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7

Power steering fluids, like most, vary in color. Personally, mine is clear. Brown sounds like an unusual color to manufacture, but a very deep reservoir of clear or slightly dirty fluid might look brown. Or, they might have mixed two different brands of fluid, for example if it was topped off at an oil change. Try sticking a clean rod into the reservoir. ...


7

Part number 89020661 has now been replaced by 89021182. The description of the newer fluid is (from Amazon.com - same in other places): Amber-colored, light-bodied mineral oil Contains a specially developed additive Anti-corrosive and non foaming Formulated for automotive use For use in vehicles with regular hydraulic power steering systems Typically, ...


7

tl;dr: Steering feedback means different things to different people. Ultimately, however, it's about using the steering wheel as both an input and an output device. At a very high level, the concept of steering feedback has to do with the user interface of the car. If we restrict the discussion to just the wheel in front of you, it's easy to imagine that ...


6

The 'foaming' you describe is almost certainly air getting into the system. The power steering pump will cause a suction effect in the pump and then pressurise the system. Look for loose hose clips, damaged piping, and leaking seals on the pump body between the pump and its fluid reservoir.


5

As a general rule, high pressure hoses will have crimped connections on them. The small clamp connectors are on the pump feed and return hoses, which are low pressure lines. They typically don't leak as often as the high pressure ones do. The high pressure line, according to the diagram you posted, comes from the PS pump and enters the rack. There is a ...


5

Not knowing the exact state of the power steering fluid in the first place, I would be hard pressed to tell you it was a scam. I'm sure they performed the service for which you paid, so at least that portion of it is not a scam. With that said, you and everyone else should know, this is a typical way that places like Jiffy Lube (or other quick oil change ...


4

With power steering complaints such as yours where the symptom is intermittent the diagnosis is mostly guesswork in a setting such as this. You can do a few things to get to the source though. A little about modern power steering Many vehicles have power steering assist controls such as a vehicle speed sensors and pressure switches/solenoids that stage the ...


4

Quoting the factory service manual for a 2005 Jeep Wrangler (Page 0-6): POWER STEERING FLUID The recommended fluid for power steering system is Mopar ATF+4. Mopar ATF+4, when new is red in color. The ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is ...


4

The BMW power steering reservoir's usually say "ATF Only" on the caps as well.


4

A lot of BMWs have a noise, but it might be a pump going bad. If I remember right, the lines are right under the reservoir. Check them for softness, and if they are soft/chewy I guess you can replace them. If it's a pump, run until it pops, as they are like $400. As far as the lines from the rack, those are hard lines, and unless clearly pinched not sure if ...


4

A - You can replace the seals in the pump if your pump is leaking. I've never done this on a Subaru, but this link should help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123004 B - I checked at my local Subaru dealer and their price for parts only would be $370 plus tax. Maybe your dealer was including installation? C - As far as the reliability ...


4

Is the noise coming from the steering itself, or from the tyres? i.e does it make the noise as you are turning the steering wheel, or does it still do it as you hold the wheel steady during the turn? If it is the latter (the "hollywood tyre squeal" effect), that is quite common, particularly on the smooth concrete you tend to find in multi-story car parks. ...


4

If replacing the power steering pump triggers a fault code, all you need is one of these to reset it: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS509-Scanner-vehicles/dp/B0056VHZD8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1355944663&sr=1-2&keywords=EOBD+reader Someone can feel free to come along and prove me wrong here because I'm not 100% sure how ...


3

I am not positive from the picture but if that is screwed into the steering rack it's the Front sub-steering angle sensor. If it's in a hose which seems more likely to me it's the power steering pressure switch. Pictured below Link to Autozone site for part Power steering pressure switch reports power steering high pressures to the on-board computer ...


3

One car of mine has red, the other is yellowy-clear. More important than the color is the smell. If it smells burnt, that could be an indication of a problem.


3

My power-steering pump failed about 2 months after the noise you described. I'm in an E46 3 Series. The noise would be louder when turning at a slower speed than it would at a higher speed. Dealer labour and part came to $1600 CAD, warranty saved me there.


3

I had this same problem. You need a replacement orange O-ring with part 91345-RDA-A01. This video will show you the problem in great detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc BTW, if you have a V6, there is a recall on a possible leak in one of the power steering hoses. You may want to have that checked out as well.


3

There's a chance that the belt may be slipping when you hit the puddle...and as a result you may be losing feedback. How long are you without power steering?


3

I did some research on thread locking compound, and found that heat should be applied to the bolt to loosen its grip. I heated the bolt using a standard small torch with MAP gas for about two minutes. The bolt came out fine with about 80 ft-pounds of force.


3

Looseness in the steering box can cause handling issues as the wheels will drift left to right as you make steering corrections. If this is a used steering box it may need to be adjusted. This typically involves loosening the jam nut on the preload adjustment screw and turning in the preload screw in 1/8 increments until the freeplay is removed. The other ...


3

This "MAY" be caused by undue wear on power steering pump.The worst culprit is steering whilst stationary.Can also cause "scrubbing" of your tyres


3

The screeching and fluid on the ground you have described is typical of a large system leak on your power steering. You will need to have a mechanic/repair shop look at your system. Do not drive the vehicle, firstly because of the safety implications and secondly because driving the vehicle will extend any damage that may have been caused.


3

This is called "cramping" the steering and it is bad for the pump and for the steering rack. What you are doing is forcing the system to try and push the steering components further than what they are meant to go. This causes over pressure on the pump (you may hear a slight squeal sound of the belt as the pump momentarily stalls), and it creates a bind in ...


2

What you are describing sounds like activation of the automatic's kickdown switch. Which is just that, a switch that forces the engine to downshift to provide more immediate acceleration. This is normal, and is usually a physical switch attached to the end of the gas pedal's travel path. It is activated when, say, 90% or more throttle depressed. Newer cars ...


2

Yes, use ATF(Automatic Transmission Fluid) instead of normal Power Steering Fluid.


2

I'd suspect worn tie rod ends. Grab hold of one and give it a twist and see if there's any play. If it's not too worn, you may be able to grease it and avoid replacement. You should also check your power steering fluid, but if that's low I'd expect it would creak on both left and right turns.


2

Odds are high that the power steering rack itself is leaking. Start looking around there. Doesn't take a big leak, may not be any obvious spots left under the car.


2

Did he say why you needed new lower control arms? Usually the bushings just need to be replaced not the entire control arm. If he was talking about the CV joints needing to be replaced, they have seals and rubber boots that cover them. If the rubber boots or seals have cracked due to being old, it could let the grease escape from the CV joint. Then as the ...


2

It looks like this is a Automotive 12.5-4.4V adapter to a PC Regulated 12.0V/5.0V ATX adapter for a motherboard (hence the chokes) with a small LED output. The first thing you need to figure out is the wiring input: Red = +12V?, Ignition/On? Black = Ground? White = +12V? Ignition/On? +12V Constant - The power requirement isn't too great (fused at 10A) ...



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