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My punto will not start of the key what could be the fault


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So finally (on the third trip to the garage) they found a fault code. It was the MAP Sensor. Getting it replaced. Fingers crossed that is the end of the problem. Time will tell.


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I have experience on similar situation. It was -20 degree Celsius and engine was choked on my case. As people indicated your problem could be the fuel pump. Trapped water (ice) inside the gas tank can cause failure of the pump. You may need to check if fuel pressure is ok on the engine side. This may help. Fiat Punto Wont Start. Fuel Light & Three ...


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I had similar symptoms in my '97 Civic: ran great when cold, tough to start when engine was hot, engine would stall under load (getting going from a stop), but would also have an intermittent rough idle. After replacing several coolant sensors and a fuel filter, I ended up having to replace the distributor cap, rotor, and coil pack to solve the problem. ...


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I have experienced the same symptoms on an engine, where the MAF sensor was giving lower than expected readings. The engine would only run for a few seconds before stalling. A new MAF sensor fixed the problem. I tested my MAF on the bench with a hair dryer and a multimeter. It wasn't until I got a replacement that I could see how low a reading the faulty ...


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In case of erratic no start, try this as we had the same problem. Inside electricals worked, we had horn, headlights, wipers, radio, etc. But starter just clicked as though there was dirty terminal ends or possible dead cell in battery. Jumping with another vehicle did not make any difference. Long story short. Battery was fine and starter bench tested ...


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One possible cause might be the 16-year old, slightly mechanically stretched timing chain that gets the "right" amount of additional elongation from the warm engine that puts the engine timing and more specifically the ignition timing out. Another component that could lead to problems with the timing chain is a faulty tensioner.


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There are two possible reasons As mentioned by @user5626466. Improper circulation of the coolant in the engine. If you have the habit of using tap water instead of the coolant, the fine holes in the engine case which circulate the coolant to all the engine parts may got clogged and some parts might be rusted which may affect the flow of coolant. This ...


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The car will be fine, that's just the noise the starter motor/solenoid makes when the battery is flat. The solenoid switches on the motor and engages the motor's gear with the flywheel, allowing it to turn the engine. There is a strong spring which pushes the solenoid back to its resting position after use. When the battery is very low it can't supply ...


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You have another issue The battery doesn't sound like to the core issue that you are experiencing. I propose that your stator or rectifier have gone bad thus you are experiencing a situation where you have to have your battery serviced. The motorcycle should be 'servicing your battery' and charging it as you ride the motorcycle. You will want to test ...


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Disconnecting the Battery One thing they could try is disconnecting the battery, starting the ignition to remove any current from within the system, reconnecting the battery and testing for the issue again to see if that has resolved the issue. Resetting the Immobiliser Otherwise you'll want to tell your friend to look at the cars user manual in order to ...


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The main problem would be the battery, as already pointed out. In low temperatures batteries tend to lose power, and for batteries near the end of their lifetime this means that you won't have enough current to turn the engine. Another problem would be the wrong oil chosen for the engine. Oils have grades based on their viscosity in certain temperatures - ...


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I fixed this. Here is what I did: I added a fresh, new battery. It was going to be needed regardless as the battery was producing corrosion, a good sign the battery is at the end of its life. I put a fresh terminal on the damaged terminal where there was corrosion. I stripped the old wires and slapped on a 5 dollar terminal from autozone, plugged the bad ...


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Turns out the problem was the key security system. Apparently the switched voltage reset the key security, which caused my key to not be recognized by the car. After getting the security reprogrammed to accept my key, the car works as usual.


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Ice Probably the most common problem that people have is when their car is parked in a moist environment below degrees, resulting in ice forming on some or all of the windows. To resolve this problem, see this answer. Battery Another problem that is quite common (this happened to me recently), is if you have a car with a car battery that is in poor ...


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Batteries perform better when they aren't cold so often the first time a battery fails is when it is cold so if you could heat it up a bit it would probably start the car. This may be way cars mysteriously start after sitting in the sun for a while. Also it may be harder to turn over a cold engine than a warm one so it would require a greater current draw. ...


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I agree with @James Drinkard to start by finding out if there is good enough contact between the battery and the rest of the car to support running the starter. One thing in particular to check, I know there is no noise when you try to start it, but does the voltage sag? You can have someone try to start it while you test the voltage (touch the probe to the ...


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I would still check to voltage at the battery as I don't like to make assumptions, but I would check the terminal battery cables and clean them and the contact points on the battery. I'm fairly confident that is the issue, based on the description. If they are the universal clamp together type, unbolt those and clean that as well. All the pieces have to ...


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For the no start you'll need to check wiring to the starter. You may or may not have an anti-theft module in your car. Is there a flashing security light when the key is in the on position? Is the battery fully charged? Here's how I would test the circuit, locate the starter relay. In your case it would be under the driver side dash. Pull the relay noting ...


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I don't think the it will be a flat battery, since a flat battery will usually caused a repeated clicking of the starter solenoid and a flickering of the dash lights when you turn the key. Either the contacts on the relay you can hear clicking are faulty, so there is no power getting to the starter solenoid, or the control wire on the starter solenoid has ...


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You indicated above that there is 'soft clicking' when you try and start the car. My bet is a weak battery - you can still have headlamp power, but not enough charge in the battery to turn over the engine. Try this, turn on the headlamps and have someone stand in front and observe the lights as you turn the key to start - if the headlamps dim way down, ...


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This exact same issue happened with me in a Ford Focus. As rpmerf said, check the terminals. In my case, after removing the terminals from the battery and reseating them, the car cranked over fine.


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It sounds like your starter solenoid is bad. You starter solenoid has two pieces to it. The signal it takes from your ignition switch triggers a magnet the turns another switch when the magnet is activated it closes another circuit for your starter. This gives your starter current from the battery to turn over your engine. If I get what your saying, ...


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This sounds like a problem with the coolant temperature sensor. Don't worry - replacement is cheap and can be done easily by yourself or a friend who worked on cars before. Cause Cold engines need more fuel to start than warm engines. This is due to the fact that a part of the vaporized fuel condenses at the cold cylinder wall inside each cylinder. This ...


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Repeated clicking is a result of not enough power making it to the starter. Your battery either has a bad connection, or is too weak to turn the starter motor. Battery Connection Your problem may be entirely due to a bad connection. Starters draw a lot of amps, and batteries are weaker in cold temperatures. I'd start by fully exposing the terminals. You ...


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Its always good to warm up a engine before a throttle -away -to glory. I keep my ktm idling for 2 mins and then constant throttle at lower gears when i start off i dont ride it above 50kmph for the first 10 mins. I keep it in 3rd gear. And once optimum engine temperature is acheived i resume natural riding. This has worked for me. Also, if u r into an habit ...


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Starter/Solenoid: The starter spins your motor up, the solenoid pushes the Starter & Engine gears into contact during starting. Sometimes things get sticky from corrosion or dirt inside the Starter/Solenoid and you'll hear a click or two when you try to crank. Solution: Find your starter and give it a couple of soft to medium TAPS with a hammer (bonus ...


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This could be caused by multiple things, the most likely case would be a bad battery in need of replacement. However before coming to that conclusion there are a few things which can be checked. Make sure your battery terminals are in good working order and are not grounding out any where make sure they are insulated and not cracked and touching metal. ...


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What is the most probable cause for this? In the most general terms, the engine isn't running because there is either too much air or too much fuel. Can the cause be that the machine was not in use for some months? Is it true that petrol may "become old" after some month so it does not burn anymore correctly? It is possible, especially if the ...


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A car battery's power will drop with temperature. It would be my first port of call. Since the car ran fine when you had it jumpstarted with the help of your friend, I would have the battery tested to make sure that it can deliver sufficient juice to the starter.


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Based on my limited knowledge on scooters courtesy of owning one for about 3 years and assuming your scooter is carb and has similar mechanism (BTW not able to Google your make and model it's rare) First of all check the carburettor. If the carb is blocked then you will notice the symptoms which you have mentioned , blockage at higher throttle. Check the ...


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I'll try to dig out some E60, diesel-specific information if I have time, but consider the following as possible culprits: clogged fuel filter faulty fuel pump relay weak fuel pump


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Was the engine running before you disassembled it, yes or no? Most of 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 16 valve small engines ARE interference. If after you assembled it and you missed on the timing and cranked the engine with just one of the camshafts out of timing you ruined the head. Do a compression test. You can rent or borrow the tool.


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You say the chain jumped timing. Was the car running when you disassembled it? Or did you have a tow truck bring it in? If you were stranded you may have damaged cylinder head valves. Do a compression test.


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Well in the Honda world, these are the classic symptoms of a failing PGM-FI (Programmable Fuel Injection) main relay, which controls power for the fuel injection system and the fuel pump. Vibrations cause the solder points on the relay crack over time, leading to intermittent failures. Failures can be exacerbated when the relay is warm, either through ...


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What you are hearing is a defective VTC actuator, which in part controls the oil pressure. It is defective in 10"s of thousands of Honda 4 cylinder engines built between 08 and 13. It is mentioned in Honda TSB 09-010. Honda will not fix this problem. The cars with this issue are worth very little in trade, and the defect may eventually lead to engine failure ...


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Could be a failing coil, which will inevitably lead to a complete fail at some point soon. Very easy to test. I think for you it's under the distributor cap. And I think they even reported a large group complaint for distributor-related components this model. If out of spec, that's your problem. What you explained was very similar to what happened to me ...


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Two Possibilities Off the top of my head I would look at: The clutch start switch - a broken wire or switch will prevent you from starting the bike. It disables the starter relay by grounding it out unless you pull in the clutch Side Stand Switch - See if the side stand switch hits properly on your kick stand. If it does not get depressed when the side ...


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There is much to be said here; You first should have done an electrical connection probe test to know if your fuel pump is operating, your sparks are sparking, your coil is sparking, your injectors are igniting, your distributor components are working, == the vehicle timing is correct, your starter is kicking, your Fuel Injection Main Relay, Coolant ...


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But if it's my starter shouldn't I hear a noise Not if the starter solenoid is stuck. This is the piece of metal that connects the circuit and allows the starter motor to receive power. It's usually pulled into place magnetically, thereby connecting two terminals and powering the motor. When solenoids age, they tend to stick, or, in some cases, ...


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It sounds like you need to charge your battery then the car will turn over and you can troubleshoot why it's not starting. You can either jump start the car from another car using some jumper cables OR you can put the car on a battery charger to get the battery charged Once you get it turning over, you can try and figure out the 'will not start' ...


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Two things about this bike if it is OEM It has two sets of coils. It has two sets of points. If you take the right side cover off the motor where the crank is, you can see if the points have been swapped out with signal generators, a common mod for this bike. One coil fires for cylinder 1 and 4, the other fires for cylinder 2 and 3. IMO you have a bad ...



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