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7

tl;dr: Steering feedback means different things to different people. Ultimately, however, it's about using the steering wheel as both an input and an output device. At a very high level, the concept of steering feedback has to do with the user interface of the car. If we restrict the discussion to just the wheel in front of you, it's easy to imagine that ...


7

What you are describing is called bump steer. This is caused by a toe change when the suspension travels vertically. Common Causes include Incorrect tie rod height or lenght steering rack that is not mounted parallel to the datum plane. bent steering parts structural damage to the vehicle I'd start by checking the mounting of the steering rack since ...


4

The movement of the steering as you hit a bump is called bump steer, but this has nothing to do with what the beginning of your question is about. As you turn the wheel (you turning it, not bump steer), the geometry of the steering components are such that the inner tire (which ever it may be) will turn tighter than the outer wheel. It is this way because ...


4

First of all that is the job of the shop where you did the alignment, not just the wheels they should also check if the steering is aligned with the position of the wheel (they are entitled to do so). Solution: You can definately take it to the station back and show them the problem , there is a good chance that the engineer might have forgotten to do ...


3

No, total toe is what matters, as long as your steering wheel is straight when you are riding down the road. Basically when those readings were taken the steering wheel may not have been pointing straight ahead. If the tech didn't still have the steering wheel locked down and the steering wheel turned slightly it would cause those readings. Another possible ...


3

This is called "cramping" the steering and it is bad for the pump and for the steering rack. What you are doing is forcing the system to try and push the steering components further than what they are meant to go. This causes over pressure on the pump (you may hear a slight squeal sound of the belt as the pump momentarily stalls), and it creates a bind in ...


3

The most likely cause is that broken mount - your chassis will be flexing, especially in a 30 year old van, so get that fixed first. There could be various other causes as well (bearings, suspension arms, stub axles etc) but you need to get to a solid platform first before trying to diagnose any further.


3

Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration. If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only ...


2

It's your motor mounts. I've been through 2 sets of stock, while waiting for aftermarket billet aluminum, and can say with certainty that you need to replace those motor mounts. The right front wheel is taking a beating from engine lash, and all fours will show a really gnarly tread wear pattern, meanwhile, so rotate those tires as often as possible. If ...


2

You need to make some modifications to your cad drawing so it is in line with what the Ackerman Theory is stating. I'm sure once you get things correct in your drawing, you'll find it will work just fine. I've added some annotations to this image to help you understand where you are going wrong with your example. First, do you notice that on your ...


2

Disconnecting battery is not the ultimate way to erase you ACU issue. Anyway, if the errors of your car should disappear that way, then you have a continuous problem. I suggest the steering wheel slip ring is broken. Check the error code fist. Maybe there is something else and DONT TRY TO FIX the airbag stuff BY YOUR OWN.


2

Your suspension is bent up and is a big mess. Goto a mechanic and get an estimate before it flies apart and injures you or innocent bystanders. I can see a wheel shaking, off camber and out of alignment while you drive down the road. This is not trivial. Imagine only one of your front brakes working well and you have to panic stop for a crosswalk filled ...


2

Apparently this particular model suffers from this issue in cold climates. This is due to the factory o-ring failing to provide a good seal and thus allowing air to enter the Power Steering Pump Inlet. The fix is to replace the o-ring. A step by step guide to this is provided in this link


2

It's possible the belts inside one of the tires is broken. With brand new tires, likely a manufacturing defect. A broken belt will make the car feel as you describe, and can be mistaken for the tires being out of balance. I've had this happen before. In my case, the tire was old and I hit too many potholes. One of the unique symptoms I remember is the ...


2

It sounds as though one of your tires may have a slipped belt. This is pretty hard to diagnose because there isn't any real physical manifestation of it except for one of more of your tires being out of round. I don't believe this shows up when doing the balancing because it's more of a rolling thing. You can, however, rotate the tires front to back and see ...


2

My first suggestion was going to be the wheel bearing. It still might be one of the rear bearings. I had this problem with my '06 Pontiac and the wheel hub (including bearing) was surprisingly cheap and easy to replace. You should be able to inspect the rear bearings much the same way as the front bearings. My second suggestion would be the CV joints. The ...


1

Edmunds is showing it as a constant ratio (14.7:1). Steering type as: Electric-assist, speed-proportional, rack-and-pinion power steering Variable ratio steering is not that common. If it had it, I'm sure it would appear all over the place.


1

OEM fluid is almost never required - you can almost find an aftermarket fluid meeting the same spec. Look on the fluid and look for "Meets GM Spec 89201184" or something simmilar. As to what you need specifically: The Enclave requires either Dexron VI or equivalent or GM 89021184 or equivalent fluid. It depends on the year it was built. Amsoil has a lookup ...


1

If Your Wheels are aligned and brakes are good then there are a few things you need to check. Check needle bearings. Check if power steering is normal. Check if the lug nuts on the wheels are proper. Check your camber alignment. I googled and it seems this vibration is a frequnt problem on the F150. Usually it is the U-Joints which give way causing the ...


1

Judging from the comments section on this YouTube video, it seems to be a common issue related to the electric power steering motor. It is likely that there will be a technical service bulletin issued as to what the recommended course of action is.


1

Take it to a tire place and let them ask you questions. There's not enough info here to answer. It could be tires out of balance, steering dampener issues, loose linkages, etc. This one cannot be diagnosed online probably, but the most likely thing on a car that new is that your wheels are out of balance - a cheap and easy thing for a tire place to ...


1

I took this back to O'Reilly and they took it back b/c it wasn't an "exact" fit for the part I was replacing, even though their computers said it was. They ordered me a pricier (by about 100%) part that actually had the correct configuration. I installed the pricier one, and it's been working fine since.


1

The Ackermann Theory states the meaning of your first drawing, ie that a line drawn through the center line of the track and the steering track rod end would pass through the centre of the rear axle. To achieve this with your with CAD programme you will need to include camber, caster and the suspensions included angle to facilitate this.


1

As you have a serious brake fault you will need to have the vehicle lifted to a garage for repair. A complete brake inspection and overhaul would be required, especially as you do not have a complete history of the vehicle having recently acquired it. Next step will be replacement of any bent wheels and possibly damaged tyres. This vehicle will also need an ...


1

I didn't see you list anything about brake components... Check the brake rotor as they are common sources of steering wheel vibration, even when not damaged. If you hit a curb then there's a chance the rotor was warped.


1

Sounds like the clutch portion of your automatic transmission has too much friction. Happens with worn plates and burnt fluid. Often time a transmission service where they replace fluid and filter wont fix this because there can still be alot of the older sludge. In my 98 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 I have this same issue. I dumped a can of sea foam trans ...


1

Check the belt. On my 87 Mazda pickup the power steering belt is loose and it makes that sort of sound in exactly that same slow speed turning situation.



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