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11

That looks like the front edge of a splash shield (for certain values of "front"). You're right that it is protecting things coming up from below: splashes, sand and general road gunk. It's also likely part of the aerodynamics of the vehicle (admittedly a very small part). The link above is to an example vendor (who's selling the linked part for ...


8

That looks to me like a power steering pump and reservoir. Given your account of what happened, I don't think it'd be too far off to say that the pump is toast. At the very least, it ran severely low on fluid. That would definitely cause the stiff steering and grinding noises. I think you're in the market for a new power steering pump now, unfortunately.


7

Red one is likely to be for a pull hitch. If you get stuck you can insert a screw with the hoop on the end and it will allow someone to pull you out with a chain or winch, putting load in the appropriate place (not the bumper). The screw device is probably in your trunk somewhere. From the owners manual


6

That's the B-Pillar, the one at the front that the windshield is attached too is the A-Pillar, the one at the back after the rear door is the C-Pillar, if there was one behind that like in a station wagon or SUV it would be the D-Pillar and so on. More info here


6

It is a ground, and as Digital Lightcraft "Ground Bolt" sounds reasonable. The picture below show another view from the same car. You can see from the picture that it is indeed a terminal that's bolted to the chassis.


5

It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed. Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2) Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one. Push the axle in and the c clip will fall ...


5

I drive 2 1984 Topaz's and one 1985 Topaz daily. The part in your photo is actually the electric vacuum pump. It supplies the vacuum for the brake booster, cruise control, and the injection pump timing. Unplugging it was the cause of the smoke. The IP has a built in cold start mechanism that uses the vacuum to adjust the injection pump timing depending on ...


4

I would think engraving or stamping would be fine, particularly as many manufactured wheels come with engraving or stamping on them. I mean, they engrave safety glass, talk about things that are delicate to damage. Here's a thread about a police precinct offering it. Though all the other references I see to the etching are for glass only, and apparently ...


4

Wakeeta is right: this is your stabilizer bar link (AKA sway bar link). This is apparently a common failure point. Here's a very similar picture. A quick shopping search indicates that a replacement part is on the order of $30 (sweat equity not included).


3

It's called a Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL) or sometimes a Center High Mount Brake Lamp (CHMBL). If you can't find a Web site with part numbers, you could go to the parts counter at a Mazda dealer and ask them to look up the part number(s). They can tell you whether it's all one piece or not. I don't know how to take the light apart in your car. Your ...


3

I am not positive from the picture but if that is screwed into the steering rack it's the Front sub-steering angle sensor. If it's in a hose which seems more likely to me it's the power steering pressure switch. Pictured below Link to Autozone site for part Power steering pressure switch reports power steering high pressures to the on-board computer ...


3

The part on the picture is called "Companion flange" as per Saab's own electronic part catalogue (EPC) - number 7 on the drawing below. I'm not sure which one in particular you need, so here's the drawing itself: Full size Check whether your engine type is among the listed above. Part numbers are listed on the right, and you can use those when ordering ...


2

You visit http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action and type in your model number. You select the schematic that contains your broken part and order a new one. While viewing the schematic, you could be able to decide if you're capable of doing the repair. I'm assuming since you're considering the fix, that you have access to a variety of ...


2

There is usually a generic specification depending on diameter and material. Genuine service manuals will have half page or so on common bolt and screw sizes but you may have to hunt for it as it could be in specifications, servicing or somewhere else Grade 4 bolts will snap way below the minimum torque for grade 8 of same diameter Metric use slightly ...


2

Each manufacturer will probably have it's own system for them, unfortunately. For my 1970's Triumph, I had to get hold of a parts book for the car, then a separate Fasteners list to cross-reference from the OEM part number to the actual bolt size. Even if you can guess the diameter & pitch from the torque rating, you probably won't be able to guess the ...


2

@MD6380's answer is for the blade, not for the insert (rubber in the Toyota parts catalog), but they seem to state that there are no inserts available for theses. Based on the ToyoDIY.com website, it's should be these RH: 85214‑53040 (03/2005 - 04/2006) or 85214‑53041 (06/2006 - ) LH: 85214‑48010 REAR: 85214‑31010


2

It's a little hard to tell from your picture but that appears to be a broken actuator or connector. I did find you an exploded view of the trunk if that's not the correct part, though. I searched at Parts.com for a 2003 Jetta and followed the trail to "Main Categories | Trunk lid | Lid and components | Actuator, Connector". If you click on the Image # 13 ...


2

The PMGR stands for permanent magnet gear reduction. I can't find anything on SD255. Doing some searching at Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts showed images that all looked the same, a typical Chevy starter. I would contact a local parts store see if they have one in stock. Pull your starter out bring it with you to match it up and have it tested. Most stores ...


1

That is normally called something close to the "Audi A4 shifter trim." If you google for relevant images, you see a whole variety of pieces that look like your outline. Here is an example (from this vendor's site):


1

specify your engine please, do you have petrol or diesel engine, best would be to know exact month and year of made, C4 model parts are updated on 10/06, that´s maybe your issue, because you searched for parts from 10/06+ but your car spec is from before this date, write us how many kw/Hp your engine is. Then we could help you better, more specs you provide ...


1

If your blade inserts are the same style as my MR2 uses, you may just be trying too hard. My dealer doesn't carry the blade inserts for my car, but they have longer versions and I just cut off the non-locking side to fit... I think the longer ones cost about 10 cents more, but I don't feel too bad about the lost 20 cents since I waste more than that in the ...


1

The best solution I've found to this apparently common break, is not to replace the factory part at all, but instead to apply the 3rd party Jetta Trunk Fix Kit 3rd-party fix (US$40). This kit comes with a piece that fits over the existing (broken) piece, along with a brace that is easily installed using just a screwdriver, making it not only cheaper than ...


1

It's commonly called a third brake light, although the William Cline listed the more technical terms for them. You can find several used ones at car-part.com prices range from $20 - $50 You will need to replace the assembly you cannot replace just one of the bulbs.



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