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14

In the case where you run it too hot, you could start messing up your head gasket or warping the head itself. If you have to, in a warm climate, use distilled water or just keep replacing the antifreeze until you can get it somewhere, after which you'll have to have the whole system flushed. If you live in a cold climate your engine block could freeze and ...


10

I would not recommend driving with an empty radiator, that could cause the engine to overheat as well as damaging the water pump.


6

It depends on how much you are leaking. I've had a leak in a radiator and had to take it somewhere a few times, here's what I usually do. Fill the radiator completely full of water. If you can get it loaded, and it takes more than a few minutes to drain, you can proceed to step two. Drive slower than normal to your destination. Keep a spare gallon of water ...


5

A much cheaper option then towing, but which will ensure that nothing gets damaged, is for you just to fix the leak temporarily on the spot with some putty. I've seen cheap putty specifically for the purpose of fixing leaking radiators sold at many gas/petrol filling stations.


3

I managed to pull over and change to the spare wheel in about 30 minutes (having never changed a tire before! Lesson learned!) Well done. It's not the world's most challenging job but you can hurt yourself if you're stressed (say after a blowout). Whilst driving after the jump start and while the battery was still very low on power, I noticed ...


3

Your Peugeot cruise control is 'speed sensitive'. Sixth gear cruise control requires a road speed of 70-75 MPH. The gearbox computes the gear required to maintain a given road speed, if you select a gear to high for the speed you are doing cruise control is switched 'off', to prevent the engine from labouring.


3

The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off. I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...


3

The squeaking doesn't seem to be keeping up with the rotation of the motor, so that might imply a pully with a smaller diameter than the others. I agree with S_Niles assessment for the most part; it sounds like metal scraping or a hard belt slipping. One thing you might try on the belt is to rub a bar of soap on the inside of the belt. That will be enough ...


3

Edit: I wrote this when the title mentioned "squealing" noises. Since the noise description has changed, I'll have to get to a computer with audio to see if the video helps. I left the original post intact, because it may still be worthwhile to eliminate the serpentine belt and pulleys as a noise source. Original post: First thing that comes to mind is the ...


3

Turned out when I whacked the dimmer switch for the dash lights and the speedometer etc section came to life (back-light came on). Clock is still not working but if I spend a bit more time on that I should be able establish what's wrong, I may have actually blown the back-light bulb for it. (I will update)


2

It's real easy to pinch a wire when working in the dash area. If not a short that blows a fuse, a wire may have gotten cut clean through.


2

Well, yes, it's possible because it happened. Remember, your rotors aren't made of diamond. Worse, they're spinning rapidly and the brake pads are pressed into the disk with tremendous force. As a result, if you have the bad luck to get a particularly robust stone, nail or other debris in under the pad, it will machine away the rotor as it spins. With ...


2

Very true. I run my cars in dirt/gravel events and the rotors get pretty scored up from gravel working its way in between the pads and rotors. It makes horrendous screeching noises too. :-)


2

They may have replaced the vacuum solenoids but it sounds like the wastegate still isn't opening smoothly. If you can see the wastegate, apply vacuum slowly to the vacuum line and see if it moves smoothly through it's motion, especially when initially opening. If not, it probably still needs cleaning. Under acceleration it needs the boost, but under ...


2

If I remember correctly (and if it is the same as other Peugeots of that era), there is a bolt as part of the mount that passes through a hole in the roof and is secured with a nut on the inside - this can be accessed, as you suggest, by removing the interior light. ISTR the wire then ran down the right-hand windscreen pillar, but there was a connector up ...


1

It looks like it is down the side of the engine, on the left-hand side... It would appear that the filler is part of the oil recirculation system, there should be a hose going down into a round thing, the top of which should pull off (with the hose still attached) to allow you to top it up... This site has a scan of the owner's manual, Pages 5 and 51 seem ...


1

If the bubbles are in the fuel line that leads to the high pressure pump, then air in the system would reduce the pumps ability to pressurise the fuel correctly. Diesel injectors require high pressure fuel in order to achieve proper atomisation; liquids don't burn, so the fuel needs to enter the cylinder in very fine droplets in order for a clean burn to ...


1

Under hard braking it is possible to lock a wheel. If you lock a wheel without disengaging the clutch you will stall the engine even if you are still moving. If however the stall occurs while the clutch is disengaged or while you are in neutral then either you are somehow losing voltage and therefore spark, or the brake vacuum is somehow effecting your ...


1

Problem solved, here are two problems I had to fix The ECU option is the one after the BSI one, it doesn't have ECU in its name, just a code. If your cruise control stick does not have speed limit, do not activate it on BSI or in ECU. Does anyone knows how to trick the limit to allow it to work in 3rd gear under 35mph?


1

I would suggest your best bet is to either speak to a mechanic you trust about it or get down to your nearest breakers yard and show them the part. Also Googling the part number can sometimes give some good results. To answer your question directly, if you don't get the part from a car that matches your cars specification then there is a high chance ...


1

Factory repair manual is a bit sketchy about it, but here what it says (translated from Russian version): Put the roof in the intermediate position (I suppose, somewhere in the middle between fully open and fully closed). Cut out (?) and remove the carpet (1 on the figure). That cutting out bit puzzles me. Maybe, just pull out from under the trim? ...


1

Battery is probably the first thing to check, but given that it's a Diesel with cold start problems I would also get the glow plugs checked or check them yourself if it still has them.


1

The colours Larry listed are the ISO standard ones, which it seems Peugeot don't follow. The permanent live should be pin 7, which is the thick blue wire in your photo. The thin blue wire in pin 4 should be live when the ignition is on. Pin 8 (yellow & green) should be ground, and pin 5 (white) should power the electic aerial. The others are ignored in ...


1

Been told that this is normal. That it is blinking when car is locked.


1

It is possible, but it needs a lot of work and probably has to be done by a professional. First, you need to get the automatic panel with the LED screen. Then you need to change lots of wirings and stuff. The most difficult part is changing the air outlets. On the manual models the air outlets (the ones you use to let the air from outside in you car) are ...


1

Have you tried some kind of penetrating oil? And possibly asking the parts store if there is a puller tool?


1

I'm not sure about the 206, but my old 306 (1995) had a cable clutch with a self-adjuster, and the latter quite regularly got itself out of adjustment - The trick was to undo the clutch end of the cable, which was fairly easy to get to, and give it several sharp tugs to reset the adjuster, then re-attach it and pump the pedal a few times to adjust it back ...


1

Shouldn't be an indicator of anything bad or a cable replacement needed, although worth checking while you have the car looked at. Just an adjustment of the clutch cable length should be all that is required. It's very quick and easy to do to set it up to the height you feel comfortable with. There should be an automatic adjuster on the pedal, so this may ...



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