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6

You should not notice any difference. Here's why: 1 hp = 746 W. This means that 60 W is 0.08 hp. The worst possible scenario from a load perspective is at idle. Assuming the engine is outputting a measly 5 hp at idle, the extra load would work out to 1.6 % of this value. The change in fuel consumption is barely sensible.


3

I would look at the item you are plugging into the outlet rather then the outlet. Most of the time the cheap USB chargers aren't built correctly. Some times you can just put a flat screwdriver under the wings on the side and pry them up so they stick out more. Another option would be to use an adapter like this. With some tom foolery you could just wire in ...


3

I was able to see the grounding points by crawling under the dash. The grounds looked visually good, the screws are tight. So, I tried replacing the 12V power outlet with a new aftermarket outlet. The issue is gone. Strange that the one bad outlet actually caused both outlets to blow fuses when power was drawn.


3

One way round your problem would be too have a second battery, together with diode pack and wiring to charge it independantly. If your intention is too camp out in remote areas, you really dont want to saddle the vehicles system with any loads. Alternatively a generator for your machine. A continuous 6amp load overnight is quite a high demand on a regular ...


3

I would go with the more expensive one in this case. Typical output of a "good" system is in the neighborhood of 13.1vdc. Depending on the alternator and how much it needs to put out to recharge the battery, it could be upwards of 14vdc (or maybe a touch higher). The power output from the 12v outlet source is going to reflect what the alternator is putting ...


3

The voltage available on the "Accessory" circuits on some modern (last 10 years, at least) can be pretty stable at 12-12.5V. Ignition circuits, not so much (9-14V). To be safe, however, you should measure with a fast acting (ie, analog) voltmeter on the cigarette lighter in the following conditions: Key on, engine off Key on, engine cranking (likely it's ...


2

Don't go with that model for automotive use. It passes through the "12v" input directly to the motherboard and drives, meaning you'll be delivering ~14v with the engine running, and all sorts of ugly voltages during cranking, near-stall, etc. situations. I would highly recommend this more expensive model: ...


2

It really depends on the battery, not the car. The car will have a very small drain for the radio presets and fob receiver, but not much. A typical Lead-Acid battery has around a 100 minute reserve capacity. Reserve capacity being how long it takes a 25 amp discharge to lower the voltage to unusable levels. That's roughly 41 Ah. Your 6A will lower it too ...


2

Rather than connecting it to something in the display, you should run a hot lead down to your fuse panel and tie in there. You'll still need some way to reduce the voltage. Car battery voltage is 12+ vdc. The power which goes out through a USB device is 5vdc. In order to achieve this, you'll need to some how hide the power adapter behind the dash (or up ...


2

By far the most common electrical problem, especially in cases like this where "mysterious" things happen, is a bad ground. They're usually very hard to find but very easy to fix once found. Basically you want to use a multimeter to measure the connection between the negative battery terminal and different places on your car that should be grounded, like the ...


2

I must admit, I've gone for a very low-tec solution to this in the past: Blu-Tack. Simple, not the most elegant, but effective :)



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