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Yes, they do work for what they're intended (removing contamination on the paint, overspray etc) and no, as far as I know they're not the same as pottery clay but have some other ingredients in them. Rubbing pottery clay on your car will more or less give you the same result as rubbing sand on it... Keep in mind that using a clay bar only make sense as part ...

With any paint, there will be a degree of fading and yellowing from the UV radiation present in sunlight. If you look at old cars which have been left in the sun, they look uneven in colour and often quite faded. This is normally repaired by cutting away the "dead" and faded layer of paint. With modern paints this effect is reduced compared to older ...

Try to remove as much rust as possible with either a die grinder or other rotary device with a wire wheel. Then just use some rust paint to spray over them. You don't even have to take them off the car if you don't want to. Honestly you could even skip the wire wheel if you are feeling really lazy but you may have to respray them every 6 months depending on ...

The manufacture provides a warranty on the paint and corrosion, and what they're selling you usually doesn't extend that. All of the dealers I have worked at sold some kind of paint protection and rust protection. The paint protection was a wax job, a good one no less, but a wax job that you could get at a high quality detail shop for about $150, but they ...

The type of filter you need will depend on the type of paint you will be using. Consult the paint manufacturers web site. Look at the MSDS (material safety data sheet). A section of the form contains what is required for PPE (personal protective equipment). You then need to consult the 3M website to match a filter for the paint and the mask that you will be ...

Yes, you can sand back to the primer everywhere, but I wouldn't make that the goal. The goal is to provide a smooth (but not too smooth!), level surface that the new paint can adhere to (and of course that adheres to the metal). In some places, that might require sanding back to the existing primer, or even bare metal if you need to do body work. Be ...

If you have the undercoat layer intact you should be fine, as it should prevent rust - but be very careful when you take it this far back. My recommendation would be to strip it back and then re-coat the primer/undercoat. That way you are protecting against areas where the moisture can get to bare metal. If you are in the UK you may have problems doing this ...

I have tried it many years ago on an Imron paint job. The finish felt smoother than before and the sliding rag test was better. I didn't see any visual difference. In after thought I wondered about the grit that the clay is picking up. Since you reuse the clay wouldn't the clay hold the grit and eventually act as an abrasive? It appeared to do no harm but I ...

I am in USA and not aware of some products mentioned. The basic idea is to use a very mild abrasive and a wax, both in the same product. I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. Just rub hard with a rag. The repaired area will match surrounding paint. Any minor scratches in your paint will remain, but all foreign paint will be cleanly removed without the dulling ...

If you have a well ventilated area and you have a little time on your hands (a day total with waiting for paint to dry). Then you should just do it right so you're not upset with how they wheels look in a week. Pick yourself up some of my favorite product for stripping painted / rusted parts back down to bare metal. Aircraft Paint Removal (APR) This ...

If your lazy, get black rustolium and just spray over everything. Then follow up with a black gloss wheel paint. It will look perfectly fine. EDIT: Try Plastidip! Just get a can and remove the wheel, spray a few good coats, let it dry. There are many, many tutorials on YouTube.

If the wider scratches are just surface scratches, you may be able to make them disappear by polishing/buffing the area using a suitable polishing or rubbing compound. Some of these products are specifically labeled as "scratch removers." Make sure the product you choose is labeled as clear coat safe. Essentially you want to bring the level of the ...

Want paint protection? Wash and wax your car. I wouldn't buy anything the dealer is selling as "paint protection." All these treatments are typically very similar to products you can buy at a local auto parts store. The paint protection is almost certainly some kind of wax-like product, and the "nano-technology protection" for the seats is probably some ...

Sounds like a marketing gimmick. If you have a garage, and you plan on having a garage for some time to come, just keep it in said garage and your car will age well enough. Not to mention you live in Queensland, it's sunny there, right? Do they salt the roads? If they salted the roads I might consider paint protection, but otherwise not. Just take care of ...