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6

Many new cars do in have "a sensor system that constantly monitors oil viscosity, conductivity, temperature and electrical parameters." See here: http://www.sensorland.com/AppPage064.html GM for example has been incorporating these into its Camaros, the Lambda platform, various Buicks, and more. Here is another link that might prove helpful to you: ...


5

This is a very common failure in the Nissan's. The part number on the 2001/2002 Model Year MAF Sensor was 22680-6N200. This part has been known for a very high failure rate. It was later superceeded by part numbers 22680-6N201 and 22680-AM600. One of these two parts should be the one that you are ordering for the vehicle. If in any case these are not ...


4

The first O2 sensor is the one that the ECU uses to set the fuel-air mixture. If you had a problem with your first O2 sensor, the car would not run at its best. This error is on the second O2 sensor, sometimes called the "tattletail" sensor. On your Jetta, the second sensor is basically responsible only for turning on the "check engine" light if the ...


3

I am not positive from the picture but if that is screwed into the steering rack it's the Front sub-steering angle sensor. If it's in a hose which seems more likely to me it's the power steering pressure switch. Pictured below Link to Autozone site for part Power steering pressure switch reports power steering high pressures to the on-board computer ...


3

I would get a reversing camera instead. You can get the type that is mounted on the license plate and then you can either get a radio/headunit which supports backup cams or get a rearview mirror which has a backup display. Personally I would try to get a rearview mirror one. I think you can get the mirror for about ~$500 with the camera but I don't remember ...


3

A quick way to check your O2 sensor, is to record all the codes (On paper, or whatever) and swap the sensors. If the code goes to bank 2, than you know you need a sensor. These are sometimes hard to find, due to the many things that can trigger an O2 fault. This is just a quick way to check the sensors, just be sure to reset the codes after recording them.


3

Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the sensor downstream of the catalytic converter. Bank 1 Sensor 1 would be upstream of the catalytic converter. With a 4 cylinder, everything should be Bank 1 (No Bank 2). So, Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the one under the car. The one on/at the exhaust manifold should be Bank 1 Sensor 1. You might eyeball the wiring and / or ...


3

I caved (mainly since it is dangerous to keep driving it like it is) and brought it to my local mechanic. He says it is the Idle Air Intake control. I am not going to accept this answer until I can do a test drive. EDIT: Well my mechanic was right on the nose. The replacement worked like a charm.


3

After much Googling and trying to interpret vague descriptions on internet forums, I have discovered that this is apparently the ambient temperature sensor, used to display the outside temperature on the center console. It is normally mounted in front of the radiator, in the center-ish of the front grill with a plastic clip. Unless someone has some ...


2

It sounds like you just don't know the characteristics of the output of the fuel level sender in the vehicle--perhaps learning more about that sensor would solve your problem. In terms of an alternate solution that does not use the fuel level sender, if the vehicle is a modern one with electronic fuel injection, then it is possible to determine the ...


2

Some of them have a GPS reciever, accelerometers and a phone in them, and regularly upload data back to the insurance companies - some of the ones that have been featured on the TV in the UK come with online accounts so you can log in and see the performance data. I've never quite worked out how they are supposed to cope with multiple drivers in the same ...


2

Your behaviour could affect her premium then - these black boxes typically track speed, style of driving, how harsh you are on acceleration and braking, the times of day you drive etc. They collect this data all the time - some insurers collect data from them regularly, others only in the event of an accident - either way, if you do not stick to the driving ...


2

Sounds like one of two scenarios depending on the design. -58 is the lower limit and happens whenever the sensor has no connection, or a direct connection. The first step is to unplug the sensor and look at the temp if it goes to -58 then you have a loose or open connection somewhere between the sensor and the computer. If when you unplug the sensor it ...


2

If the injectors are fired electrically(which they most likely are), you could wire in a voltage-switch to the injectors, so that it is closed when the injector is fired. This would allow you to measure the time spent open, and do a little math based on the flow-rate of the injector to get a calculated measurement of the fuel injected into the system. If ...


2

You don't mention the type of engine you've got or the age. Older engines that are fitted with distributors and mechanical ignition systems typically drive their tachometers off the coil trigger wire, as this pulses each time a spark plug is fired. If that is the case, you simply need to connect a suitable tacho to the -ve terminal of the coil (i.e. the ...


2

My worry about the electromagnetic one is that while it is good at picking up metal objects that you may hit, they aren't so good at organic objects. Ultrasonic reversing sensors are good at detecting solid objects, but not so good at soft objects. As solid objects are important to identify, whether or not they are metal, the ultrasonic sensors are, in my ...


2

Wiring problem? Unplug the connector and check the pins with a multimeter. If it looks alive, trace the wiring from the connector as far as you can. If you're lucky you'll be able to visually see a problem, it not, you'll have to probe the wires until you find the fault. If it's actually dead at the sensor, are you sure you've got the correct part? ...


2

I would think you should be able to if there is a terminal for the wire to attach to. If the terminal has broke off at the base of the sensor, then it probably won't work. I would use a soldering iron, versus open flame type of iron to ensure the heat is more localized. If you are worried about the sensor not working due to the heat, I don't think I would ...


2

As Brian alluded to in his comment, in most cases it will not work. You have to have a reader which will read OBD-I. Some readers, like the Innova 3140 will read both, and comes with all of the adapters to attach to the "older" vehicles. Brian also stated about the change to OBD-II. In the US it was mandated to change over in '96. Some manufactures changed ...


1

The info I have found under the federal emissions warranty says it is covered for 8 years or 80,000 miles. If you have had all the service work done at the dealer I would complain to the dealer, the Nissan area rep. and anyone else who will listen. The next thing I would do is get a second opinion. Find out why it failed so it doesn't happen again. Check ...


1

It is possible to read data from most vehicles' OBD port using a relatively cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter and some client software. Some GPS units have bluetooth, or you could opt for a USB-style OBD plug. This would also allow you to read things like engine load, temperature, rpm, etc. Wikipedia entry OBD Software OBD2 bluetooth adapter


1

I'd also go with calibrating the existing sensor, but I'd do it the other way around to mac. Start with an empty tank and measure the voltage. add a known volume of fuel, measureagain. repeat until the tank is full. This will give you a series of reference points, and obviously the smaller the volume you add each time, the better the resolution of your ...


1

Very much engine specific. One of my cars has a replacement engine block that came from a car that only had a cam angle sensor (and mine requires cam AND crank angle sensors). Even though it's technically the same block other than the one sensor hole missing it was still a bit of an ordeal. A hole had to be drilled and tapped (very carefully), seals ...


1

Long shot, but do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running, might be a faulty alternator. There's a chance you may have developed a vacuum leak, are you handy? You can do this yourself with a bottle of brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Spray around the engine bay (not coolant hoses, but vacuum specifically) and ...



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