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5

16 mA is very good, many manufactures say 50 - 75 mA is normal. You may have an intermittent parasitic draw. Something may be energizing at some point and drain the battery. One way to test this theory would be to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 3 days. Hook the battery back up, if it cranks without a jump it's a parasitic draw, if it doesn't ...


5

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


4

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...


3

Although this question can raise differing opinions the very basic answer is yes you can use non OEM parts. In some cases they offer better warranties than the OEM brand. Aftermarket parts are in general made to the same specifications as the OEM part. You do want to be careful with your sources of aftermarket parts. Buy only parts from reputable suppliers. ...


3

I just find out today after bleeding all the left air in the low-high pressure sides, that it wasn´t the lift pump that was faulty, but just a rubber seal located on the entrance to the high pressure pump. It took me quite a long time to find out but after discarding there wasn´t any kind of lift pump located on the fuel tank (Mondeo MK3 does have one ...


3

It sounds like your Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) security system has locked you out, but I bet you figured that out already ;-) I found some instructions for resetting a Mercury Mountaineer, and would imagine it should work for your Montego as well. A symptom you should also be looking for is whether the flashing red light continues to blink at double ...


2

I'm going through similar issues with mine, sometimes it is hard to start. On acceleration medium to hard. It cuts all power till I back off and gently feed it on. Then it's fine once over 2000 rpm. I'm suspect of the hex shaped solenoid that pushes the variable cam timing is either sticking and/or not pushing or pulling. The location of it is on the ...


2

I'm not a mechanic and have minimal knowledge with cars, so I had it towed to a garage. The mechanic there said it was a bad fuel pump. It's a rather expensive replacement with parts running about $250, and labor costing about $250 (they have to remove the gas tank and everything)


2

I would not worry too much about whether you are going to run out of battery power, especially if you keep the remote-start at a .8 second crank time. You will not burn up enough battery juice to cause yourself any issues. Your battery has several identifiers associated with it. A common one is CCA or Cold Cranking Amps. This shows you what the power output ...


2

See what the spark plugs look like. Are they black and covered in soot/ Has oil leaked past the valve covers and soaked the plugs and wires/ are they wet and smell like gas? Spark plugs cans tell you a whole lot about your air/fuel mix and ignition. Id make sure to check fuel pressure too. make sure pressure doesn't drop too quickly after you turn off the ...


2

This is a very known problem of this model (Porsche 924). Your WUR (warm up regulator) is faulty, and it needs to be changed. Read this link for more info: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/443505-how-do-i-test-if-warm-up-regulator-bad.html


2

"Maintenance Free" doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. "Maintenance Free" means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate ...


2

The problem probably resides in a connection somewhere in your starting system. I would start by disconnecting at the battery, making sure all connections are clean, then re-securing them so they are good and tight. Move your way back on the cables to ensure all other connections are good in the same manner. While you are moving down the cables, ensure there ...


2

You have a poor, loose or corroded connection in the system. Ignition switch, starter cables, starter solonoid, starter motor, battery and earth cables all need to be checked. It is one of those jobs that you will solve at first examination of the system, say by a wiggle test, or time is needed to pain-stakingly check every point of the system.


2

This could be a problem with the neutral safety switch (NSS). Next time this happens, leave the switch to the on (or even accessory) position, then put your foot on the brake, then move the gear shift lever down to neutral and try again. You may even want to try shifting it several times down to first gear then back up into park or neutral. Even if you have ...


2

You need to check the starter/solonoid for operation. The electrical system must be checked for correct voltages from battery to starter motor. A quick and dirty thing you can do, as it seems to work intermittantly, is to give the starter motor a couple of firm clouts with a hammer and then try starting. If the starter is on its way out, this will cause it ...


2

Your best bet is to get a replacement carb. Some have had good luck rebuilding them, but for the trouble of it, it's just a lot easier to buy a new one off the internet. Personally, I can never get them to run right after a rebuild. You can usually get one for less than $50 depending on the model. After you put a new one on, ensure you have a cut off valve ...


2

Remove and clean both of your battery cables and posts, put them back on nice and tight. If that doesn't fix the problem, start checking the main ground wires from the battery. You likely have a poor connection at one of those places.


1

If the engine does not turn over on the first few times of turning the key, then in the light of what you have already had done, the switch on the bottom of your ignition key barrel may be at fault, or you starter motor solonoid sticking. If the engine turns over but does not start, and you have let the glow plug warning light go out, then an ECU relay ...


1

It sounds as though your glow plugs are on their way out or you are not letting them get up to temperature prior to starting the engine. Once the engine is running, it warms up and it's fine. You stop at a light and all is normal.


1

The battery is dead. You are hearing the starter solenoid clicking over. Does your bike not have a kick-starter? It's only a 250, it should, right? I don't know much about new bikes at all. If you do happen to flood the engine again, just go full choke, and spin the engine over a few times. That should help unflood them, if that doesn't work, go inside ...


1

The battery was dead. I removed it, put it on the tender, and she was able to turn after a charge. Just goes to show its a very large amount of juice needed to get the engine started. Don't undermine the importance of tending.


1

There is a fusible Link that possibly has blown, where the positive battery cable connects to the starter relay, there is a smaller red wire usually has heat shrink on it. replacement fusible link avail at NAPA, Advance auto etc, but could also use a fuse and holder.


1

Since you already replaced the battery, one of the next reasonable plans of attack would be to see how dirty the air filter is or see if any of the spark plugs have been fouled. If you find the spark plugs or air filter are old, see if replacing them helps your issue. After those steps, I would also investigate the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay if there ...


1

check your mass air flow sensor(MAF). It monitors the amount of air entering the engine. They often get dirty or simply begin to fail and the ecm can't correctly adjust the air/fuel ratio causing it to go into a limp mode in hopes of protecting the engine. Cleaning the throttle body wouldn't be a terrible idea either


1

I had a vehicle once that would barely make it up hills and also wouldn't go more than 40 MPH or so. The vehicle was much older (1980's), though. The problem ended up being that 2 of the 4 cylinders weren't working due to the spark plug wires had gotten old and weren't transferring the charge from the plugs to the cylinders. While this is a possibility ...


1

An old PARKER'S guide to the Uno known starting faults says: Failed distributor vacuum unit. Two small wires inside distributor break after 8-9 years or 60K-70K miles. Crankshaft position sensor.


1

On the side of the distributor,youll find a little modem.This can also be a problem and need to be replaced every 30,000 ks to be on the safe side.I did not know some Unos came out with points very interresting. One of the most reliable cars really fantastic.


1

It sounds like you've got a pretty good idea what you're doing already! I'd start by replacing the points & condensor and regapping them, that way you can eliminate one potential problem immediately. The same with the fuel filter - all are quick and cheap and will need doing anyway... Do a compression check as well, to make sure that is good, and ...


1

Bad crank sensor Well, it turns out that the 2nd bullet on my list of things not wrong was incorrect. I had "assumed" that the crank sensor was fine because I had just put a new one in not 3 months ago with a brand new harmonic balancer. Plus it looked perfect as far as a visual inspection. No odd wear or corrosion just a little soot built up on the ...



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