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17

Your owners manual should tell you how often to replace the spark plugs in addition to that I would inspect the spark plugs every 5000 miles. Spark Plug Conditions Normal operation will show a light tan or gray color. The gap clearance will be slight with very little deposits on the insulator tip. A plug that indicates replacement will show ...


11

Background While various items such as maintenance and ease of tire removal are cited for the SSSA (Single Sided Swing Arm) design, initial testing and development of all these designs were started on the racetrack. Honda initially released their version of the SSSA with NSR250R. image of an NSR250R All of the early SSSA's were developed for racing ...


9

It will not damage the engine at all. All that will happen is that it will run richer, thus using more fuel. If you did it for thousands of miles you'd probably end up with more deposits in the engine/exhaust, but even that is easy to sort.


5

There are scientific explanations for this. The long and short of it is that the rear tire bears the most weight just the same as a bicycle. ( Brian, if you weren't in OH I'd say let's go for a ride so that I can witness your phenomenon ) http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14517/why-do-i-always-get-punctures-in-my-rear-wheel ...


5

As a 35 year veteran motorcycle rider and owner of 15 different bikes during that time, while I don't dispute the unsprung weight argument made by DucatiKiller, I can tell you that there is a much, much, much more practical reason for using a single sided swing arm: It dramatically simplifies chain maintenance. You see, with a double sided swing arm, you ...


5

Your experiencing fouled plugs. Fouled plugs have carbon buildup that grounds the electrode of the spark plugs over the ceramic with carbon. The carbon buildup occurs because the AFR (Air Fuel Ration) is too rich. This makes the combustion process, when you fuel is burned, too cool. Since combustion is too cool carbon buildup occurs on your sparkplug and ...


4

I guess this is hearsay, but I have a couple of friends who store a scooter and a 125 learner motorbike in their apartments, and they don't leak any oil or petrol - they are quite new though, so what I would advise is to have a good look at the scooter to see how old it is - if the engine is old it may have worn seals etc which may leak. In any case, get ...


4

Tire Pressure correct, less rolling resistance. Weight reduction: You, cargo, and extra accessories. The less weight the better the fuel economy. Slow smooth acceleration, no jack rabbit starts Anticipate stops, let off the accelerator early to start slowing down as opposed to keeping the gas on longer and using the brake harder. Eliminate unnecessary ...


4

Check the compression. If something is causing a loss of compression, like worn piston rings, then that could be the reason for all those problems. Push starts creates higher pressure in the cylinder because it moves the piston faster than a kick start. Also, it could start cold but not warm due to the temp of the air being brought into the cylinder. When an ...


4

If your last paragraph is the question, I think it is far too broad. You would be best off getting the manual and with its help: reconnecting anything that should be connected cleaning anything dirty or full of insects etc check continuity of all wires individually and replace any that are faulty check spark plugs check air inlets move all mechanical parts ...


4

You can try heating it with a torch to loosen it. You could also get a reverse-direction drill bit, and drill down into the bolt; the heat will help the reverse bit to unscrew it, and if not then you can easily get the remainder of the bolt out by stepping up bit sizes.


4

The information provided by DucatiKiller is excellent. I believe the biggest advantage is access, which makes wheel changes and maintenance arguably easier. This could also translate to pit-lane advantage in racing situations. Particular case - in the case with Ninja H2R - Having a single-sided swingarm allows the exhaust pipe to be mounted ...


4

Based on my limited knowledge on scooters courtesy of owning one for about 3 years and assuming your scooter is carb and has similar mechanism (BTW not able to Google your make and model it's rare) First of all check the carburettor. If the carb is blocked then you will notice the symptoms which you have mentioned , blockage at higher throttle. Check the ...


3

The first things to check that come to mind... Make sure all the fuses are in place. He could have pulled one or more. check that the spark plug wires are connected tightly to the spark plugs and distributor. check the electrical connections on the ignition coil. check the electrical connections for the fuel pump and fuel injection if it is injected. make ...


3

I don't think you'll have any issues. If you continue to be worried about it, you should be able to pull the caps off of the top of the battery to check the fluid level within. You should be able to see the electrolyte at almost the top. If you don't, then I would take it back to the shop where you had it fitted and get them involved in getting it up to ...


3

The 'worst case scenario' that I can think of is this. Your spark plugs become fouled because the motor ran too rich and the bike doesn't start. You would need to remove the spark plugs and clean them with a carb or brake cleaner and re-install them. Don't worry about your vehicle. It's fine.


3

Instead of recreating the wheel, here are some pretty good reasons why you need to do a break-in on any engine, be it a motorcycle or a car. I found it on this page. I don't necessarily agree with everything the person says on the page, so I'll leave the rest of the reading up to you. The What: Every new engine has internal components that must be ...


3

The two hoses in question can be identified by using a can of carburetor cleaner with the red hose attachment and squirting into the nipples for the hoses to see where the fluid emerges. I suspect the nipple on the top of the carb by the auto choke could be a vacuum line. This is frequently where they are placed. The vacuum line may need to goto a ...


3

What is the most probable cause for this? In the most general terms, the engine isn't running because there is either too much air or too much fuel. Can the cause be that the machine was not in use for some months? Is it true that petrol may "become old" after some month so it does not burn anymore correctly? It is possible, especially if the ...


2

Sounds like you are talking about a Vespa PX - according to the manual you should get 260Km on a tank. I think this is if you are a very small Italian and travel at a constant 60km/hr. Specs for newer Vespas like the GTS 250 have to conform to EU measurement standards and therefore are more realalistic. Your 150 km is about what I get for mixed riding - I ...


2

Open up the variator and check the rollers. You will need an impact wrench or a holding tool to get the flywheel cover off. The variator is in the front of the transmission. When you inspect the rollers, look for cracks or flat spots. While you're in there, check the belt as well. Order new rollers just in case, they're less than $20. The cheapo ones that ...


2

It sounds as though the clutch may be slipping during engagement. Depending on the brand there are ways to adjust the automatic clutch to engage at a lower RPM.


2

While I don't think there can be a specific answer (it may be due to your bad luck, or whatever), it may come down to the fact there is more weight on the back tire than on the front. The front tire can more easily overcome a puncturing obstacle such a nail or a screw, which the back tire picks up. It may also be that the front tire kicks up the obstacle and ...


2

The upper hose that you found cut and zip tied is likely to be a vacuum line, rather than a fuel supply line. (image credit www.scootusa.com) If so, the fact that it is cut and plugged should not be causing your failure to start, it is likely an emissions-related feature that is activated when you get off the gas.


2

It would be nice to see some pictures of your carb, because each carb is different. But let's see... There's usually a drain screw at the bottom of the carb, which allows to drain accumulated water and/or fuel from the floating chamber. There's typically a port for a hose, which just leads to the ground. I.e. this hose is not connected anywhere. If the ...


2

Plug Here is a link to an answer concerning spark plugs. If you cannot place your's against the chart, please post a picture and I can help you further. Make sure the spark plug is gapped correctly. Points As @DucatiKiller pointed out in this other question of yours, check the color of the spark coming from your spark plug when not installed in the engine. ...


2

Sometimes A float gets "waterlogged" (so saturated with fuel that it just won't float anymore.) The float could be bent in position. Worn tip on float needle Worn o-ring in the float seat Excess dirt and varnish in the carburetor. (Varnish deposits occur when fuel sits too long..) The best thing to do is remove and examine the carburetor. Take it ...


1

Try to unplug your spark plug and then kick start it. Watch the tip of the spark plug, if it doesn't make any spark try to replace this spark plug.


1

Just remembered that I hadn't posted an answer to this and thought I would just in case someone else has a similar situation. I ended up taking off the ignition cylinder myself (was easier than I thought). Turns out that the ignition cylinder had a a metal rod inside of it that is supposed to turn when you turn the key but it was broken so instead of ...


1

Agree with @mikes ... your issue is lack of fuel. That "hollow/rattling" noise is pre-ignition/knocking caused by a lean fuel condition. If you keep trying to run your scooter like this, you will blow the piston out of it (if you haven't caused damage already). You'll probably need to rejet the carb and get more fuel into the system. The reason why it ...



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