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11

I would refer to it as a CV (constant velocity) joint spider.


11

That looks like the front edge of a splash shield (for certain values of "front"). You're right that it is protecting things coming up from below: splashes, sand and general road gunk. It's also likely part of the aerodynamics of the vehicle (admittedly a very small part). The link above is to an example vendor (who's selling the linked part for ...


10

Looks like a Stabilizer Bar Link for your steering stabilizer.


8

That looks to me like a power steering pump and reservoir. Given your account of what happened, I don't think it'd be too far off to say that the pump is toast. At the very least, it ran severely low on fluid. That would definitely cause the stiff steering and grinding noises. I think you're in the market for a new power steering pump now, unfortunately.


7

Red one is likely to be for a pull hitch. If you get stuck you can insert a screw with the hoop on the end and it will allow someone to pull you out with a chain or winch, putting load in the appropriate place (not the bumper). The screw device is probably in your trunk somewhere. From the owners manual


7

Distributor, it's what provides the electrical energy to the spark plugs at the correct time.


6

It is a ground, and as Digital Lightcraft "Ground Bolt" sounds reasonable. The picture below show another view from the same car. You can see from the picture that it is indeed a terminal that's bolted to the chassis.


6

That's the B-Pillar, the one at the front that the windshield is attached too is the A-Pillar, the one at the back after the rear door is the C-Pillar, if there was one behind that like in a station wagon or SUV it would be the D-Pillar and so on. More info here


6

Looks like a check valve for the evaporative emissions system. Hard plastic tubing and the solenoid valve on the left side are strong clues for me.


6

It is a guide for the window as it closes. It is only needed for closing the window when traveling at higher speeds as the airflow sucks the window outward. Why you see it on cheaper cars probably has to do with the thickness of the glass and the build of the window frame.


5

Yes, that is the sway bar. There are usually just a couple of bushings (one per side) that attach it to the frame and then however they connect it to the suspension. Shouldn't be hard to replace at all, though monkeying it around to get it in and out may be interesting.


5

I drive 2 1984 Topaz's and one 1985 Topaz daily. The part in your photo is actually the electric vacuum pump. It supplies the vacuum for the brake booster, cruise control, and the injection pump timing. Unplugging it was the cause of the smoke. The IP has a built in cold start mechanism that uses the vacuum to adjust the injection pump timing depending on ...


5

It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed. Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2) Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one. Push the axle in and the c clip will fall ...


5

This is a 1967 Camaro which Chip Foose rebuilt on an episode of Overhaulin'. The sign in the background is the clue. EDIT: I guess I could tell you how to tell this is a '67 with or without knowing Chip Foose did this build :-) If you know anything about Camaros, you can tell this is a 1st gen by its angular cuts. The 2nd gens are not angular and are a lot ...


4

You will be able to get the pigtail from the dealer. It's the connector and about 12 inches of wire. They are used to repair harnesses.


4

I would think engraving or stamping would be fine, particularly as many manufactured wheels come with engraving or stamping on them. I mean, they engrave safety glass, talk about things that are delicate to damage. Here's a thread about a police precinct offering it. Though all the other references I see to the etching are for glass only, and apparently ...


4

Wakeeta is right: this is your stabilizer bar link (AKA sway bar link). This is apparently a common failure point. Here's a very similar picture. A quick shopping search indicates that a replacement part is on the order of $30 (sweat equity not included).


4

Those are definitely devices for holding hair in place. As for what purpose (if any) they were serving in your motorcycle, one can only guess!


4

This appears to be a dust shield (or sometimes called a backing plate) for the rotor on the disk brake system. It would cover the back side of the rotor. You would be able to see it if you got under the car and looked at the rotor from the back side. I'm not positive about this, though, as this piece is pretty mangled.


3

I am not positive from the picture but if that is screwed into the steering rack it's the Front sub-steering angle sensor. If it's in a hose which seems more likely to me it's the power steering pressure switch. Pictured below Link to Autozone site for part Power steering pressure switch reports power steering high pressures to the on-board computer ...


3

It's called a Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL) or sometimes a Center High Mount Brake Lamp (CHMBL). If you can't find a Web site with part numbers, you could go to the parts counter at a Mazda dealer and ask them to look up the part number(s). They can tell you whether it's all one piece or not. I don't know how to take the light apart in your car. Your ...


3

The part on the picture is called "Companion flange" as per Saab's own electronic part catalogue (EPC) - number 7 on the drawing below. I'm not sure which one in particular you need, so here's the drawing itself: Full size Check whether your engine type is among the listed above. Part numbers are listed on the right, and you can use those when ordering ...


3

Hard to say without knowing the car, but based on previous experience, its likely to be "Ground Bolt" IE ground / earth (-) for the electrical system to the chassis/shell/monocoque


3

My first thought is that they are a spacer or shim to prevent the battery from sliding back and forth in the battery box.


3

There are several products which would probably be, not only easier, but work better than painting. These products include such things as Black Wow, 303 products, or even Meguiars Ultimate Black. I personally would take the course of least resistance, namely: 1) try one of these products, 2) painting the pieces, and then 3) replacement if all else fails. Why ...


3

This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:


2

The PMGR stands for permanent magnet gear reduction. I can't find anything on SD255. Doing some searching at Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts showed images that all looked the same, a typical Chevy starter. I would contact a local parts store see if they have one in stock. Pull your starter out bring it with you to match it up and have it tested. Most stores ...


2

You visit http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action and type in your model number. You select the schematic that contains your broken part and order a new one. While viewing the schematic, you could be able to decide if you're capable of doing the repair. I'm assuming since you're considering the fix, that you have access to a variety of ...


2

There is usually a generic specification depending on diameter and material. Genuine service manuals will have half page or so on common bolt and screw sizes but you may have to hunt for it as it could be in specifications, servicing or somewhere else Grade 4 bolts will snap way below the minimum torque for grade 8 of same diameter Metric use slightly ...



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