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7

Check the power steering belt. If the belt is slipping, it would probably squeal horribly, but it might not if it's really loose. It could also have broken, in which case there would be no sound. If the belt isn't turning the power steering pump, then you won't have any power steering.


7

tl;dr: Steering feedback means different things to different people. Ultimately, however, it's about using the steering wheel as both an input and an output device. At a very high level, the concept of steering feedback has to do with the user interface of the car. If we restrict the discussion to just the wheel in front of you, it's easy to imagine that ...


7

What you are describing is called bump steer. This is caused by a toe change when the suspension travels vertically. Common Causes include Incorrect tie rod height or lenght steering rack that is not mounted parallel to the datum plane. bent steering parts structural damage to the vehicle I'd start by checking the mounting of the steering rack since ...


6

I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. ...


6

Found it was because a bolt holding the steering rack in place had sheared. Very dangerous and glad I decided to visit a mechanic!


4

The boot kit alone isn't going to be enough to overhaul the joint - you might need parts of the actual CV joint if the boots have been open to the elements long enough for dirt to get in there and turn the grease into grinding paste. If you're at that stage, buy an overhauled axle shaft.


4

Is the noise coming from the steering itself, or from the tyres? i.e does it make the noise as you are turning the steering wheel, or does it still do it as you hold the wheel steady during the turn? If it is the latter (the "hollywood tyre squeal" effect), that is quite common, particularly on the smooth concrete you tend to find in multi-story car parks. ...


4

When the steering wheel is at the end of its travel (completely left/right) it is normal that the power steering pump starts making some extra noise At max travel, the steering pump will produce its maximum pressure and will have to work the hardest. This will create a "hissing" type noise. When the fluid level is low, then you will hear the pump moaning ...


4

First of all that is the job of the shop where you did the alignment, not just the wheels they should also check if the steering is aligned with the position of the wheel (they are entitled to do so). Solution: You can definately take it to the station back and show them the problem , there is a good chance that the engineer might have forgotten to do ...


4

The movement of the steering as you hit a bump is called bump steer, but this has nothing to do with what the beginning of your question is about. As you turn the wheel (you turning it, not bump steer), the geometry of the steering components are such that the inner tire (which ever it may be) will turn tighter than the outer wheel. It is this way because ...


4

It sounds to me like the previous owner suspected an outer CV joint (which was my first thought when you described the problem) and changing it didn't fix the issue. I would double check that the outer CV joints look new and there is a good chance the problem could relate to one of the inner CV joints. Diagnosing the problem will likely be a case of ...


3

I would use some anti-seize on the threads then tighten it to torque spec. If it doesn't line up then I would tighten it until it does. This is just what I would do. If it is a weak bolt or a really bad place for the threads to strip then I would just loosen it until it lines up. Once the cotter pin is in it shouldn't go anywhere anyways.


3

Depending on the age of the car you may be experiencing "steering rack morning sickness". If it gets better as the car warms up you most likely have a steering rack that is on its' way out. This is a common first symptom of rack failure. Generally it occurs after the car has sat for an extended period like overnight. It will get gradually take longer and ...


3

The alignment goes out after a hit due to bending of components. There are three main things that are looked at during an alignment, and a couple of secondary measurements. I will only discuss the main three, which are camber, caster, and toe. The toe and camber are usually the ones that are adjusted when you get your alignment, as the caster is normally set ...


3

Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration. If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only ...


3

The most likely cause is that broken mount - your chassis will be flexing, especially in a 30 year old van, so get that fixed first. There could be various other causes as well (bearings, suspension arms, stub axles etc) but you need to get to a solid platform first before trying to diagnose any further.


3

This is called "cramping" the steering and it is bad for the pump and for the steering rack. What you are doing is forcing the system to try and push the steering components further than what they are meant to go. This causes over pressure on the pump (you may hear a slight squeal sound of the belt as the pump momentarily stalls), and it creates a bind in ...


3

No, total toe is what matters, as long as your steering wheel is straight when you are riding down the road. Basically when those readings were taken the steering wheel may not have been pointing straight ahead. If the tech didn't still have the steering wheel locked down and the steering wheel turned slightly it would cause those readings. Another possible ...


2

One can never monitor the axle boots frequently enough. If you catch the boot leaking grease before it splits, the $10 solution will work. If it is knocking and giving you trouble before you notice the direct opening to road grit, water and everything else, @Timo has the right solution.


2

The input shaft bearing on the transmission is suspect. That is turning anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed. When you press the clutch the input shaft stops turning. This answer is assuming, based on your question that the noise is constant anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed in. The only time the ...


2

The rubber to rubber sound may be from the tires rubbing on the frame. This is more likely if the wheels and tires are not the stock size. Crank the wheels to the left until it stops. Look into the wheel well and see if you can see black marks on the frame. Do the same on the right side. Place both hands on the right front fender and push down several times. ...


2

I'd suspect worn tie rod ends. Grab hold of one and give it a twist and see if there's any play. If it's not too worn, you may be able to grease it and avoid replacement. You should also check your power steering fluid, but if that's low I'd expect it would creak on both left and right turns.


2

Creaks, groans and other noises while turning can be a signal of something serious. If you are unsure of how to check ball joints the usual method is to raise the car by the lower control arm. Place a large prybar (think 3 ft crowbar) under the tire and rapidly pry the tire up. You are checking for movement between the steering knuckle and the lower ...


2

maybe you should try to lubricate the rack and pinion and the base on which the steering system is mounted


2

First stop driving it, it is potentially an accident waiting to happen. Any shaking, banging, wobbling etc should be addressed immediately. A couple of things come to mind. A bad wheel bearing can cause all the symptoms you describe along with an intermittent ABS light if the bearing has enough play in it (the hub wiggles enough to move the rotor away from ...


2

I always prefer to use a scissor-type ball joint separator, like this one rather than a fork-type one, if it'll fit. They're less likely to cause damage to other parts (and to the joints themselves, but that doesn't matter if you're replacing them. What's stopping you buying a fork-type one? They're incredibly cheap (the above site has them for £5, so less ...


2

I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure. The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.


2

It's your motor mounts. I've been through 2 sets of stock, while waiting for aftermarket billet aluminum, and can say with certainty that you need to replace those motor mounts. The right front wheel is taking a beating from engine lash, and all fours will show a really gnarly tread wear pattern, meanwhile, so rotate those tires as often as possible. If ...


2

Disconnecting battery is not the ultimate way to erase you ACU issue. Anyway, if the errors of your car should disappear that way, then you have a continuous problem. I suggest the steering wheel slip ring is broken. Check the error code fist. Maybe there is something else and DONT TRY TO FIX the airbag stuff BY YOUR OWN.


2

You need to make some modifications to your cad drawing so it is in line with what the Ackerman Theory is stating. I'm sure once you get things correct in your drawing, you'll find it will work just fine. I've added some annotations to this image to help you understand where you are going wrong with your example. First, do you notice that on your ...



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