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8

For OCD you can place a flat pan below the oil drain and lower the front wheels to get the remaining oil out, then jack it up again. Though I would not worry about couple of ounces in your place. Even if your car is level old oil will still remain in the engine (other cavities, thin film, etc.). For example in my engine that takes 4L of fresh oil, 2 ounces ...


6

Personally I'm not seeing an issue with replacing the washer. This is a $.05 part. For my '08 Hyundai Azera, it comes with the filter I get from my Hyundai dealer. Does it really need replaced? Probably not, but the one time when it does need changed and you don't do it may be the difference between a $.05 part and a $2500 overhaul/engine replacement. To me ...


5

The oil pan is not a normal wear item, however being so low to the ground it is possible to damage it. As the oil pan is not removed for regular inspection, any decision made by the mechanic should be visible to photograph without tools or disassembly, either as physical damage or oil leaking. Have the mechanic put the vehicle on the lift and show to you ...


4

Assuming you're buying the OEM filter from a Subaru dealer, they should be giving you a new washer with each one. It's an aluminum washer that's sort of folded over on itself so that it crushes. I just did an oil change, so here's a picture of the washers (used on the left, new on the right): Notice that the left one is appreciably flattened. My ...


4

I've been changing my own oil since 1975 or so, Daniel, more often than not, several cars at a time (it's been a long long time since I've only had one vehicle). I've never changed a drain plug gasket - I've never seen one that leaked significantly enough to warrant replacement. Do wipe around the drain hole, and wipe the existing gasket, before putting the ...


4

I would check for: cracks, but don't take casting marks for cracks (a picture of your pan would be helpful to tell) scratches stripped plug thread (but then it would already be leaking since you wouldn't be able to tight the plug back ;-)) any deformation especially on the gasket level


4

An oil leak where you see a drip form, but it doesn't drip is not an immediate problem. If this is something you don't want to fix right away, there shouldn't be a huge issue. There are two concerns: Keep a close eye on the oil and ensure it stays topped off. You'll want to check it a little more often than you would under normal circumstances so as to ...


4

I finally dit it. I tried the penetrating fluid but with no avail. I figured I needed more torque, but did not want to damage another ratchet. So I went ahead and welded the broken rachet head and also welded a 2 foot long tube to the end of the old ratchet. With this makeshift breaker bar I managed to apply enough torque to loosen the bold.


3

Judging by your other questions on the site your motorcycle is a '12 Yamaha R6. If so, you have an oil filter, which should pick up the metal flakes and any other debris. A new oil filter and fresh oil should be sufficient to clean out the unwanted debris. It is unlikely that the metal flakes are responsible for a performance degradation if the oil filter ...


3

This is a pretty common problem. Buy an oversized drain plug tap kit and retap your drain plug threads with the tap. The kit will also usually come with a replacement drain plug that fits the new larger tapped threads.


3

As @ Paulster2 has stated you need to determine where the sensor is leaking. I would focus my concerns on the oil pressure sensor very soon. The oil sending unit is under pressure, the oil pan is merely a container for the oil.The oil pump has the capacity to empty all the oil out of the engine in less than a minute at high rpm. If the oil sending unit were ...


3

If there was no oil leak before the oil change, then there is a possibility of wrong repair done at the workshop. Generally, for changing oil, the oil pan need not be touched at all, except for the oil drain plug. If the vehicle underbody is checked on a two post lift, then the leaking area could be spotted. Taking the vehicle to another mechanic is a good ...


3

Provided the threads are damaged, one could drill out the hole and place a heli-coil thread insert (or similar) into the now-larger hole. Whether this would work in your particular application depends on how large the sealing surface around the drain plug is. One company markets a threaded bushing to repair oil pan drain plugs that performs a similar ...


3

Was the factory solution not using a gasket? A gasket is usually better than the Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealing method since RTV is really messy and hard to clean off during maintenance and is harder to apply which may lead to failure as you have seen. There should be no need to warranty the gasket. If it becomes an issue again it should still ...


3

UPDATE & ANSWER After some research, I discovered that any future engine work will not be guaranteed when an over sized plug is installed - compared to having the factory supplied plug correctly installed. (Some dealerships won't even service vehicle engines with over sized plugs.) In addition, it is much easier for these threads to fail between oil ...


3

I would be satisfied with the repair. I would push for some free service, maybe a couple of free oil changes. Demand a refund for the service you paid for when the damage was discovered I would also demand a letter accepting blame and a promise to replace the oil pan for free if you find the repair unacceptable at a later date due to stripped threads or ...


2

A web search for universal oil drain plugs yielded several results. There are several types. One type is shaped like a mushroom with a wing nut on the top. Insert the stem in the drain hole and tighten the wing nut which expands the stem and seals the hole. Another type has a toggle bolt that is inserted in the drain and an attached rubber cap that covers ...


2

You can get more oil out of the bottom if you take pan off once it's empty. The difficulty of doing this will vary by car, of course. Just be careful if the oil is hot. And you will probably need a new gasket for when you put it back on.


2

Use a pump to remove the oil, and skip the ramps -- unless needed for the filter. I can not imagine it makes any difference-- some oil is left no matter how well you drain. Use better oil or change more often are other answers. The oil gets dirty immediately anyway so I wouldn't want to do anything that could be unsafe like raising all 4 wheels -- just buy ...


2

Do you have a workshop manual for the car? The torque figures should be listed in there. In the UK Haynes manuals they are at the beginning of the relevant chapter. I'm not aware of a specific order for oil sump bolts, but if there is one it should be listed in the approprate section of said manual. Normally it is only head bolts that need to be tightened ...


2

Replacing the washer depends on what the washer material is made out of. Most OEM parts are rubber based, so are both cheap and designed to be one use only. There are also crush washers, which need to be replaced after every use. There are a number of aftermarket (usually magnetic) sump plugs and washers - a large number of these have hard, flat, washers ...


2

Servicing cars almost every day I would recommend replacing at least the sump plug washer every time you change the oil. I actually replace the sump plug as well where possible so the next person has a fresh head on the bolt to take off. Certain sump plugs have allen key heads which can become problematic over time. The local company I get my parts ...


2

It very well could be the oil pan gasket, but this could be caused from a leaky anything on the engine. Look for where the highest point of where you see the gunk and start looking from that level. You should also be seeing some amount of gunk on the engine as well. If you really want to find it, do a thorough cleaning of the entire engine bay, then start ...


2

Two things: Ensure you are trying to turn it the right way. (ie: righty tighty [clockwise] lefty loosey [counter-clockwise]) Seeing as how the vehicle is upside down to you (since you are underneath), it's easy to get turned around and applying torque in the wrong direction. Put your combination wrench back on the nut and hit the open end with a hammer (in ...


2

I assume you have tried to spray loads of penetrating fluid on it? Otherwise, from the sound of it, I wouldn't count on getting the bolt out without heat so at this point it would be best to drop the whole oilpan so you can work on it separately. It will be messy and sucks to do but like you said it shouldn't be done with oil in there.


2

I agree with @knocksAndMisfires - it sounds strange that the oil pan gasket would have to be touched for a routine oil change. If the oil pan/lower sump was removed then this may necessitate a gasket change since they tend to be a single-use item, but this should not be required for a routine oil change. One other thing worth mentioning: $200 for an oil ...


1

You could use oil flushing agent which is available from most motor factors or, if you cant get any, add a small amount of diesel to the old oil and allow the vehicle to idle for a short period prior to removing the old oil. Also, a large magnet on the sump pan which you then draw to the drain hole should drag out any rogue metal trapped in the system. I'm ...


1

The oil pan is not a regular wear item, though it might need to be replaced if it's rusted, cracked and/or leaking. Welding an oil pan is difficult, time consuming and not worth it.


1

Odds are they did a shady job and are now trying to rip you off. No reason why it should be like that unless if they did that by accident or (worse) intentionally. If you can, take a look underneath and see where its leaking from. Likely to be from one of 3 places: 1. The drain plug. Maybe it just needs to be tightened. Or maybe the drain plug has its own ...


1

So... I pretty much took in all the advice you guys gave me (and from elsewhere too) and went ahead with the procedure with the oil pan still on the car. One big difference though: Instead of using a tap, I used my oversize plug... I was stubborn and did not want to buy the tap nor take the pan off the car. Here's how I did it: Jack the car up; stands. ...



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