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5

Your best bet is actually going to your local Mitsubishi dealer, make sure you have your registration/insurance with you. Should be able to provide it free of charge.


4

It sounds like the lock on your driver's door is stuck (leading to the first symptom), which has led to it constantly sending the "lock" signal to the central locking, causing the second symptom. If you can get the door open, you should be able to disconnect the central locking wiring from the lock to stop it locking the other doors, then investigate why ...


4

If you really want a no-install option, and even @paulster2 answer seems like work then why not use old school locks like gear/steering locks? Or better, this -


4

The other day while I was searching for information on electronic relays, I ran across this solution to your problem: (I found it on this site.) Here is the write up which goes along with it, which I find pretty cool: This is a clever little circuit involving two relays and a momentary switch and is more a of a 'logic' circuit than one used to switch ...


4

One answer is simply to wait - according to the manual, after 5 hours the immobilizer will reset, and in fact the next morning the car started fine. I took it into a independent Volvo shop today, and was told that the connection on the antenna ring sometimes goes bad, but the ring itself rarely needs to be replaced - taking off the connector and spraying ...


3

GoPro has a multicamera configuration where you can align the time and merge all of the feeds into a multi screen single interface feed. They store the video centrally in a wifi enabled storage device using 802.11g Most of the commercial solutions are cost prohibitive.


3

Before the advent of engine immobilisers, the typical attack was to pop the door open, pull hard left and right on the steering wheel (one or two people) to break the steering lock, followed by either using a screwdriver to turn the lock barrel or to short circuit the live wire from the battery to the switched wire to the ignition. This could be done in a ...


2

How about something like the Lock Box KeyGuard Pro?


2

If you want to bypass your antitheft, you can attach one of your PATS keys inside your steering collumn by the lock cylinder. This will make the car always 'see' a key with a chip. You caqn then use a regular steel key. This is also a 'cheater' fix when installing remote starts on cars with PATS so you don't need to buy a module.


2

According to this source it's possible to program door lock/unlock with a $35 "blank" remote. The immobiliser part of it is unfortunately a bit more high tech (like you would hope). All you need to do is a set sequence with the ignition and remote to reprogram it. I'm not sure if the model's of the fit remote they are talking about and your 2011 are ...


2

According to this website: There is no onboard programming procedure for this vehicle. This vehicle requires special equipment be connected to the vehicle to program the keyless remote. Try a locksmith before the dealership, they are usually 50% the cost. You'll have to purchase a replacement key/fob (or two) and then take it somewhere to have it ...


1

Laminated glass will not prevent a tooled-up person, intent on entry to a vehicle, from entering it. Laminated auto glass is essentially a safety measure. It does not shatter and splinter throwing bits of glass around on impact. To prevent entry, even by bullets, a special type of laminated 'glass' made from poly-carbonated plastics are used. These are ...


1

SOLUTION: As is turns out, I was not connected to the VATS resistor value/ground reference wires at all. The PLJX instructions SUCK and give almost no info on VATS systems while everything is written up more for the older Passlock I and II systems. I had followed the instructions as spot-on as I could and found the yellow/black/green wire that was inside a ...


1

You would probably have to have someone recode your ECU, as they are usually intertwined with the anti-theft system to ensure the engine will not start. I don't think they can really be disabled easily thought. Cars with systems like this can be triggered by bad keys as well, so check that out. The key can and will go bad, and this could make you think the ...


1

If it's a third-party alarm, you can probably just disconnect it from the battery. There should be a thinner red wire running from either the positive battery terminal or a positive auxiliary connection possibly near the battery. If the alarm also came with remote-start, we'll have to discuss a different solution. Depending on the system you might need it ...



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