Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

5

I doubt you're going to be able to have someone put a number on this. I'm betting you also know that just because no error was thrown, it doesn't mean that the sensor isn't impacting performance. Lifehacker notes that replacing them could improve mileage "up to 15%." As @BobCross mentioned, "most people wouldn't consider it worth their time to do the ...


5

Pending code? The user manual for your device says it should say "PD" for pending codes, so maybe not. "P0130 P" isn't a valid DTC for your vehicle so pending code is really all that makes sense. More specific to your model P0130 is front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean) Possible causes: Open wire to O2 Sensor Short to ground in O2 ...


5

It was indeed the catalytic converter (the EX does not have a pre-cat). After replacing it, the downstream sensor graph spends most of its time above 0.5 V, as it should if the converter is working. Update: I started getting this error code again, a little over a year after replacing the cat. I also finally found a guide on how to read these graphs, from ...


4

The ECU may have "tuned" itself to the gap and behavior of the old plugs. When you had the plugs replaced, if the shop did not disconnect the battery (and even if they did, not sure about your Ford) the ECU would still have the long term fuel trims that matched your old plugs in effect. So this may result in a bit less or more fuel being injected and ...


4

Buy the correct O2 sensor, hacking up the OEM harness to put a different O2 sensor on the car is a bad idea.


4

If you are going to replace the sensor and have already purchased the replacement, cut the wires off of the old sensor and put a 1/2" drive deep well socket onto it (don't use the split socket for the O2 sensor to take it off, but you will use it to put it back on). Use a breaker bar to break it free, then use a ratchet the rest of the way. If you do not ...


4

As @LynnCrumbling stated, this would be hard to put a number on, mainly because it depends on too many factors. This is what I can tell you. When O2 sensors get old, they don't necessarily go bad, what they do is get lazy. When a good O2 sensor is doing its thing, if you were to look at the readings from it, the numbers go all over the place, from top of the ...


4

With the check engine light on, the car is going to be running a fixed set of parameters from the Engine Control Module. For instance Fuel Pressure will be held at max pressure and timing and spark adjustments (if done electronically) will not retard or advance. One of the reasons this happens is because the Engine Control Module is not recieving all of ...


3

From time to time you do come across a rusted in sensor. Your vehicle being a 2001, and O2 sensors lasting some time, yours is rusted in. If sheer force does not work you may need to use an oxy-acetalyne torch on the sensor to heat to it red-hot to break the rusting and undo it with a good single-hex deep socket. I have had one or two sensors break up and ...


3

I doubt your sensor requires soldering. I would recommend always going with OEM parts, as they ensure the values the sensor sends are accurate. Next, verify which sensor it is as some cars have 4 and are divided into banks (sides). The code should say which side you are looking at. The sensor itself might need a special socket, but that is not necessarily ...


3

A quick way to check your O2 sensor, is to record all the codes (On paper, or whatever) and swap the sensors. If the code goes to bank 2, than you know you need a sensor. These are sometimes hard to find, due to the many things that can trigger an O2 fault. This is just a quick way to check the sensors, just be sure to reset the codes after recording them.


3

Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the sensor downstream of the catalytic converter. Bank 1 Sensor 1 would be upstream of the catalytic converter. With a 4 cylinder, everything should be Bank 1 (No Bank 2). So, Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the one under the car. The one on/at the exhaust manifold should be Bank 1 Sensor 1. You might eyeball the wiring and / or ...


3

Replacing the broken fan switch seems to have made the CEL go away. My best guess is that the ECU starts monitoring the O2 sensor output as soon as this sensor reads that the engine is hot, and gets upset when the O2 sensor is actually still cold. Edit: Nope, the CEL is back, and gas mileage has been really bad (around 18-19mpg on a car that usually gets ...


3

Disconnect your battery to reset your ECU. It won't hurt, and is probably the cheapest and easiest thing you can try. 30 minutes is usually enough. There are other theories as to why your mileage went down, but I think you're on the right track thinking the ECU hasn't learned to use the new data correctly. I am thinking that because your new 02 sensor is ...


2

From everything I see in this paper, it seems that it may be related to a vacuum leak. tl;dr - Check your vacuum lines and make sure none of them are cracked. Here are some more ideas from here: P2197 Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean Detailed Description A heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) indicating lean at the end of a test is ...


2

I just had these exact symptoms with a 2002 Vauxhall Astra. As well as the Crankshaft Sensor error (and the garage confirmed it had previously thrown out an O2 sensor error). Mine was the EGR valve, with fuels that use a lot of additives (here in the UK that's 'supermarket fuel') the valve quickly becomes caked in carbon. The EGR (exhaust gas ...


2

Checking a list of TSBs for this set of codes, this looks like a promising candidate: 01-028/04 MAZDA SPECIAL PROGRAM (MSP05) - 2004 MAZDA3 - O2 SENSOR DTC ERROR, P2195 / P2196 From what you describe, a problematic O2 sensor could easily lead to the idling, sputtering and smells that you describe. If the sensor is stuck reading full lean, it's highly ...


2

Short answer, yes - a faulty O2 can make the Check Engine Light / MIL to go on. Do you know what the code is?


1

Which sensor does the code say is bad? You should have 2 oxygen sensors, one before the catalytic convertor and one after. Be sure to check everywhere from the exhaust manifold to the muffler. I don't specifically where the o2 sensor are in your model, but check the cat itself as well.


1

In most cars, they are exactly the same between banks 1 & 2. In fact in a lot of cars, you could use the down stream sensors as the upstream sensors (this all assumes OBD2). So, yes, order exact for both sides. Secondly, the reason your car runs better when you pull the MAF is the same reason it runs the way it does in open loop. When you pull the MAF, ...


1

Looking at the description of the California O2 sensor for your car, the only thing different on it (besides the internals) is the electrical plug. The wrench which you tighten it down with is 7/8", which means the sensor bung should be the same size as well. I don't think there is any real external difference between the California and non-California ...


1

check the part number on the new sensor. The shorter connector pigtail and new 02 sensor circuit codes appearing after the repair sound strange to me. Couldn't hurt to double check at least


1

The 50 g/s max flow reading that you are getting is far lower than what merely altitude can explain. The chart above shows that at about 5,200 ft above sea level, the density of air is 83% of what it is at sea level (0.062 lb/cu.ft vs. .075 lb/cu.ft). So to account for the altitude, you should multiply your expected mass flow by 0.83. According to the ...


1

The fault code P0171 descriptor is Bank 1 running weak. The fault code P0174 descriptor is Bank 2 running weak. This means that your engine has too much air or not enough fuel for proper ignition. This can be a faulty MAF sensor as it is common to both banks. It can also mean that you have an air leak between the MAF sensor and the throttle body, a faulty ...


1

the oxygen sensor needed replacing You may have identified the root of all of your issues. Depending on exactly what is happening with your faulty O2 sensor, it could affect any aspect of the intake-combustion-exhaust cycle. I would expect exactly the sort of symptoms that you cite; specifically, rough idle and reduced performance are to be expected.


1

I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, and I was getting OBDII error codes: P2626 Hyundai - HO2S Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open Bank 1 Sensor 1 .. and later, I also got P2196 Hyundai - HO2S Signal Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1 My car was sputtering, somewhat intermittently. It would intermittently lose power rather suddenly while accelerating. The egine was also ...


1

I got the same code with 2000 tundra. I found you need to compare HO₂S Sensor 2 to engine load. If engine load is low enough, the sensor voltage should be 0 for a period of time as well. When decelerating, engine load is low, rpm is low and throttle position probably is close. Not a technician, just leaning.


1

I have a 1st Generation (1995-1999) Toyota Avalon with a P1135 error also. I change the Denso Air Fuel Sensor P/N: 234-9007 and it solve the problem and the check engine light went away. I change it from the top instead of going under the car it was really easy. Hope this help like other have help me.


1

P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is correct. I had the same code since 2010 until 2013. The day I changed O2 sensor 1 upstream for my 2001 Toyota Camry (4 cylinder, 2.2L) the code was cleaned, and then the engine light went away.


1

Both codes look to be related. P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Source: http://www.engine-light-help.com Replacing the sensor may fix the issue, but as pointed out in the answer to your previous question: it is not always the sensor that goes bad. Sensors ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible