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6

You're off to a good start - research, research, research. 1.) I would add; being able to lift the car off the ground, and having movable platforms - to keep your work at a comfortable level, as much as possible. The more light you can get on the job, the better - however, it would be safer to have the fixtures outside the plastic/paint area. Just like all ...


4

No, that is not true. A proper matte paint job will show hard water spots, and will still need washed and waxed regularly to maintain quality. It still has a clear coat. Hard water will still leave mineral deposits on the clear coat, and will reflect the light, the same as they would in clear coat on a glossy paint car. You may notice them less easily ...


4

tl;dr: It depends on the ding. Try some cleaner wax, though: it won't make the problem worse. Did you scratch down to the primer or just leave some paint behind? If all you did was trade some paint between cars, you're going to need to polish it off. That said, if you're not comfortable with power polishing tools or abrasive polishes, I would counsel a ...


3

If you want the job done right, then yes: grinding, filling, sanding, priming, and spraying are your best option. There are alternatives out there. Duplicolor makes color matched kits which allows you to paint in the smaller chips (it has an abrasive, color paint brush, then a clear coat to go over the top). I haven't used them, but the product looks like a ...


3

It's not going to take more work than it would have if the paint was faded or spotty or had teardrops (running paint because it was applied too thick). It's just lots of sanding and filling in imperfections.


3

I would suggest you try something like Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover. Not knowing exactly what the substance is on your finish, I'd start light and go stronger from there. The Bug & Tar stuff will do it's thing without damaging your paint finish. As you get more involved in what you are trying to do to remove the substance, the greater risk you'll ...


3

Is that dust or pollen I see around the chipped spot, or are those spots part of the finish? From here... it looks like you have a clearcoat failure, the color coat being spared (for the moment). What THAT means is that your clearcoat is probably chemically incompatible with the paint underneath it - I'd bet it was shot on not very long before the sale - ...


3

I did plastidip on a lot of things and my car, so I have a little bit of experience with it. Plastidip is not an alternativ for the real paint job at all. You need a good painted car to make plastidip looks good (same color, no scratches, bright color). The problem is the very low drown of plastidip. With the white car you can do whatever you want. On the ...


2

If this is only due to aesthetics, you can use a Scotch-brite pad to remove the excess without chemicals. I take it the engine has not been running yet? If so, the paint is probably not fully cured, so shouldn't be that hard to get off. I would think using chemicals is a bit of overkill for removal. Scotch-brite will take a little bit of elbow-grease, but ...


2

If this bumper isn't made of metal, then it won't rust. You can try some paint repair magic kit. If there's a scratch, than you won't be able to get a brand new looking, smooth surface by just painting over. You should repair the scratch properly: sand it, prime it, repaint all or blend in and apply lack, polish.


2

That is an ideal situation for some cleaner wax. It will have a mild polish to lift the extra paint and wax to reduce the impact of the mark on your eyes. I'm looking at that scuff and it really looks like you just barely kissed whatever left the white mark. If you wash the handle really well, you'll be surprised how well a little cleaner wax will help. ...


2

I used to manage a machine wash and I can tell you that the good ones do not hurt your paint at all. If they did, they probably wouldn't be as popular and prominent as they are, eh? A reputable machine/tunnel wash is inspected every half hour to an hour for debris, the brushes are washed down several times a day, and the tunnel/bay is thoroughly cleaned ...


1

They could for a number of reason. If the car is very dirty, for example, some heavier dirt is likely to be on the paint; if its not removed properly before (with a water stream for example), when the dirt gets "brushed" the brushes will move the dirt around possibly creating small scratches all around. On an old car (or any car with a weak paintjob) the ...


1

Don't use a brush even if paint can is sitting in hot water; brush strokes are inevitable. Sand bonnet to smooth surface using ever finer grades of wet & dry sandpaper. Clean off with wax & grease remover. Prop up bonnet to make level. Spray with acrylic primer- dry-resand-reapply-sand-again use wax & grease remover.Topcoat with acrylic paint of ...


1

Stopping at a body line or some other feature is a pretty standard trick that body shops use to make repairs cheaper. It's less work for them because they don't have to worry about blending in the paint finish and texture as much. Since it's on the inside of the roofrack, it isn't really noticeable on that seam. Someplace like the middle of the hood would be ...


1

A few drops of WD40, sponge off, all gone. Hose and wipe the WD40 off with clean sponge. Does not harm the paint. Very efficient with Rust-O-... automotive duct tape. Do you believe that? Next time, I won't use stupid duct tape but paint tape, which leaves no marks, costs the same and resists rain, cold and heat.


1

Pressure wash to remove loose clear coat, brush on clear urethane varnish to seal the edges and replace the clear. I have done this on the cap on my pickup, and where edges are coming loose on our Taurus.



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