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If the open one is still on the track, it may stay up if you can get it get back up and pull the fuse the windows are on. If it's partially off the track (one of the rollers has popped out) or the mechanism and / or motor are really shot, you might have to pull off the door panel and rig something up to keep it in place until you can fix it or have it ...

Based on your wiring diagram, the relay is inside the switch, and based on that it's not serviceable. Based on the picture you posted here That black square box on the switch (tyco) is the relay. Here is are the specs (PDF) Here is a where you can buy it Based on that I would say it's replaceable, with some soldering required. It would take some ...

If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any). Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty. If no voltage ...

How old is the car? I think it's worth checking the fault codes, as sometimes a fault code can prevent an action like that. Clearing the fault codes can really improve a car if it hasn't had a computer connected in a while. Any faults which are persistent will come back and can then be worked on.

Can you post a picture of how it has cracked? It is hard to propose how to repair without seeing the specific damage. As for taking the door apart. Taking an inner door panel off isn't a very difficult or time consuming task in most vehicles it may take 30minutes if you are new to it. It shouldn't be required usually power window switches can be accessed by ...

In this case, as the reset procedure requires the motor to turn freely through between 6 and 10 revolutions - without being connected to the window mechanism etc. you prehaps don't need to remove it from the door, but you will need to ensure it is disconnected from the mechanism, and this could be easiest if it is removed entirely. You will also be able to ...

Intermittent open / short / bad ground in the wiring, flaky motors, or bad switches. You could pull a door panel and get busy with a multimeter when one is misbehaving. Assuming the circuit is fused, which it should be, you could probe at the fuse block and maybe localize a wiring fault to one side of the fuse. You could always take the shotgun ...

Well according to my Haynes repair manual for a Nissan Armada 2005-2010 year model the power windows are protected by fuses and a circuit breaker. The fuses are located in the fuse panel and each motor is equipped with an internal circuit breaker, this prevents one stuck window from disabling the whole system.

Before investing in new switches, you might consider testing the wiring as well. Run your own, known-good wires from the switches to the window motor (this will require removing the interior trim from the door), and see what happens. While you have the door apart, you could also try lubricating the window mechanism. It might just be sticking.

Unfortunately there were no useful fault codes internally, but the fault was resolved to being the actuator switch for that window. A replacement was the only course of action. Update - got the full diagnostics. Turns out the switch had a fault which damaged part of the motor, so both were replaced!