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4

No, that is not true. A proper matte paint job will show hard water spots, and will still need washed and waxed regularly to maintain quality. It still has a clear coat. Hard water will still leave mineral deposits on the clear coat, and will reflect the light, the same as they would in clear coat on a glossy paint car. You may notice them less easily ...


3

Is that dust or pollen I see around the chipped spot, or are those spots part of the finish? From here... it looks like you have a clearcoat failure, the color coat being spared (for the moment). What THAT means is that your clearcoat is probably chemically incompatible with the paint underneath it - I'd bet it was shot on not very long before the sale - ...


3

I did plastidip on a lot of things and my car, so I have a little bit of experience with it. Plastidip is not an alternativ for the real paint job at all. You need a good painted car to make plastidip looks good (same color, no scratches, bright color). The problem is the very low drown of plastidip. With the white car you can do whatever you want. On the ...


3

I am a Pilot Car driver and have taped my sign on my pick up several times. When I remove it and the glue is left I use WD-40 and it removes the glue. It alse removes tar from your vehicle too.


3

If you want the job done right, then yes: grinding, filling, sanding, priming, and spraying are your best option. There are alternatives out there. Duplicolor makes color matched kits which allows you to paint in the smaller chips (it has an abrasive, color paint brush, then a clear coat to go over the top). I haven't used them, but the product looks like a ...


3

It's not going to take more work than it would have if the paint was faded or spotty or had teardrops (running paint because it was applied too thick). It's just lots of sanding and filling in imperfections.


2

I used to manage a machine wash and I can tell you that the good ones do not hurt your paint at all. If they did, they probably wouldn't be as popular and prominent as they are, eh? A reputable machine/tunnel wash is inspected every half hour to an hour for debris, the brushes are washed down several times a day, and the tunnel/bay is thoroughly cleaned ...


2

Bodywork can be really fun or it can make you cry. There are some general rules to adhere to. Rule 1 - Don't use anything over 400 grit on the plastic bodywork like the front bumper. It will scar it up. Rule 2 - Put the power tools away when you are dealing with the flexible plastic, unless it's a sander (not a grinder) with 400 grit or finer SP. Rule 3 ...


2

The orbital sander would work fine. Use paint stripper only on metal body parts because it would dissolve plastic parts. Strip any area of paint that you intend to work on. Body filler won't hold well on a smooth paint surface. Start with about 180 grit to strip the paint. Sand a reasonable area around the ding as well, 2 or 3 inches is fine. Make sure you ...


2

The main problem with using a cleaner like this is, while it removes all of the dirt and debris from the paint, it also removes any protection the paint might have on it, leaving it exposed to the elements and to UV rays which can cause faiding, oxidization, cracking, and pealing. Remember, glass is very resilliant stuff. It can withstand harsh chemicals (if ...


2

You need to use a flexible body filler specifically intended for polyurethane bumpers. It looks like the filler you used has detached from the substrate due to flexing (which could be solely due to temperature and not impact). The filler you used was for small dent repair on non-flexible metal panels. Also, I don't know how big of an area you filled but the ...


2

Yeah you can add a flex agent if you think that's the case or you can make sure it's sanded rough and then do like 3 or 4 layers of paint. You could also sand it down further, and cover it with fiberglass or epoxy resin, then sand that and paint it.


1

The first thing that I usually try in situations like this is some cleaner wax (e.g., some Zymol - it's cheap, cheerful and smells nice): I'm pretty pleased with the procedure that I outlined in the attached "door ding" answer. The most important point, though, is that patience is key. You're almost certainly super annoyed at this situation (I'm annoyed ...


1

By "maintain" I'm going to assume you are asking if it will provide enough air flow to do the work you need to do. If this is right, we'd need to know if your spray gun is a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) type spray gun. If so, the compressor should do you just fine. I would bet, though, if you are going to be doing a lot of painting with this, even with ...


1

They could for a number of reason. If the car is very dirty, for example, some heavier dirt is likely to be on the paint; if its not removed properly before (with a water stream for example), when the dirt gets "brushed" the brushes will move the dirt around possibly creating small scratches all around. On an old car (or any car with a weak paintjob) the ...


1

A few drops of WD40, sponge off, all gone. Hose and wipe the WD40 off with clean sponge. Does not harm the paint. Very efficient with Rust-O-... automotive duct tape. Do you believe that? Next time, I won't use stupid duct tape but paint tape, which leaves no marks, costs the same and resists rain, cold and heat.



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