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7

Tyre depth gauges look something like this (amazon link) - you can buy them in any automotive store. You press the green bit against the tyre and push the middle bit into the tread groove. The slidy bit at the top will then tell you the depth. Buy one and have a play, it's easier to see than to explain! You should be able to see the 'wear bars' - raised ...


7

The below are very easy checks you can do while buying a used car.(from anywhere for that matter of fact) Engine This is the most complicated/expensive part to maintain/replace. Head Gasket check: Open the oil filler cap or the dip stick for any milky white substance , like mayoneese ,if it is present then stay away , it means the head gasket is ...


4

Unfortunately, oil consumption in these engines can be quite large. GM has put out service bulletins which says that engine use up to 1 quart per 2000 miles is perfectly normal. I found some information on the bulletin: (NOTE: - I was unable to find the actual bulletin, but the following is an excerpt from it, which was copied into the forum link I provided ...


3

Judging by your other questions on the site your motorcycle is a '12 Yamaha R6. If so, you have an oil filter, which should pick up the metal flakes and any other debris. A new oil filter and fresh oil should be sufficient to clean out the unwanted debris. It is unlikely that the metal flakes are responsible for a performance degradation if the oil filter ...


2

Rings generally wear at the same rate meaning that when it's time to replace one you should be replacing them all as they're not seating with the cylinder properly any more. Burning oil does not always imply a loss of compression. Cars with good rings will burn oil due to bad valve guides or bad valve guide seals. A compression test should help you ...


2

What I see missing here is the fact that the PCV system does far more than just retain EPA compliance, the blow-by contains dozens of damaging compounds that must be removed as soon as they enter the crankcase by fresh air entering one bank, and the foul nasty vapors evacuated or "sucked" out the opposite bank while still in a gaseous state. If you do NOT ...


2

If the car is still burning oil as you describe, I can think of several things which might be wrong: When replacing the rings, you clocked the rings wrong. If all of the ring gaps line up, you'll pump oil into the cylinder (gives a straight shot for oil to pass). You'll also lose compression. If you didn't hone the cylinders correctly or didn't at least ...


1

You could use oil flushing agent which is available from most motor factors or, if you cant get any, add a small amount of diesel to the old oil and allow the vehicle to idle for a short period prior to removing the old oil. Also, a large magnet on the sump pan which you then draw to the drain hole should drag out any rogue metal trapped in the system. I'm ...


1

It also depends on if your car is set for long life service intervals or not. I've got the Bora 1.9 TDI PD130 (2004 model year) and it seems to need oil changes every 20k miles. Checking the oil level regularly is very important as low oil on these engines will cause untold damage. Also, if you change the oil more frequently than required then this is ...


1

I agree with Gary's assessment about the Manifold gaskets. The Olds 3800 is a "workhorse" engine as is the 3.3, only you don't see much of the 3.3's on the shelf or in the shop. As this is an older piece of iron it stands to reason that the gaskets may need replacing. If you have a tuned ear you can hear a leak or at least hear the approximate location of ...


1

Usually when I see multiple things going dead and the gauges stop working like you stated, the first thing I think of is some sort of grounding issue. Hard to diagnose ... even harder to track down.



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