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10

You have severe case of corrosion. The part is called the lower control arm. Its function is to maintain the tire in the correct position. Do not attempt to drive the vehicle. In the best case scenario you will cause more damage, the tire could hit the fender, the axle could separate or you can bend something else. In the worst case you kill someone when ...


6

It is a guide for the window as it closes. It is only needed for closing the window when traveling at higher speeds as the airflow sucks the window outward. Why you see it on cheaper cars probably has to do with the thickness of the glass and the build of the window frame.


5

This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:


4

It really depends on what the piece is you are talking about. Some vehicles have an air dam on the bottom of the car which forces air to flow through the radiator while the vehicle is running down the road. This piece would (in its normal position) extend directly down under neath the radiator core. You'd also have a space just in front of the piece where ...


4

This appears to be a dust shield (or sometimes called a backing plate) for the rotor on the disk brake system. It would cover the back side of the rotor. You would be able to see it if you got under the car and looked at the rotor from the back side. I'm not positive about this, though, as this piece is pretty mangled.


4

This is your Heater Control Valve But I am going to explain what it does. First of all the "wire" you see is actually a vacuum line, it's a hollow (hopefully) air-tight tube that passes vacuum to the Heater Control Valve. The heater control valve is a vacuum actuated valve that in the open position allows fluid to pass through and in the closed position ...


4

Fuel filler neck or pipe, it connects to a rubber hose (8) that connects to the tank (1). Hose clamps (9) are used to secure the hose. If it come loose from the tank then you need to tighten the clamps. If the filler neck is coming a loose from the fender area then you need to tighten or replace the fasteners there. It doesn't look like it's sold separately ...


3

Since I cannot find any reference to them anywhere, my best suggestion to you is to go to the VW parts counter and ask them. They should have a computer which will show pictures of your vehicle with the parts exploded to reveal detail. You should be able to zoom in on the area you are looking at (the hood latch loop area) and find the bolt. Since buying ...


3

Lol, I had forgot about this post :-) I figured out finally what connector I needed: Z03FBR manufactured by Mitsubishi. I was able to find them in Japan at this seller: http://www.best-sys.com/products/detail.php?product_id=92 The website is only in Japanese so knowing little bit of kanji would help :-) So I bought the parts separately (the female, the ...


3

A confidential vehicle identification is just a VIN in a hidden place that is only known by the manufacturer and law enforcement. It is used to thwart car cloning. Examples of this would be a VIN stamped into the wheel arch liner, ashtray, on the floor under the spare tyre , etc - i.e. a non-obvious location.


3

Yes, Wikipedia. That isn't a joke. That list will actually get you a fair ways towards being able to tell a mechanic something useful. For example, sometimes it's not immediately obvious if you're looking at a catalytic converter or a resonator. However, given that vocabulary list, you'd at least be able to say "this part is rattling" and when the mechanic ...


3

I don't know that it has a standard name. I would call it a fender molding. Per the parts diagram and description here (http://bit.ly/1wl5xii), it may be called a "lower molding without wheel opening molding".


2

Rip it off if you want. It isn't directing air into a radiator. It isn't acting as an air dam (keeping airflow from under the car to keep it from lifting at speed). It is most likely a valance/splash guard/splash shield. Yank it off or hold it up with a zip tie. They were usually not held on with bolts but a plastic trim fastener that looked somewhat ...


2

From the picture I would say a "lower control arm". It is also referred to as an "A" arm. The usual reasons for needing to change it are a worn ball joint if it is integrated into the arm and worn bushings, again if they are integrated into the assembly.


2

Well, here are the two which I believe they are for ... looks about as close as you are going to get: top hubcap and bottom hubcap if that helps. Yes, they look as though they have been painted over. I would bet Henry would have had a fit had these come off the assembly line looking like that ;-)


1

This is line for Fuel evaporation regeneration system.


1

I had the same problem with my Civic. It was actually an intake mount, one little bracket causing all the shaking. I just decided to let the motor rest on it and didn't bolt it back together until later. I bent mine pushing and shoving up and down on the intake getting it out. Apparently motors and how they are mounted are very balanced pieces of machinery. ...


1

When you reconnected it, did you just slip it on or did you push it on until it "clicked"? That's a snap connection. If it's worn so much that it won't snap on any more, you could try running a little spring from that hook thing to the place where the cable sheath stops at that steel bracket (the one with both cables routed through it). The cable core ...


1

See if there's a "Pull a part" close to you. It's the walmart of junkyards. They have computers that you just type in your car make and model and gives you a list of similar cars on the lot and they can manually look up other parts that are swappable.



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