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9

In a word: No. To add more to it: Absolutely Not. There is one huge thing which you have not taken into account. That being carbon which deposits from the air/fuel mixture burning process. Where does it go? Right into the oil (among other places). A small amount of blow by occurs which also forces this mixture down into the crank case. Now you have it in ...


5

This vehicle in your example photo is a really good example for when not to use an oil drain valve. Notice the heavy lugs on the all terrain tires? I am not sure if this vehicle is 4 wheel drive, but the tires indicate it the owner plans on driving on other than smooth paved highways. A drain valve on an off road vehicle, is an invitation for a long walk ...


5

tl;dr: This procedure checks the oil "reserve" remaining in the pan after all moving parts are lubricated. This procedure is purely vehicle dependent. For example, on my car, I'm supposed to check the oil when the engine is cold. In asking you to check when the engine is hot, the oil will not be pooled in the oil pan. Instead, it will have been fully ...


5

If you are suggesting there was oil inside the head where the valves/cam(s) are located, this would be perfectly normal. If you are saying the oil puddles are outside of the valve/cam area, this isn't normal, but should be taken care of by you putting a new valve cover gasket on the engine. I would say, clean up the entire work area, complete the replacement ...


4

From your description it is a bit unclear what the problem with the drain plug bolt is. I'm assuming that the hex head on the bolt has become rounded, and as a result your wrenches and sockets are slipping on the bolt head, preventing you from removing the drain plug. If this is the case, you can try welding another nut or bolt onto the rounded drain plug, ...


4

Personally I'm not seeing an issue with replacing the washer. This is a $.05 part. For my '08 Hyundai Azera, it comes with the filter I get from my Hyundai dealer. Does it really need replaced? Probably not, but the one time when it does need changed and you don't do it may be the difference between a $.05 part and a $2500 overhaul/engine replacement. To me ...


4

This is normal behavior - When the engine is not running, there is no oil pressure, so when the ignition is turned on, that light will be on. As Larry says, this functions as a bulb test so that you know that it is working. When you start the engine, the oil is pumped round, the pressure goes up and the light goes out.


4

To add a little bit to Paulster2's answer the upper and lower Explosive Limits of Gasoline is 7.6% and 1.4% respectively. This means that a concentration outside of those limits will either be to rich or lean to burn. And since Gasoline's Flash point is -45 °F (-43 °C) it's pretty much always putting off vapors, which would push any air out of the tank. It's ...


4

If you want to know what to use for your car, follow what your vehicle manufacturer has stated. If you would like to better understand what all the gobble-de-gook means, continue reading --- Oil Originally there was crude oil. Black gold. Texas Tea. As crude oil, it is fairly much useless. It's the distillates which make up the usable parts. Crude oil is ...


3

The only scenarios that comes to mind is lots of short trips where the oilpan and oil never got really hot. Then 35 days later a long trip gets it really warm and the plug gets loose and falls out. The second is a defective crankcase ventilator along with a damaged plug "O" ring that eventually blows out resulting in a loose drain plug. Both scenarios would ...


3

Does the white smoke smell sweet like antifreeze? The loss of power plus the white smoke points directly at a bad head gasket. They don't last forever and it sounds like yours just got used up (coincidentally right around the time that you changed the oil). Head gaskets on those VTECs can be replaced in your garage. However, I wouldn't recommend the job ...


3

General Motors has a similar system in my 2002 Silverado. The way I understand that it works is the computer looks at a variety of inputs to determine oil life. It looks at engine load, cold start cycles, engine rpms, conductivity of the oil and some others. I know in my case it works as advertised. In the summer the engine reaches operating temperature ...


3

Your picture shows the normal staining and discolourment of the dipstick during normal operation. The staining is caused by the crankcase fumes and gases present in all vehicles.


3

If you look at your engines dip stick you will see minimum and maximum marks on it. The engine oil level must be maintained between these marks, any cause that means that this is not the case must be rectified. Carry a can of oil in the boot/trunk for topping up. The engine oil lubricates the moving parts, cools internal parts of the engine, and operates ...


3

Obviously you have an oil leak. Where it's at you won't know until you (or your trusted mechanic) tears into it to figure it out. You could test your oil cooler theory by bypassing the cooler (I'm assuming your cooler is inside of the radiator?). Your problem, like you said, could be the cooler, a head gasket leak, or a crack somewhere ... I would put them ...


3

You need to drain the oil (let it drain as completely as possible) and put new oil inane run the engine. If you see it come back as a "chocolate milk" looking mixture, you need to change the oil again. This may take several tries (two or three) to get it all out. You need to change the filter with each attempt as well. The reason this is important is because ...


3

COULD be worn rings, COULD be bad valve stem seals, COULD be blown head gasket. They all require removing the head, which is easier to do if the engine's sitting on the shop floor. Rings require that the engine be pulled all the way apart. Did your mechanic run a compression test? That'll tell more about this problem than anything else will. Worn ...


3

To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an ...


3

I use it, blended with diesel and kerosene, for undercoating. I'm rural, though - you probably couldn't do that in a city. You can also superfilter it (toilet-paper filter), then heat it above 100*C (to boil off any contained water), and reuse it as motor oil in less-than-critical engines (lawn mowers, etc) or as two-stroke oil for chainsaws. After ...


2

You were told that you were good for one year but this did not mean that you did not have to check the oil level for one year, it was meant as you dont have to change the oil again for one year. If you have a gallon of oil over the limit, do not start the engine, drain the oil yourself or have the vehicle towed. This oil could cause damages that would cost ...


2

In response to your questions Why did my car always had 16mpg when I just bought it, when it's supposed to have been 21mpg city and 29mpg highway? I do use AC, but I don't idle. I drove highway, from NC to ON, and never got anywhere close to 29mpg. There is always a "settling in" period for a new car - it should tell you in the owners manual for ...


2

Stainless steel changes colors from silver to gold to purple as it is exposed to heat. The picture isn't clear enough for me to confirm that is what has happened here, but it would explain the uneven coloring pattern. It will not change the performance of the dipstick or your engine. Edit: I see that the above answer was accepted, so I thought I'd add a ...


2

80W90 is a multiviscosity version of the single-viscosity 90 gear oil; it's the same concept as 10W30 motor oil being the multiviscosity version of single-viscosity 30-weight motor oil. The "W" is a "winter" rating, meaning that the oil in question is designed to be usable in winter months in cold climates. 80W90 oil is perfectly satisfactory for your ...


2

It sounds like you are getting drain back. When your engine sits without running for a period of time, most all of the oil in the oil passages drains back into the crank case. When you restart your engine, the oil has to be brought from the pan back up into the oil passages, then you see your oil pressure raise. Since I don't know which year your BMW is, I ...


2

The engine oil life indicator should be more than sufficient. Just make sure to check your dipstick every now and then to make sure you still have a good amount of oil. The indicator is alright, and I have trusted the one on my Avalanche so far with no problems.


2

Basically this is a bulb test. The CEL and Oil pressure light stay on until the engine is cranked. Air bag lights, ABS lights as well as others flash a certain number of times or stay on for a few seconds then turn off. This is normal operation for those lights.


2

If you want to use an o-ring, what you are looking for is an O-ring splicing kit. The kit allows you to form whatever size "O" you need. This kit from Permatex has different sizes (same as most of the kits out there) of cord so you can fill the gap as needed. You'd just need to provide a way to keep the o-ring in place. I would suggest running some kind of ...


2

To answer your question you put back in the same amount that came out when you evacuated the system. If none came out I usually add 1 to 2 oz depending on the size of the system. To address another part of your question why would you dispose of the old refrigerant? Most recovery machines also recycle the old refrigerant, by that I mean that they remove any ...


2

Think I might be stupid. Should have checked around more. Checked around online, as I had before, but this time found a yahoo answer I had not seen before. "'98-'03 ML320 which would make it a gasoline engine and it uses 8 L or 8.5 quarts. ". Looks like I far underestimated how much oil this beast uses. Guess I'll oil it up some more and hope for the best.


2

I pulled this from the talk side of Wikipedia page on electric fuel pumps, which I think explains it pretty well: I am an auto mechanic who also has a chemistry background. The reason electric, tank- mounted fuel pumps do not cause explosions is that the concentration of fuel vapors is too high to allow an explosive mixture. The volatile (which in this ...



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