Hot answers tagged

12

tl dr: Corrosion (once cleaned) is not a huge issue. It is just typical corrosion on the battery terminal. See this image: (NOTE: This is a 6V battery, but the same principles apply.) The blueish color you see is hydrated copper sulfate. When acid vapors escape from the battery, it can cause a reaction with any copper which may be in the terminal. The ...


9

This sounds like a problem with the coolant temperature sensor. Don't worry - replacement is cheap and can be done easily by yourself or a friend who worked on cars before. Cause Cold engines need more fuel to start than warm engines. This is due to the fact that a part of the vaporized fuel condenses at the cold cylinder wall inside each cylinder. This ...


8

From personal experience, I'd replaced ALOT of these working at the dealership. It wasn't just the accords either, it was quite a few Honda and Acuras that used the same design and power delivery system. The most common issues I saw out of probably close to 100+ failures of these was: Ground strap on the starter becoming corroded. Bad ground to engine ...


7

I've a 93 and have had what sounds like the same problem, that is the ignition turns on but when the key is turned further to start the engine it does not always crank the engine. In my case it was the ignition switch and being one not to through money away I took it all apart and cleaned the switch contacts and it's been fine for the past four/five years. ...


7

Repeated clicking is a result of not enough power making it to the starter. Your battery either has a bad connection, or is too weak to turn the starter motor. Battery Connection Your problem may be entirely due to a bad connection. Starters draw a lot of amps, and batteries are weaker in cold temperatures. I'd start by fully exposing the terminals. You ...


6

This could be caused by multiple things, the most likely case would be a bad battery in need of replacement. However before coming to that conclusion there are a few things which can be checked. Make sure your battery terminals are in good working order and are not grounding out any where make sure they are insulated and not cracked and touching metal. ...


6

I recommend you carry out the following steps: Have the starter relay tested. From the description provided (old starter was clicking) this may actually be fine but it is so easy to verify that it works it would be silly to not rule this out as the source of the problem. After locating the starter relay, have someone turn the key in the ignition to start ...


5

Theory It sounds as if the starter solenoid is getting 'stuck' due to low voltage. That is the second buzzing noise. The high pitched sound is your fuel pump priming your system and is normal. Perhaps the rain created a grounding situation that drained your battery a bit. Regardless of that speculation, here is the fix. Charge the battery. I believe ...


5

This is called "run on" of the starter. It doesn't cause a huge issue if it doesn't happen too much or for too long, but basically the Bendix stays engaged in the flywheel ring gear an is being then driven by the engine. To further explain, the Bendix (or pinion drive mechanism) is the part on the end of the starter armature which engages the flywheel (or ...


5

I have also prefilled my oil filters when I can. There is a notable difference in the amount of time it takes for the gauge to register when comparing prefilled to not prefilled. The difference is still fairly small though, I guess about 2-3 seconds. Although it seems like a life time while you watch the gauge. I believe this is insignificant though. If you ...


5

Pretty Common Problem with the Duke 390 This is a very common issue with the KTM 390. There are dozens of posts regarding customers who are experiencing the same exact issue. Additionally, there are a few YouTube video's that show the problem happening pretty consistently. The various proposed issues related by customers seem to revolve around these ...


5

Ice Probably the most common problem that people have is when their car is parked in a moist environment below degrees, resulting in ice forming on some or all of the windows. To resolve this problem, see this answer. Battery Another problem that is quite common (this happened to me recently), is if you have a car with a car battery that is in poor ...


4

Background So there is a grounding switch on your clutch lever, hence the need to pull in the clutch to start the motorcycle. Troubleshooting You can disconnect that switch and get a piece of wire and complete the circuit at the connector. Once that's done, make sure you're in neutral and then try to start the bike. The switch is labeled 10 in the ...


4

If your starter motor is working 8 times out of 10 then you probably need to replace it. It very likely has developed a dead spot on the armature. If the armature is positioned so that the brushes land on a dead spot, it won't start. Brushes are the electrical connection between the power source and the moving armature. The picture below shows how these ...


4

There are two things I'd look at as the problem. First and most likely is the solenoid on the starter is almost shot. The solenoid has a large copper washer which is pressed into the two posts (one from the battery connection and the other going to the starter motor). When this wears out, you'll get a clicking sound (almost a dead thud) as the Bendix is ...


4

Your problem is caused by decompression valve problem in 650 engines prior June 2012. Only way to get rid of it permanently is to replace decompression valve, which fortunately is not a huge job. BMW bulletin about the issue: http://www.gravesurrounds.com/bike/hotstart.pdf Chances of having hot start problems due decompression valve are higher when your ...


4

The clicking sound on cranking is usually a strong indication of a weak battery that needs replacement. This is also corroborated by the fact that the lights don't work. If the vehicle can be jump-started it will confirm that the battery isn't charged. Have the battery tested if this is the case and replaced if need be.


4

If you found it restarted once by removing the wiring to the sensor, your issue is going to lie either with the sensor, the wiring, or the connection. Check the wiring for breaks Check the plug for corrosion or damage, clean or replace if needed If all else fails, replace the sensor.


4

Definitely not optimal, but as you say it'll work in a pinch. That, of course, depends upon the state of the main battery. Even when a battery is "dead", it doesn't mean that it's completely flat. It still has some power left in it (lights are dim and the starter only clicks ... but it still has something going on). The overall voltage may be down quite a ...


4

Remove the terminals to the battery. clean the battery and terminals with a wire brush or a battery post cleaning tool. Reinstall. If you have posts, you may need to replace the clamp if the current one is too stretched. Also check your ground is good and connected to a clean part of the body or block.


4

One possible cause might be the 16-year old, slightly mechanically stretched timing chain that gets the "right" amount of additional elongation from the warm engine that puts the engine timing and more specifically the ignition timing out. Another component that could lead to problems with the timing chain is a faulty tensioner.


4

Based on my limited knowledge on scooters courtesy of owning one for about 3 years and assuming your scooter is carb and has similar mechanism (BTW not able to Google your make and model it's rare) First of all check the carburettor. If the carb is blocked then you will notice the symptoms which you have mentioned , blockage at higher throttle. Check the ...


4

A car battery's power will drop with temperature. It would be my first port of call. Since the car ran fine when you had it jumpstarted with the help of your friend, I would have the battery tested to make sure that it can deliver sufficient juice to the starter.


3

You need to go back and look at the firing order of the spark plug wires you installed. If you get two out of place on a four cylinder engine, you now only have two good firing cylinders, and depending on which two got switched, one of them may even be firing the cylinder at opposition to the rest, not allowing the engine to get anywhere close to operating ...


3

It could also be the Crank Position Sensor. It is mounted on the flywheel cover and if it gets contaminated with dust from the clutch it can stop the engine from starting. It confuses the average guy as it looks like either a fuel or ignition problem. It is held in position with two bolts. Might be awkward to get to. Hope this helps.


3

While your question is pretty thorough, I'm assuming a few things in this answer that you didn't clarify; When you crank the engine, and it doesn't start, I'm assuming it's a smooth crank without hiccups. By that I mean it isn't trying to start, it just cranks. You have the petrol model, not a diesel. It uses an electronic push-button start mechanism. ...


3

The stalling symptoms could be explained by a fuel pump relay that doesn't like heat. I say this because the vehicle stalled seemingly intermittently, but whenever the car had been running for quite some time, only for it to start up again after a few minutes (allowing the relay to cool down a bit). If the relay is the root cause, the fix would be to ...


3

Just so you are aware most clutch assemblies (at the pedal) have a pin with a cotter key holding the clutch cable to the pedal and if you just remove that it will not operate! Also doesn't cost anything. Bit of a pain crawling under dash but cheaper.


3

The Katana has a fuse for the starter located on the starter relay underneath the rear of the banana seat. Under the passenger. There is a plastic cover over it, so it's not easily seen. The plastic cover is white. Pop that off and check the 30amp fuse. When you jump start a bike, do not have the car engine running, just use the battery. The amperage ...


3

You have another issue The battery doesn't sound like to the core issue that you are experiencing. I propose that your stator or rectifier have gone bad thus you are experiencing a situation where you have to have your battery serviced. The motorcycle should be 'servicing your battery' and charging it as you ride the motorcycle. You will want to test ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible