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11

Because you are uncertain of the history of the car, you should take the view that nothing has been done yet. A quick checklist is: Engine Oil & Filter Radiator fluid (also get one of the good cleaners that you leave in the car for ~200 miles, but be careful as the outside temperature cannot get below freezing while this cleaner is in your system). ...


8

Saturn had a recall on this problem on L-Series vehicles. You may be having a similar problem on the S Series although I cannot find any information on it for your vehicle. Below is the recall info on the L-Series. 2000 - 2002 Saturn L-Series Vehicles (All Models) # 02-C-02 - (Aug 16, 2004) INACCURATE ODOMETER READING AFTER LOSS OF BATTERY POWER ...


7

The 'offset' is the distance between the mounting face of the wheel (i.e. the bit that sits against the hub) and the centreline of the wheel. A positive offset is where the mounting face is towards the outside of the wheel, and negative is set towards the inside. Therefore, if you get wheels that are more positive than the current ones, they will sit ...


5

I'd check the ground strap/contact to ground from the blinker to the chassis first. Chances are there's a problem with it an it "grounds" via another bulb when you also apply the brake. Using a multimeter, check the resistance from the ground on the bulb holder against the chassis first, then check blinker ground against both contacts for the brake light. ...


5

I found a site called actron.com that describes OBDII codes. Autozone explains what the camshaft position sensor is. Camshaft Position Sensor Actuator Operation The Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator is attached to each camshaft and is hydraulically operated in order to change the angle of the camshaft relative to Crankshaft Position ...


5

Most likely cause is a bad motor. Give the bottom of the door panel a good whack. Careful if it's cold as you can crack the door panel. This may be enough to jar the brushes in the motor to make it work long enough to get the window up. Another way to tell if it's the window motor is with the dome light on, watch the light when you push the up or down ...


4

Fuel filler neck or pipe, it connects to a rubber hose (8) that connects to the tank (1). Hose clamps (9) are used to secure the hose. If it come loose from the tank then you need to tighten the clamps. If the filler neck is coming a loose from the fender area then you need to tighten or replace the fasteners there. It doesn't look like it's sold separately ...


4

This link should prove useful if you've not found an answer yet. According to that they're identical.


4

Here is how this could have happened on the 2002 BMW I used to own. I know the guts of that car particularly well, I am sure the Saturn is similar. The mileage is actually stored in two places in the car. One place is the instrument cluster and the second is in the DME (the "computer"), both of those will count up the miles independently. If the cluster ...


4

If your car was running ok, then the alternator was at least providing charge. The fact you couldn't turn it on again after stopping suggests the battery was not holding any charge. So my initial guess would be battery (after eventually deciphering your question I realise you already tried replacing that) I'd suggest you do also look at the alternator as ...


3

It appears to me you bought a car which had the mileage rolled back on it. The only way I'd consider myself wrong in this is if you bought it new. When an odometer has been tampered with, sometimes they stay where they are supposed to and other times it can revert. This really depends on the vehicle and the device used to monkey with the odometer. The ...


3

I recently picked up an old Mercedes. Previous owner said he'd switched out the fluids... that he'd been a mechanic for a number of years. Long story short, NEVER trust previous owners... particularly when it comes to fluids. They don't even have to be dishonest, they might just be incompetent or lazy. Fouled oil carries a bunch of crap in it that will ...


3

This is what the mechanism should look like. You'll have to find a way to get at the three gold screws that hold the motor to the rest of the assembly. This will allow you to disengage the motor, so the rest of the assembly can move freely. Be careful: once you disengage the motor the window could drop and break. You'll want to get somebody to hold it, ...


3

I caved (mainly since it is dangerous to keep driving it like it is) and brought it to my local mechanic. He says it is the Idle Air Intake control. I am not going to accept this answer until I can do a test drive. EDIT: Well my mechanic was right on the nose. The replacement worked like a charm.


3

sounds like the cylinder head became warped or cracked during the overheating. I'm not familiar with your car so it may be possible it's just the head gasket and not the actual head. Cylinder heads have "caverns" and ports to circulate coolant and oil throughout the head, but normally seperately. if they are mixing, something is very wrong. i would advise ...


3

I would take a guess at a faulty ignition switch. The radio usually comes on with the ignition witch in position 1, but the ignition in position 2. The radio stopped working, then after turning the switch, the ignition stopped working.


3

If I am correct, the CMP signal is generated by the ICM, the engine doesn't actually have a cam position sensor. The ICM monitors the difference in voltages on the HT coils to work out which cylinders are on the compression cycle. This will explain why the CMP and CKP signals are shifting relative to each other. The synthesised CMP signal is sent to the ...


2

After you stated that you have to wait for it cool before it will run again is an indication that the crankshaft position sensor has failed. You should have a look at how to replace it on your vehicle. It's usually found on either the transmission bell housing (reading off of the flywheel as it rotates) or near the crank pulley at the lower front of the ...


2

It is possible that it is the crank position sensor. My friends trunk had the same problem. It would start and run for maybe 10 minutes then sputter out and die and not be able start again for hours. Turned out to be a crank position sensor.


2

My suggestion is that the filament inside of the bulb is loose. When you rap on it, it reconnect briefly, which lights the bulb. It will continue to do this until it completely burns out. This will probably require a replacement bulb to fix.


2

Being a skeptic about such things, I did some research on the internet about the voltage stabilizers. There seems to be several different manufacturers out there, which all claim the same basic thing: Improved audio quality. Increased torque and response and power. Stabilized idling and improved engine kick over. Increased headlight brightness. ...


2

This would depend on the type of car you have. The majority of valve covers i've come across are aluminum. You can try some RTV sealant or Hondabond sealant (pretty popular solution for this) in place of a valve cover gasket. The sealant should mold itself around all the gaps and irregularities in your valve cover, making for a better seal. If that ...


2

I ended up pulling them through by tightening an old lug nut onto the new stud with a spacer between the nut and the hub using this technique: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX9te2iFH3E except with with a regular lug wrench instead of an impact wrench. Well actually my dad did since he came over prepared to help me remove the hub. Drove on it this morning ...


2

You'll need about an 8" or 10" extension. Use the same 13mm socket as the bottom one. You'll also have to work blind, but it is (I believe) exactly opposite of the bottom one. Put the socket/extension up on the top side of the starter and find the bolt. It shouldn't be too difficult. Also, make sure all of your power is disconnected before you do it. Here is ...


2

For the no start you'll need to check wiring to the starter. You may or may not have an anti-theft module in your car. Is there a flashing security light when the key is in the on position? Is the battery fully charged? Here's how I would test the circuit, locate the starter relay. In your case it would be under the driver side dash. Pull the relay noting ...


2

For something along this line would be a diagnostic service fee. When you take a vehicle in for regular maintenance and ask them to see if they notice anything they do not hook up any computers to pull codes and it's typically a visual check. Depending on the tech and if they use a lift some will check suspension but if it's a drive through oil drain area ...


1

A problem with your charging system, such as an alternator that's not providing enough juice, can cause this. Your turn signal relays are sensitive to voltage fluctuations.


1

I have the same car, I bought it new, I've had to replace the fuss/relay panel on the passenger side under the glove box twice... The internal hard wiring of the panel melts and burns at the power source for the fuel pump fuse...


1

That particular engine (single cam) commonly has an intake gasket leak with high idle as a symptom. There are other common issues with the same behavior such as the throttle position sensor, idle air controller, and engine coolant temperature sensor. Some googling into saturn forums will provide more troubleshooting and info than I could in a ...


1

Lock and unlock your car using the key buttons two or three times, count to three between presses. Finally open the door with the key buttons, put the key into ignition and turn it to run. If the indicator for the immobiliser stays on, you now know you have an immobiliser fault. You will proberbly have to have your vehicle scanned for any faults, even if the ...



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