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6

If the open one is still on the track, it may stay up if you can get it get back up and pull the fuse the windows are on. If it's partially off the track (one of the rollers has popped out) or the mechanism and / or motor are really shot, you might have to pull off the door panel and rig something up to keep it in place until you can fix it or have it ...


5

Your window motor and/or regulator is going out. What happens is, the window motors have a thermal trip which tells them to stop when they get too hot. As a vehicle gets older, the window regulator and slides don't slide/move as well, so creates a lot more friction. The window motor starts wearing out because of this and more heat is produced, thus shutting ...


5

If there was a weakness or chip, the slight bending placed on a pane of glass by turning could be enough to shatter it. When you turn a corner in any car there is flex in the chassis - usually this wouldn't be enough to cause any problems though, as there is rubber holding the window in place and this should flex enough, so I can only assume something had ...


5

If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any). Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty. If no voltage ...


5

Most likely cause is a bad motor. Give the bottom of the door panel a good whack. Careful if it's cold as you can crack the door panel. This may be enough to jar the brushes in the motor to make it work long enough to get the window up. Another way to tell if it's the window motor is with the dome light on, watch the light when you push the up or down ...


5

Not to be contrary to @JoshCaswell, but I'm seeing as how the left front/right rear are the same motor, as is the right front/left rear. Using the numbers he gave, I'm seeing the following as alternate parts numbers: FL/RR: 61188FE001, 61188FE002, 61188FE021, 61188FE022, 61188SA011, 62113FC100, 62188SA000, 62188SA001, 62188SA002, 63113FC100 FR/LR: ...


4

I have had the same issue three times with two different vehicles. Check out www.shimjim.com for a temporary fix. It is a rubber wedge that inserts between the window and the inside window trim. James


4

Based on your wiring diagram, the relay is inside the switch, and based on that it's not serviceable. Based on the picture you posted here That black square box on the switch (tyco) is the relay. Here is are the specs (PDF) Here is a where you can buy it Based on that I would say it's replaceable, with some soldering required. It would take some ...


4

In this case, as the reset procedure requires the motor to turn freely through between 6 and 10 revolutions - without being connected to the window mechanism etc. you prehaps don't need to remove it from the door, but you will need to ensure it is disconnected from the mechanism, and this could be easiest if it is removed entirely. You will also be able to ...


4

More than likely the problem is the window motors are going bad. Most have a thermal switch in them (sort of like a resettable fuse) which will stop the motor from working when a heat threshold has been reached. There are several factors which cause this, including the grease thickening in the gears as it gets older. I've seen this in many different ...


4

Pull down on the window with open hands or a big suction cup while someone operates the window switch, once it unsticks roll the window down all the way, then liberally spray the window channel rubbers with a high quality Silicone Spray. Let the spray dry then roll the window up and down several times. Depending how dry the channel rubbers are how many ...


3

How old is the car? I think it's worth checking the fault codes, as sometimes a fault code can prevent an action like that. Clearing the fault codes can really improve a car if it hasn't had a computer connected in a while. Any faults which are persistent will come back and can then be worked on.


3

Can you post a picture of how it has cracked? It is hard to propose how to repair without seeing the specific damage. As for taking the door apart. Taking an inner door panel off isn't a very difficult or time consuming task in most vehicles it may take 30minutes if you are new to it. It shouldn't be required usually power window switches can be accessed by ...


3

You never know where used parts come from, unless you remove them, and even then you never know their state. I would suggest a new one, and hopefully from a reputable manufacturer. Also, I rarely saw motors go bad, as it was usually the window regulator that failed and would seize the window. The labor is usually around the same, but motors are about 3 times ...


3

Sounds like the power window motors are dying. It's actually a fairly rare situation though, usually switches fail first. Might be worth pulling the switches and checking/cleaning them just to make sure you're not actually having some sort of weird intermittent switch connection that's making the motor appear to be weak.


3

Look in the underhood fuse box, it may be a maxi-fuse, or a circuit breaker. However they are not fused separately so if the other windows work it's not the fuse. The most common cause is the motor. One thing you can do is sitting in the car with the dome light on push the window button up and down and see if you notice the dome light get a little dimmer ...


3

This is what the mechanism should look like. You'll have to find a way to get at the three gold screws that hold the motor to the rest of the assembly. This will allow you to disengage the motor, so the rest of the assembly can move freely. Be careful: once you disengage the motor the window could drop and break. You'll want to get somebody to hold it, ...


3

The cheapest, easiest thing you can try is to disconnect your battery for 30 minutes (check your owner's manual for the proper way of doing this). When you connect the battery again, your electric windows would have reset their soft limits (so called because the SOFTware learns what "fully open" and "fully closed" "feels" like). You'll notice that your ...


3

You can apply car wax to the top/side weatherstrip - frost won't stick to wax. I don't like the fact that it automatically energizes the window, though; I've seen an awful lot of window bottom weatherstrips destroyed when heavily frosted windows were rolled down further than about 1/8". You live in a climate very similar to my own, too. You may be forced to ...


3

Based on the parts diagrams and lists on Opposed Forces, you are out of luck as far as using a rear door's motor. Each of the four doors has its own part number; the front right's number is 61188SA001 whereas the front left is 61188SA010. On the other hand, if you see the usage list for 61188SA001, this part seems to have been used on a wide range of S11 ...


3

Assuming you have tested the window switch and wiring to ensure it is the motor, there really is only one way to replace it, but it is fairly simple. You can find detailed directions with pictures here. 1) Remove the front door trim. *Caution, Do not apply excessive force to the clips. Otherwise the clip may be broken. Pull up the inner remote ...


3

You could try unplugging each lock switch one at a time(or all at once) and test to see if a switch is shorting. If the car has an aftermarket security system you could try removing it from the door lock system. The wire loom that run into the doors can also be suspect. You should probably have a locksmith look at your key and lock cylinder so that you ...


3

Thank you guys for your advices. Yesterday i bought 2 regulators for the 2 doors. Now it works perfectly. 2 days ago the driver's door stuck in central locking and the window motors circuit doesnt pass power to the door lock. I had to open the locked door from the inside then at the moment that i changed the motor, the door opened from the door switch of the ...


2

Well according to my Haynes repair manual for a Nissan Armada 2005-2010 year model the power windows are protected by fuses and a circuit breaker. The fuses are located in the fuse panel and each motor is equipped with an internal circuit breaker, this prevents one stuck window from disabling the whole system.


2

Most of the stuff in the cabin of your car (power windows, radio, etc.) are commonly grouped together on the fuse labeled 'ACC'. This fuse is located in the fusebox under the hood or in a seperate fusebox located inside the cabin. Please consult your manual for the location of the fusebox(es) and a diagram of all the fuses. However, when one window doesn't ...


2

Sounds like the both front window run channels are dirty and dry may want to try cleaning and run some silicone spray down rubber run channels


2

Ever try rolling a power window up when it is already up? It tries, but it doesn't go anywhere--and nothing breaks. The answer is no; it does not matter where the output shaft/gear of the motor meshes with the driven gear.


2

I got it worked out. I hadn't realized there were pins sticking out of the bottom of the window into the lift plate - window had to be moved laterally (and pretty forcefully), not just up. A mechanic in my area took 5 minutes to come out and help me in his parking lot and figured it out. Props to Auto Doctor in Crofton, MD, for anyone in this area.


2

It's probably the switches. The contacts do degrade over time. They can usually be cleaned if you know what you are doing, but most people would recommend just replacing them. Also if the windows have limit switches, these could also be sticking.


2

Intermittent open / short / bad ground in the wiring, flaky motors, or bad switches. You could pull a door panel and get busy with a multimeter when one is misbehaving. Assuming the circuit is fused, which it should be, you could probe at the fuse block and maybe localize a wiring fault to one side of the fuse. You could always take the shotgun ...



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