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12

The best thing to do would be to sand down the rusted area until you can see the original metal and then apply a automotive primer to protect it from the rust. If you feel pretty comfortable with a bottle of spray paint and aren't too worried about a pro job, you could then obtain some automotive spray paint and repaint the affected area(s). One thing to ...


10

tl;dr: Even if you only use spray wax after a wash, it's better than nothing. It depends on where you live, what kind of driving you do and how you generally maintain your car. The short answer is that waxing a car puts a sacrificial layer on top of the clear coat which sits on top of the paint (assuming that you have a generally standard paint job). ...


9

I used Napa Rust Treatment Permatex 765-1671 on my F-150 truck about 8 months ago and all the rust is gone! This treatment is like a grey primer. It's not pretty on a blue truck, but neither is oxidized red cancer.


7

Regular washing and waxing is your best bet. We kept our cars in one piece through the Rochester, NY winters with nothing more than this. The wax provides a sacrificial protective coating for the painted parts of the body. You can apply wax to your wheels as well. As a bonus, the brake dust will be easier to wash off of a waxed wheel. Then wash, wash, ...


6

Wash off the salt whenever possible. Inspect the car regularly (especially in locations where salt and water can get trapped). Repair any noticable damage immediately (damaged paint, damaged undercoating, etc). Set aside some spare funds in the anticipation of such repairs. My experience is that body panels don't rust, it's the strut towers, floor, and ...


5

First thing you need to get some type of penetrating oil. You need something like LiquidWrench,PB Blaster or SeaFoam. My personal favorite is PB Blaster. The second thing you need is patience. If you can, give the penetrant several days to work. I have had goodluck wrapping the fitting in a strip of rag and soaking it with the oil. If you can get the quick ...


5

Yes and you should. Rust is always bad and it sounds like you have a relatively easy job. Remember, if you have rust, you don't have paint. If you're careful, there shouldn't be any effect on the paint surrounding the threaded hole. In terms of cleaning the threads out, you're going to need an abrasive to remove the rust and then a tool to remove any ...


5

If your rotors are thick enough and there are no defects in pads area (big grooves, buldgy edges) I would not worry at all. There's no need to replace rotors each time. If there are some defects that can be removed and the rotors are thick enough - consider resurfacing the rotors, that might be cheaper. All-in-all, given that the only downside is faster ...


5

You are looking for a mask to filter particulates, an N95 HEPA mask or should be sufficient, they are usually pink or purple in color. You are correct that a dust mask is insufficient. If you have a beard, or as I do just think these are more comfortable then you can use a PAPR (pronounced papper) or Powered Air Purifying Respirator. Here are some examples ...


4

Try to remove as much rust as possible with either a die grinder or other rotary device with a wire wheel. Then just use some rust paint to spray over them. You don't even have to take them off the car if you don't want to. Honestly you could even skip the wire wheel if you are feeling really lazy but you may have to respray them every 6 months depending on ...


4

It's not required that you replace your brake rotors at the same time you replace your brake pads, but there are many reasons why it's highly recommended. Primarily, it's not the rust you should worry about, there most likely always going to be some rust around the edges, that's not at all out of the ordinary. The main problem is that your rotors are most ...


4

Remove the rust! Paint won't do much good on top of rust, and it won't last either. There are some chemicals you can spray on rusted surfaces, but I think sanding is generally best. I just tackled this project with my car. For small areas, sandpaper will work for removing rust. For larger areas (which I had), a flap wheel sander with a cordless drill was ...


4

Motorcycle folks seem to do this a lot, presumably because the gas tank is easy to remove and small enough to manhandle (personhandle?). A Google search produces a lot of results for how to do this, and any of the ways you've heard will probably work well. Here's one detailed list: http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank You have to ...


4

Sand down the paint around the hole, apply a few layers of zinc spray followed by a few layers of new paint (with primer, if necessary) with 1 or 2 layers of clearcoat on top. Make sure you cover the edges well and check the edge regularly to see if any rust occurs. Make sure you wait long enough between each layer for optimal protection, check the label ...


4

How serious are you about this? Some pressure treated 2" x 12" planks under the tires will protect them from ground rot. Sun will age your paint job and rubber. You'd be doing your car a favor to put some kind of cover over it that will shade the car and deflect rain. I have seen canvas "garages" for $200 that would do the trick, although keeping air ...


4

The photo you have added is not of Chrome rims. Chrome rims are a lot harder and can be cleaned with what you've suggested. Aluminium rims are a lot softer and easily get stains though they don't get the actual rust(mostly). I have similar stains on my Ford and was able to get rid of it after 2-3 iterations of Armour-All Wheel cleaner. I think any decent ...


3

I've had very good results with Nevr-Dull - Magic Wadding Polish. It will take a bit more work to clean your wheels than CLR (or some other corrosive) but is probably safer for the wheels, and avoids the potential damage that steel wool might cause.


3

This Automotive Touch Up Video demonstrates how you can take care of scratches in your paint. In addition, I've had good luck with Napa's Rust Permatex Treatment. It turns rust into a gray primer, which might look a little ugly but not as much as a rusted-out car. You could use the Napa Rust Treatment to get rid of the rust and then try the techniques ...


3

Do not put your bare hand over the tailpipe, it will get burnt. If you cannot hear an exhaust leak, puff puffing, you can pressurise the exhaust system with a rag over the tailpipe to make an exhaust leak more pronounced and tracible. The downside to this is that you can destroy the catalytic converter, so it is really not a good idea to do it. The way ...


3

Sadly, I have a lot of experience with this exactly situation. We're not quite as deep into the Salt Belt as PA but still.... Will be removing at least some heat shielding ... For this part of the task, the most important tool that you need is replacement bolts. Those little heat shield bolts are the absolute worst: they're cheap metal holding other ...


2

That looks pretty bad - typically when I've seen ones get this corroded, they need to be sandblasted clear of rust, properly filled and then repainted. You should be able to keep sanding until all the rust is gone - if that leaves holes, you're better off knowing about them rather than having them hidden under rust. If the holes are too big, you can always ...


2

I would be hesitant to make a raised platform using wood. Keep in mind even a very light car is around 3000 lbs, the last thing you really want to do is park your car and have the front wheels go right through that platform. The wood wouldn't be a bad idea to help kill the weeds (though weed killer would have worked pretty well also). I'm in the same ...


2

A wire brush is the best option for removing surface rust, but I wouldn't try the brush you have in any of the tools you've got! In terms of painting, you can just use normal primer, but I would go for a rust inhibiting one (e.g. those sold by Bilt Hamber, Hammerite and others) - If it has started rusting there, there is a reason for it (usually ...


2

I think it depends on how bad the rust patches are. If it's just surface rust, I'd clean up the rust with a wire brush and some sand paper and treat the remaining rust with chemical rust remover or converter, then repaint the wheel. If there is significantly deep rust on the rim that goes deep enough to warrant grinding out, I'd be a bit careful or would ...


2

You shouldn't have to worry about removing the rust from the nut if you are going to replace the screw. If the new screw won't screw into the nut because of rust run a tap through the nut to clear out any rust and dirt (this is assuming that the nut has machine threads). The best preventative maintenance is to replace the bolt with a stainless steel license ...


2

If you have a well ventilated area and you have a little time on your hands (a day total with waiting for paint to dry). Then you should just do it right so you're not upset with how they wheels look in a week. Pick yourself up some of my favorite product for stripping painted / rusted parts back down to bare metal. Aircraft Paint Removal (APR) This ...


2

If your lazy, get black rustolium and just spray over everything. Then follow up with a black gloss wheel paint. It will look perfectly fine. EDIT: Try Plastidip! Just get a can and remove the wheel, spray a few good coats, let it dry. There are many, many tutorials on YouTube.


2

The pictures show some extensive rust. Body filler is used to cover low spots and smooth seams it is not intended to replace metal. The proper method is as you say to cut out the rust and weld in the new parts. However if you are just trying to get through another inspection period, finish school etc a short term repair may work for just that, a short term. ...



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