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21

If it is burning it's oil, the oil is getting somewhere it shouldn't do - and changing the plugs and coil will make no difference to that! As the oil smoke is coming out of the exhaust, that suggests to me that the oil is getting into the cylinders - the most likely causes for this are a blown headgasket, failed valve stem seals, or failed piston rings. A ...


13

It definitely could have worked it's way (the drain bolt) over the three month period from the previous change. The cause would be an improperly torqued oil drain bolt. It wouldn't be the first time. Getting together evidence that it IS their fault is impossible. So, to clearly answer this question What could cause the oil plug to just come out, if ...


11

I had exactly the same experience with a chain oil change shop. It's one of the reasons I stopped using any outside mechanic for anything short of things I can't handle due to specialized tools or time required. In my case it was also thousands of miles before the problem showed up. I did have droplets of oil on the driveway, but I can easily imagine ...


8

Pull the spark plugs and inspect them. Oil-fouled spark plugs will look wet and black.


7

You can test your rings and head gasket with a leak down tester Checking your spark plugs as shown in @Zaid's post is the first order of business. You will see it on the plugs. Now, if you do see an oil fouled plug, you will need to identify the source of the oil. Possible Sources of Oil Intake valve guide seal Rings Head gasket PCV valve Any of ...


5

You can perform a Leak Down Test to pinpoint what's going wrong. You'll obviously need a leakdown tester kit, you'll need an air compressor, and some hand tools. Pull out spark plugs and either by hand or using a bar, rotate the engine so that the first cylinder you're testing is at top dead centre. You can put a screwdriver in the hole and watch it move ...


5

Lots of elbow grease. Really, if you don't want to use chemicals, you are stuck with using cleaning utensils like putty knife, toothbrush, rags, and whatnot. Personally, there really isn't a problem with running the engine with a can of SeaFoam (or the like) in it for a period of time (under 100 miles), then dumping it out with the oil. Most of the sludge ...


5

You know there's low oil, and then there's low oil. I gotta tell you a story, its how I got started in automotive stuff. So I was living in Germany as an American G.I. I got interested in cars as a hobby. A friend of mine had crashed his car into a curb at high speed, and the insurance company called it a total loss. He wanted $300 for it. I wanted ...


5

If it is the oil pan bolt holes that are stripped out, using a Heli-Coil thread insert is the professional permanent solution. Heli-Coil is the inventor of this repair method, but there are other brands now available that do the same thing, they are sold in most Auto parts stores here in the US. Using Epoxy to do this type of repair is similar to using ...


5

Since it's a 1.2 I'm betting it's petrol, so you don't have some of the issues that diesels suffer from. White smoke is often water. Grey/black smoke will be oil. Either way, something is getting into the combustion chambers which really shouldn't be there. My money is on the head gasket, because that can fail in a fairly on/off kind of way, but as other ...


4

It's fine to run Synthetic Oil with crushed Dinosaurs, which is exactly what 'part-synthetic' oils are - but because the chemistry of the two oils you have is unknown, I wouldn't do it for too long (the TBN - Total Base Number - of the mixture may change in unexpected ways). By running the 'wrong' oil, you're better off than running it with no (or low) oil! ...


4

If it has an engine oil cooler, that is most likely the problem, a faulty oil cooler, some are made into the radiator, others have heater hoses running to a remote oil cooler, and a few I have seen are where the oil filter screws on, the oil cooler has a leak into the coolant side. The reason no coolant is in the oil is because it is a high pressure leak, ...


4

50 to 100ml should be OK That small of an amount won't hurt anything in overall scheme of things. Be careful not to put too much in though because you can do engine damage if you put in a large extra quantity. You will want to ensure you do not overfill your bike beyond the high oil mark in your oil window on the side of your clutch cover. This article ...


3

I wouldn't spend any more money replacing oil until you have got the engine running again. Take the plugs out and check if they are covered in oil. Make a note of which plug came out of which cylinder so you know which cylinder had the oily plug if there is one. With all the plugs out, turn the engine over with the starter to blow any oil out of the ...


3

I didn't see in your question where you refilled the ATF for the transmission. It's possible at least part of the grumbling you heard was the transmission complaining about being about 1/3 to 1/2 low on fluid. Be sure the use the right fluid as shown in your owners or repair manual for the car. Fill it back to the cold mark on the stick. I think an '05 Chevy ...


3

I really think it depends on how they are using the glue. If they are using it to fill in a void, then it might work. You WOULD NOT however, want to use it to seal the leak directly. For instance, you don't want to glue or bond the two metal parts together in lieu of a gasket or gasket material. They (or you) need to figure out where the gasket is leaking ...


2

I had an oil squirter come loose inside my engine and destroy a piston about 10 years after a rebuild. Sometimes stuff just comes loose and it's no one's fault. My feeling is that it it was probably an improperly torqued plug, but it wasn't so far out of spec that it would count as negligence in the minds of most judges or juries. It held in there for 3 ...


2

I don't have enough reputation to comment, so I will post here. If the low oil pressure light, or similar indicator, did not light up, or was not noticed, it could be that the oil pan plug or bolt fell out during a longer trip and prior to the 3000 miles when the condition was noticed. If the plug did not leak (much) before falling out, the small amount of ...


2

My sister has a 2000 Cadillac DeVille And it's doing the same thing. A car has two lines that that the radiator cools the motor oil and the transmission fluid her car has oil in the radiator but not in the engine the line for oil has a Crack in it and that's what's causing the oil to get in the radiator fluid. So the line has to be replaced.


2

You want to make sure the oil reaches its operating temperature (80°C+) from time to time. The coolant temp. indicator is not too helpful with that. You may have to do 15km or more of normal driving for the oil to be at 80°, probably more when hyper-miling due to less heat produced/wasted in the engine. Water (from combustion/condensation) and unburned ...


1

As long as the coolant does not boil (and your cooling system is in good shape) it is safe to drive. If you have a 50-50 mix of Anti Freeze and water and a 15lb radiator cap it will boil at 265 degrees F. I doubt you will ever see this max temp. Mobile One synthetic Motor Oil says it protects up to 500 F, so it would vary depending on brand and type of ...


1

If the cooling system is working properly, the coolant temperature shouldn't be any higher than normal. Depending on whether the engine has an oil cooler, and what type it is, the oil temperature may rise. The safe limit for this is subjective, depending mainly on oil type, but as a ballpark figure a synth oil shouldn't have a problem going as high as 140c. ...


1

We use a pressure washer for this job. We remove the oil pan and valve covers. We then pressure wash from every angle we can reach. It makes a big mess, cover up everything you do not want to clean up later. We then reinstall the oil pan an valve covers, fill with oil, add a new oil filter. Then the engine is started and run at idle only for about 20 ...



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