Hot answers tagged

11

From what I have seen and read over the last few years the "general rule" has become best tires on the rear. In my opinion it is likely the result of litigation by people who were involved in skidding accidents. The theory as far as I understand it, is that with worn tires in the rear, the back end can loose traction and allow the rear of the car to attempt ...


9

Yes you need to replace the grease when you replace the boot. That grease lubricates the joint, if you don't have enough inside the boot the joint can fail prematurely. On a side note don't use one of the quick boots (the ones designed to be put on without taking the CV joint off of the car), in my experience they are worthless. Here is an example of a ...


8

I'm living in a country where we need proper winter tires during that season so I have to switch between tires sets twice a year. Each switch I rotate the tires (rotation depends if the tires are direction or not) and mark the position on the one I remove for the next season to make sure to rotate them. Tire rotation is recommended (by Transport Canada and ...


7

I've a 93 and have had what sounds like the same problem, that is the ignition turns on but when the key is turned further to start the engine it does not always crank the engine. In my case it was the ignition switch and being one not to through money away I took it all apart and cleaned the switch contacts and it's been fine for the past four/five years. ...


6

As @Moab stated, if it wasn't needed, it wouldn't be there. In most cases, the clip is there to maintain bearing position. Without it, the bearing walks and it drastically shortens the life of not only the bearing, but anything which the bearing comes into contact, mainly the CV joint. When the bearing walks, this puts pressure the CVJ every time you turn a ...


5

Remove the shaft, and throw the boot away. Clean out the old dirty grease, after cleaning the part of course, and replace both the grease and boot. This gives you a chance to inspect the joint, and clean up any dirt residue that will speed up the deterioration of the CV joint.


4

No sense at all. You will have a terrible time finding any parts for it. My coworker had a very nice Saab last year, until a thief broke one of his windows. He searched high and low for a new window, and even if one could be found, it would have been overpriced. In the end, the Saab was replaced with a different car simply because of a broken window. Imagine ...


4

Saab Automobile Parts AB was not included in the sale of Saab Automobile AB. It is now in the ownership of Swedish National Dept Office. Saab Automobile Parts AB is not included in the sale of Saab Automobile AB The parts company continues to serve Saab customers globally with Saab Genuine Parts and aftersales service and also to expand its ...


4

It definitely does sound like a bad wheel hub bearing. Classic pattern of woob-woob-woob-woob. The sound is made as the bearing inner race wobbles around the outer race. This is a safety issue. Replace as soon as possible. Did you take a look at the CV joints? A bad CV boot could have damaged the bearing by filling it up with gunk (a mix of dirt and grease)....


3

The trunk mount bicycle racks are the cheapest. You open your trunk and part of the device sits in there. When you close your trunk it's 'mounted'. They look like this. They are -$40 on ebay.


3

Sputtering could be fuel, air, or spark. But yes, spark sounds like a likely culprit. Generally fuel related items will generate a check engine light and codes. (You've not mentioned check engine light or codes, so I'm assuming there are none. If there are Onboard Diagnostics (OBD2) codes you should get those items fixed first.) Plugged air filter is ...


3

I have experienced the same symptoms on an engine, where the MAF sensor was giving lower than expected readings. The engine would only run for a few seconds before stalling. A new MAF sensor fixed the problem. I tested my MAF on the bench with a hair dryer and a multimeter. It wasn't until I got a replacement that I could see how low a reading the faulty ...


3

The "sometimes cranks, sometimes starts" description sounds like there are two issues present at the same time. My recommended strategy would be to address the intermittent cranking first. Intermittent starting could be something as simple as a bad battery as Anarach explains. With intermittent cranking, the culprit could be a bad starter motor but since ...


3

The part on the picture is called "Companion flange" as per Saab's own electronic part catalogue (EPC) - number 7 on the drawing below. I'm not sure which one in particular you need, so here's the drawing itself: Full size Check whether your engine type is among the listed above. Part numbers are listed on the right, and you can use those when ordering ...


3

I think you need to jot down your VIN number and plug it into a VIN decoder (check out saabnet.com for starters).


2

I am not sure about Saab, but BMWs have a blowout resistor that controls the fan speed. The telltale that the resistor went bad is erratic/inoperative fan behavior.


2

I did some research on some Saab forums. I found that typically on US bound Saab 9-5 a bulb is installed on both sides. However, the metal circuit on the passenger side is cut to disable that side. This is to prevent the rear fog lights from appearing as brake lights (there are arguments about the legality of dual rear fog lights in certain US locations). ...


2

If the question involved a brand that sold more units worldwide and had a history of using the same parts for many years I would go for the Saab if it was what I really wanted. I don't know many people who rely solely on the dealer for parts of seven year old cars. Most go to the aftermarket or used for routine wear and crash items. If 2007 was the last year ...


2

It's almost always cheaper to fix than replace a car. However when faced with major repairs I always recommend two things. Second opinion/estimate Cost analysis Get a second opinion and estimate. In your case base on the information provided the estimate is really high. I am assuming the "heatbox" is the Heater Core Case if so that's about a 5 hour job, ...


2

In lieu of a better (more specialized) answer, I would use high temperature grease. Nothing too expensive though, I doubt those hinges get hotter than 500F.


2

The following could be the reason for your car not starting, based on the symptoms you have stated. Car does not crank at all Drained/Dead battery ,Try Jump starting the car, if it starts then it can be the battery, the electrical come on since they don't use as much electricity as the starter motor. Check the cable ends which connect the starter and the ...


2

Possibly a problem with the computer that controls them (which might be the BCM - Body Control Module, or might be a separate dedicated module). A friend of mine had the same problem with a 2001 BMW, and water had got into said module through a perished seal and shorted a number of connections within it, causing the lights to go on and off at seemingly ...


2

From your description, I doubt anything you've stated is at fault. I would bet the vacuum port you used for testing is associated with another device which is where you heard the "ticking" sound. As this alternate device is turned on/off, it is causing the wild vacuum readings you are seeing. If I were to guess, I would think you are probably reading ...


1

I would put money on this being the brakes chuffing on the rotors, or something related with the wheel going around. The easiest way to test this theory is to jack the car up and spin the wheel. Should exhibit the same type of noise.


1

In short, yes. It's usually a fault in the connecting control hoses, the solenoid valve or the bypass valve. The bypass valve is a common failure on these vehicles


1

I'm unsure as to what you mean by booster valve. Do you mean the charge air bypass valve? P1110 Charge Air Bypass Valve (CABV) performance fault. Either the diaphragm in the bypass valve is bad. The vacuum supply line to the bypass valve is bad. Or the bypass valve solenoid/wiring has a fault.


1

This sounds like proper OBD-II software behavior. The CARB OBD-II rules state that for most trouble codes the check engine light should go off after two passed tests and then the codes should erase from memory after 40 passed tests. The fact that the light has gone off on its own is a good sign that the repairs were correct. No need to clear the codes, ...


1

You have what in polite terms is known as an intermittant fault. Things like fuel pump or it relay, crankshaft sensor or some other component is failing to operate when warm, or even a loose connection somewhere. What I have had some success with on this type of fault is a data logger. (The RAC would have scanned your vehicle and found no faults.) A data ...


1

From your limited description, it could be one of two things: First and most likely, your clutch could going out. When disengaging your clutch, if there is any metal-to-metal contact, it's going to may a louder noise than normal. Secondly, it could be that the throw-out bearing is worn out. The reason I think this is less likely than the first is that ...


1

Are you using the correct spark plugs, or aftermarket? OEM makes a huge difference in certain vehicle brands.



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