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5

Not sure what it "should" be pulling, but anywhere near a whole amp is way too much and will drain the battery in no time. Are you sure you tested right? Often the pull when you first connect the battery can be a lot higher than the steady pull since you might be charging some capacitors, etc. If it stays that high you definitely have a problem, possibly a ...


5

Just FYI, I had a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (same basic engine and transmission I think, GM 3800 Series II engine) that the fuel pump relay went bad on. When you turned the key, you could here the pump power on and pressurize. The car would start and idle, but as soon as you put it in drive or pressed the gas, the engine would die. I've been told that ...


5

Very possible. Letting a fuel pump run dry can quickly burn out the motor in the pump. The presence of fluid keeps the impeller from rotating as quickly and the gasoline also cools the pump as it operates. Without gas flowing through it can quickly overheat. That being said however you may just have air in the lines. I am not sure whether your vehicle has a ...


5

Your question raises more issues than you probably thought. With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like this (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). Here is an article, which looks ...


3

Why are you assuming that the fuse is only for the AC fan? It seems really strange that only one of the fans would have a fuse on its circuit. Replace the fuse, since you'll have to do it anyway - if the fan still doesn't come on, then start looking at other possible causes.


2

It can be done with a power source and a standard VOM. Apply appropriate power source to appropriate pins while listening for click and looking for the desired effect (could be presence vs. absence of voltage or continuity/lack of) on the VOM which would be attached to the appropriate pins. You'll want a repair manual to find out what to replace ...


2

Your single bulb has two filaments, one for the low beam and one for the high beam. If you look at the back of the headlight bulb, there's three prongs. One is for the low beam, one is for the hi beam, and the last is the shared ground. The low beam and hi beam need to be turned on and off independently, so you need two relays. (image source ...


2

Use an electronic flasher. I have no idea if Tung Sol is still in business, but they made a very nice electronic flasher that simply replaced the old bi-metal unit. True plug-and-play operation: remove the old flasher, plug in the new. Note that even though this was classified as an electronic flasher, the only electronics inside was a really cool relay ...


2

It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing? If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well ...


1

Could you not just connect both the starter solenoid and the spark control wire to the single output of a standard automotive relay?


1

I had to do this recently, like Brian said you'll need a power source and a multimeter. Most relays have a wiring diagram printed on them and most automotive relays are 4 pronged. Two prongs will be your positive and negative power and the other two will be the bridge that is made. What I did, and this was a very very cheap method and suggest for possible ...


1

The relay has two independent NO contacts. Doesn't matter which is used. Also, the specific wiring locations of the horn and switch don't matter either, but this is the general idea.


1

I'm not sure there is anything physically wrong with your clutch or belt. The clutch is designed to be turned on and off as needed. You can test the clutch by locating the relay located in the engine side fuse panel, then jump the power to the clutch pin. You have to pull the relay to do this. If you can manually engage the clutch by doing this, you can ...


1

I have 01 Chevy Tahoe it will start up for about a second, idle up then shutters an then shutt down when given gas. I replace the mass air flow sensor thinking that was the problem but It was not. Then I replace the fuel pump relay did not work again. so I was thinking to sale it by then. But last an not lease the fuel pump fixed the problem.


1

If you want to build the relay setup yourself instead of using a commercially produced motorcycle headlight relay kit, you'll need two automotive relays, commonly called "Bosch relays". They should have a rating of at least 10A, which they nearly all do (generally you find them at least 20A). You need one relay for the low-beam, and one relay for the ...


1

Mine was pulling 3amps, 3.6 amps to be exact. What had happened was my Volt Regulator, that regulates how many volts run through your car, went bad. I had boosted and jump started my battery over 30 times, I knew it wasn't the alternator because in the 90s they didn't have the regulator in the alternator and if it was the Alternator the car would run dead on ...


1

You want to perform a Parasitic Battery Drain check, as shown here. Once you find the culprit, isolate and correct.


1

0.10 amps will kill your battery quick like, you should get it down as close to 0.00 amps as possible. My experience was that to keep the radio stations, etc. it takes about 0.01 amp on the meter. So yeah, you got something going on... In my case, it was the key lock light staying on and the door lights (or rather door light relays) staying on.


1

You should be able to pull them out with your hands, if it's the kind I am thinking of (in the fuse box under the hood) there is no latch or anything else holding them in.


1

As far as the fuses are concerned, it's never a bad idea to add a fuse to a particular section of a circuit that you're concerned about. For the high-beam fuses, in particular, I would start conservatively. Your average high beam (for a normal headlight) is 55 or 65 watts. In a 12 V circuit, that's less than 6 amps nominally. If you put in a 10 amp fuse, you ...



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