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7

Since diesel engines rely on compression to run and not a spark like a gasoline engine, heat is directly involved in the combustion of the diesel in the combustion chamber. The way this occurs is that when the piston comes up it compresses the air which is in the cylinder. This creates heat. When the engine is cold, a lot of this heat gets transferred out of ...


5

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


4

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...


3

Although this question can raise differing opinions the very basic answer is yes you can use non OEM parts. In some cases they offer better warranties than the OEM brand. Aftermarket parts are in general made to the same specifications as the OEM part. You do want to be careful with your sources of aftermarket parts. Buy only parts from reputable suppliers. ...


3

I just find out today after bleeding all the left air in the low-high pressure sides, that it wasn´t the lift pump that was faulty, but just a rubber seal located on the entrance to the high pressure pump. It took me quite a long time to find out but after discarding there wasn´t any kind of lift pump located on the fuel tank (Mondeo MK3 does have one ...


3

The other day while I was searching for information on electronic relays, I ran across this solution to your problem: (I found it on this site.) Here is the write up which goes along with it, which I find pretty cool: This is a clever little circuit involving two relays and a momentary switch and is more a of a 'logic' circuit than one used to switch ...


3

If you really want a no-install option, and even @paulster2 answer seems like work then why not use old school locks like gear/steering locks? Or better, this -


3

Background So there is a grounding switch on your clutch lever, hence the need to pull in the clutch to start the motorcycle. Troubleshooting You can disconnect that switch and get a piece of wire and complete the circuit at the connector. Once that's done, make sure you're in neutral and then try to start the bike. The switch is labeled 10 in the ...


2

I have experienced the same problem like yours today but it happened to be timing belt which was broken, after replacing the car was back to normal.


2

The problem probably resides in a connection somewhere in your starting system. I would start by disconnecting at the battery, making sure all connections are clean, then re-securing them so they are good and tight. Move your way back on the cables to ensure all other connections are good in the same manner. While you are moving down the cables, ensure there ...


2

"Maintenance Free" doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. "Maintenance Free" means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate ...


2

You have a poor, loose or corroded connection in the system. Ignition switch, starter cables, starter solonoid, starter motor, battery and earth cables all need to be checked. It is one of those jobs that you will solve at first examination of the system, say by a wiggle test, or time is needed to pain-stakingly check every point of the system.


2

This could be a problem with the neutral safety switch (NSS). Next time this happens, leave the switch to the on (or even accessory) position, then put your foot on the brake, then move the gear shift lever down to neutral and try again. You may even want to try shifting it several times down to first gear then back up into park or neutral. Even if you have ...


2

You need to check the starter/solonoid for operation. The electrical system must be checked for correct voltages from battery to starter motor. A quick and dirty thing you can do, as it seems to work intermittantly, is to give the starter motor a couple of firm clouts with a hammer and then try starting. If the starter is on its way out, this will cause it ...


2

Your best bet is to get a replacement carb. Some have had good luck rebuilding them, but for the trouble of it, it's just a lot easier to buy a new one off the internet. Personally, I can never get them to run right after a rebuild. You can usually get one for less than $50 depending on the model. After you put a new one on, ensure you have a cut off valve ...


2

Remove and clean both of your battery cables and posts, put them back on nice and tight. If that doesn't fix the problem, start checking the main ground wires from the battery. You likely have a poor connection at one of those places.


2

There is a connection problem at your battery or in the cables. This usually happens at the battery post, whether a top or side post model. The cable is getting enough of a connection to run the lights and such, which is relatively low load. As soon as you touch the starter, which is a high load, you lose the connection and everything goes black. Please ...


2

The sound of the clicking is from the starter relay. There is a little bi-metal strip inside of the plastic housing and it's flapping back and forth. It's the same concept as a turn signal, it's just happening more rapidly. It means the voltage on your battery is low. Even though you just drove it, it might not be holding a charge well. Very hot ...


2

I think the problem is, one or both of your battery leads are not connected properly. You need to do two things when you installed the new battery. Ensure the leads are completely clean of any type of debris or corrosion. Second, ensure they are tight enough to have a proper and secure connection. I believe the Concorde has side posts on the battery. These ...


1

First, I'd like to try to clarify this whole situation a little. Your car has two keys, correct? An ignition key and an antitheft key that fits a special keyhole in the shifter, which manually permits the shifter to be shifted out of (P)ark without using the ignition key? As you drove home, you noticed a loss of power to the dash lights and power windows, ...


1

It sounds like your ignition switch is bad, and needs to be replaced. This is a common failure on Civics of that age, particularly on higher mileage cars. A replacement switch is around $70 from a local parts store, and can take a couple of hours to replace, depending on experience and familiarity with the portions of the car that need to be removed to ...


1

It will most likely be on the fuel side of things. One item to check would be the ECT (engine cooling temperature sensor). Possibly when you start the engine from cold, the ECT is giving a plausible cold engine temperature. After driving and with the engine now hot, if the ECT is still giving a 'cold temp' reading, the engines ECU will supply a very rich ...


1

The cause of your starting problem is unknown because the vehicle has not been checked-scanned- for it. A program like Torque Pro will offer you the ability to retrieve fault codes with your smart phone, but a code on its own is not the complete answer. The code should be considered as what the vehicles computer thinks is wrong. In very many instances the ...


1

Clutch disengages crankshaft movement from the gearbox. Crankshaft and part of the clutch assembly turn, other part of the clutch assembly, gearbox and wheel do not come along. Neutral gear disengages gears from each other inside the gearbox. Crankshaft, clutch assembly and part of the gearbox move, other part of the gearbox and wheel do not. So the two are ...


1

I would remove the spark plugs and spray some lubricant into the cylinders. Use something like PB Blaster, SeaFoam, Liquid Wrench etc. Allow it to sit overnight. With the bike on the center stand, the ignition in "off", the transmission in gear rotate the back wheel to see if the motor will turn over. You should see some of the oil being pushed out of the ...


1

After compression checking and pulling off the valve covers it was obvious there was no traumatic damage. Rebuilding the carb helped (because after we solved it we had a huge surge in horsepower) but didn't solve the problem. It was only after we had called a local machine shop and described the problem just like above where they had mentioned "are the gears ...


1

Hot-start problems are indicative of loss of pressure in the fuel line. This is usually caused by a leaky fuel injector. The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start. If there is ...


1

If you checked your oil level and discovered it was low, then topped it off correctly, you'll have caused your engine absolutely no damage. It does seem as though you have other issues with the oil leakage. You'll need to take this to a shop to get the oil leak itself sorted out. Depending on the amount of oil being lost through the leak, you can drive it ...


1

if the engine cranks at the first time and then it stopped (like not enough of power), then you're run outta battery. but if the engine cranks but it wouldn't start then you have a problem around your fuel injection system or your igniton system.


1

It sounds as though your glow plugs are on their way out or you are not letting them get up to temperature prior to starting the engine. Once the engine is running, it warms up and it's fine. You stop at a light and all is normal.



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