Hot answers tagged

6

Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on. Unless you have a ...


5

It wouldn't be a "security" concern, but it IS a safety concern. You are talking about your safety and the safety of those around you. If your vehicle does not stop as it should, your reaction time is increased, so you will not be stopping as soon as you would think you should, which could cause unanticipated results. My suggestion is that you update the ...


4

I have replaced he old ECU ( SIRIUS 32N ) with another one ( SIRIUS 32 ) which is used before, the car has not started the first two tries but have started normally the third time, the immobilizer light have not been blinking which means there is no immobilizer problem and this means either the ECU is already decoded ( it is supposed to not be decoded ...


3

from what you've said it sounds like an issue with the rear tyres, mismatching different makes of tyre's can throw the handling out as they all have different tread patterns (even more noticable in the rain because they aqua plane differently) couple of other things to check would be - Check all the wheels have been balanced properly check all the tyres ...


3

Depending on how well you know the feeling, the symptoms sound like they could just be a brief slip into oversteer: As the back end loses traction (which could be the case based on your description of the tyres) the car will feel like it is suddenly turning too much into the corner. Normally, however, once you lose the back end, it doesn't come back by ...


3

It could also be the Crank Position Sensor. It is mounted on the flywheel cover and if it gets contaminated with dust from the clutch it can stop the engine from starting. It confuses the average guy as it looks like either a fuel or ignition problem. It is held in position with two bolts. Might be awkward to get to. Hope this helps.


3

While your question is pretty thorough, I'm assuming a few things in this answer that you didn't clarify; When you crank the engine, and it doesn't start, I'm assuming it's a smooth crank without hiccups. By that I mean it isn't trying to start, it just cranks. You have the petrol model, not a diesel. It uses an electronic push-button start mechanism. ...


3

The hazard lights in every car I've ever drive work whether the engine is turned on or not. The turn signals (indicators) work when the engine is turned on. It sounds like something is interrupting the power going into the turn signal switch when the engine is running. One possibility is that the alternator isn't working and so the engine is lowering the ...


3

I have the same car and I really hate having to check the oil level. The dipstick is on the front/underside of the engine close to the oil filter. It bright yellow, but since it's so well hidden it's easily missed. Here's a photo for clarification:


3

I think that the computer's fuel consumption statistics don't actually come from the tank float. The consumption estimate comes from the injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. The computer probably has a map or graph between duty cycle and fuel pressure which tells how much fuel the injector will spray at any given cycle and pressure. Using this it ...


3

The idle air control valve is integrated into the throttle body unit as shown here: It may not look exactly like that, there was an update some time around then but the parts are very similar and the principles are the same. There is a forum thread with a few more pictures of the cleaning process here: ...


3

This is a two part answer. The second is depending on whether there is an issue with the first part. First, it could be the drainage channels are blocked which should be toward the front of the vehicle. If you have an electric sunroof, you should be able to run it towards the rear the vehicle and see them in the front at the corners. If you poor some water ...


3

One possibility is low cylinder compression, either due to gases getting passed the piston rings or passed poorly seating valves. If gasses are getting passed the rings, this could possibly be detected by removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running, if you then put your hand over the filler and feel a large volume of gas being blown out of the ...


2

Considering everything you've said to this point, it sounds like you have a bearing going out in your transmission. With your mileage, it wouldn't be unheard of. I would definitely have a respectable transmission shop in your area take a look at it. If it is a bearing, they can replace just the bearing (and any other worn part such as synchros and clutch -- ...


2

The first thing I would try to do is use a very good window cleaner, or even vinegar. Just get it as clean as possible. Assuming you already tried something like this, the next thing I'd do is use a clay bar to see if it will pull the contaminants off the windshield. Use it just like you would if you were cleaning your paint job. If the clay bar doesn't ...


2

I take it from the description that the release lever now feels loose, i.e. there is no tension on the cable? We can therefore assume that the mechanism has partly released, but due to the ice did not spring up onto the catch. Have you tried getting a couple of fingers under the edge of the bonnet and giving it a sharp tug upwards? You could also try ...


2

Checking several sights it should be on the front side of the engine. Near the middle of the block and under the fuel rail cover. Even in day light you may need a flashlight to locate it. It is by all accounts a royal pain to get at. Several queries were in regard to broken dip sticks. What this may mean is you can't find it because it has been broken off.


2

Looks like that's a piece of your brake rotor's dust shield. As techturtle said, its lack doesn't pose an immediate danger, but since it keeps debris out of the brakes, you should get it replaced at your earliest convenience to avoid undue wear. I don't have any specific knowledge of your car, but if replacing it does not involve moving the caliper, it ...


2

I suggest getting the rotors turned before replacing them (if they haven't been turned too many times before) You will save money this way depending on where you get them turned. Get new pads on both of the insides, and check the calipers. There is a good chance (depending on how old your vehicle is) that you may need to replace them. Check your brake pads ...


2

Since it is occurring on both sides with the same result, your problem lies with the switch on the column. There is an outside chance that the wiring harness connection which attaches to the switch might need reseated, so you could attempt that as well.


2

It says in manuals: Press one of the buttons on the card four times close to the vehicle, The next time the vehicle is started, the message will disappear.


1

It's me, your future self. So it turns out that you're an idiot and all you had to do was fiddle with the choke. That little lever on the carb? That's the choke. I forget which way is open and which way is closed, but if you do the following: Push the ignition switch. If it doesn't start, move the choke lever to the other (closed) position. Push the ...


1

Old news paper used dry works surprisingly well. As does ultrafine grade wire wool (0000 grade) - don't use any other grade as it can damage the glass. White vinegar used on paper towels also is excellent at clearing glass.


1

Fortunately from your description, it sounds like more of an annoyance than a real problem. It could be any one of numerous mounts/bushing on the car which are causing this. Finding it would be a real pain. If you like the car and can put up with the squeak, I'd bet it's nothing to worry about. It's not the throw out bearing or the clutch, because the noise ...


1

Your Megane can have a four speed or a five speed box. This means the clutch can be cable operated or hydraulic operated. On a cable clutch you can have squeaks from the clutch pedal bushing, the cable attachment at the pedal, and also from the cable itself. The cable wears internally on bends in the cable. The inner cable cuts through its neoprene inner ...


1

Once you have the nut off of the wiper arm, you may need a small puller to get the arm off. These have a splined mount with an interference, which means, as you tighten them down they become more tightly wedged onto the mount. By using a puller, it should pop right off. The puller used for these have long thin puller arms, so not like a puller you'd have for ...


1

It's probably a bearing in the clutch. There's a fair bit of labour in pulling a clutch, even just to inspect it, so I'd recommend ignoring it until other symptoms appear. eg turn up the stereo!


1

Tallmaris' means of determining fuel consumed per distance is correct, but could be made more precise by repeating the test several times until at least one thousand, and preferably two thousand, miles have been driven, keeping close track of the fuel consumed traveling those miles... starting with a full tank and ending with a full tank. Mike, too, is ...


1

Assuming you have spade fuses, you can use one of these [spade fuse taps](fuse spade tap) to get your power: It fits over the blade on the fuse, then you push the fuse down into its normal position in the fuse panel. You can connect the other end to a grounding point. To find one look for a metal nut or a bolt in the vicinity of your fuse panel. When ...


1

Well we solved it. We think it was due to flooding, but we needed to clean the spark plugs. They were pretty dirty so my brother took them out, cleaned them up and put them back. He then hooked up my car battery to his and started the car, after a bit of a grumble she started. A load of muck came out of the exhaust but since she's been absolutely fine and ...



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