Hot answers tagged sensor
6
Many new cars do in have "a sensor system that constantly monitors oil viscosity, conductivity, temperature and electrical parameters." See here: http://www.sensorland.com/AppPage064.html
GM for example has been incorporating these into its Camaros, the Lambda platform, various Buicks, and more.
Here is another link that might prove helpful to you: ...
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The first O2 sensor is the one that the ECU uses to set the fuel-air mixture. If you had a problem with your first O2 sensor, the car would not run at its best.
This error is on the second O2 sensor, sometimes called the "tattletail" sensor. On your Jetta, the second sensor is basically responsible only for turning on the "check engine" light if the ...
3
I caved (mainly since it is dangerous to keep driving it like it is) and brought it to my local mechanic. He says it is the Idle Air Intake control. I am not going to accept this answer until I can do a test drive.
EDIT: Well my mechanic was right on the nose. The replacement worked like a charm.
3
I am not positive from the picture but if that is screwed into the steering rack it's the Front sub-steering angle sensor.
If it's in a hose which seems more likely to me it's the power steering pressure switch.
Pictured below
Link to Autozone site for part
Power steering pressure switch reports power steering high pressures to the on-board computer ...
3
I would get a reversing camera instead. You can get the type that is mounted on the license plate and then you can either get a radio/headunit which supports backup cams or get a rearview mirror which has a backup display. Personally I would try to get a rearview mirror one. I think you can get the mirror for about ~$500 with the camera but I don't remember ...
2
My worry about the electromagnetic one is that while it is good at picking up metal objects that you may hit, they aren't so good at organic objects.
Ultrasonic reversing sensors are good at detecting solid objects, but not so good at soft objects.
As solid objects are important to identify, whether or not they are metal, the ultrasonic sensors are, in my ...
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Sounds like one of two scenarios depending on the design. -58 is the lower limit and happens whenever the sensor has no connection, or a direct connection.
The first step is to unplug the sensor and look at the temp if it goes to -58 then you have a loose or open connection somewhere between the sensor and the computer. If when you unplug the sensor it ...
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If the injectors are fired electrically(which they most likely are), you could wire in a voltage-switch to the injectors, so that it is closed when the injector is fired. This would allow you to measure the time spent open, and do a little math based on the flow-rate of the injector to get a calculated measurement of the fuel injected into the system. If ...
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A quick way to check your O2 sensor, is to record all the codes (On paper, or whatever) and swap the sensors. If the code goes to bank 2, than you know you need a sensor. These are sometimes hard to find, due to the many things that can trigger an O2 fault. This is just a quick way to check the sensors, just be sure to reset the codes after recording them.
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Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the sensor downstream of the catalytic converter. Bank 1 Sensor 1 would be upstream of the catalytic converter. With a 4 cylinder, everything should be Bank 1 (No Bank 2).
So, Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the one under the car. The one on/at the exhaust manifold should be Bank 1 Sensor 1.
You might eyeball the wiring and / or ...
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You don't mention the type of engine you've got or the age.
Older engines that are fitted with distributors and mechanical ignition systems typically drive their tachometers off the coil trigger wire, as this pulses each time a spark plug is fired. If that is the case, you simply need to connect a suitable tacho to the -ve terminal of the coil (i.e. the ...
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Very much engine specific. One of my cars has a replacement engine block that came from a car that only had a cam angle sensor (and mine requires cam AND crank angle sensors). Even though it's technically the same block other than the one sensor hole missing it was still a bit of an ordeal. A hole had to be drilled and tapped (very carefully), seals ...
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Wiring problem? Unplug the connector and check the pins with a multimeter. If it looks alive, trace the wiring from the connector as far as you can. If you're lucky you'll be able to visually see a problem, it not, you'll have to probe the wires until you find the fault. If it's actually dead at the sensor, are you sure you've got the correct part?
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Long shot, but do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running, might be a faulty alternator.
There's a chance you may have developed a vacuum leak, are you handy? You can do this yourself with a bottle of brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Spray around the engine bay (not coolant hoses, but vacuum specifically) and ...
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