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4

Your carbs are clogged with varnish and bad gas The remnants of gas that has evaporated are a gummy hard varnish inside of your carburetors. You have a bit of work to do. You need to completely disassemble the carburetors and thoroughly clean all of the nooks, crannies, jets, fuel galley's and air galley's in order to get your bike back in working order. ...


5

It sounds like your carb(s) are plugged and need cleaned. If the fuel in the carbs has ethanol in it, the carbs are going to be caked with crap. The floats could be ruined. There are a lot of things going on. Getting the carbs rebuilt or at the very least cleaned up, is going to be a must. All of the symptoms you saying are pointing to carb issues.


0

Check the start relay. I've seen other f-series owners complaining about this exact issue on this forum.


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I had a 2001 corolla with similar symptoms. It turned out being a evap issue. A real pain in the butt to diagnose. The thing you have to watch with corolla is when you fuel it. Make sure you stop at the first click. Accidentally overfilling can mess up the charcoal canister can make your life living hell. A stuck purge valve can cause flooding issues when ...


0

Your issue could be a camshaft position sensor going bad. My G35 wouldnt start right away unless I gave it some gas. After 8 months..car stop accelerating while driving. Issue was camshaft position sensor bank 2. It was an easy fix, I just youtubed it. Part was $100 at AutoParts store.


4

Try starting the vehicle in neutral. It might an issue with the electrical connection in the Neutral Start Switch located in transmission console where the gear shift is. If memory serves me correctly there is a device called a parking pawl-sort of a safety locking mechanism. Sometimes this affect the start switch which affects the ability to start Park. ...


4

This is rather specific to the hazards of car ownership in West Africa, so I'm not surprised no-one has suggested this! After using an improvised variant of this method to confirm that it was indeed an electrical problem with no power reaching the spark plug wires, I had a closer look at my fuse box, and specifically the "EFI" (fuel injection sytem) fuse. ...


1

Is the field coil connection connected? If not the alternator will not produce any output at all. The field coil supplies the magnetic field needed to induce current in the alternator coil winding. There are 2 connections on a alternator. B+ Output of regulator Field Field coil connection The ground is the casing of the alternator. The plug ...


1

Unfortunately, it looks like once the Ford PAT system has tripped, it needs a dealer to fix it...


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It might be the Body Control Module.. Erica drove the vehicle home- logically then engine and transmission are ok. The BCM controls the operation of the power windows as well the security system and I would hazard a guess the functions of the instrument cluster as well.


2

The most common cause of flooding on start in this era Toyota is a failure of the coolant temperature sensor. When it fails the ECM thinks the engine is -40 deg F. The ECM therefore adds much extra fuel to help with this false arctic weather start. The warmer the actual temperature the harder it is to get it started. To test for this check the voltage on ...


8

Something to keep in mind is that the time an engine takes a great deal of its wear is cold starts. The oil isn't up to temperature yet, so parts are not separated as they should be and you get more wear. If you do this very frequently, like going from red light to red light, you're probably doing more harm than good. Also, if your car does not start as ...


6

I'd suspect that it is causing extra wear on the starter motor and flywheel (where the starter motor engages). Considering the start isn't in motion at any point other than starting the car, and there's no contact between it and the flywheel unless you are running the starter, you are causing more wear. Depending on the cost of replacing those parts, it ...


3

As it's a security-specific component on a relatively new high-end car, I suspect you won't be able to use a second-hand part - You will probably have to get a new one from Mercedes. Even if you could use a second-hand one, you'll almost certainly have to take it to Mercedes to get them to reprogram it to your car.


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@paulster.. Yes.. The start sounds normal and yes jump off refers to getting a rolling start and Poppin the clutch. I do still have to pump the clutch several times before it will turn over..


2

Get the schematics for your car and trace out the starting circuit with a test light. Wondering in the clutch is 'false positive' and the issue is actually somewhere else, or if the clutch is moving a wire. Your clutch switch will not allow the starter to turn, so if the starter is turning, it is not related to the clutch switch. Your issue sounds to be ...


1

Lots of good answers, but will clarify something for what it is worth: All hybrid cars do have a 12V and a high voltage system. In my Prius (2009, 2003-2009 model), the 12v battery is in the boot. The standard car electrics like computers (all 13 of them) and screens and headlight and indicators and everything runs off the 12v battery. The 12v battery is ...


2

Dirt in the tank could definitely be the cause of the burned pin because the burned pin suggests that the pump was drawing a larger than normal current from that wire. The pump having to contend with dirt in the tank could mean it was having to work significantly harder than when pumping clean fuel which would be a very good reason for it to draw excessive ...


3

The vehicle battery is not supplying enough power to run the starter. Test the battery and the connections and cables. The video is most helpful. The clicking is caused by the starter trying to turn and then shutting off due to lack of volatage and this process repeats over and over as long as the key is held in the start position.


6

Voltage drop the ground side pin 4 with the car running. I'd suspect a poor ground is the cause. You can also scope the power side by removing the fuse and putting a wire loop in place. Connect a low amp probe. Since the fuse is rated @ 20A you should expect to see 8-10A if it's drawing more amps than that suspect a short to ground or a bad ground or ...


1

Had a similar problem with my 2007 xcountry. Thought it was a couple of accessories that I put on the bike. So many issues with starting when I travelled a short distance, then stopped the bike. Put in new battery, didn't fix the problem. Changed to a lithium battery on the bike which fixed the problem or at least I am not having that issue any more. It ...


1

The picture in your comment suggests the following course of action: The bolted type of battery terminal shown can cause this symptom and still look OK. Test it with a voltmeter. Put one probe on the lead of the battery and the other on the copper of the cable and then read the meter while trying to crank the engine. Do this for both connections. If the ...


4

This problem is usually indicative of a bad connection at the battery (or one of the battery cables). It almost behaves like a resettable fuse. When there is a connection, the lights work because the connection is good enough to allow the little amount of power needed to power these devices. Then, when you try to start, the connection breaks because there is ...


1

If the car drives for about half an hour and switches off or parked off and within 10mins or so of trying to restart the vehicle, suspect the crank sensor. The reason is that the crank sensor is impaired by dust or dirt. Remove, clean and replace. It controls timing (spark) so if the tank is full and you hear the engine fuel pump buzzing sound in the ...


0

If the car drives for about half an hour and switches off or parked off and within 10mins or so trying to restart vehicle ,suspect crank sensor


5

Not familiar with your vehicle/engine specifically, but familiar with carbed engines in general. I would think the #1 thing to look at would be the choke. Pumping before starting a carb vehicle is normal. It gives it a squirt of fuel and sets the choke. The low RPM indicates that the high idle is not set, which likely means the choke is not set also. ...


1

If you don't get a click at all, then I'd think that the signal isn't getting to the starter motor, so either an immobiliser problem as you suggest, or a problem with the switch as per JPhi's comment. If you can get at the starter, you might be able to attach a multimeter probe to the signal wire (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter) to see ...


4

The mystery was finally solved after taking in my vehicle due to a check engine light before a smog test. Both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle sensor needed to replace as they were giving faulty readings which caused high idling on top of the cold start problems. I did clean the mass airflow sensor, but apparently this wasn't good enough since it ...


0

QUICK quick non-professional way to help distinguish the problem. Belt spray ! if you use Belt spray and it does not help. Look deeper. If it does stop . Replace the belts.


3

It sounds like you have a drag in the front end accessory drive (FEAD) system. Generally screeching noises occur when the FEAD belt slips. --Could be a dirty or worn belt. You said the car has 97K miles on it, you said "The belts look pretty new, no cracking." Is that a new belt or is that the original belt with 97K miles on it? If the belt is dirty or ...


1

I've seen electronic toys with very weak batteries do what you're describing. They try to come on, but as everything starts to power up, the little remaining battery current can't keep up, and the toy goes dark, just to start the process over again. If your battery is very weak, I could see how the key less entry system might be starting to "boot up" and ...


3

There's usually an inhibitor switch that stops the current going to the starter unless the transmission is in park - on older vehicles, a mechanical switch activated by the linkage from the gear selector, but on newer stuff I'd assume it is inside one of the many computers...


4

Sounds like it needs a new starter Honda OE starters do the slow crank then click thing when they start to go. Next time it acts up see if you can smack it with something. Your phantom issue sounds like the ECM Lost it's crankshaft variation pattern and regained it. You would need to get codes pulled to verify.



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