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Vibration felt in the steering wheel is usually caused by the front tires out of balance. That's the first place to look, other possibilities include: broken belt in the tire, out of round tire, a bent rim, a bent or out of round hub, wheel bearings. One of the things you can do to help narrow it down would be to rotate the tires, if the vibration in the ...

You may be experiencing torque steer. Since you have Front Wheel Drive (FWD) your drive wheels and your steering wheels are the same. Sometimes under load if traction is uneven (such as in a corner your car is shifting its weight to one side and so will have more traction on the left or right tires) the power being sent to the wheels can become uneven, ...

Is it actually a full-out wobble, or just a really hard and fast shake? A wobble that throws your wheel left and right is a fairly big issue... Normally to do with the tightening of the lug-nuts. A rapid shake could be something as small as needing a balance on one or more wheels (weights can sometimes fall off, due to many factors... Dropping the tire too ...

Talking a look at the article some of the items you can check yourself, for example the ball joints. Other balancing and alignment actions require special equipment. I would suggesting taking that list and checking everything you are able to on your own first. Your Hayne's Manual should walk you through steps to check the suspension parts.

if the shake becomes worse when you apply the brake, then I'd agree with the garage. The rotors are wearable items and as they get older, they often develop a warp (or to be more precise according to some schools of thoughts, uneven build up of brake pad material). How many miles are on those rotors? Also depends on your driving patterns, my rotors ...

Noise from the strain of the power steering pump can cavitate (or 'reverberate' is probably more accurate) through lines and even to the steering wheel itself. Check fluid levels, and pump condition. If it all checks out it may just be normal. Typically bearings will not seize when they are already in motion. They can fail catastrophically, but it is ...

I had a bad vibration when cruising on highway, I did an alignment and changed my wheels bearing. The vibration was mostly gone but I got a "death wobble", which is a loud noise coming from the front at high speed. I changed my tie rod ends and steering damper, redone an alignment and now everything is fine. I'll do what Larry suggest first, this are the ...

I own a 1987 Land Cruiser, the death wobble on these machine can come from a bad aligment, tie-rod ends that need replacement or the steering stabilizer. Basically something is now worn-out and loose. But be aware, changing the stabilizer may just mask any underlying issue, so check everything else before replacing the stabilizer.

It depends. However, most cars turn the 2 wheels at the front. A few turn all 4 (typically the rear steer portion is much smaller angle than front though). Rear only steering is very rare, typically just seen in task specific trucks. As far as learning how to steer properly, practice...

I thought I'd mention this since others haven't. Are they aftermarket wheels? If so, do they have hub-centric rings and did you make sure all the hub-centric rings were on the wheels before installing them on the car? If you're missing a hub ring, it's possible the wheel isn't perfectly centered. The wobble is sometimes very slight and sometimes great, ...

See if your local Auto Parts store rents a steering wheel puller. I haven't ever done one myself, but I've heard stories of people smacking themselves in the face when trying to pull the steering wheel off by hand. Local stores like AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Murry's, etc often rent tools such as these and often only cost you money if you don't return it within ...

The thing to watch out for is the splines on the steering column. The way most aftermarket wheels I have seen works is that the wheel has 6-12 small socket-head bolts in the centre that attach it to a mounting boss, which is splined to fit onto the column. The wheel manufacturers then generally sell different bosses to suit different makes of car - I doubt ...

As long as there's no airbag, and no other electrical connections (cruise control, radio, etc) then it should be pretty easy to change as long as you get a replacement designed for the car. You may not have a large-enough socket to get the nut off, but there shouldn't be any other special tools required. I've changed out a few steering wheels in the past ...

If it when you reach full-travel on the steering wheel: single "cluck" while stopped -- a worn tie rod end see image for location: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/f9/e5//small/0900c1528018f9e5.jpg a "cluck-cluck-cluck" sound while moving -- a worn CV joint see image for location: ...