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5

It wouldn't be a "security" concern, but it IS a safety concern. You are talking about your safety and the safety of those around you. If your vehicle does not stop as it should, your reaction time is increased, so you will not be stopping as soon as you would think you should, which could cause unanticipated results. My suggestion is that you update the ...


5

Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on. Unless you have a ...


3

The hazard lights in every car I've ever drive work whether the engine is turned on or not. The turn signals (indicators) work when the engine is turned on. It sounds like something is interrupting the power going into the turn signal switch when the engine is running. One possibility is that the alternator isn't working and so the engine is lowering the ...


3

I think that the computer's fuel consumption statistics don't actually come from the tank float. The consumption estimate comes from the injector duty cycle and fuel pressure. The computer probably has a map or graph between duty cycle and fuel pressure which tells how much fuel the injector will spray at any given cycle and pressure. Using this it ...


2

I take it from the description that the release lever now feels loose, i.e. there is no tension on the cable? We can therefore assume that the mechanism has partly released, but due to the ice did not spring up onto the catch. Have you tried getting a couple of fingers under the edge of the bonnet and giving it a sharp tug upwards? You could also try ...


2

Considering everything you've said to this point, it sounds like you have a bearing going out in your transmission. With your mileage, it wouldn't be unheard of. I would definitely have a respectable transmission shop in your area take a look at it. If it is a bearing, they can replace just the bearing (and any other worn part such as synchros and clutch -- ...


2

It could also be the Crank Position Sensor. It is mounted on the flywheel cover and if it gets contaminated with dust from the clutch it can stop the engine from starting. It confuses the average guy as it looks like either a fuel or ignition problem. It is held in position with two bolts. Might be awkward to get to. Hope this helps.


2

While your question is pretty thorough, I'm assuming a few things in this answer that you didn't clarify; When you crank the engine, and it doesn't start, I'm assuming it's a smooth crank without hiccups. By that I mean it isn't trying to start, it just cranks. You have the petrol model, not a diesel. It uses an electronic push-button start mechanism. ...


2

I suggest getting the rotors turned before replacing them (if they haven't been turned too many times before) You will save money this way depending on where you get them turned. Get new pads on both of the insides, and check the calipers. There is a good chance (depending on how old your vehicle is) that you may need to replace them. Check your brake pads ...


2

Since it is occurring on both sides with the same result, your problem lies with the switch on the column. There is an outside chance that the wiring harness connection which attaches to the switch might need reseated, so you could attempt that as well.


2

Checking several sights it should be on the front side of the engine. Near the middle of the block and under the fuel rail cover. Even in day light you may need a flashlight to locate it. It is by all accounts a royal pain to get at. Several queries were in regard to broken dip sticks. What this may mean is you can't find it because it has been broken off.


2

Looks like that's a piece of your brake rotor's dust shield. As techturtle said, its lack doesn't pose an immediate danger, but since it keeps debris out of the brakes, you should get it replaced at your earliest convenience to avoid undue wear. I don't have any specific knowledge of your car, but if replacing it does not involve moving the caliper, it ...


1

Fortunately from your description, it sounds like more of an annoyance than a real problem. It could be any one of numerous mounts/bushing on the car which are causing this. Finding it would be a real pain. If you like the car and can put up with the squeak, I'd bet it's nothing to worry about. It's not the throw out bearing or the clutch, because the noise ...


1

Your Megane can have a four speed or a five speed box. This means the clutch can be cable operated or hydraulic operated. On a cable clutch you can have squeaks from the clutch pedal bushing, the cable attachment at the pedal, and also from the cable itself. The cable wears internally on bends in the cable. The inner cable cuts through its neoprene inner ...


1

Once you have the nut off of the wiper arm, you may need a small puller to get the arm off. These have a splined mount with an interference, which means, as you tighten them down they become more tightly wedged onto the mount. By using a puller, it should pop right off. The puller used for these have long thin puller arms, so not like a puller you'd have for ...


1

It's probably a bearing in the clutch. There's a fair bit of labour in pulling a clutch, even just to inspect it, so I'd recommend ignoring it until other symptoms appear. eg turn up the stereo!


1

Tallmaris' means of determining fuel consumed per distance is correct, but could be made more precise by repeating the test several times until at least one thousand, and preferably two thousand, miles have been driven, keeping close track of the fuel consumed traveling those miles... starting with a full tank and ending with a full tank. Mike, too, is ...


1

Assuming you have spade fuses, you can use one of these [spade fuse taps](fuse spade tap) to get your power: It fits over the blade on the fuse, then you push the fuse down into its normal position in the fuse panel. You can connect the other end to a grounding point. To find one look for a metal nut or a bolt in the vicinity of your fuse panel. When ...


1

Well we solved it. We think it was due to flooding, but we needed to clean the spark plugs. They were pretty dirty so my brother took them out, cleaned them up and put them back. He then hooked up my car battery to his and started the car, after a bit of a grumble she started. A load of muck came out of the exhaust but since she's been absolutely fine and ...


1

If it's a recent car [e.g: it has electronic fuel injection, not a carb], floor the pedal and try to crank it with the pedal floored. It must be WOT. -- On fuel injected cars it's reading fuel/spark from a table. Flooring the pedal will force the computer to try flood clear mode, where it will spark but cut the fuel. (Counter-intuitive, I know, but ...


1

not knowing anything specifically about a Megane, you should be able to pull off the get behind the broken button (remove dash or arm rest or wherever the button is) and short the wires together.



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