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6

We have a Mk4 TDI Jetta that makes a sound after startup that might be described as a sneeze. I'm fairly confident that it's the starter motor's overrun clutch. As soon as the engine "starts," it begins turning faster than the starter can turn. For this reason, starters have a one-way clutch, called an overrun or sprag clutch. This permits the starter to ...


5

16 mA is very good, many manufactures say 50 - 75 mA is normal. You may have an intermittent parasitic draw. Something may be energizing at some point and drain the battery. One way to test this theory would be to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 3 days. Hook the battery back up, if it cranks without a jump it's a parasitic draw, if it doesn't ...


5

It actually sounds like a fuel supply issue to me. My Eclipse (most likely due to the a difference in the replacement fuel pressure regulator that was installed after the original one failed) isn't able to hold fuel pressure in the rail when off for more than a few hours. So, those "cold" starts all take more cranking and it usually has the same half ...


5

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


4

You have a flat battery - use either a charger or a jump-start from another car (there are plenty of questions on here and guides elsewhere as to how to jump start) to charge the battery.


4

I tried again, this time connecting the positive battery lead to the low-amp solenoid input terminal (which was harder to reach -- that's why I didn't try it before) instead of directly to the starter motor, and it started just fine. So presumably the solenoid must be actuating some kind of mechanical linkage between the starter motor and engine rather than ...


4

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...


3

It sounds like your Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) security system has locked you out, but I bet you figured that out already ;-) I found some instructions for resetting a Mercury Mountaineer, and would imagine it should work for your Montego as well. A symptom you should also be looking for is whether the flashing red light continues to blink at double ...


3

This sounds like a typical starter failure. With a voltmeter check the battery voltage(12.4-12.6 for a charged battery), check the power and earth cables to the motor. Check tightness and cleanliness of all connections. An Old Hands quick and dirty check is to have an assistant hold the key over in the crank position-(handbrake on and out of gear, staying ...


3

A less than optimal battery and a functioning solenoid you would at least get the bendix to actuate. The less than optimal battery, would not supply enough power to have the starter actually rotate the engine. This is usually audiable with a quickly repeating clicking type noise and other times by one "click" [and usually the driver cussing and pounding on ...


3

I just find out today after bleeding all the left air in the low-high pressure sides, that it wasn´t the lift pump that was faulty, but just a rubber seal located on the entrance to the high pressure pump. It took me quite a long time to find out but after discarding there wasn´t any kind of lift pump located on the fuel tank (Mondeo MK3 does have one ...


3

Although this question can raise differing opinions the very basic answer is yes you can use non OEM parts. In some cases they offer better warranties than the OEM brand. Aftermarket parts are in general made to the same specifications as the OEM part. You do want to be careful with your sources of aftermarket parts. Buy only parts from reputable suppliers. ...


2

When trouble shooting a cranks but won't run condition it comes down to three things Fuel, Fire, or Mechanical Fuel - Spray either or starting fluid into the air intake while trying to crank the vehicle. You may have fuel pressure but not enough, this will rule out a fuel problem. If it runs you have a fuel problem if it doesn't you don't. Fire - Check to ...


2

I'm going through similar issues with mine, sometimes it is hard to start. On acceleration medium to hard. It cuts all power till I back off and gently feed it on. Then it's fine once over 2000 rpm. I'm suspect of the hex shaped solenoid that pushes the variable cam timing is either sticking and/or not pushing or pulling. The location of it is on the ...


2

This is a very known problem of this model (Porsche 924). Your WUR (warm up regulator) is faulty, and it needs to be changed. Read this link for more info: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/443505-how-do-i-test-if-warm-up-regulator-bad.html


2

Are you able to ask the previous owner for any history that could point you in the direction of the fault? This needs going back to basics. Check that you actually have petrol in the tank, could be anything in there, check for water or diesel or any other contamination. Don't go by the fuel gauge for tank level, it might be mis-reading. Take out the plugs, ...


2

Your fuel pump might be dead or not getting power. I would check that, it's the most likely, and also the fuel filter. I would also check to see if you get spark at the spark plugs.


2

I'm not a mechanic and have minimal knowledge with cars, so I had it towed to a garage. The mechanic there said it was a bad fuel pump. It's a rather expensive replacement with parts running about $250, and labor costing about $250 (they have to remove the gas tank and everything)


2

I would not worry too much about whether you are going to run out of battery power, especially if you keep the remote-start at a .8 second crank time. You will not burn up enough battery juice to cause yourself any issues. Your battery has several identifiers associated with it. A common one is CCA or Cold Cranking Amps. This shows you what the power output ...


2

See what the spark plugs look like. Are they black and covered in soot/ Has oil leaked past the valve covers and soaked the plugs and wires/ are they wet and smell like gas? Spark plugs cans tell you a whole lot about your air/fuel mix and ignition. Id make sure to check fuel pressure too. make sure pressure doesn't drop too quickly after you turn off the ...


2

"Maintenance Free" doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. "Maintenance Free" means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate ...


2

The problem probably resides in a connection somewhere in your starting system. I would start by disconnecting at the battery, making sure all connections are clean, then re-securing them so they are good and tight. Move your way back on the cables to ensure all other connections are good in the same manner. While you are moving down the cables, ensure there ...


1

I had a vehicle once that would barely make it up hills and also wouldn't go more than 40 MPH or so. The vehicle was much older (1980's), though. The problem ended up being that 2 of the 4 cylinders weren't working due to the spark plug wires had gotten old and weren't transferring the charge from the plugs to the cylinders. While this is a possibility ...


1

On the side of the distributor,youll find a little modem.This can also be a problem and need to be replaced every 30,000 ks to be on the safe side.I did not know some Unos came out with points very interresting. One of the most reliable cars really fantastic.


1

It sounds like you've got a pretty good idea what you're doing already! I'd start by replacing the points & condensor and regapping them, that way you can eliminate one potential problem immediately. The same with the fuel filter - all are quick and cheap and will need doing anyway... Do a compression check as well, to make sure that is good, and ...


1

Bad crank sensor Well, it turns out that the 2nd bullet on my list of things not wrong was incorrect. I had "assumed" that the crank sensor was fine because I had just put a new one in not 3 months ago with a brand new harmonic balancer. Plus it looked perfect as far as a visual inspection. No odd wear or corrosion just a little soot built up on the ...


1

If the engine does not turn over on the first few times of turning the key, then in the light of what you have already had done, the switch on the bottom of your ignition key barrel may be at fault, or you starter motor solonoid sticking. If the engine turns over but does not start, and you have let the glow plug warning light go out, then an ECU relay ...


1

You may wish to read up on gasoline ethanol phase separation. This is an unfortunate scenario where ethanol in your gasoline blend absorbs too much water from the atmosphere and separates into two layers. The bottom layer contains a water/ethanol mixture which kills the engine, the top layer contains a rich mixture of gasoline and a smaller portion of ...


1

It is unusual to hear of a bendix starter motor now days. Most starter motors are known as 'pre-engaged' and have a starter 'pinion' operated by the solonoid. When you turn the key to start with a bendix starter motor, the motor armature spins and the inertia of the bendix causes it to wind itself along its helix, engage with the flywheeel ring gear and then ...


1

I would think that a battery connection or corrosion concern would be the cause. I also would like to point out that diesels do not have distributor caps or spark plugs.



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