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5

For completeness, if you haven't tried it yet, see if you can rotate the socket/bolt at all by hand to tighten it back in some. Now that you've broken the bolt open it may move by hand. If not, the socket wall should be able to hold up to some moderate clamping force so I would try a set of vice grips or other locking pliers if you have those available. ...


5

Rubber tubing is a cheap alternative to a stethoscope. You can buy a couple feet of it for a couple dollars at any hardware store, just be careful where you point it. Thank Click & Clack for that, it worked for me.


4

Use an auto repair stethescope or even a long socket extension as a substitute to listen to each pulley when you start the car. If it's truly a bearing issue you'll hear it right away when you find the affected part.


4

I tried numerous things. This is how I finally got myself out of the predicament: I jacked up the engine and then hammered out the socket wrench. Other things I tried or thought of trying: applying vise grips to the socket, didn't work jamming something thin, yet strong in between the wheel well trying to switch the ratchet in reverse, didn't work cut off ...


3

If this looks like your water pump, then yes you can: The tilt in the pulley is caused not from a broke shaft, but from a worn bushing which the shaft rides upon. This is just one of the symptoms which shows up when the pump is dying a short miserable death. As the bushing wears out, there is created more and more space (slop) which allows the shaft to ...


2

If you have the 6 cylinder you can check the status of the belt as indicated below, if it's at the service limit you should replace the belt.


2

If my calculations are correct and my SWAG (silly wild @$$ guess) of how much your ML350's belt contacts the power steering pump pulley, you will need a belt which is ~15.75mm longer (or 1.5cm) than what you have now. Here is my reasoning: This picture should represent your serpentine belt configuration: Pulley #4 is the power steering pump. You can see ...


2

I take it the above picture of the fan/pulley on the vehicle is not your vehicle, but a photo of the same thing from another vehicle? If it is your vehicle, wrap a belt completely around either ribbed pulley part and hold it on one side to gain purchase (grab both sides of the belt in one place with one hand). Believe me when I say this will give you more ...


1

The water pump pulley is usually bolted to the pump, and can be re-used.


1

I believe you can improvise over the approach shown in this diagram. Instead of using a spanner to 'lock' just one of the pulley bolts, try to use a long implement similar to the "special tool" depicted in the diagram to lock two pulley bolts in place. I have found great success with water-heater mounting brackets since they are thin enough and do not ...


1

A couple of Band-Aid type options. If the shaft extends past the pulley you could try to add a clamp-tite collar on both sides of the pulley. You can try to drill and tap a second setscrew hole in the pulley. Vibratite makes a retaining product that can be used with clearances up to .0150". Be warned it may be very difficult to remove the pulley without ...


1

In the absence of specific information, here are some general inspections that you can try: Does it turn at all? Most automotive pulleys should spin fairly freely without noise. Otherwise, you're going to have a fairly miserable driving experience from all the shrieking parts. If this is a load-bearing pulley, check the axle: is it straight? Does the ...


1

I eventually discovered there are basically two ways to do this. One is to use the part FossilizedCarlos mentioned, but you must also get an alternator spacer set, or else the brackets do not help much. I had previously purchased the bracket set but couldn't figure out how it was supposed to help. The spacer set is the missing link, although they are hard ...


1

Would something like this(1965-67 MOPAR BIG BLOCK W/O AC ALTERNATOR BRACKET SET) work?



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