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DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) - that fluid is NOT compatible with the oil that's in there now, and it may even wreck your seals. If John Deere wants you to use regular ol' motor oil (which is part and parcel of their specification), that's what you should use. Depending upon your climate, you may need 10W30 or you may be able to get by just ...


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You are mixing two different engine oil ratings - API and ACEA. Since your engine requires API SG or higher, and the oil you have is API SN, there should be no issue with using this oil in your gasoline / petrol engine as it is well above the rating for your engine. You are correct in stating that ACEA A-rated oils are for petrol / gas engines, however so ...


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SE was from way back (circa 1979), so any off the shelf oil should be well ahead of that at a minimum. The current standard is SN. Since I would assume you will not be changing this oil very often, I would highly suggest you purchase some thing like Royal Purple or some other high grade synthetic engine oil. I know it's a little expensive, but considering ...


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The oil bottle will state what API classifications it meets. You need SAE 10w30 that lists one of those classifications on the bottle. Any standard 10w30 motor oil should have it. Just check for it when you buy the oil.


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80W90 is a multiviscosity version of the single-viscosity 90 gear oil; it's the same concept as 10W30 motor oil being the multiviscosity version of single-viscosity 30-weight motor oil. The "W" is a "winter" rating, meaning that the oil in question is designed to be usable in winter months in cold climates. 80W90 oil is perfectly satisfactory for your ...


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It's also possible that your old oil had built up sludge in your oil galleries - more likely if that oil was based on castor oil - and the new oil dissolved a bunch of that sludge out, making the oil galleries effectively much larger.


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I can't believe that you're leaking fluid from a spark plug hole. Like Paulster2 above, I'd like to see what happens when that area of the motor is cleaned thoroughly so we can start looking at this thing fresh. On the opposite end of the spark plug is a cylinder full of fire and very high pressure. If anything leaks into that cylinder (say during idle time ...


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Have you done a compression and leakdown test on that cylinder? If it is oil, and it is coming through the spark plug socket, you've got a couple of problems. 1) Oil is probably getting into the combustion chamber. Remove the plug, check if it has oil on the electrode, or if it's clean. Check the hole for oil on the threads. Perform a compression and ...


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Though many people do not drive there cars hard enough to need synthetic oils being able to go 10k miles before a change they are cheaper in the long run though more expensive per oil change. And when living in an area where temperatures get below -20 it can really help with starting. Also if care about the environment they are better for it too.


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The 'mystery' surrounding engine oils in very many cases is promoted by the after-market, and is normally profit motivated. The main areas for particular consideration are hybrid vehicles, long life servicing, and diesels fitted with DPF's. The vehicles manufacturer test all of their vehicles extensively before marketing them. The recommended oil from your ...


2

Actually, the C-3 you are talking about is an ACEA rating. The two major rating agencies for oils are the American Petrolium Institute (API) and The European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA). As was said on this website, these two bodies are trying to bring order to chaos in the world of oil. You are correct that the SN is the most current oil you ...


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The best solutions is to drain the oil and replace the oil filter to prevent damage to your car. Then fill it with new and clean oil. As antifreeze is harmful for the engine and can cause lots of smoke and can overfill the oil capacity in engine.


3

To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an ...



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