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11

Most of the time a ground loop is the cause of this problem. This problem is common especially if your stereos speakers are amplified, and can be fixed my making sure that your stereo unit and/or amplifier have a good ground connection. This can be done by either finding a more direct ground connection to the cars frame, sanding the area around your ground ...


7

Things you will need: Head unit Steering wheel audio control adapter compatible with the head unit. Example for your truck Dash kit. It allows for the radio to fit in the non-standard opening.Link to kits Factory system adapter. Allows you to plug in the head unit harness into the factory one and keep the current speaker system in place without splicing in....


6

For anyone who has similar issues I had a similar issue however I don't think it was exactly same. I tried the steps in the accepted answer with no success. Research on my own I tried different phones and noticed that some would have the static at low volumes and other would not. I looked online and sometimes the phone can cause this to happen. How I ...


6

You need to test with a Digital Multi Meter (DMM) because there is no way we can help you diagnose an issue. I would: Remove the dash and test at the harness (picture below of a headunit disconnected from a dash). Also, when the headunit is removed look for any burns or if the headunit has a blown fuse. If the back of the headunit has a burn mark it can ...


5

You might want to try if your メニュー option (Menu) has a 設定 (Settings) option and inside there, a 言語 (Language) option. If it does, then most likely you can switch between the default 日本語 (Japanese) and 英語 (English). If you don't find it there but you own the car, it could be a matter of researching what Pioneer unit you have and get an update, but chances ...


5

It looks to be the connector to the external DSP, pictured below the stereo here. Specifically, the second and fourth ports from the left. The stereo should have included two 20' cables for these. For posterity, I derived the model to be Kenwood Excelon KVT-915DVD


4

Based on the details you have provided, your system is as follows: 4 Ohm coaxial speakers rated at 60w RMS (4) 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at approximately 400w RMS SVC (1) Your options include those you have mentioned which are common: A single 5 channel amp 4 channel amp + monoblock amp Having a separate amp for the mids/highs and lows allows you to have ...


4

Your car Audio should work well in your garage .Mine has been running for 17 years now .The 12 V DC power supply needs to be rated for the job as others have commented .If you use a switchmode power supply which is more common these days you may get noisey radio reception due to the crud that these supplies put out .Placing the Antenna on the roof will ...


4

The head unit will supply enough power to the stock speakers. You will not need to amplify the signal. Doing so will likely blow the speakers. If you replace your stock speakers with higher wattage speakers, you may need an amp with the channels to power these. A one or two channel (bridgeable) amp is sufficient for the subwoofer(s). When I had a system, 2-...


3

So you want to keep the factory amp? I wouldn't suggest that. I'd recommend getting rid of the factory amp altogether, they're usually not the best, and it would be difficult - if not impossible - for them to work together. I google'd for a quick sanity check and I'll post a snippet from WikiAnswers: I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a ...


3

There is no search feature on the 2005 BMW 320D Touring OEM stereo. As well, when selecting a playlist you cannot browse individual songs as you can if you select songs and browse through them.


3

are you running an amplifies for the subs? if yes are you using a capacitor in line with the power to the amp and have you check the voltage to the amps signal on wire? As the deck also receives power from a direct source of the battery to retain memory. the deck could be damaged (possibly also directly affected by moisture) and unless you are ...


2

When converting the 12V DC from your battery to whatever voltage the inverter puts out, there are conversion steps internally to AC and back through switching the voltage. The switching circuit frequency is probably sensitive to the voltage, and as this varies (can be from 11 to even 15v in some cars) that could change the speed of the switching stage.


2

Finally managed to solve this problem. There were two, different 4-digit codes: one on the back of the manual, and another on a separate card. The 4-digit code on the card was the correct one for the radio.


2

I believe it is fairly common place with aftermarket stereo systems. Look at this example from Crutchfield: I don't know much about them, other than that they exist. They do not in anyway modify your steering, just add a way to access controls at your fingertips.


2

If you bought the car and have the window sticker, all of the options will be listed on the sticker. If you don't have your window sticker anymore (usually only stupidly anal people like me would keep it), take your VIN down to your Hyundai dealership and ask them to see what options came on it. They should store all of that stuff in their databases (most ...


2

There are a couple of plugs in the back of the MK2 Seat Ibiza's radio that will easily allow you to connect it to your stock system. This will require some splicing of the wires, but definitely shouldn't be too difficult to manage. There is a power plug and a speaker plug. Make sure you're splicing into the correct one, or you could damage the system. The ...


2

My best guess would be that the surge blew the inline fuse in the wiring on the back of the stereo itself. You will need to remove the stereo and the fuse should be on the positive wire (usually a red wire). Its probably spring loaded push the ends together to turn the case and open it.


2

If you are talking about this: It appears to be a captured bolt ... you won't get the bolt itself out by itself. Look on the back side for a nut to take off, then the whole thing should come out. The hole just below it and the thing protruding through it appear to be an alignment nib.


2

So I was able to find a diagram of the 14 Fusion/MKZ and it's for the base system all the up through the SONY in the Titanium and the THX system available in the Lincoln. Here is the link for anyone who may want it in the future (and hopefully it doesn't die on anyone before they can use it! 2014 Fusion Audio Wiring Diagram


2

This post seems to suggest that no Honda supports this function and that their inbuilt clocks only provide AM/PM display.


1

Faceplates are usually not interchangeable between models, however, I have heard the odd case of people doing this with Pioneer decks. While the new faceplate may fit in your Alpine head unit, all of the functions may not work correctly. The pins on the faceplate would have to match exactly with those on the head unit and thus the manufacturer would have ...


1

Just to post a follow up, the adaptor for both got the job done :) my kenwood stereo now fits perfectly and works like a charm.


1

As supplied the Kenwood unit will have included a loom the same as this one (from your question). If the unit no longer had this loom with it, I'm afraid you will need to buy another. The end which fits in the stereo is Kenwood specific but the other end (that plugs into the car) is an ISO standard connector. Sadly the ISO standard does not include pins ...


1

There was one wire that could be connected or disconnected from the device, and it had been left connected as default and this caused the not shutting down problem and the device was constantly on. When I disconnected that cable, the problem disappeared, problem solved.


1

Generically, in almost every aftermarket head unit install, you'll need two adapters to make it look and work correctly easily. First, you'll need an adapter which functions as a face plate. This provides coverage for areas which the stereo itself does not cover. Second, You'll need an adapter to more easily get the wiring from the head unit to work with ...


1

The answer has to do with the available power supply. I'm sorry if the answer becomes too technical. A head unit uses the voltage supplied by the car, for the sake of argument lets say 12v. The head unit then turns that supply into a split supply (plus and minus 12V) because that is what speakers need to make sound. The maximum power to the speaker then is ...


1

My guess is it's fried. When you hook two batteries up in series (as you did), the resulting voltage is the sum of the battery voltages, so for a few seconds you had a 24V electrical system. I'm surprised the ECU didn't fall over as well, but perhaps it's better protected. Have you tried entering the unlock code? In my Audi, after I unhook the battery (or ...


1

Sounds like no amplification. I don't know hyundai and all but I had a similar problem with my volvo, they had a separate amp box that you had to have a special aftermarket harness to wire to to kick in the amp. Otherwise all you got was very faint tinny, no bass sound.


1

This may be because your speakers are wired out-of-phase ("+" to "+" on one speaker, and "+" to "-" on another. When this happens, the sound "cancels each other out" to some extent. To test this, adjust the fader and balance to isolate a single speaker (say, the front-left speaker) and see if the apparent volume increases.



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