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6

I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. ...


4

The boot kit alone isn't going to be enough to overhaul the joint - you might need parts of the actual CV joint if the boots have been open to the elements long enough for dirt to get in there and turn the grease into grinding paste. If you're at that stage, buy an overhauled axle shaft.


4

When the steering wheel is at the end of its travel (completely left/right) it is normal that the power steering pump starts making some extra noise At max travel, the steering pump will produce its maximum pressure and will have to work the hardest. This will create a "hissing" type noise. When the fluid level is low, then you will hear the pump moaning ...


4

Check the power steering belt. If the belt is slipping, it would probably squeal horribly, but it might not if it's really loose. It could also have broken, in which case there would be no sound. If the belt isn't turning the power steering pump, then you won't have any power steering.


3

Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration. If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only ...


3

I would use some anti-seize on the threads then tighten it to torque spec. If it doesn't line up then I would tighten it until it does. This is just what I would do. If it is a weak bolt or a really bad place for the threads to strip then I would just loosen it until it lines up. Once the cotter pin is in it shouldn't go anywhere anyways.


3

The most likely cause is that broken mount - your chassis will be flexing, especially in a 30 year old van, so get that fixed first. There could be various other causes as well (bearings, suspension arms, stub axles etc) but you need to get to a solid platform first before trying to diagnose any further.


3

Depending on the age of the car you may be experiencing "steering rack morning sickness". If it gets better as the car warms up you most likely have a steering rack that is on its' way out. This is a common first symptom of rack failure. Generally it occurs after the car has sat for an extended period like overnight. It will get gradually take longer and ...


3

The alignment goes out after a hit due to bending of components. There are three main things that are looked at during an alignment, and a couple of secondary measurements. I will only discuss the main three, which are camber, caster, and toe. The toe and camber are usually the ones that are adjusted when you get your alignment, as the caster is normally set ...


3

Is the noise coming from the steering itself, or from the tyres? i.e does it make the noise as you are turning the steering wheel, or does it still do it as you hold the wheel steady during the turn? If it is the latter (the "hollywood tyre squeal" effect), that is quite common, particularly on the smooth concrete you tend to find in multi-story car parks. ...


2

One can never monitor the axle boots frequently enough. If you catch the boot leaking grease before it splits, the $10 solution will work. If it is knocking and giving you trouble before you notice the direct opening to road grit, water and everything else, @Timo has the right solution.


2

The input shaft bearing on the transmission is suspect. That is turning anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed. When you press the clutch the input shaft stops turning. This answer is assuming, based on your question that the noise is constant anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed in. The only time the ...


2

The rubber to rubber sound may be from the tires rubbing on the frame. This is more likely if the wheels and tires are not the stock size. Crank the wheels to the left until it stops. Look into the wheel well and see if you can see black marks on the frame. Do the same on the right side. Place both hands on the right front fender and push down several times. ...


2

I'd suspect worn tie rod ends. Grab hold of one and give it a twist and see if there's any play. If it's not too worn, you may be able to grease it and avoid replacement. You should also check your power steering fluid, but if that's low I'd expect it would creak on both left and right turns.


2

Creaks, groans and other noises while turning can be a signal of something serious. If you are unsure of how to check ball joints the usual method is to raise the car by the lower control arm. Place a large prybar (think 3 ft crowbar) under the tire and rapidly pry the tire up. You are checking for movement between the steering knuckle and the lower ...


2

maybe you should try to lubricate the rack and pinion and the base on which the steering system is mounted


2

Disconnecting battery is not the ultimate way to erase you ACU issue. Anyway, if the errors of your car should disappear that way, then you have a continuous problem. I suggest the steering wheel slip ring is broken. Check the error code fist. Maybe there is something else and DONT TRY TO FIX the airbag stuff BY YOUR OWN.


2

First stop driving it, it is potentially an accident waiting to happen. Any shaking, banging, wobbling etc should be addressed immediately. A couple of things come to mind. A bad wheel bearing can cause all the symptoms you describe along with an intermittent ABS light if the bearing has enough play in it (the hub wiggles enough to move the rotor away from ...


2

I always prefer to use a scissor-type ball joint separator, like this one rather than a fork-type one, if it'll fit. They're less likely to cause damage to other parts (and to the joints themselves, but that doesn't matter if you're replacing them. What's stopping you buying a fork-type one? They're incredibly cheap (the above site has them for £5, so less ...


2

I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure. The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.


1

It's your motor mounts. I've been through 2 sets of stock, while waiting for aftermarket billet aluminum, and can say with certainty that you need to replace those motor mounts. The right front wheel is taking a beating from engine lash, and all fours will show a really gnarly tread wear pattern, meanwhile, so rotate those tires as often as possible. If ...


1

I would check the ball joints and tierod ends and control arm bushings. I have seen a lot of bad balljoints knock when the wheels hit the stops. I have also seen bad control arm bushings knock with acceleration and braking. Don't let it go for long without having it checked. If a ball joint or tierod separates you will loose control and your ability to ...


1

Sounds like it could be something wrong with your steering pump. Especially if this mostly happens when you have just started the car (cold engine) and are driving very slowly. Edit: if you have a steering fluid leak, this could be causing the steering pump to grind / knock. Try checking your steering fluid level and fill it up if it's running low. Then ...


1

Could also be upper or lower control arms from the sounds of it, before this started to happen did you hear or notice anything else? maybe a popping sound around corners? Bearings will make noise when going around a corner if they are wearing out. Also I know some Preludes from this era had 4 wheel steering, does yours have this option? If so this ...


1

Found these specs here: http://www.fixya.com/cars/t14840019-toe_in_specs_2005_cobalt It is an 2005 so it might not be perfectly the same as a 2008, but the specs have 0.20 as correct with a tolerance of 0.20 either direction. That makes me think you are right on spec and do not need an alignment. KEY: ± = plus or minus; C/t = Cross Tolerances; Toe T= ...


1

After a while, steering bearings can become filled with grit and grime, causing steering to feel not so smooth. Here are the steps to cleaning and greasing your steering bearings so that steering feels smooth and fluid again. Disassembly - In order to keep up with bolts, hand tighten bolts back in their respective receptor holes after removing components. ...


1

It's probably just the new motor mounts. If the new motor mounts are stiffer you will get more chassis vibration. I am a little surprised that shifting to neutral effects the vibration though. Is it automatic? Did they have to drop your transmission cross member or any drive shafts during the service. If so it could be something to do with that.


1

Wanted to post as comment, but I do not have enough rep. Sounds like power steering failure. I had a belt that snapped on my '92-98 Corolla and had to drive through two seasons without power steering. At a still, and on reverse speeds, the steering was pretty hard to turn, however as soon as the car moved forward, turning the wheel was a breeze. High RPMs ...


1

I'm guessing it's mostly due to wear on various joints that control the exact angle of the suspension. Doesn't take much wear on a joint all the way at the end of an arm to cause a measurable angular change on the other end. Obviously a severe curb hit will cause bending to knock the alignment out too... I've found that, barring curb hits, it's not much ...


1

I have had this problem with my old Mazda 626. Usually occurred in roundabouts or slow speed driving in parking lots. In my case it was the driving knots + something else in the steering that needed to be greased up. I even changed them completely since they where old and worn out.



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