New answers tagged oil-change
Heat actually makes bolts easier to remove. That's why you find mechanics often heat stuck bolts with butane torch. I don't know why, but it is routinely done.
Had the same problem on my 95 k1500 with 5.7. What helped me was using a long armed ratchet and spraying the plug and surrounding area with wd40. Took a few tries but eventually you'll get it.
Here is a maintenance manual for another JLO 2-cyl 2-stroke engine. While it isn't exactly the same, I would bet the maintenance would be the same between the models. As an aside, since the motor is air cooled, ensure the fans and shrouding are in place on motor before you try to start it. Doing some searching, your engine (and variants) were used ...
Judging by your other questions on the site your motorcycle is a '12 Yamaha R6. If so, you have an oil filter, which should pick up the metal flakes and any other debris. A new oil filter and fresh oil should be sufficient to clean out the unwanted debris. It is unlikely that the metal flakes are responsible for a performance degradation if the oil filter ...
You could use oil flushing agent which is available from most motor factors or, if you cant get any, add a small amount of diesel to the old oil and allow the vehicle to idle for a short period prior to removing the old oil. Also, a large magnet on the sump pan which you then draw to the drain hole should drag out any rogue metal trapped in the system. I'm ...
I'm not sure this is a simple as # number fluid changes to get to x dilution factor. If so M1V1 = M2V2 is what you would be looking for which looks to be around 140L worth of oil changes. It's my understanding that this transmission is expecting an actual flush procedure where either the transmission pump is forcing the old fluid out or there's a ...
For anyone else reading this, an "engine flush" can be done by draining the old oil, filling up with new oil, going for a quick 100 mile drive, then draining and refilling again. It's not quite as thorough as a chemical flush, but it doesn't destroy the motor either.
It sounds to me as though they didn't put (enough) oil back in after the engine flush. First of all, it didn't need an engine flush. Mobil1 and other synthetics are renowned for not leaving deposits in the engine. I would bet your engine would have been sparkling clean on the inside. They sold you something you didn't need. (I'm betting something along the ...
More than likely what the problem is, your float in the fuel bowl is shot. When the float is shot (ie: doesn't float correctly in the fuel), too much fuel is let into the carburetor and causes the exact issues you are talking about. You may be able to get a new float and needle valve (very likely), but you may just be better off buying a new carburetor. ...
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