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10

You have severe case of corrosion. The part is called the lower control arm. Its function is to maintain the tire in the correct position. Do not attempt to drive the vehicle. In the best case scenario you will cause more damage, the tire could hit the fender, the axle could separate or you can bend something else. In the worst case you kill someone when ...


6

It is a guide for the window as it closes. It is only needed for closing the window when traveling at higher speeds as the airflow sucks the window outward. Why you see it on cheaper cars probably has to do with the thickness of the glass and the build of the window frame.


5

This is a 1967 Camaro which Chip Foose rebuilt on an episode of Overhaulin'. The sign in the background is the clue. EDIT: I guess I could tell you how to tell this is a '67 with or without knowing Chip Foose did this build :-) If you know anything about Camaros, you can tell this is a 1st gen by its angular cuts. The 2nd gens are not angular and are a lot ...


5

This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:


4

This is your Heater Control Valve But I am going to explain what it does. First of all the "wire" you see is actually a vacuum line, it's a hollow (hopefully) air-tight tube that passes vacuum to the Heater Control Valve. The heater control valve is a vacuum actuated valve that in the open position allows fluid to pass through and in the closed position ...


4

Fuel filler neck or pipe, it connects to a rubber hose (8) that connects to the tank (1). Hose clamps (9) are used to secure the hose. If it come loose from the tank then you need to tighten the clamps. If the filler neck is coming a loose from the fender area then you need to tighten or replace the fasteners there. It doesn't look like it's sold separately ...


4

This appears to be a dust shield (or sometimes called a backing plate) for the rotor on the disk brake system. It would cover the back side of the rotor. You would be able to see it if you got under the car and looked at the rotor from the back side. I'm not positive about this, though, as this piece is pretty mangled.


3

There are several products which would probably be, not only easier, but work better than painting. These products include such things as Black Wow, 303 products, or even Meguiars Ultimate Black. I personally would take the course of least resistance, namely: 1) try one of these products, 2) painting the pieces, and then 3) replacement if all else fails. Why ...


3

Since I cannot find any reference to them anywhere, my best suggestion to you is to go to the VW parts counter and ask them. They should have a computer which will show pictures of your vehicle with the parts exploded to reveal detail. You should be able to zoom in on the area you are looking at (the hood latch loop area) and find the bolt. Since buying ...


3

Yes, this is a 1967 model as my grand father had the same model that I had seen in the photo album of our family members.


3

Yes, Wikipedia. That isn't a joke. That list will actually get you a fair ways towards being able to tell a mechanic something useful. For example, sometimes it's not immediately obvious if you're looking at a catalytic converter or a resonator. However, given that vocabulary list, you'd at least be able to say "this part is rattling" and when the mechanic ...


3

I don't know that it has a standard name. I would call it a fender molding. Per the parts diagram and description here (http://bit.ly/1wl5xii), it may be called a "lower molding without wheel opening molding".


2

From the picture I would say a "lower control arm". It is also referred to as an "A" arm. The usual reasons for needing to change it are a worn ball joint if it is integrated into the arm and worn bushings, again if they are integrated into the assembly.


2

Well, here are the two which I believe they are for ... looks about as close as you are going to get: top hubcap and bottom hubcap if that helps. Yes, they look as though they have been painted over. I would bet Henry would have had a fit had these come off the assembly line looking like that ;-)


2

This is a roots style supercharger. Unlike the turbocharger you mention, the supercharger (or "blower") is driven directly by the crankshaft of the engine, via a large belt. Turbos use the exhaust gases to perform the same task. The task at hand is to force more air into the engine than the engine could normally suck in on its own. By doing this, it makes ...


1

When you reconnected it, did you just slip it on or did you push it on until it "clicked"? That's a snap connection. If it's worn so much that it won't snap on any more, you could try running a little spring from that hook thing to the place where the cable sheath stops at that steel bracket (the one with both cables routed through it). The cable core ...


1

You can buy a can of matte or satin finish paint and simply spray them. The best option is to remove them completely, spray, and then put them back. You don't want to get paint on your windows or panels. Otherwise, you'll want to use masking tape and newspaper and thoroughly cover every surface around the part you want to spray. Those things, and any other ...


1

Going purely on the fact that it's a Toyota and that part looks very similar to one in the glove box of my Prius, yes, it's the damper. And I can confirm that the damper includes a spring, a couple of small wheels, and string. The only downside to not replacing it is that opening the glove box becomes a fairly rough experience. I finally bought one when I ...


1

That is normally called something close to the "Audi A4 shifter trim." If you google for relevant images, you see a whole variety of pieces that look like your outline. Here is an example (from this vendor's site):


1

See if there's a "Pull a part" close to you. It's the walmart of junkyards. They have computers that you just type in your car make and model and gives you a list of similar cars on the lot and they can manually look up other parts that are swappable.


1

specify your engine please, do you have petrol or diesel engine, best would be to know exact month and year of made, C4 model parts are updated on 10/06, that´s maybe your issue, because you searched for parts from 10/06+ but your car spec is from before this date, write us how many kw/Hp your engine is. Then we could help you better, more specs you provide ...



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