Hot answers tagged

12

Yes you can often repair turn signal flashers! A variety of things can be wrong: here's one of them. Solder joints on the relay printed circuit boards are especially vulnerable to stress cracks, due to the clicking motion day in and day out. Take the case off the relay and use a jeweler's loupe to inspect for hairline cracks, especially cracks those that ...


10

The reason for this is LEDs don't draw as much power as regular incandescent lights do. By putting the LEDs into the vehicle, you are making the vehicle believe the lights are out because of the lower draw. The indicators blink faster to indicate to you, the driver, there is a bulb out which needs to be changed. One way to fix this is to put a resistor in ...


8

This type of addon relay is intended to be mounted to any convenient existing bolt that you have available. As there is no standard for what size bolts to be used in an engine bay or around the body, there is no standard size recommendation for mounting this relay. What you will do is find an existing bracket or mount in the engine bay, then back the bolt ...


8

Legend to Codes E/G - Main is the relay for the Radiator fans. EFI - Is the electronic fuel injection relay. DIM - is the headlight dimmer relay. H-LP - is the headlamp relay. MG/C - is the air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch relay. ST - is the starter relay.


6

Your question raises more issues than you probably thought. With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like this (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). Here is an article, which looks ...


6

You can easily test a relay in a few simple steps. The required materials are as follows Digital Multimeter (with continuity setting) 12V power supply (Optional) Aligator clips for hands-free testing DO NOT USE YOUR BATTERY DIRECTLY FOR THE 12V SUPPLY, if you have nothing on hand and want to be safe please use a fused line from a harness or through the ...


6

Not sure what it "should" be pulling, but anywhere near a whole amp is way too much and will drain the battery in no time. Are you sure you tested right? Often the pull when you first connect the battery can be a lot higher than the steady pull since you might be charging some capacitors, etc. If it stays that high you definitely have a problem, possibly a ...


6

The power of your compressor is given by P = V x I = 12 x 30 = 360 W. This sounds about right. It sounds as though your compressor is badly made and that the pressure switch is not adequate for the job. You could try to modify like this. Figure 1. Relay control of compressor motor. Rewire the unit as shown. Use a 12 V relay rated for > 40 A. Your ...


6

I can think of several reasons straight away: Cheap Easy to replace Have a very distinctive click that makes it obvious when they are on, and when a bulb has failed Are very well understood Anyone can fit one without needing to understand much about electronics


5

Just FYI, I had a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (same basic engine and transmission I think, GM 3800 Series II engine) that the fuel pump relay went bad on. When you turned the key, you could here the pump power on and pressurize. The car would start and idle, but as soon as you put it in drive or pressed the gas, the engine would die. I've been told that ...


5

Very possible. Letting a fuel pump run dry can quickly burn out the motor in the pump. The presence of fluid keeps the impeller from rotating as quickly and the gasoline also cools the pump as it operates. Without gas flowing through it can quickly overheat. That being said however you may just have air in the lines. I am not sure whether your vehicle has a ...


4

Why are you assuming that the fuse is only for the AC fan? It seems really strange that only one of the fans would have a fuse on its circuit. Replace the fuse, since you'll have to do it anyway - if the fan still doesn't come on, then start looking at other possible causes.


4

It can be done with a power source and a standard VOM. Apply appropriate power source to appropriate pins while listening for click and looking for the desired effect (could be presence vs. absence of voltage or continuity/lack of) on the VOM which would be attached to the appropriate pins. You'll want a repair manual to find out what to replace "...


4

Your single bulb has two filaments, one for the low beam and one for the high beam. If you look at the back of the headlight bulb, there's three prongs. One is for the low beam, one is for the hi beam, and the last is the shared ground. The low beam and hi beam need to be turned on and off independently, so you need two relays. (image source http://www....


4

54 watts at 12v equates to 4.5A. That's not a lot. Any 20A automotive relay will the job. You can get both the relay and socket for the relay at almost any parts store. Here's what a 4-post looks like:


3

The headlight control unit is in the sealed portion of the box. It is a CAN network controller and not just a relay. If it has failed the whole box is to be replaced.


3

Use an electronic flasher. I have no idea if Tung Sol is still in business, but they made a very nice electronic flasher that simply replaced the old bi-metal unit. True plug-and-play operation: remove the old flasher, plug in the new. Note that even though this was classified as an electronic flasher, the only electronics inside was a really cool relay ...


3

Relay is here: That's in the driver's footwell. I believe it's above the fuse box, around the hood open latch. There's a plastic cover over the relays you'll have to pull off. There's one for the relays and one for the fuse box. It should just pull out and the new one can be popped right in. You'll have to pull hard.


3

Thank you guys for your advices. Yesterday i bought 2 regulators for the 2 doors. Now it works perfectly. 2 days ago the driver's door stuck in central locking and the window motors circuit doesnt pass power to the door lock. I had to open the locked door from the inside then at the moment that i changed the motor, the door opened from the door switch of the ...


3

My suggestion would be to chase the wiring directly rather than trying to identify all the parts of a system your mechanic did not even identify for you. If possible, find an electrical diagram for the car online. A Google search for 2001 volvo v70 wiring diagram turned up many images of wiring diagrams that should be very helpful. To trace this back, ...


3

You can't do that either way you tried. You need power +86 from the reverse wire, and a suitable ground path +85 for the other side of the coil. You'll have to add wire and find bare metal or another ground wire somewhere. The coil provides a resistance, such that very little current flows through it. This is why the reverse lights didn't come on in the ...


3

Neither of those diagrams would work the way you want them to. In diagram one power never reaches the lights as up to pin 86 is grounded. In diagram two power reaches the lights, but pin 86 is never grounded so the coil never closes. Try this. 85 and 86 are dependent on how the reverse light circuit works. If the circuit is normally grounded this ...


2

If you want to build the relay setup yourself instead of using a commercially produced motorcycle headlight relay kit, you'll need two automotive relays, commonly called "Bosch relays". They should have a rating of at least 10A, which they nearly all do (generally you find them at least 20A). You need one relay for the low-beam, and one relay for the high-...


2

Can be a lot of fun to track down electrical parasitic culprits? Had one battery draw that caused soft brake light bulb contacts to re-form into concave shape from convex shape touching brass wiring contacts. Caused from too much bulb heat? Never-ever saw brake lights on while parked with foot off brake either. Weird! Did track down to faulty brake light ...


2

Mine was pulling 3amps, 3.6 amps to be exact. What had happened was my Volt Regulator, that regulates how many volts run through your car, went bad. I had boosted and jump started my battery over 30 times, I knew it wasn't the alternator because in the 90s they didn't have the regulator in the alternator and if it was the Alternator the car would run dead on ...


2

You want to perform a Parasitic Battery Drain check, as shown here. Once you find the culprit, isolate and correct.


2

0.10 amps will kill your battery quick like, you should get it down as close to 0.00 amps as possible. My experience was that to keep the radio stations, etc. it takes about 0.01 amp on the meter. So yeah, you got something going on... In my case, it was the key lock light staying on and the door lights (or rather door light relays) staying on.


2

Could you not just connect both the starter solenoid and the spark control wire to the single output of a standard automotive relay?


2

It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing? If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well ...



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