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1

First, I'd like to try to clarify this whole situation a little. Your car has two keys, correct? An ignition key and an antitheft key that fits a special keyhole in the shifter, which manually permits the shifter to be shifted out of (P)ark without using the ignition key? As you drove home, you noticed a loss of power to the dash lights and power windows, ...


1

It sounds like your ignition switch is bad, and needs to be replaced. This is a common failure on Civics of that age, particularly on higher mileage cars. A replacement switch is around $70 from a local parts store, and can take a couple of hours to replace, depending on experience and familiarity with the portions of the car that need to be removed to ...


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Your vehicles problems lies with the starting circuit. Battery, starter motor and solonoid, cables, power and earth points. A test on the system which is gaining prominance is with a battery/starting testing tool called here in the UK by the name of Midtronics. A fracture internally of the battery can be diagnosed. Some of the cables can be spliced ...


2

The problem probably resides in a connection somewhere in your starting system. I would start by disconnecting at the battery, making sure all connections are clean, then re-securing them so they are good and tight. Move your way back on the cables to ensure all other connections are good in the same manner. While you are moving down the cables, ensure there ...


2

"Maintenance Free" doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. "Maintenance Free" means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate ...


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It will most likely be on the fuel side of things. One item to check would be the ECT (engine cooling temperature sensor). Possibly when you start the engine from cold, the ECT is giving a plausible cold engine temperature. After driving and with the engine now hot, if the ECT is still giving a 'cold temp' reading, the engines ECU will supply a very rich ...


1

The cause of your starting problem is unknown because the vehicle has not been checked-scanned- for it. A program like Torque Pro will offer you the ability to retrieve fault codes with your smart phone, but a code on its own is not the complete answer. The code should be considered as what the vehicles computer thinks is wrong. In very many instances the ...


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You have changed the fuel pressure sensor, and you have a low fuel pressure reading. The fuel pressure sensor reports the fuel pressure in the system. This pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator. You will need to have a fuel pressue test which at idle should be 3.7-3.9 bar. A low reading will point at the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel ...


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It might be the fuel pump. Something you can replace before your fuel pump is the fuel filter. If this becomes clogged, it can give a lower pressure at the fuel rails and could trigger a low fuel pressure code to your ECM. If this doesn't work for you, then I'd check the fuel pump. The easiest way to tell is to put a fuel pressure tester at the fuel rail to ...


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I had that problem. My fuel pump was faulty. Eventually it got worse and worse u til I finally had to replace the fuel pump and sensor and filter. I have a 1993 940 Volvo sedan. Remember that Volvos do not always behave or react to symptoms in the same way that American cars do. Best to go with a mechanic who knows Volvos.


1

Clutch disengages crankshaft movement from the gearbox. Crankshaft and part of the clutch assembly turn, other part of the clutch assembly, gearbox and wheel do not come along. Neutral gear disengages gears from each other inside the gearbox. Crankshaft, clutch assembly and part of the gearbox move, other part of the gearbox and wheel do not. So the two are ...


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If the only thing that changed between then (ran fine) and now (won't fire) is carburetors / fuel, and if it now won't fire on ether, then either your ignition timing is suddenly far out of whack for totally coincidental reasons or else your spark plugs are now too wet (with fuel) to fire from flooding. Pull out the plugs, let them air out, let the cylinders ...


4

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


1

I would remove the spark plugs and spray some lubricant into the cylinders. Use something like PB Blaster, SeaFoam, Liquid Wrench etc. Allow it to sit overnight. With the bike on the center stand, the ignition in "off", the transmission in gear rotate the back wheel to see if the motor will turn over. You should see some of the oil being pushed out of the ...


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I think that because or corrosion and stick together of some parts. Knocking could help to release you clutch. Some other parts, like carburetor need to be cleaned. Fresh fuel, new plug, start help spray.



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