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4

No, that is not true. A proper matte paint job will show hard water spots, and will still need washed and waxed regularly to maintain quality. It still has a clear coat. Hard water will still leave mineral deposits on the clear coat, and will reflect the light, the same as they would in clear coat on a glossy paint car. You may notice them less easily ...


3

If you want the job done right, then yes: grinding, filling, sanding, priming, and spraying are your best option. There are alternatives out there. Duplicolor makes color matched kits which allows you to paint in the smaller chips (it has an abrasive, color paint brush, then a clear coat to go over the top). I haven't used them, but the product looks like a ...


3

It's not going to take more work than it would have if the paint was faded or spotty or had teardrops (running paint because it was applied too thick). It's just lots of sanding and filling in imperfections.


3

Is that dust or pollen I see around the chipped spot, or are those spots part of the finish? From here... it looks like you have a clearcoat failure, the color coat being spared (for the moment). What THAT means is that your clearcoat is probably chemically incompatible with the paint underneath it - I'd bet it was shot on not very long before the sale - ...


3

I did plastidip on a lot of things and my car, so I have a little bit of experience with it. Plastidip is not an alternativ for the real paint job at all. You need a good painted car to make plastidip looks good (same color, no scratches, bright color). The problem is the very low drown of plastidip. With the white car you can do whatever you want. On the ...


2

If this bumper isn't made of metal, then it won't rust. You can try some paint repair magic kit. If there's a scratch, than you won't be able to get a brand new looking, smooth surface by just painting over. You should repair the scratch properly: sand it, prime it, repaint all or blend in and apply lack, polish.


2

That is an ideal situation for some cleaner wax. It will have a mild polish to lift the extra paint and wax to reduce the impact of the mark on your eyes. I'm looking at that scuff and it really looks like you just barely kissed whatever left the white mark. If you wash the handle really well, you'll be surprised how well a little cleaner wax will help. ...


2

I used to manage a machine wash and I can tell you that the good ones do not hurt your paint at all. If they did, they probably wouldn't be as popular and prominent as they are, eh? A reputable machine/tunnel wash is inspected every half hour to an hour for debris, the brushes are washed down several times a day, and the tunnel/bay is thoroughly cleaned ...


2

The main problem with using a cleaner like this is, while it removes all of the dirt and debris from the paint, it also removes any protection the paint might have on it, leaving it exposed to the elements and to UV rays which can cause faiding, oxidization, cracking, and pealing. Remember, glass is very resilliant stuff. It can withstand harsh chemicals (if ...


1

You need to use a flexible body filler specifically intended for polyurethane bumpers. It looks like the filler you used has detached from the substrate due to flexing (which could be solely due to temperature and not impact). The filler you used was for small dent repair on non-flexible metal panels. Also, I don't know how big of an area you filled but the ...


1

Yeah you can add a flex agent if you think that's the case or you can make sure it's sanded rough and then do like 3 or 4 layers of paint. You could also sand it down further, and cover it with fiberglass or epoxy resin, then sand that and paint it.


1

The first thing that I usually try in situations like this is some cleaner wax (e.g., some Zymol - it's cheap, cheerful and smells nice): I'm pretty pleased with the procedure that I outlined in the attached "door ding" answer. The most important point, though, is that patience is key. You're almost certainly super annoyed at this situation (I'm annoyed ...


1

By "maintain" I'm going to assume you are asking if it will provide enough air flow to do the work you need to do. If this is right, we'd need to know if your spray gun is a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) type spray gun. If so, the compressor should do you just fine. I would bet, though, if you are going to be doing a lot of painting with this, even with ...


1

They could for a number of reason. If the car is very dirty, for example, some heavier dirt is likely to be on the paint; if its not removed properly before (with a water stream for example), when the dirt gets "brushed" the brushes will move the dirt around possibly creating small scratches all around. On an old car (or any car with a weak paintjob) the ...


1

Don't use a brush even if paint can is sitting in hot water; brush strokes are inevitable. Sand bonnet to smooth surface using ever finer grades of wet & dry sandpaper. Clean off with wax & grease remover. Prop up bonnet to make level. Spray with acrylic primer- dry-resand-reapply-sand-again use wax & grease remover.Topcoat with acrylic paint of ...


1

A few drops of WD40, sponge off, all gone. Hose and wipe the WD40 off with clean sponge. Does not harm the paint. Very efficient with Rust-O-... automotive duct tape. Do you believe that? Next time, I won't use stupid duct tape but paint tape, which leaves no marks, costs the same and resists rain, cold and heat.


1

Pressure wash to remove loose clear coat, brush on clear urethane varnish to seal the edges and replace the clear. I have done this on the cap on my pickup, and where edges are coming loose on our Taurus.



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