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9

Your battery was dead. In many cars, when the battery can't provide enough cranking amps, you will hear a clicking instead of the normal starting sound. The starter battery draws a lot of current. When that happens, the voltage available to the rest of the system drops dramatically, especially if the battery is weak. That's why your clock reset itself. ...


7

As I’ve read, alternative starting systems nowadays used mostly in commercial, industrial and emergency applications, where it is mission-critical to get it started, such as back-up power generator in the hospital, fire pump on an oil rig, or a life boat. Redundancy is required in some of these situations; in others there is no other option even. There are ...


7

Upon the regular engine starting key turn area the dash lights dim and there maybe a single 'tch sound or no sound at all coming from the engine block. Sadly, I know this sound well. This sounds like a dead battery. Here are the steps that I would suggest: Charge the battery with a plug-in battery charger. They aren't terribly expensive to ...


6

You should be fine in that instance. I wouldn't make a habit of it. The rule I was taught was crank for no more than 15 seconds and let the started cool for a few minutes in between. The goal is to keep the starter from overheating so your time is cumulative. It shouldn't take more than 3 - 5 seconds of cranking to start the engine. Based on that you could ...


5

It sounds to me like a dead battery. Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an open circuit battery terminal voltage of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery. What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box ...


5

As starter motors get old they can require higher current in order to turn successfully, so despite you having no obvious power problem I would first check your battery - also because this is a simple thing to replace if necessary. It could indeed be the starter solenoid, so having a look at both this and the starter motor itself would probably be my next ...


5

It depends specifically on what's wrong with the starter. Sometimes you hear a clicking sound when you turn the key but the starter motor gears don't actually turn. This could actually be due to a weak battery, but if you know the battery has a full charge, then it could be the starter gears actually failing to turn. You may hear a whining sound, ...


5

This sounds like a classic case of "heat soak". In most Chevy V-8's the exhaust pipe runs very close to the starter. The starter absorbs the heat, the heat increases the electrical resistance along with expanding the metal parts. The combination of the two can result in sluggish starts when the engine is hot. The symptons get worse as the starter ages. The ...


4

If the dash lights dim and the starter doesn't turn, it's usually either the battery going bad or the starter that's at fault. I'd check the battery voltage both without any consumers and with someone trying to operate the starter motor and would expect at least 12.8V (no load) and about 10V (trying to start), otherwise the battery is dead. If the battery ...


4

It's possible that your battery has enough charge to light the headlights and dash, but not enough to turn the starter. Typically though in this case you will hear some sort of click when you turn the ignition to "start." Your description says you hear nothing, however. That points me to consider that some sort of an electrical interlock (safety system) is ...


4

Mine has just such a fancy emergency backup starting device. It's called a "manual transmission". Push starts great with a dead battery. Only downside would be the serial killer chasing me, and well, that's what they make concealed weapons licenses for...


4

You should do a load test on your battery and see if you have a damaged cell. If this is not the case, check for a parasitic draw test on your vehicle, which basically tells you if something is on and draining your battery.


4

It certainly shouldn't hurt anything, but it is unlikely to help either as the wires to your starter should be appropriate anyway. If your wiring is old then you may see an improvement, otherwise I would suggest leaving it alone.


4

I tried again, this time connecting the positive battery lead to the low-amp solenoid input terminal (which was harder to reach -- that's why I didn't try it before) instead of directly to the starter motor, and it started just fine. So presumably the solenoid must be actuating some kind of mechanical linkage between the starter motor and engine rather than ...


3

First, sorry for my bad English. I think it is because a modern battery is more reliable, from the car manufacturer's point-of-view, so they remove the unneeded crank system alternative. Dead batteries may be very common -- yes, it got me multiple times on my old car -- but if you are maintaining your car regularly as the manufacturer suggests, you might ...


3

Could be the carbon brushes that are almost worn out. These brushes ensure the electrical connection between the stationary and rotary parts of the starter motor. Tapping the motor could shift the position of one or both brushes enough to make a connection, thus rotating the motor. Brushes are probably comparatively cheap and potentially easy to replace. ...


3

A loose battery terminal can exhibit the same symptom. Carefully check both ends of your main (thick) battery cables to ensure that they're tight and not overly corroded, etc.


3

99% of the time, the symptoms that you describe are a dead or dying battery. Charging the battery or jumpstarting the car should work. The 'green stuff' is caused by the terminal oxidising - it's not good to have it on there but I doubt it'll affect the connection enough to make the battery unusable. Often, carefully pouring hot water over it will dissolve ...


3

If you believe it's not the battery, it could be your starter motor solenoid. I've had a solenoid go on a couple of cars I've owned, it seems to be quite a common thing. The solenoid is what you hear clicking when it can't get enough current to turn the motor over, but it could also be on it's way out and getting stuck perhaps. Usually when a starter motor ...


3

Sticky solenoid like Mac said. Or, a loose ground strap. Or, just a dead spot on the starter. It certainly can happen. It's probably something that replacing the starter would fix, but not necessarily (example being the one I had where it was a ground strap the detached and was just sometimes resting in the right spot. Replacing the starter didn't help, ...


3

Doesn't sound like a flex plate or starter issue based on your description. A video would help to identify the sound. Does anything make the sound better or worse? Does it do it all the time? From under the hood where does it sound like the sound is coming from? You can use a mechanical stethoscope or a long screwdriver to find the location of the noise. ...


3

A less than optimal battery and a functioning solenoid you would at least get the bendix to actuate. The less than optimal battery, would not supply enough power to have the starter actually rotate the engine. This is usually audiable with a quickly repeating clicking type noise and other times by one "click" [and usually the driver cussing and pounding on ...


3

This sounds like there is an issue with the ground at the battery. Sometimes it appears there is a good connection there (especially when using side post terminals), yet there is only enough of a connection to allow the low amperage stuff to work. Then, when you turn the key, the starter starts to engage, but then continuity is lost because there is not ...


2

If you've tested the battery and determined that the battery is good, and if a jump start doesn't solve the problem, you could remove the starter motor and take it to an auto-parts store or a mechanic. They can test the starter motor independent of the other systems in the car. While the motor is out, you can also inspect it for damage. On most cars ...


2

You should also check the battery connections. Make sure they are clean and secure.


2

However you hooked up that alarm, disconnect it, and make sure it is good and disconnected. If that alarm was what drained your original battery in the first place, it's probably still not working and draining your battery and shorting out your electrical system. Then, take that new battery right back to autozone and convince them to trade it for a new one, ...


2

The PMGR stands for permanent magnet gear reduction. I can't find anything on SD255. Doing some searching at Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts showed images that all looked the same, a typical Chevy starter. I would contact a local parts store see if they have one in stock. Pull your starter out bring it with you to match it up and have it tested. Most stores ...


2

Oil in the coolant reservoir is usually a pretty bad sign! Are there signs of coolant in the oil as well (a creamy mayonnaise-like substance)? Either of those are signs of Head Gasket failure, which would eventually stop the engine from starting, but would normally give a lot of other signs first... You say it started off as an intermittant problem - is it ...


2

No start is classified into two categories, cranking and non cranking. Cranking is when you hear the engine turning over but not starting. Where the fault would be in your ignition system. If this is the case check: - spark plugs - wires - distributor (if applicable) - Ignition coil - Starter If there is a no cranking, that means there is a fault in the ...


2

If your motorcycle uses an electric starter (as opposed to a kick starter), the starter will draw far & away more current than the ignition system - like perhaps fifty times as much. A bike with only a kick starter only needs a tiny battery, while one with only an electric starter requires a big one. When battery capacity is too low, generally both the ...



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