Hot answers tagged replace
22
The decision to replace is largely based on the thickness. The repair manual should tell you the minimum thickness, below which you should replace the rotors when doing the repair. Use a pair of calipers and measure the rotor thickness, if you're below this number you need to replace the rotors.
You may also wish to replace the rotors if you have ...
8
There are three cases that cause brake rotors to need to be resurfaced/turned and/or replaced.
Gouging of the rotor by the brake pad holding mechanism (the pad were rubbed completely away and the metal holding the pad start digging into the rotor)
Warping of the rotor from extreme use (rotor gets too hot and warps upon cooling)
The rotor itself wears down ...
7
At least in the United States you are not required to use the dealer for service,parts or repairs to maintain your warranty. You will be required to have the warranty work done at the dealer except in extenuating circumstances,(like the nearest dealer is 150 miles away) but you must still contact them first. If they deny a warranty claim on the basis of non ...
5
A simple test that you can perform in your own driveway is:
For each corner of the car, push down hard several times (the car should be bouncing visibly up and down)
When pushed down, release and watch
The car should bounce upwards (above the normal resting point) and then immediately settle at the resting point. Additional bouncing indicates worn or ...
5
As Bob says, formal servicing should always follow the manufacturer's schedule - Make sure to take into account any variations suggested for your location/climate/usage pattern. This should include routine things like oil and filter changes, as well as more major, but less frequent things such as timing belts.
In terms of more general checks and ...
5
Wow, I'm in the minority here.
It is my firm belief that you should have your rotors turned with every brake pad/shoe replacement!
If you do not do this everything will work perfectly fine, until you apply the brakes
then if your brake rotors/drums were glazed, heavily scored or worn out of parallel to the new brake pad your will stopping distance WILL be ...
5
You can by an engine from the dealer. Call around the price can very dramatically from dealer to dealer. Some of the high volume (parts sales) dealers will sell over the counter for less than a normal dealer would pay for the engine from GM. One of the dealers in my area sells hundreds if not thousands of engines a year. It was cheaper for my dealer to buy ...
4
The "fun" part is going to be getting the original bushing out - you might have to cut or burn out the rubber, then cut through the outer metal ring without damaging the arm.
You'll also need to build a makeshift tool you can use to press in the new bushing - at the very least, use a socket that matches the out diameter of the bushing and use a vise to ...
4
In my experience, Polyurethane bushes last longer than standard rubber ones, as the plastic doesn't perish in the same way that rubber does.
As you mention, there is a price to this, as they are generally harder than the equavalent OEM bushes, however many manufacturers offer a variety of stiffnesses, depending on the intended use - some of the softest ones ...
4
If it runs out of fluid it will need to be replaced, because it will destroy itself rapidly (probably preceded by a loud grinding noise). In the meantime, as long as there is sufficient gear oil to wet the gears it will be fine.
As for severity, it is common for differentials to develop a "seep" around the front seal where the drive-shaft connects, or the ...
4
The short answer is that you should always be guided by the maintenance schedule by the calendar set forth in your owner's manual. It will have a detailed calendar based on your usage profile and setting forth major items based on miles or dates, depending on what's most appropriate. Using my car as an example, there's a moderately major service required ...
3
I doubt your sensor requires soldering. I would recommend always going with OEM parts, as they ensure the values the sensor sends are accurate. Next, verify which sensor it is as some cars have 4 and are divided into banks (sides). The code should say which side you are looking at. The sensor itself might need a special socket, but that is not necessarily ...
3
It depends specifically on what's wrong with the starter.
Sometimes you hear a clicking sound when you turn the key but the starter motor gears don't actually turn. This could actually be due to a weak battery, but if you know the battery has a full charge, then it could be the starter gears actually failing to turn.
You may hear a whining sound, ...
2
Along with the already mentioned and more common reasons of Gouges, Warped or being too thin there is another reason for getting them turned/resurfaced.
When using some higher quality brake pads, they will tell you if you are changing from one pad compound to another (either changing brands or product lines) to use new or re-surfaced rotors.
This comes ...
2
Parts stores take a deposit when you don't have the old part, and refund you the deposit when you return the core. Since you didn't give them a deposit, I doubt very seriously they will give you any money for it. You may want to try an axle re-builder in your area, CV axles are easy to rebuild and a lot of cites have local re-builders, they may be willing to ...
2
I am showing that vehicle to already take these halogen bulbs. If you have sealed beams and you want to upgrade the lights you can try for example Hella Lights.
2
Panels like that are usually removed after removing the head unit. I'm guessing from the picture that it is an aftermarket unit, so you should be able to get an appropriate removal tool (these vary according to the make of the head unit) from your local car accessories shop. Use the tool(s) to remove the head unit, and you'll find a metal cage behind it, ...
2
I've search for an online procedure, without success. But looking how the lamp is built, it's looks like you have 2 bracket on each side of the lamp. Unless you can access it from behind the bumper (which I doubt), you'll need to remove the bumper. If unsure, maybe take some pictures of your setup and update your original post with them.
Here's one image of ...
2
It sounds as if the internals of the cat may have broken loose. The catalytic converter is already broke so you can't make it any worse. The worst thing that can happen is it could the piece that is rattling may break free and plug the exhaust leaving you stranded. I would also ask the dealer if they will cover potential problems of a clogged muffler later ...
2
You must make sure before changing to a higher wattage headlamp bulb such as a 60/65W H4 that all the wiring and switches for the headlamp are able to carry the additional current that a higher wattage bulb will draw.
Your current headlamp is listed as a 35/35W, so the 60/65W will draw nearly twice as much current.
Without knowing what type of wiring and ...
1
Both codes look to be related.
P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Source: http://www.engine-light-help.com
Replacing the sensor may fix the issue, but as pointed out in the answer to your previous question:
it is not always the sensor that goes bad. Sensors ...
1
The tools to do it yourself can all be rented. The job can be difficult and even hazardous depending on the route you take to do it. You can do full strut/spring changes by buying the "quick change" strut assemblies. Or, you can disassemble the strut assembly to only replace the bad parts (commonly the strut and the bearing/top plates). That requires ...
1
You should also check your battery condition every oil change especially if you live in an area with a cold winter, you will neeed a battery tester to do this. Along with fluid levelks you should check condition, if they're brownish or dirty coloured they will require a flush, you can also purchase a guage to test you coolant strength. (its quite ...
1
With most vehicles of the rear wheel or four wheel type this would invole crawling under the vehicle or raising it onto service ramps/jackstands.The plug would be removed and an object inserted in the hole (a little finger works well for this)to see if the differential fluid is even with the bottom of the plug hole,if oil gets on your finger the level is ...
1
I remember having issues like these about 5 years ago, and we ended up having to grip the screw/stud that was sticking out while turning the nut. Does the bolt have a flat piece that you can maybe get a wrench on? Try this if possible. Another option, assuming you are replacing them, vice grip the polished rod with some beefy vice grips and removed the nut. ...
1
I have had this on various occasions on all my Subarus once they get old, and on my Forester STi at only 70k miles!
Polyurethane bushes on the much harder STi suspension last less time than rubber - it seems they are so hard the impact transferred to them is higher (have to replace every 25k or so - but this one is set up for track, despite being my ...
1
Do you have any sort of loosing oil, like WD40? The glass might simply be stuck to the rubber seals that keep it from cracking in the clamps. If you can't see any other clamps, and it is still stuck; spray some WD40(or whatever) in there and gently separate the glass from rubber. I had this problem happen a couple of times on older BMWs while replacing ...
1
Beyond what jmort253 said, and separated out into a specific answer at Bob Cross' suggestion:
I ran into a particular difficult to track down problem which was caused by the clutch in the starter opening up. The starter would wind up and make a screeching sound, but sometimes wouldn't turn the engine over. I was thinking it might be a broken tooth on the ...
1
There is generally a minimum thickness marked on the disc by the manufacturer which marks the 'safe' limit at which you don't really want to risk exceeding.
I've changed my pads twice now on my current vehicle, and each time taken the discs off and individually checked them for signs of gouging, cracking and of course if it's passed the minimum thickness ...
1
O.K as a mechanic for over 35 yrs. I strongly reccomend resuracing.even if the rotors look fine It's a matter of cost. if they are the "slip over hub"type the cost of new rotors are relitivly cheaplike 28 bucks each with that said peace of mind for under 100 is well worth it. New pads are ceramic and much tougher than metalic to "break in"
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
