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4

Not to be contrary to @JoshCaswell, but I'm seeing as how the left front/right rear are the same motor, as is the right front/left rear. Using the numbers he gave, I'm seeing the following as alternate parts numbers: FL/RR: 61188FE001, 61188FE002, 61188FE021, 61188FE022, 61188SA011, 62113FC100, 62188SA000, 62188SA001, 62188SA002, 63113FC100 FR/LR: ...


4

Most likely cause is a bad motor. Give the bottom of the door panel a good whack. Careful if it's cold as you can crack the door panel. This may be enough to jar the brushes in the motor to make it work long enough to get the window up. Another way to tell if it's the window motor is with the dome light on, watch the light when you push the up or down ...


2

What I've found in several of these is that the motor itself is fine, but it's internal thermal fuse goes bad (becomes higher resistance giving less voltage to the motor). I've even replaced the thermal fuse for a couple bucks and the motors then work like new. I wouldn't recommend doing this unless you are familiar with soldering and electronics.


2

I got it worked out. I hadn't realized there were pins sticking out of the bottom of the window into the lift plate - window had to be moved laterally (and pretty forcefully), not just up. A mechanic in my area took 5 minutes to come out and help me in his parking lot and figured it out. Props to Auto Doctor in Crofton, MD, for anyone in this area.


2

Sounds like the both front window run channels are dirty and dry may want to try cleaning and run some silicone spray down rubber run channels


2

Side windows are tempered glass. They are made to shatter into a million pieces (as you just found out). All it takes is pressure in the right place in the right direction to have it shatter. Can it being off track cause this? I would assume there was just enough stress in the right place and that's all she wrote. I had shut a car door once with the window ...


2

It sounds like the regulator is worn out and will need to be replaced. I wouldn't try to force it up, or you could shatter the glass. The slides for the glass could also be at fault. Some windows incorporate both the slides and the regulator together ... some do not.


2

Based on the parts diagrams and lists on Opposed Forces, you are out of luck as far as using a rear door's motor. Each of the four doors has its own part number; the front right's number is 61188SA001 whereas the front left is 61188SA010. On the other hand, if you see the usage list for 61188SA001, this part seems to have been used on a wide range of S11 ...


2

The fact that this is intermittent and that multiple windows are failing leads me to believe this is a break in the wiring inside the 'flex tube' between the door and the vehicle body. After thousands (if not millions) of times being bent back and forth with door openings, wire(s) inside the tube break. Closing/opening the door readjusts the break so ...


1

If you have electric controls, then it's possible that the little metal clips inside the switches have broken off or bent enough to no longer make contact. I have to rebuild the passenger switch in my 01 Dodge Ram 1500 every now and then for the same reason. If none of the controls work on any of the windows, then it could be a severed or disconnected wire ...


1

If both headlights cease to work at the same time, this leads us to the idea that the fault is probably not in the bulbs, but in some part that is on a common path between the electrical supply and the lights. Some points you could take a look at are: Fuse! This is probably the easiest explanation. Take a look in your fuse box (often under the dash, ...


1

It will either be a problem with the switch or with the regulator (motor). Usually if it's the motor, it will overheat and stop working (partially roll down and stop), then after a while it will work again and move the window another inch or two. If it's the switch, it could partially work or not at all. It is highly unlikely it would be the wiring, as it ...


1

It is because of the broken electric window. Mine does the same, trying to find out if the opel garage can disable it as it's very annoying when it honks twice while locking it in a parking lot. I disconnected my hooter but that is causing more of a danger than solving the loud honking noise when locking the car...


1

You can buy the plastic clips on eBay from around £2($4) the pair. The plastic does not stick well enough, even with super glue. Not really a repairable item.



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