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7

Issues involving steering wheel vibrations problems usually are most noticeable at one or two narrow speed ranges (5-10mph and 60-70mph), and will decrease significantly, and in some cases, even disappear outside of these ranges. The amount of vibration caused by worn tires will often be seen over a broader speed range if the tire is worn more. The severity ...


5

There are several things that can cause this - the simplest being the road itself! If you are on a cambered road, the car will want to pull towards the edge of the road... Presuming it's a stronger pull than that, your next suspect is the tracking (wheel alignment) - if this is out it will cause it to pull. Most decent tyre fitters will be able to check ...


5

Vibration felt in the steering wheel is usually caused by the front tires out of balance. That's the first place to look, other possibilities include: broken belt in the tire, out of round tire, a bent rim, a bent or out of round hub, wheel bearings. One of the things you can do to help narrow it down would be to rotate the tires, if the vibration in the ...


5

I thought I'd mention this since others haven't. Are they aftermarket wheels? If so, do they have hub-centric rings and did you make sure all the hub-centric rings were on the wheels before installing them on the car? If you're missing a hub ring, it's possible the wheel isn't perfectly centered. The wobble is sometimes very slight and sometimes great, ...


4

You may be experiencing torque steer. Since you have Front Wheel Drive (FWD) your drive wheels and your steering wheels are the same. Sometimes under load if traction is uneven (such as in a corner your car is shifting its weight to one side and so will have more traction on the left or right tires) the power being sent to the wheels can become uneven, ...


3

Is it actually a full-out wobble, or just a really hard and fast shake? A wobble that throws your wheel left and right is a fairly big issue... Normally to do with the tightening of the lug-nuts. A rapid shake could be something as small as needing a balance on one or more wheels (weights can sometimes fall off, due to many factors... Dropping the tire too ...


3

if the shake becomes worse when you apply the brake, then I'd agree with the garage. The rotors are wearable items and as they get older, they often develop a warp (or to be more precise according to some schools of thoughts, uneven build up of brake pad material). How many miles are on those rotors? Also depends on your driving patterns, my rotors ...


2

Talking a look at the article some of the items you can check yourself, for example the ball joints. Other balancing and alignment actions require special equipment. I would suggesting taking that list and checking everything you are able to on your own first. Your Hayne's Manual should walk you through steps to check the suspension parts.


2

If it resembles a repetitive knocking or loud clicking noise, it's probably your CV joint.


2

I had a bad vibration when cruising on highway, I did an alignment and changed my wheels bearing. The vibration was mostly gone but I got a "death wobble", which is a loud noise coming from the front at high speed. I changed my tie rod ends and steering damper, redone an alignment and now everything is fine. I'll do what Larry suggest first, this are the ...


2

Noise from the strain of the power steering pump can cavitate (or 'reverberate' is probably more accurate) through lines and even to the steering wheel itself. Check fluid levels, and pump condition. If it all checks out it may just be normal. Typically bearings will not seize when they are already in motion. They can fail catastrophically, but it is ...


2

I believe it is fairly common place with aftermarket stereo systems. Look at this example from Crutchfield: I don't know much about them, other than that they exist. They do not in anyway modify your steering, just add a way to access controls at your fingertips.


2

The purpose of turning the wheel one turn is to put the wheels at a cant (other than straight). This is especially important on standard shift vehicles so it cannot just be put into neutral and moved. It just gives one more weapon in the arsenal against car thieves. The action of applying the club should be, before you turn the ignition off, turn the ...


1

The box marked in green is indeed the timing belt top cover. The belt you have marked with red arrows is the serpentine belt. The wheelie thing would be the serpentine belt tensioner. On your desription you have a problem with anything driven by the serpentine belt, and proberbly caused it to shred. Each item needs to be checked individually,


1

Your mechanic did not steer you wrong (pun intended). The area with the red arrows is actually your drive or serpentine belt, not your timing belt. What he replaced (besides the belt) was either an idler or tensioner pulley, which probably caused the belt's demise in the first place. The timing belt should be located under the cover which you have circled in ...


1

Your vehicle should be checked over by a Mercedes mechanic. The front suspension and the rear suspension are both adjustable and can also be susceptable to damage, bushes, tie rods, ball joints, wheel rims, tyres. In many instances the correct service tools are required to carry out an effective repair or adjustment. There are several versions of the 2009 ...


1

It seems your multifunction switch is probably bad. It should be fairly easy to pull this switch to inspect it. I found these instructions to gain access: The turn signal canceling is part of the function of the 'multifunction switch'. This is a switch mounted on the steering column by 2 screws. Once you take the covers off, you can see the ...


1

The idea of turning the wheel is to have the wheels turned to prevent movement of the car. After you park, turn the wheel prior to shutting off the car. I would suggest turning them towards the curb. If the ignition is removed by the thief the wheel will be unlocked. If the wheels were straight he would be able to drive the car albeit only in a straight ...


1

It sounds like your car already has a built-in steering wheel lock so The Club would have no benefit other than a visual deterrent and in that case it wouldn't matter how you put it on


1

Damaged tires (internal belts) or excessively worn tires are usually the main problem if your tires have been balanced properly and you have good rims. I had to replace the king pins on my 4x4 and set the alignment and replace the tires because of the uneven severe wear that was caused by the worn out king pins. The severe wear of the tires caused major ...


1

Just FYI: a worn wheel bearing will make an irritating high-pitched whining noise. If you ignore that, it will start making a horrible grinding noise, accompanied by a slight vibration on the steering wheel. If you don't hear anything, it's probably not the bearing. What you can do: 1. Check for bald spots on the front wheels. 2. Have your shocks tested. Or ...


1

Are you sure about the location of the sound? It might be a loose or worn power steering belt that is slipping when the power steering pump is put under load.


1

It depends. However, most cars turn the 2 wheels at the front. A few turn all 4 (typically the rear steer portion is much smaller angle than front though). Rear only steering is very rare, typically just seen in task specific trucks. As far as learning how to steer properly, practice...


1

I own a 1987 Land Cruiser, the death wobble on these machine can come from a bad aligment, tie-rod ends that need replacement or the steering stabilizer. Basically something is now worn-out and loose. But be aware, changing the stabilizer may just mask any underlying issue, so check everything else before replacing the stabilizer.


1

See if your local Auto Parts store rents a steering wheel puller. I haven't ever done one myself, but I've heard stories of people smacking themselves in the face when trying to pull the steering wheel off by hand. Local stores like AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Murry's, etc often rent tools such as these and often only cost you money if you don't return it within ...


1

The thing to watch out for is the splines on the steering column. The way most aftermarket wheels I have seen works is that the wheel has 6-12 small socket-head bolts in the centre that attach it to a mounting boss, which is splined to fit onto the column. The wheel manufacturers then generally sell different bosses to suit different makes of car - I doubt ...


1

As long as there's no airbag, and no other electrical connections (cruise control, radio, etc) then it should be pretty easy to change as long as you get a replacement designed for the car. You may not have a large-enough socket to get the nut off, but there shouldn't be any other special tools required. I've changed out a few steering wheels in the past ...


1

If it when you reach full-travel on the steering wheel: single "cluck" while stopped -- a worn tie rod end see image for location: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/f9/e5//small/0900c1528018f9e5.jpg a "cluck-cluck-cluck" sound while moving -- a worn CV joint see image for location: ...



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