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5

Not to be contrary to @JoshCaswell, but I'm seeing as how the left front/right rear are the same motor, as is the right front/left rear. Using the numbers he gave, I'm seeing the following as alternate parts numbers: FL/RR: 61188FE001, 61188FE002, 61188FE021, 61188FE022, 61188SA011, 62113FC100, 62188SA000, 62188SA001, 62188SA002, 63113FC100 FR/LR: ...


4

Pull down on the window with open hands or a big suction cup while someone operates the window switch, once it unsticks roll the window down all the way, then liberally spray the window channel rubbers with a high quality Silicone Spray. Let the spray dry then roll the window up and down several times. Depending how dry the channel rubbers are how many ...


4

More than likely the problem is the window motors are going bad. Most have a thermal switch in them (sort of like a resettable fuse) which will stop the motor from working when a heat threshold has been reached. There are several factors which cause this, including the grease thickening in the gears as it gets older. I've seen this in many different ...


3

Thank you guys for your advices. Yesterday i bought 2 regulators for the 2 doors. Now it works perfectly. 2 days ago the driver's door stuck in central locking and the window motors circuit doesnt pass power to the door lock. I had to open the locked door from the inside then at the moment that i changed the motor, the door opened from the door switch of the ...


3

Assuming you have tested the window switch and wiring to ensure it is the motor, there really is only one way to replace it, but it is fairly simple. You can find detailed directions with pictures here. 1) Remove the front door trim. *Caution, Do not apply excessive force to the clips. Otherwise the clip may be broken. Pull up the inner remote ...


3

You could try unplugging each lock switch one at a time(or all at once) and test to see if a switch is shorting. If the car has an aftermarket security system you could try removing it from the door lock system. The wire loom that run into the doors can also be suspect. You should probably have a locksmith look at your key and lock cylinder so that you ...


3

Based on the parts diagrams and lists on Opposed Forces, you are out of luck as far as using a rear door's motor. Each of the four doors has its own part number; the front right's number is 61188SA001 whereas the front left is 61188SA010. On the other hand, if you see the usage list for 61188SA001, this part seems to have been used on a wide range of S11 ...


2

It sounds like the regulator is worn out and will need to be replaced. I wouldn't try to force it up, or you could shatter the glass. The slides for the glass could also be at fault. Some windows incorporate both the slides and the regulator together ... some do not.


2

The fact that this is intermittent and that multiple windows are failing leads me to believe this is a break in the wiring inside the 'flex tube' between the door and the vehicle body. After thousands (if not millions) of times being bent back and forth with door openings, wire(s) inside the tube break. Closing/opening the door readjusts the break so ...


2

This is a weak point in Subarus. I have had a Forester non-turbo 2005 for a few years and I have found that, on occasion, the driver-side power window simply fails to operate. But after drawing from a bucket of patience and then trying sometime later, it will work OK. It now seems to have come good and I haven't seen the problem for a number of months. So ...


2

The body control module may regulate current flow. On older systems it was just a straight wire, no computer function. If the BCM is malfunctioning this would explain your issue. A bad ground can cause this as well. If it's a complicated circuit, sometimes you have a ground for up and ground for down. Sounds more like a BCM issue though. You need to trace ...


2

Without pointing out the oblivious the best thing to do would be to start from the battery and work your way to each control with a multi-meter and find out exactly what's causing it, if the controls aren't getting power then chances are it's either a fuse, something wired up wrong or a burnt out wire(less likely because the fuse would just blow)


2

You mention having a bad door latch and having to slam the door. :) Here is what I would do: Remove interior panel. Fish out all of the loose parts. Including bolts/nuts in the bottom. With the window all the way up (fully closed) try and mount the motor in place. Bolt it in. Turn the ignition switch on and test it. Pay attention to the motor and ...


2

The most common cause of these symptoms is failure of the main window switch. It is not common for the door switches to fail. Water intrusion into the motor units is common on this model. It usually presents as slow movement at first, followed by failure. During the period of time that it is moving slowly it is drawing more power which stresses the switches. ...


2

If it is the same as a Forester, There is a much simpler method than that listed in poisson's answer. Remove door card and seal cover, and unscrew and remove the switch panel. Slacken off the 4 bolts holding the regulator assembly to the door. Unplug the motor from the loom Reach into the door, and undo the three bolts holding the motor in. You will have ...


1

You might be lucky and find that it's only the switch that is bad - that's an easy fix as the switches simply plug in. If it's not that, then it's probably the motor going rotten, as per timbo's car...


1

If you are going to fix this yourself it sounds a lot like either the wiring or switches for the door lock system is at fault. The door lock is just a solenoid (a relay like device except instead of changing electrical contacts it moves a plunger) so it's getting toggled somehow when you don't want it to. So, something is applying power to the solenoid on a ...


1

Try circuit #34 or #35. You don't necessarily have to do this in the vehicles fusebox. For instance; when I used to install a lot of Alpine audio/visual equipment, their ceiling-mounted LCD/DVD players had LEDs which required wiring up separately. So I would splice their power-feed directly into (out of) the original interior light's pre-existing wiring ...


1

We wired our LED's to interior light via switch on door as interior light stay's on for a while until car is locked.


1

On a modern car, the ECUs (electronic control units) will be deciding when different functions will work. For example, it knows to switch power to the window circuits until you open and close the door. The ECU could be controlling a relay that switches the power to the windows off when you shut the door. The fuse that you are connecting to will be before ...


1

If you have electric controls, then it's possible that the little metal clips inside the switches have broken off or bent enough to no longer make contact. I have to rebuild the passenger switch in my 01 Dodge Ram 1500 every now and then for the same reason. If none of the controls work on any of the windows, then it could be a severed or disconnected wire ...


1

If both headlights cease to work at the same time, this leads us to the idea that the fault is probably not in the bulbs, but in some part that is on a common path between the electrical supply and the lights. Some points you could take a look at are: Fuse! This is probably the easiest explanation. Take a look in your fuse box (often under the dash, ...


1

In Upstate New York, we have 4 Seasons Winter, Winter, Winter, and Summer. Silicon rubber dressing WORKS (such as Armor All!!!!), it is thick, use poly cloth to apply sparingly to weather strip where door and window freezes. Do 3 or 4 times a season.


1

My S60R had the same problem on the driver side window. Hold the button fully in order to close the window, but hold it when it gets to the top for 10 seconds. You will hear the window "nudge" from inside the door. Then immediately release and fully press the button again. It should now go up and stay up when using the auto function of the switch. It seems ...



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