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9

I would imagine that this sort of technology would lead to increased wear on your starter motor, as it is being used far more than it would normally be, however I would hope that they would have anticipated this and designed the starter to be more robust than a traditional one. The battery should be able to cope with it fine all the time it is in good ...


9

Air Conditioners are run by a belt that is connected to the crankshaft. The engine turning causes the A/C Compressor to move. When your A/C is not turned on, a clutch disengages the A/C Compressor's internals from the pulley on the belt. This allows that belt to free spin, not adding load onto the engine. When the A/C is turned on, that clutch is engaged ...


7

You've almost certainly got a poor connection on your starter motor solenoid. Find the starter, and there will be a small cylinder on one side of it, with a single small wire going to it (not the big main starter cable). Remove this (it is usually a spade connector) and clean the connectors - if necessary squeeze the female connector on the end of the wire ...


7

Some things to check in order of likelihood- The battery may not be fine. Lights are not high load,so having the lights work is not an indicator of how healthy your battery is. Starter motor. Some starter motors stick as the fail, so occasionally a good whack with a piece of wood is required (don't try this if you aren't sure which bit of metal is your ...


7

We have a Mk4 TDI Jetta that makes a sound after startup that might be described as a sneeze. I'm fairly confident that it's the starter motor's overrun clutch. As soon as the engine "starts," it begins turning faster than the starter can turn. For this reason, starters have a one-way clutch, called an overrun or sprag clutch. This permits the starter to ...


6

Potential savings from reduced idling should greatly outweigh any increased wear and tear on starting and charging systems. I answered similar question about idling before (Is idling bad for your engine?). To summarise the negative effects of idling: Fuel combustion is incomplete, which leads to contamination of combustion chamber (glazing), spark plugs ...


6

You might be interested in this question: What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor? The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).


5

A good place to start looking is the fuel filter, particularly if you didn't put fuel stabilizer in the tank before putting the bike in storage. You can test to see if it's clogged by blowing on the line-in, but if you don't like gas on your lips fuel filters are cheap, and replacing them regularly is a good idea anyway.


5

As starter motors get old they can require higher current in order to turn successfully, so despite you having no obvious power problem I would first check your battery - also because this is a simple thing to replace if necessary. It could indeed be the starter solenoid, so having a look at both this and the starter motor itself would probably be my next ...


5

It actually sounds like a fuel supply issue to me. My Eclipse (most likely due to the a difference in the replacement fuel pressure regulator that was installed after the original one failed) isn't able to hold fuel pressure in the rail when off for more than a few hours. So, those "cold" starts all take more cranking and it usually has the same half ...


5

16 mA is very good, many manufactures say 50 - 75 mA is normal. You may have an intermittent parasitic draw. Something may be energizing at some point and drain the battery. One way to test this theory would be to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 3 days. Hook the battery back up, if it cranks without a jump it's a parasitic draw, if it doesn't ...


5

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


4

This issue might take some step-by-step diagnosis to find the source of the issue. Since it sounds like a repeatable issue, it should be able to come up with an educated root cause (instead of just throwing parts at the issue). I think Peter's suggestion is a good place to start (finding any fault codes in the ECU). After that, I would suggest testing the ...


4

I had a similar-sounding problem on a VW New Beetle. The car would start from cold fine, but after 15 minutes of running, it would be very difficult to re-start. It turned out to be a defective coolant temperature sensor. Replacing the sensor fixed the issue immediately. The computer was showing a code of P1296, which indicates a coolant-system defect.


4

I found the problem, and the solution. @Alex warns against having too much on your keyring because of wear and tear on the cylinder. So I examined the cylinder, inserting/extracting the key, but that seemed to be in smooth working order. Then I looked at the key again, and I discovered that it had a bit of a twist in it. So I got out the pliers and ...


4

Because your key works normally when inserted with a specific side up, I suspect the key will have some wear on one side. Can you closely examine both sides to see if there's any difference between the two sides? Since most of the cars are heaving some sort of anti-theft system with a transponder in the key you cannot just replace your key with one from a ...


4

Editing my answer It had happened to me a couple of time and common symptoms that I found are Loose Battery Connection Somehow the battery terminals got loose, tighten it and it will solve the problem. It happened to me before. Jump Start In my latest case, even tighting the termainsl didn't work. I had to get a jump start. Even with jump start the ...


4

I'll take a slightly different stance here - having a vehicle stand for a year or a little longer than that isn't that long, so I'd try to get it running first before I start changing out parts. Here's what I'd do: Drain the carbs if it's not FI. Chances are that the fuel has evaporated and left some residue. If you didn't drain the carbs it might be ...


4

To expand on xpda's answer, and genericise it for any engine that has been standing for some time: Drain and replace the fuel - modern unleaded goes off after a couple of months so won't be any good if it has been standing for longer than that. Replace/clean the fuel filter. Drain and refill the oil. If it has been standing for a long time it would be ...


4

I fixed a 1998 Ford Contour that wouldn't start after sitting for a while in cold weather. The problem was a corroded ground connector in the wiring at the fuel pump. A couple years later, it was left sitting again, and sure enough, it wouldn't start. Same problem, same fix. It can happen, though I'm not sure I would have believed it if I hadn't seen it ...


4

The problem turned out to be that a rat chewed up the petrol tube. The mechanic opened the bonnet, and tried to suck out some petrol and nothing came out. Then he got underneath the car and saw the chewed tube. That's why no petrol was reaching the engine. Darn rats!


4

How is your coolant level? If it was dropping slowly over time, that plus the white smoke might indicate a bad head gasket. A cracked head that only leaks when warm could be it, too. Does it smell like Antifreeze?


4

It's possible that your battery has enough charge to light the headlights and dash, but not enough to turn the starter. Typically though in this case you will hear some sort of click when you turn the ignition to "start." Your description says you hear nothing, however. That points me to consider that some sort of an electrical interlock (safety system) is ...


4

Have the battery load tested. I've had several batteries go dead in the same manner: dash lights working just find until you turn the key and it all dies.


4

If your last paragraph is the question, I think it is far too broad. You would be best off getting the manual and with its help: reconnecting anything that should be connected cleaning anything dirty or full of insects etc check continuity of all wires individually and replace any that are faulty check spark plugs check air inlets move all mechanical parts ...


4

Definitely just insufficient current to run the starter motor. What happens (causing the flashing/clicking) is that when you turn the key, the starter relay/solenoid switches on, and the starter motor pulls all the available current, dropping the battery voltage extremely low. It can no longer power the relay, so the relay springs back and the load (starter ...


4

Start from the beginning. Check your battery. Then check your fried cables. Try to fix as much as possible. Make sure nothing is short-circuited. If all looks good, pull out the electric wiring diagram and identify all the items which prevents it from starting. Measure all these points and make sure there is no short/open circuits. The obvious would be: ...


4

I tried again, this time connecting the positive battery lead to the low-amp solenoid input terminal (which was harder to reach -- that's why I didn't try it before) instead of directly to the starter motor, and it started just fine. So presumably the solenoid must be actuating some kind of mechanical linkage between the starter motor and engine rather than ...


4

You have a flat battery - use either a charger or a jump-start from another car (there are plenty of questions on here and guides elsewhere as to how to jump start) to charge the battery.


4

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...



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