New answers tagged

1

Please stop testing your starter with a screwdriver! You could get hurt. A simple volt-meter or multi-meter is a good investment for a home mechanic. Is your starter cable fused? Check the fuse with your new multi-meter and then you can check the voltage back to the battery negative post. It's possible the earth strap has come off your engine and there's no ...


6

If I had to guess this sounds like a four cylinder engine, with one or even two cylinder's misfiring. Best guess is a problem with either a spark plug wires, or an ignition module. I'm looking at high resolution photos of your engine compartment and its not clear on what type of ignition system you have. Generally there are two types of systems. One has a ...


0

It's an old car.. You can try to check the leads connected to a battery, might help. Or change a battery or do a "jumpstart". Otherwise I'd say something is wrong with wiring. To me it seems a battery issue.


0

Brenda, You could have one of fifty troubles giving you a no start condition. To run, a car needs a control system, and functional electricity. The engine needs spark, fuel, and air in the proper mix. Any defect could cause troubles. But the good news is your car is equipped with a computer system that manages a good portion of these things. It also ...


0

Your car probably has a PATS key (a security feature), which prevents the ignition from starting if an unprogrammed key is used. Sometimes, a good key will go bad, and that's trouble, especially if you don't have a backup key. If you have a backup key, try it. Hopefully, that will start the car. If it doesn't then the starter may be going bad or the ...


0

The click must be a started solenoid, don't think you'd hear a relay solenoid. So it means it is in neutral, and a ECU knows it, and electricity goes to starter solenoid. Only doesn't get to a motor, unless motor end gear is stopping against a flywheel tooth. If your lights on the dash becomes dark or disappears at starting moment, it means you have not ...


0

Make sure you are in Park and the car knows it. I've had this happen to one of my vehicles where the shifter would be in Park, but the car wouldn't see that it's in Park because the shifter was "wobbly" when in Park. The shifter was clicked into the Park position, but it could still move around a little bit and stay in Park. For my vehicle, I need to give ...


0

Crank and/or cam sensor will cause a crank no start scenario. Did you test for spark at the plug to verify it's actually firing? It sounds like it's not if it won't try to run with fuel put directly in the cylinder. This would indicate the sensor not sending the data to the computer to tell it where the cam or crank position is at, which helps determine ...


5

Sounds more like a problem with the ignition switch, possibly some kind of interference with the steering wheel lock. Do you usually park on the street with your wheels turned? If so, maybe try to make sure your wheels are pointed straight before you shut off the car. This should take the binding out of the steering linkage and put less stress on the ...


0

The easiest thing to check is the ignition coil: disconnect it and measure its resistance with a multimeter. You'll want to check your car's manual for exact values, but in general dead coils will have infinite resistance on the secondary winding. If the coil is OK, you'll have to do a full-blown spark test. Note that having a spark plug tester or a set of ...


1

Should start similar to a car. There may be a push button to start, but most trucks don't have that anymore. The knob marked tractor will release the brakes as soon as their pressure builds up to around 90. Drives similar to manual car. Leave the small lever on the shifter in the downward position. Reverse is towards the steering wheel and then straight ...


0

I don't know about the Probe in particular, but I know some cars have a crankshaft position sensor that tells the ECU that the engine is turning over, and they won't turn on the fuel pump if they aren't getting a signal from that sensor. I'd also recommend checking your relays. Since it was an intermittent fault I'd suspect relays before fuses, but fuses can ...


0

I found the reason why it wouldn't turn over, it turns out the clutch safety switch was not being fully depressed when I pressed the pedal down and that was stopping power from getting to the starter. I pressed the switch down manually and it was able to turn over no problem. Being my first time working on an Rx-7 when i found out about the clutch cutoff ...


1

There may be a lead plate weld broken inside the battery. I would try a new battery, or at least determine if the battery is taking a charge before trying anything else. You can measure the OCV "open circuit voltage" of the battery by connecting a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery with the the car completely off. And NO ...


0

I would clean and tighten starter and battery connections. A load test of the starter would be the next thing to do.


1

Start by checking ground terminals coming off your battery. While this may not be the issue I can't tell you how many times I've found bad connection to be an issue with starters on my cars and for years it was something I consistently overlooked. If the connections are too loose or really corroded that can cause a huge resistance spike which will cut the ...


3

You could try unhooking the cable at the handle and then tie a loose knot in it. This may make the cable too short. In that case you could drill a hole in the safety handle bail a little further up. I'm fairly certain it's not adjustable at either end. The proper repair requires replacing the cable. Believe it or not, sears.com has an incredible range ...


2

First off, yes the starter solenoid is attached to the starter motor. And yes from your description it sure sounds like a problem starter. Are you doing this work yourself, or having it done? First have you checked ALL fuses and relays in the system? Do that first. There is likely two different fuse boxes to contend with, one inside the passenger ...


2

Double check everything. If you can power the S terminal on the starter and get the car to start than it's on the other side of the circuit. Pull the relay again and make sure when someone presses the clutch the relay coil is grounded. Check your fuses, the relay should have power on two pins, one that powers the relay coil while cranking and one that ...


0

i would assume that drl is either a relay or a circuit breaker for the running lights . You may have a either a short circuit (which would cause a circuit breaker to open) or a broken or loose cable or wire. Check your battery connections and cables to make sure everything is clean and tight.


3

If the engine is cold, there is no way the combustion chamber is going to get up to 160 degrees C. even when the air is compressed. So your problem is with the fuel system; either the fuel pump, or something in the fuel injection system.


0

Check the grounds and fuses battery could be junk jump the starter from the battery to the starter and if it works change the fuse


4

Make sure to check all of the safety features that were included on the bike. Kickstand up, in neutral, clutch in, kill switch set to run, and key on.


0

She had a mechanic take a look at it - the problem ended out being the camshaft sensor.



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