situation like this many years ago: my 87 Mustang would make squeaking brake disk noises from one of the front wheels when the wheels were very close to straight ahead. When I turned the steering wheel, the noise would sometimes stop. This was eventually diagnosed as a brake disk that was very slightly warped. Your car is getting older now (full ...


5

The other day while I was searching for information on electronic relays, I ran across this solution to your problem: (I found it on this site.) Here is the write up which goes along with it, which I find pretty cool: This is a clever little circuit involving two relays and a momentary switch and is more a of a 'logic' circuit than one used to switch ...


5

If you really want a no-install option, and even @paulster2 answer seems like work then why not use old school locks like gear/steering locks? Or better, this -


5

I'm assuming no one here answering has driven a Subaru manual transmission before or long enough. I'm fairly certain there is nothing wrong with your synchros or transmission. Subaru's are generally very hard to shift into first while in motion. I daily-drive a 2011 WRX and and the first gear has always been like that, even when it was brand new. I have ...


5

Actually running rich is less dangerous than running lean. I don't know specifically about Subaru, but in general, running lean can cause detonation more easily. And yes, while 14.7:1 is the stoichiometric ratio deemed as perfect for an air fuel mixture, running rich has the big advantage of reducing the chances of pre-ignition or pinging. In a turbo car, ...


5

In terms of towing, in reality, all you need is enough torque to get over initial resistance, as rolling resistance is much lower. This is why you get people who can tow a bus, or a jumbo jet, for example, so absolute power isn't the be-all and end-all. As I wrote in my comment, the flat-4 boxer engine is a good one for pulling, as it does give smooth ...


4

Simple answer that all the forums seem to agree on, and that my garage also approves is that you will get better airflow to the manifold, however unless you also adjust your ECU, and potentially replace your Mass Airflow Sensor (depending on exactly what you are changing in the airflow path) then you may have problems. I had the full Prodrive Performance ...


4

There's an excellent Subaru parts catalog online. I think this is the drawing you want. I'm not sure what you mean by "front" bolt, though -- isn't one directly above the other?


4

One way to check the struts is to jounce the vehicle. Push down hard and release quickly on the bumpers and see how many times the vehicle bounces. It should be no more than 1.5 times, more than that and the struts are bad.



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