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12

I would imagine that this sort of technology would lead to increased wear on your starter motor, as it is being used far more than it would normally be, however I would hope that they would have anticipated this and designed the starter to be more robust than a traditional one. The battery should be able to cope with it fine all the time it is in good ...


9

Potential savings from reduced idling should greatly outweigh any increased wear and tear on starting and charging systems. I answered similar question about idling before (Is idling bad for your engine?). To summarise the negative effects of idling: Fuel combustion is incomplete, which leads to contamination of combustion chamber (glazing), spark plugs ...


9

Air Conditioners are run by a belt that is connected to the crankshaft. The engine turning causes the A/C Compressor to move. When your A/C is not turned on, a clutch disengages the A/C Compressor's internals from the pulley on the belt. This allows that belt to free spin, not adding load onto the engine. When the A/C is turned on, that clutch is engaged ...


9

Some things to check in order of likelihood- The battery may not be fine. Lights are not high load,so having the lights work is not an indicator of how healthy your battery is. Starter motor. Some starter motors stick as the fail, so occasionally a good whack with a piece of wood is required (don't try this if you aren't sure which bit of metal is your ...


8

You've almost certainly got a poor connection on your starter motor solenoid. Find the starter, and there will be a small cylinder on one side of it, with a single small wire going to it (not the big main starter cable). Remove this (it is usually a spade connector) and clean the connectors - if necessary squeeze the female connector on the end of the wire ...


8

Since diesel engines rely on compression to run and not a spark like a gasoline engine, heat is directly involved in the combustion of the diesel in the combustion chamber. The way this occurs is that when the piston comes up it compresses the air which is in the cylinder. This creates heat. When the engine is cold, a lot of this heat gets transferred out of ...


7

I'll take a slightly different stance here - having a vehicle stand for a year or a little longer than that isn't that long, so I'd try to get it running first before I start changing out parts. Here's what I'd do: Drain the carbs if it's not FI. Chances are that the fuel has evaporated and left some residue. If you didn't drain the carbs it might be ...


7

We have a Mk4 TDI Jetta that makes a sound after startup that might be described as a sneeze. I'm fairly confident that it's the starter motor's overrun clutch. As soon as the engine "starts," it begins turning faster than the starter can turn. For this reason, starters have a one-way clutch, called an overrun or sprag clutch. This permits the starter to ...


7

I've a 93 and have had what sounds like the same problem, that is the ignition turns on but when the key is turned further to start the engine it does not always crank the engine. In my case it was the ignition switch and being one not to through money away I took it all apart and cleaned the switch contacts and it's been fine for the past four/five years. ...


6

A good place to start looking is the fuel filter, particularly if you didn't put fuel stabilizer in the tank before putting the bike in storage. You can test to see if it's clogged by blowing on the line-in, but if you don't like gas on your lips fuel filters are cheap, and replacing them regularly is a good idea anyway.


6

You might be interested in this question: What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor? The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).


5

To expand on xpda's answer, and genericise it for any engine that has been standing for some time: Drain and replace the fuel - modern unleaded goes off after a couple of months so won't be any good if it has been standing for longer than that. Replace/clean the fuel filter. Drain and refill the oil. If it has been standing for a long time it would be ...


5

As starter motors get old they can require higher current in order to turn successfully, so despite you having no obvious power problem I would first check your battery - also because this is a simple thing to replace if necessary. It could indeed be the starter solenoid, so having a look at both this and the starter motor itself would probably be my next ...


5

A car needs 3 things to start: Fuel, Air, & Spark. You can do try the following to either rule in or rule out the missing piece: To make sure you're getting air and spark, try taking off the mass air flow cover from your manifold, and spray a little starter fluid directly into the intake, while attempting to start the car. If the car is getting a spark, ...


5

It actually sounds like a fuel supply issue to me. My Eclipse (most likely due to the a difference in the replacement fuel pressure regulator that was installed after the original one failed) isn't able to hold fuel pressure in the rail when off for more than a few hours. So, those "cold" starts all take more cranking and it usually has the same half ...


5

16 mA is very good, many manufactures say 50 - 75 mA is normal. You may have an intermittent parasitic draw. Something may be energizing at some point and drain the battery. One way to test this theory would be to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 3 days. Hook the battery back up, if it cranks without a jump it's a parasitic draw, if it doesn't ...


5

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


5

The other day while I was searching for information on electronic relays, I ran across this solution to your problem: (I found it on this site.) Here is the write up which goes along with it, which I find pretty cool: This is a clever little circuit involving two relays and a momentary switch and is more a of a 'logic' circuit than one used to switch ...


5

If you really want a no-install option, and even @paulster2 answer seems like work then why not use old school locks like gear/steering locks? Or better, this -


4

This issue might take some step-by-step diagnosis to find the source of the issue. Since it sounds like a repeatable issue, it should be able to come up with an educated root cause (instead of just throwing parts at the issue). I think Peter's suggestion is a good place to start (finding any fault codes in the ECU). After that, I would suggest testing the ...


4

I had a similar-sounding problem on a VW New Beetle. The car would start from cold fine, but after 15 minutes of running, it would be very difficult to re-start. It turned out to be a defective coolant temperature sensor. Replacing the sensor fixed the issue immediately. The computer was showing a code of P1296, which indicates a coolant-system defect.


4

I found the problem, and the solution. @Alex warns against having too much on your keyring because of wear and tear on the cylinder. So I examined the cylinder, inserting/extracting the key, but that seemed to be in smooth working order. Then I looked at the key again, and I discovered that it had a bit of a twist in it. So I got out the pliers and ...


4

Because your key works normally when inserted with a specific side up, I suspect the key will have some wear on one side. Can you closely examine both sides to see if there's any difference between the two sides? Since most of the cars are heaving some sort of anti-theft system with a transponder in the key you cannot just replace your key with one from a ...


4

Editing my answer It had happened to me a couple of time and common symptoms that I found are Loose Battery Connection Somehow the battery terminals got loose, tighten it and it will solve the problem. It happened to me before. Jump Start In my latest case, even tighting the termainsl didn't work. I had to get a jump start. Even with jump start the ...


4

I fixed a 1998 Ford Contour that wouldn't start after sitting for a while in cold weather. The problem was a corroded ground connector in the wiring at the fuel pump. A couple years later, it was left sitting again, and sure enough, it wouldn't start. Same problem, same fix. It can happen, though I'm not sure I would have believed it if I hadn't seen it ...


4

The problem turned out to be that a rat chewed up the petrol tube. The mechanic opened the bonnet, and tried to suck out some petrol and nothing came out. Then he got underneath the car and saw the chewed tube. That's why no petrol was reaching the engine. Darn rats!


4

How is your coolant level? If it was dropping slowly over time, that plus the white smoke might indicate a bad head gasket. A cracked head that only leaks when warm could be it, too. Does it smell like Antifreeze?


4

It's possible that your battery has enough charge to light the headlights and dash, but not enough to turn the starter. Typically though in this case you will hear some sort of click when you turn the ignition to "start." Your description says you hear nothing, however. That points me to consider that some sort of an electrical interlock (safety system) is ...


4

Check the compression. If something is causing a loss of compression, like worn piston rings, then that could be the reason for all those problems. Push starts creates higher pressure in the cylinder because it moves the piston faster than a kick start. Also, it could start cold but not warm due to the temp of the air being brought into the cylinder. When an ...


4

Have the battery load tested. I've had several batteries go dead in the same manner: dash lights working just find until you turn the key and it all dies.



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