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6

Is there any way I can determine if oil foaming happened or is happening e.g. bubbles on dipstick? Yes, small bubbles on the dipstick is a good indication of foaming, there should not be any in normal operation. They will not stay long after engine shut down. Quality oil will have an anti-foaming additive that will cause them to dissipate. In extreme cases ...


5

The oil pan is not a normal wear item, however being so low to the ground it is possible to damage it. As the oil pan is not removed for regular inspection, any decision made by the mechanic should be visible to photograph without tools or disassembly, either as physical damage or oil leaking. Have the mechanic put the vehicle on the lift and show to you ...


4

I would check for: cracks, but don't take casting marks for cracks (a picture of your pan would be helpful to tell) scratches stripped plug thread (but then it would already be leaking since you wouldn't be able to tight the plug back ;-)) any deformation especially on the gasket level


4

An oil leak where you see a drip form, but it doesn't drip is not an immediate problem. If this is something you don't want to fix right away, there shouldn't be a huge issue. There are two concerns: Keep a close eye on the oil and ensure it stays topped off. You'll want to check it a little more often than you would under normal circumstances so as to ...


4

Judging by your other questions on the site your motorcycle is a '12 Yamaha R6. If so, you have an oil filter, which should pick up the metal flakes and any other debris. A new oil filter and fresh oil should be sufficient to clean out the unwanted debris. It is unlikely that the metal flakes are responsible for a performance degradation if the oil filter ...


4

I finally dit it. I tried the penetrating fluid but with no avail. I figured I needed more torque, but did not want to damage another ratchet. So I went ahead and welded the broken rachet head and also welded a 2 foot long tube to the end of the old ratchet. With this makeshift breaker bar I managed to apply enough torque to loosen the bold.


3

As @ Paulster2 has stated you need to determine where the sensor is leaking. I would focus my concerns on the oil pressure sensor very soon. The oil sending unit is under pressure, the oil pan is merely a container for the oil.The oil pump has the capacity to empty all the oil out of the engine in less than a minute at high rpm. If the oil sending unit were ...


3

To have a level difference equivalent to one-third of the difference between min and max is quite large. This tells me that the dipstick is not fully seated in the dipstick channel in one of the orientations. I would consider the orientation in which the dipstick rests lower in the channel (resulting in a higher level reading) to be the correct one to use.


2

Two things: Ensure you are trying to turn it the right way. (ie: righty tighty [clockwise] lefty loosey [counter-clockwise]) Seeing as how the vehicle is upside down to you (since you are underneath), it's easy to get turned around and applying torque in the wrong direction. Put your combination wrench back on the nut and hit the open end with a hammer (in ...


2

I assume you have tried to spray loads of penetrating fluid on it? Otherwise, from the sound of it, I wouldn't count on getting the bolt out without heat so at this point it would be best to drop the whole oilpan so you can work on it separately. It will be messy and sucks to do but like you said it shouldn't be done with oil in there.


2

Here's an article on ToyoNation explaining what you need to do: Link Generally, removing the bolts you don't need a sequence. When torquing them back up, you want to do them up in a diagonal star pattern, as you would with your wheel lugs etc. This guide recommends using a toyota sealant, which is probably about right. Any RTV sealant that's at the right ...


2

The sumps on most if not all Volkswagen watercooled engines can be changed with the engine still in the car including the Bora V6.


1

Run the car for about 5-10 minutes to get it warmed up, then drain what you are going to if you are dumping it out the bottom. Getting it warmed up a little bit will allow the oil to drop out pretty quick. Wear gloves (nitrile) if available. The oil will flow fast, so pay attention to what you're doing or you'll dump out too much. If you dump your oil into a ...


1

An impact wrench - even an electric - can do wonderful things. I just had a 10mm with a torx head that I struggled with all afternoon. It just wouldn't come, and got to where the torx teeth were pretty close to stripped out. My brother brought over his impact, and it came off in 10 secs. I have seen the light.


1

You could use oil flushing agent which is available from most motor factors or, if you cant get any, add a small amount of diesel to the old oil and allow the vehicle to idle for a short period prior to removing the old oil. Also, a large magnet on the sump pan which you then draw to the drain hole should drag out any rogue metal trapped in the system. I'm ...


1

Keep in mind that oil pan gaskets are 20 bucks stuff and they're easy to change at home by yourself.. It'll take you 30 minutes at most.. Jack up the car and do it yourself and save $$$



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