Hot answers tagged

6

Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on. Unless you have a ...


6

It could also be the Crank Position Sensor. It is mounted on the flywheel cover and if it gets contaminated with dust from the clutch it can stop the engine from starting. It confuses the average guy as it looks like either a fuel or ignition problem. It is held in position with two bolts. Might be awkward to get to. Hope this helps.


5

It wouldn't be a "security" concern, but it IS a safety concern. You are talking about your safety and the safety of those around you. If your vehicle does not stop as it should, your reaction time is increased, so you will not be stopping as soon as you would think you should, which could cause unanticipated results. My suggestion is that you update the ...


5

While your question is pretty thorough, I'm assuming a few things in this answer that you didn't clarify; When you crank the engine, and it doesn't start, I'm assuming it's a smooth crank without hiccups. By that I mean it isn't trying to start, it just cranks. You have the petrol model, not a diesel. It uses an electronic push-button start mechanism. ...


4

I have replaced he old ECU ( SIRIUS 32N ) with another one ( SIRIUS 32 ) which is used before, the car has not started the first two tries but have started normally the third time, the immobilizer light have not been blinking which means there is no immobilizer problem and this means either the ECU is already decoded ( it is supposed to not be decoded ...


4

As long as you have replaced the radiator cap, then there should not be excessive pressure in the cooling system. The system is designed to hold 16PSI. If it does exceed this pressure, it will release pressure into the overflow tank. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed, not allowing coolant to flow through the upper radiator hose. Once the ...


3

It's me, your future self. So it turns out that you're an idiot and all you had to do was fiddle with the choke. That little lever on the carb? That's the choke. I forget which way is open and which way is closed, but if you do the following: Push the ignition switch. If it doesn't start, move the choke lever to the other (closed) position. Push the ...


3

I have the same car and I really hate having to check the oil level. The dipstick is on the front/underside of the engine close to the oil filter. It bright yellow, but since it's so well hidden it's easily missed. Here's a photo for clarification:


3

from what you've said it sounds like an issue with the rear tyres, mismatching different makes of tyre's can throw the handling out as they all have different tread patterns (even more noticable in the rain because they aqua plane differently) couple of other things to check would be - Check all the wheels have been balanced properly check all the tyres ...


3

Depending on how well you know the feeling, the symptoms sound like they could just be a brief slip into oversteer: As the back end loses traction (which could be the case based on your description of the tyres) the car will feel like it is suddenly turning too much into the corner. Normally, however, once you lose the back end, it doesn't come back by ...


3

The hazard lights in every car I've ever drive work whether the engine is turned on or not. The turn signals (indicators) work when the engine is turned on. It sounds like something is interrupting the power going into the turn signal switch when the engine is running. One possibility is that the alternator isn't working and so the engine is lowering the ...


3

I take it from the description that the release lever now feels loose, i.e. there is no tension on the cable? We can therefore assume that the mechanism has partly released, but due to the ice did not spring up onto the catch. Have you tried getting a couple of fingers under the edge of the bonnet and giving it a sharp tug upwards? You could also try ...


3

I think that the computer's fuel consumption statistics don't actually come from the tank float. The consumption estimate comes from the injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. The computer probably has a map or graph between duty cycle and fuel pressure which tells how much fuel the injector will spray at any given cycle and pressure. Using this it ...


3

The idle air control valve is integrated into the throttle body unit as shown here: It may not look exactly like that, there was an update some time around then but the parts are very similar and the principles are the same. There is a forum thread with a few more pictures of the cleaning process here: http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=...


3

This is a two part answer. The second is depending on whether there is an issue with the first part. First, it could be the drainage channels are blocked which should be toward the front of the vehicle. If you have an electric sunroof, you should be able to run it towards the rear the vehicle and see them in the front at the corners. If you poor some water ...


3

One possibility is low cylinder compression, either due to gases getting passed the piston rings or passed poorly seating valves. If gasses are getting passed the rings, this could possibly be detected by removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running, if you then put your hand over the filler and feel a large volume of gas being blown out of the ...


3

You will need to have the fuel pump properly bled to get the air out - the three miles you got was probably down to fuel already in the pipes. I would have expected the mechanic who drained the tank to have re-bled the system after refilling...


3

Some possible causes for your problem: Damaged wiring from starter relay to starter Damaged wiring from battery to starter Damaged wiring from ignition lock to starter relay Broken starter relay 3 and 4 could be possible because the relay click you are hearing could come from a different relay. There is a relay in some cars to turn off other power loads ...


2

Well we solved it. We think it was due to flooding, but we needed to clean the spark plugs. They were pretty dirty so my brother took them out, cleaned them up and put them back. He then hooked up my car battery to his and started the car, after a bit of a grumble she started. A load of muck came out of the exhaust but since she's been absolutely fine and ...


2

Considering everything you've said to this point, it sounds like you have a bearing going out in your transmission. With your mileage, it wouldn't be unheard of. I would definitely have a respectable transmission shop in your area take a look at it. If it is a bearing, they can replace just the bearing (and any other worn part such as synchros and clutch -- "...


2

The first thing I would try to do is use a very good window cleaner, or even vinegar. Just get it as clean as possible. Assuming you already tried something like this, the next thing I'd do is use a clay bar to see if it will pull the contaminants off the windshield. Use it just like you would if you were cleaning your paint job. If the clay bar doesn't ...


2

Looks like that's a piece of your brake rotor's dust shield. As techturtle said, its lack doesn't pose an immediate danger, but since it keeps debris out of the brakes, you should get it replaced at your earliest convenience to avoid undue wear. I don't have any specific knowledge of your car, but if replacing it does not involve moving the caliper, it ...


2

It says in manuals: Press one of the buttons on the card four times close to the vehicle, The next time the vehicle is started, the message will disappear.


2

Since it is occurring on both sides with the same result, your problem lies with the switch on the column. There is an outside chance that the wiring harness connection which attaches to the switch might need reseated, so you could attempt that as well.


2

Checking several sights it should be on the front side of the engine. Near the middle of the block and under the fuel rail cover. Even in day light you may need a flashlight to locate it. It is by all accounts a royal pain to get at. Several queries were in regard to broken dip sticks. What this may mean is you can't find it because it has been broken off.


2

I suggest getting the rotors turned before replacing them (if they haven't been turned too many times before) You will save money this way depending on where you get them turned. Get new pads on both of the insides, and check the calipers. There is a good chance (depending on how old your vehicle is) that you may need to replace them. Check your brake pads ...


2

In the second and third images, starting at the top and working to the right: Top row - Fans Windows Sun roof Middle row - Antilock Brakes (ABS) Radio Brake lights Fog lights (?) Window Window Coupe Console - someone says it is "Consumer for clock / radio" (?) Horn Wiper ALIM/UCH - manual says "common power" (?) Third row - Interior lights ...


2

Without access to a wiring diagram you'll have to look at your owners manual or see if they put a diagram on the fuse/relay box. Either way, if the starter relay is clicking you can rule out anti theft. The starter relay generally draws power from the ignition and passes power to the starter S terminal. If you're getting power at the S terminal the relay is ...


2

There are several things that could be causing the knocking sound from the rear suspension. My first guess was worn out bushings allowing metal-to-metal contact, broken sway bar end-links, or worn out shock mounts (top or bottom). If you can, pop the rear tire off and inspect the suspension mounts for cracked rubber or worn out parts. If there are multiple ...


2

Not necessarily a bad suspension. I am not going to claim it is one specific thing because there are so many things it could be. Here are a few things to check in the rear of the car to find out what is going in; Check the obvious suspension parts as best you can while it is on the ground and while jacked up. Could be shocks, sway bar components, ...



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